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Old 10-10-2012, 08:51 PM   #101
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The bush squish for the drop links is best set with the weight of the car on the wheels.
Ok....thanks.

So, I'll put them on pretty much hand tight. I'll then get the wheels back on, probably put a stand under the tire, lower it down to get the weight on it, and then tighten them good and tight.

Look forward to the install. Just looking at the FE3 vs FE4 setup it looks to be a no brainer upgrade.
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Old 10-10-2012, 08:53 PM   #102
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Ok....thanks.

So, I'll put them on pretty much hand tight. I'll then get the wheels back on, probably put a stand under the tire, lower it down to get the weight on it, and then tighten them good and tight.

Look forward to the install. Just looking at the FE3 vs FE4 setup it looks to be a no brainer upgrade.
Both wheels need load. If you have 10mm of thread out of the nut in the air, you'll be almost dead nuts on.
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Old 10-13-2012, 12:19 PM   #103
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If I wanted to install the rear monotube dampers from the 1LE would it require me to use the FE4 Rear Lower Control Arms? Or could I get by using the FE3 ones?
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Old 10-13-2012, 12:20 PM   #104
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If I wanted to install the rear monotube dampers from the 1LE would it require me to use the FE4 Rear Lower Control Arms? Or could I get by using the FE3 ones?
The arms are good to go, but what would you use for front struts?
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Old 10-13-2012, 12:21 PM   #105
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The arms are good to go, but what would you use for front struts?
I would assume I would install the front 1LE struts as well, it seems like it would be not that difficult.
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Old 10-13-2012, 12:30 PM   #106
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I would assume I would install the front 1LE struts as well, it seems like it would be not that difficult.
That will work.
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Old 10-13-2012, 12:48 PM   #107
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That will work.
Thanks for the info
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Old 11-09-2012, 11:05 AM   #108
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For an economy upgrade to a 2012 1LT would the 1LE or ZL1 sways make a decent upgrade? I keep reading that the 1LE suspension parts are not that substantial of an upgrade but if that is the case then what in the world makes the 1LE handle so well? Just trying to weigh out all of my options and not spend anymore than i have to. I hate to be a penny pincher but I am self employed and this economy is killing me.
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Old 11-09-2012, 11:47 AM   #109
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For an economy upgrade to a 2012 1LT would the 1LE or ZL1 sways make a decent upgrade? I keep reading that the 1LE suspension parts are not that substantial of an upgrade but if that is the case then what in the world makes the 1LE handle so well? Just trying to weigh out all of my options and not spend anymore than i have to. I hate to be a penny pincher but I am self employed and this economy is killing me.
Our ZL1 front and rear sway bars were a huge upgrade over our stock v6 bars but we autocross so the diffrence was easy to see from one sunday to the other and for 300 for the bars that hard to beat with aftermarket
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Old 11-09-2012, 09:30 PM   #110
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Thats what i thought. The OE prices for the ZL1 bars is very reasonable and has to be a substantial upgrade over stock
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Old 11-24-2012, 12:08 PM   #111
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Thats what i thought. The OE prices for the ZL1 bars is very reasonable and has to be a substantial upgrade over stock
So I got my 1LE suspension and pedders goodies installed. I can say compared to FE3 its night and day. Its very firm but not harsh, I like it. I don't have my stage III radius rod inserts or rear cradle bushings installed yet, that had to be saved for another day. I expect the car to be very tight once those are installed.

Oh side note, Petes right. Both front and rear are monotubes.
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Old 12-09-2012, 08:55 PM   #112
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Does anyone know if the 1LE Subframe Bushings and the ZL1 Subframe Bushings are the same or different? If different, which are better?
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Old 12-09-2012, 09:16 PM   #113
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Does anyone know if the 1LE Subframe Bushings and the ZL1 Subframe Bushings are the same or different? If different, which are better?
They are the same. Before I would replace my sub-frame bushes with the ZL1 or 1LE I would use EP1201HDs.
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Old 01-06-2013, 09:37 PM   #114
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Updated with correct wheel hub parts numbers.
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Old 02-26-2013, 08:14 PM   #115
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Nice thread!!!
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Old 03-04-2013, 03:12 PM   #116
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nak3dsnake, where did you buy the 1LE parts from?
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Old 03-05-2013, 08:46 AM   #117
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nak3dsnake, where did you buy the 1LE parts from?
I ordered mine from gmpartsdirect.com, its where i used to get my parts from. I now use and recommend partstaxi.com. The parts aren't quite as cheap as they are from gmpartsdirect, but you don't get charged ridiculous amounts for shipping and still end up saving money.
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Old 03-06-2013, 08:09 PM   #118
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OK...is it possible to use FE3 front endlinks on the 1LE strut bar? Maybe some sort of adapter sleeve to make the bolt a 12mm? I'm thinking out loud here.
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Old 03-06-2013, 09:09 PM   #119
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OK...is it possible to use FE3 front endlinks on the 1LE strut bar? Maybe some sort of adapter sleeve to make the bolt a 12mm? I'm thinking out loud here.
The 27mm front 1LE bar is a very strong bar. The FE3 endlinks are not well suited to the 1LE bar. Are you trying to accommodate the 10mm hole in the FE3 strut?
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Old 03-06-2013, 09:37 PM   #120
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The 27mm front 1LE bar is a very strong bar. The FE3 endlinks are not well suited to the 1LE bar. Are you trying to accommodate the 10mm hole in the FE3 strut?
Not sure...I have a 2011 2LT and have acquired very low mileage 2010 FE3 SS shocks/springs/struts/FELs, 1LE front and rear sways, and 2013 LCAs and endlinks. It looks like the front endlinks fit the struts, but are too small for the swaybar. I think the 1LE uses 12mm bolts. The FE3 front endlinks I have are, I think, 10mm on each end. So I'm wondering if there is a way to use 10mm bolts in a 12mm hole without screwing something up? (even though I'm doing this suspension stuff out of order...lol)

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Old 03-06-2013, 10:29 PM   #121
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Not sure...I have a 2011 2LT and have acquired very low mileage 2010 FE3 SS shocks/springs/struts/FELs, 1LE front and rear sways, and 2013 LCAs and endlinks. It looks like the front endlinks fit the struts, but are too small for the swaybar. I think the 1LE uses 12mm bolts. The FE3 front endlinks I have are, I think, 10mm on each end. So I'm wondering if there is a way to use 10mm bolts in a 12mm hole without screwing something up? (even though I'm doing this suspension stuff out of order...lol)

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You could try a shim / spacer / sleeve if you could find something to fit. You could also order a 10mm on one end and 12mm on the other end set of endlinks from us.
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Old 03-07-2013, 07:12 AM   #122
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Is there room to drill the 10mm holes out to 12mm so you could either use 12mm bolts in both ends (same strength) or even 1LE endlinks directly?

Pete - any chance that the 1LE struts used heavier gauge steel for the endlink attachment tabs than the SS did?


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Old 03-07-2013, 01:29 PM   #123
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OK...Pete, your endlinks are nice! Unfortunately, 200+ bucks is kinda negating an economy suspension upgrade (they would be the most expensive part so far...lol). I found this: Harley Davidson Banjo Adapter

They are around 7 bucks a piece and I think would actually work for my application...might have to shave just a slight bit off. I'm not an auto-crosser and this is my DD. I just wanted "tighter" suspension over the FE2 system. Thoughts?
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Old 03-07-2013, 01:50 PM   #124
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Is there room to drill the 10mm holes out to 12mm so you could either use 12mm bolts in both ends (same strength) or even 1LE endlinks directly?

Pete - any chance that the 1LE struts used heavier gauge steel for the endlink attachment tabs than the SS did?


Norm

From what I've read, the 2013 FELs are actually beefier and looks like the same part# for all models from LT on up. Since I'm not auto-crossing, I'm fairly certain I won't jack up the endlinks. If I do, I'll just order the 2013 links and drill out the strut hole to 12mm.
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Old 03-07-2013, 01:54 PM   #125
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Is there room to drill the 10mm holes out to 12mm so you could either use 12mm bolts in both ends (same strength) or even 1LE endlinks directly?

Pete - any chance that the 1LE struts used heavier gauge steel for the endlink attachment tabs than the SS did?

Norm
Unfortunately no, both use the same strut body. At least mine did.

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From what I've read, the 2013 FELs are actually beefier and looks like the same part# for all models from LT on up. Since I'm not auto-crossing, I'm fairly certain I won't jack up the endlinks. If I do, I'll just order the 2013 links and drill out the strut hole to 12mm.
True, but there's still the chance yo may hit a bump or pothole and bend one though.
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