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Old 04-23-2015, 06:16 PM   #1
StLCamarofan
 
Drives: 2010 2SS M6
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: St. Louis, MO
Posts: 37
FARK Questions

Im looking to install a 4-channel amp & monoblock for a sub. Since both of my amps are on a rack I built on the passenger side, i guess im going to have to run a splice for the speaker wires to the harness. Anyone know what guage the wires are?

I also have 2 other newb questions. First, I intend to ground to the chassis ground near the battery, total wattage is 800 RMS combined, should i run a ground for each amp seperately or use a disty? Further, is there any another ground connection associated with the FARk harness itself? A post I encountered in my search suggested there might be one.

2nd, any recommendations for how to split the turn on signal from the Fark to each amp?

Thanks in advance
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Old 04-23-2015, 09:32 PM   #2
cmracing
 
Drives: 2014 RS/SS
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: NJ
Posts: 191
The factory speaker wiring is puny, you can use it if you are leaving the stock speakers in place, I think it is 22 gauge, maybe smaller. Anyway, you can run 16 gauge from your amps to the FARK adapter since it will still be heavier gauge that the stock wiring.

I ran two grounds from my amps to the battery, but you can use a block if you like. Use #6 or #4 from the battery to the block, it is a very short distance.

I ran the amp turn-on wire from the FARK over to my first amp, then a short wire from that amp to the sub amp.

Not sure of any ground connections available with the FARK, but they would not be useful for the amps.
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Old 04-24-2015, 12:12 AM   #3
StLCamarofan
 
Drives: 2010 2SS M6
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Location: St. Louis, MO
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Thanks man. I have some 16 so ill definitely use that. Im on the fence about the speaker wiring, im tempted to run my own wire from the amp for the 6x9s since theyre right there, dont know if that'll cause any problems. A stereo shop i was going to take it to said they would only be replacing the wiring between the amp and the door and then splicing at the factory connector, so after watching a few videos i think i can fairly easily get the door speakers in as well. Would i have to remove the fromt seats and all the carpet to route new speaker wire for the fronts?
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Old 04-24-2015, 12:46 PM   #4
jeffa
 
Drives: 2014 2LT/RS Ashen Gray Metallic
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Location: Redondo Beach, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StLCamarofan View Post
Thanks man. I have some 16 so ill definitely use that. Im on the fence about the speaker wiring, im tempted to run my own wire from the amp for the 6x9s since theyre right there, dont know if that'll cause any problems. A stereo shop i was going to take it to said they would only be replacing the wiring between the amp and the door and then splicing at the factory connector, so after watching a few videos i think i can fairly easily get the door speakers in as well. Would i have to remove the fromt seats and all the carpet to route new speaker wire for the fronts?
You won't gain very much in power handling or sound quality if you direct wire the rear speakers to the amp, so IMHO, it's not worth the effort. And the BA rear speakers are bi amped, so you can't just connect the aftermarket amp to the speakers.

That is why Sub Thump includes the rear speaker adapter plug that has a crossover built-in to allow an aftermarket amp to drive the rear speakers properly when using the FARK kit speaker connector that wires the aftermarket amp into the existing speaker wires in the car. Much easier to do it this way than to run new speaker wires to the front of the car and splice them into the factory wiring at the door. Believe me, you won't be loosing any sound quality even if you install aftermarket speakers at a later time. It's just so much easier and neater to use the FARK speaker connector and have all the speaker wiring from the aftermarket amps connect to one central connector.
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Old 04-24-2015, 03:50 PM   #5
cmracing
 
Drives: 2014 RS/SS
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: NJ
Posts: 191
Quote:
Originally Posted by StLCamarofan View Post
Thanks man. I have some 16 so ill definitely use that. Im on the fence about the speaker wiring, im tempted to run my own wire from the amp for the 6x9s since theyre right there, dont know if that'll cause any problems. A stereo shop i was going to take it to said they would only be replacing the wiring between the amp and the door and then splicing at the factory connector, so after watching a few videos i think i can fairly easily get the door speakers in as well. Would i have to remove the fromt seats and all the carpet to route new speaker wire for the fronts?
Front seats do not have to be removed. I will tackle the door speakers soon. I ran new wire up to the front, but have not removed the door panels yet.

If you are adding a new amp to drive the front and rear speakers, and you are replacing the rear speakers (which is a PITA), then you can simply run two new wires from the new amp to the new rear speakers.

If you plan on retaining the stock rear speakers, you need the special jumper that comes in the FARK kit. I guess the stock BA amp has a pair of outputs for the front speakers, another output for the center (dash) speaker, and two more pairs of outputs for the rear speakers, one for the woofer, one for the tweeter, they did their crossover internally in the amp.

All aftermarket speakers I have seen have the crossovers either built-into the speaker, or have external crossovers, but either way, only requires one pair of wires to be run per speaker. The external crossovers will have two pairs of wires coming off of it, one for the woofer/mid, the other for the tweeter. Heck, maybe higher end stuff has three outputs, don't know, never dealt with anything like that.
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Old 04-29-2015, 09:56 PM   #6
StLCamarofan
 
Drives: 2010 2SS M6
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: St. Louis, MO
Posts: 37
Points made guys, thanks. Anyone happen to know if alpine type s tweeters will fit in the tweeter covers? I was told they would not
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