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Dragstrip and Launch Techniques Discussion 1/4 mile, 1/8 mile, launch discussions.

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Old 08-27-2012, 11:37 PM   #1
AngelSpeedFreak
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2 tenths for $1,000-$1,500?

Any suggestions from the guys that know these cars best?

I told myself I would not spend any more cash this year, but you know how that goes....

I am looking for something that will gain me a consistent 2 tenths. I have a couple ideas, but your suggestions from first hand experience would be greatly appreciated.

Current setup:
Stock block/ Stock Cam/ Heads/ etc
TVS2300 running 3.2 pulley on 7psi boost (Track is at 5253ft above sea level) - ribbed pulley and gator belt doesnt appear to have any slip, but I guess I could be wrong?
Doug Thorley 1 7/8 longtubes W/ cat delete
Noweeds diverters and Corsa Exhaust
Snow Meth kit
Linelock
17" Bogarts on rear W/ M&H drag radials (325's) - running 22" TSW's in the front.
Everything else is stock I believe.

Best time is 11.9@114mph
Consistent 12.1@113mph
consistent 1.7xx 60'
Car put down 608rwhp/ 597tq but these are corrected #'s for elevation. I'm sure actual is much lower.

Here are a couple of my thoughts:
1 - short throw shifter, trailing arms, sway bar
2 - Skinnies for the front (might be more than my budget?)
3 - overdrive for maggie to up the boost and trialing arms
4 - Gears? maybe the new LE1 gears? maybe get a short throw as well.

I am really leaning towards skinnies just because I love the look, but I have a feeling front rims/ tires wouldn't gain me .2?

Any and all suggestions would be great.
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Old 08-27-2012, 11:55 PM   #2
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best bang for the buck would be a smaller pulley and a second tune (may need a programer so you can switch back and forth on your tunes) at 7 pounds of boost you can go with a smaller pulley. if you can switch tunes (with a programer , you can also have a tune with 110 race fuel.) and you won't spend more than you want.
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Old 08-28-2012, 12:09 AM   #3
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Wow elevation sucks lol. Most stock ss's trap in the 110 range at lower altitude.
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Old 08-28-2012, 08:48 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by linehand7 View Post
best bang for the buck would be a smaller pulley and a second tune (may need a programer so you can switch back and forth on your tunes) at 7 pounds of boost you can go with a smaller pulley. if you can switch tunes (with a programer , you can also have a tune with 110 race fuel.) and you won't spend more than you want.
This is a definite option. One thing I will need to look at is my injector status as I may be close to max on that and my stock fuel pump. I wont be able to go a smaller pulley up front as it's already a 3.2 but I could buy an overdrive for out back then possibly go up a little in the front to gain another 2-3 PSI pretty safely.

I do have an SCT handheld that came with my maggie but I've never used it. My tunes were done via a shop who used HP Tuners. I could probably get them to save both tunes on my SCT though?

Thanks for the suggestion

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Originally Posted by Oxtar41 View Post
Wow elevation sucks lol. Most stock ss's trap in the 110 range at lower altitude.
You don't have to tell me about it. I hate coming on here and seeing how cars with longtubes are at my same numbers Stock SS' run about a 14.2 up here at around 95mph. DA is always between 7000-9000.
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Old 08-28-2012, 01:21 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by HRD_WRK View Post
Gotta ask

I assume the maggie isn't hooked up to a stock air box - you didn't specify- else >0.2 gain with CAI and scoop.


I assume you air up the fronts above cold psi 'unofficially' to run-lower roll resistance.
17" Bogarts and M&H shinnies up front (weight in at ~36 lbs ea set if I recall)-great weight loss. Good start for diet-see diet list-'lose the weight/lowerthe time' for easy temporary or permanent items.

Trail arm / cradle bushing

Torq conv - 0.4 estm generally by Tracy (user SC1250)


Tim
Thanks. Forgot to mention the Rotofab CAI

I really wish I knew if the skinnies would give me any actual gains? I realize the weight difference between the Skinnies and my 22's is probably about 45lbs each. I guess that could be close to a tenth right there?

no torq cov as I am M6... Thinking maybe a short throw might gain me a bit?
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Old 08-28-2012, 02:16 PM   #6
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Thanks for the suggestions. It's little stuff like removing the washer bottle that could lead to a small enough gain that I am looking for..
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Old 08-28-2012, 04:55 PM   #7
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Sux2bu has posted various wheel/tire combo weights a few times, I'd think that skinnies would drop off some weight and help overall. I think you'd see improvement also reducing rotating weight and the front skinnies would have less drag. These tanks are heavy, any weight reduction is a good idea.
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Old 08-28-2012, 05:17 PM   #8
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I would do gear and skinnies to stay in your budget. What gear and rpm are you crossing the line at now? Don't go too steep and force another shift. And what rpm are you leaving the line at? Drag shocks would help if its purely a race car.

You'd need cam/fuel pump/injectors/cog drive/tune to get more out of the motor.
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Old 08-28-2012, 05:32 PM   #9
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Do you have stock Maggie injectors and fuel pump? OD cog is definately the way to go. You have a good 60ft time so I would go after more hp.
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Old 08-28-2012, 05:47 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pro Stock John View Post
Sux2bu has posted various wheel/tire combo weights a few times, I'd think that skinnies would drop off some weight and help overall. I think you'd see improvement also reducing rotating weight and the front skinnies would have less drag. These tanks are heavy, any weight reduction is a good idea.
I'm sure skinnies would help, I just havent seen any actual numbers to see if that would gain me .2 or not. Hate to spend all my loot on them and have zero gain.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Synner View Post
I would do gear and skinnies to stay in your budget. What gear and rpm are you crossing the line at now? Don't go too steep and force another shift. And what rpm are you leaving the line at? Drag shocks would help if its purely a race car.

You'd need cam/fuel pump/injectors/cog drive/tune to get more out of the motor.
Crossing the line in 4th barely. I shift into 4th at almost the line, sometimes I hit rev limiter in 3rd as it is just that close.

I launch at 3800rpms.

Cam/Pump alone would be out of my price range that I want to spend I think.

Quote:
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Do you have stock Maggie injectors and fuel pump? OD cog is definately the way to go. You have a good 60ft time so I would go after more hp.
stock injectors and pump.Think the OD and running 9-10 psi would be possible with stock fuel?
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Old 08-28-2012, 05:55 PM   #11
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Then you definitely need gear. 3.91 would probably be just right when the 1LE crap is easier to get. I refuse to fall for the lingenfelter price gouging. And it would help make up for the poor DA a bit versus the motor work expense.
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Old 08-28-2012, 07:12 PM   #12
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I think a set of gears would definitely be a step in the right direction. Our gears are made by the OE manufacturer. They have a tried and proven track record and we have them in stock, ready to ship. PM me if you have any questions.


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Old 08-28-2012, 07:35 PM   #13
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Are you putting down 608rwhp/597rwtq on stock suspension? If so you could easily see .2-.5 with a few suspension upgrades alone. Shoot me a PM if you would like to discuss it.
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Old 08-28-2012, 07:41 PM   #14
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Are you putting down 608rwhp/597rwtq on stock suspension? If so you could easily see .2-.5 with a few suspension upgrades alone. Shoot me a PM if you would like to discuss it.
With an M6 I hope he's not on a stock suspension! But I'd like to know how I can get .2-.5 with a few parts. Share some ideas. Hook a brother up!!
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Old 08-28-2012, 08:00 PM   #15
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With an M6 I hope he's not on a stock suspension! But I'd like to know how I can get .2-.5 with a few parts. Share some ideas. Hook a brother up!!
I would hope not also but he listed his mods and then said:

Quote:
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Everything else is stock I believe.
Farther down he said he was considering rear trailing arms so it sounded to me like he was saying he was running stock suspension. We recently set up one of our locals with a suspension package that did exactly that. Prior to the upgrades his personal best was 10.99 and afterwards he hit the track and ran a 10.78. He said the track was in bad shape and thought he thought he would be flirting with 10.6 next time.
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Old 08-28-2012, 08:04 PM   #16
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I would hope not also but he listed his mods and then said:



Farther down he said he was considering rear trailing arms so it sounded to me like he was saying he was running stock suspension. We recently set up one of our locals with a suspension package that did exactly that. Prior to the upgrades his personal best was 10.99 and afterwards he hit the track and ran a 10.78. He said the track was in bad shape and thought he would flirting with 10.6 next time.
I'm hoping I can get similar results. I just did trailing arms, toe rods, cradle bushing inserts and the Farks no hop upper control arm bushings. I'm heading to the track on Sunday.
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Old 08-28-2012, 09:23 PM   #17
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100% stock suspension. Not even lowered...

I don't feel any wheel hop, but think that might be the thing to upgrade to get me that 2 tenths. Let me know what you suggest? I guess if I can get my 1.7xx down to a low 1.6 that would do it...
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Old 08-29-2012, 06:13 AM   #18
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Our cars are pretty close, same SC, same pulley, meth but I do have a blower CAM. I have always heard that for every 1000 feet change in DA, there is a .13 second change in quarter mile times. I run 10.9Xs @ 625 feet with 638RWHP and 601TQ, giving up 5,000 feet in altitude the difference of .65 would put my car around 11.55. I have 30 more HP and 4 more lbs. of torque. When I took my car to be tuned after going to the 3.2 pulley I made 7 psi, we discovered slip on the back pulley on the SC. The dyno graph did not show this since it was a smooth even loss across the entire pull. I got a rear cog drive kit and JRE Super tensioner, when I went back I made 9.5 psi. My car has always shown lower boost levels than most. My guess is you are already near your goal and have some belt slip.

My Current setup:
Stock block/Stock/Heads/ etc
CAM G5XB
TVS2300 running 3.2 pulley on 9.5 psi boost (Track is at 625ft above sea level) - NAPA belt, JRE super tensioner and SC rear cog drive, belt doesn't appear to have any slip
ARH 1 7/8 longtubes W/ cat delete
Magnaflow Exhaust
Alkey control Meth kit
Linelock
18" C6 Z06 rear W/ MT drag radials (295's) - running 20" Stock wheels in the front.
60 foot times low 1.7s
ET 10.9X
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Old 08-29-2012, 09:09 AM   #19
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Great Info Maxdmax...

Where did you buy your COG OD? I am having a hard time finding any place that sells them. I think I could get the COG drive, JRE tensioner, new fuel rail (to accommodate COG) for under $1,000. Maybe that would gain me a couple PSI and do the trick.

Are you on your stock fuel pump and injectors?
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Old 08-29-2012, 09:19 AM   #20
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I would do skinnies first, and then go for more power or gear. From a drag racing stand point getting 50 lbs or more off the nose while concurrently decreasing rolling resistance and drag would make your combo more efficient.
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Old 08-29-2012, 09:42 AM   #21
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I would do skinnies first, and then go for more power or gear. From a drag racing stand point getting 50 lbs or more off the nose while concurrently decreasing rolling resistance and drag would make your combo more efficient.
Now here lies a little problem.... Where?

I missed someone selling a set recently by about a day or I would have snagged the set and sold the rears as I already have them. I think if I order them new from Bogart they are going to run close to $1500 for the fronts only and more importantly be back ordered and might not get here before my track closes for the year. I definitely want skinnies.. Just a matter of cash to do everything I want :( Spent about $15K this year on the car already and the wife may kill me if I spend much more.
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Old 08-29-2012, 11:14 AM   #22
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I would definately upgrade your fuel system before you UP the boost. That is going to cost $400-800 for injectors and another $250 for the ZL1 fuel pump. Then labor costs if you dont do your own work.

JRE and Superchargerconnection both sell the OD Cog and fuel rail $400 i think?

You might be best off going after that 1.6 60ft time
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Old 08-29-2012, 11:20 AM   #23
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Something else I noticed is your trap speed at 114. Im at 4400 ft elevation and ran a 11.8 @122 (shitty 2.0 60') when I was at 635hp 640 tq. I think the DA that day was 6000-7000 ft.

I would think you would be closer to a 117-118 mph trap speed?
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Old 08-29-2012, 01:25 PM   #24
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Something else I noticed is your trap speed at 114. Im at 4400 ft elevation and ran a 11.8 @122 (shitty 2.0 60') when I was at 635hp 640 tq. I think the DA that day was 6000-7000 ft.

I would think you would be closer to a 117-118 mph trap speed?
my best trap was a 119 but that was a 12.5 I think... normal is right around 12.1@114 though.

DA here was a little over 9K that day

The ZL1 pump is only rated to 600hp I think isn't it? Seems like a waist to drop the rear end and put this in if I am already there and hope to be over that soon... The alternatives seem to be ridiculously priced however.
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Old 08-29-2012, 02:22 PM   #25
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I dont think anyone using the ZL1 pump has maxed it out yet. I have 714 rwhp and the ZL1 is working just fine for me.
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