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Dragstrip and Launch Techniques Discussion 1/4 mile, 1/8 mile, launch discussions.

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Old 09-12-2012, 12:42 PM   #1
Pro Stock John
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Suspension parts to help 60 ft?

Wondering if any folks have upgraded to aftermarket control arms etc and noticed an improvement on 60 ft?

My best so far on stock P-Zeros (auto guy here) is a 1.92 and I'm averaging 1.95's. I have some DR's coming and I'm thinking they will help a lot but sometimes in the past (4th gen days) we'd get some tire hop when we put on sticky tires.
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Old 09-12-2012, 12:50 PM   #2
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I've read on here that aftermarket trailing arms are the biggest single thing you can do to your suspension to stop wheel hop and improve 60' times.
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Old 09-12-2012, 01:40 PM   #3
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Subframe bushings would help as well, make sure that all the power gets put to the ground.
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Old 09-12-2012, 03:18 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by Pro Stock John View Post
Wondering if any folks have upgraded to aftermarket control arms etc and noticed an improvement on 60 ft?

My best so far on stock P-Zeros (auto guy here) is a 1.92 and I'm averaging 1.95's. I have some DR's coming and I'm thinking they will help a lot but sometimes in the past (4th gen days) we'd get some tire hop when we put on sticky tires.
Hey John there a couple rear suspension parts that really help with the wheel hop and 60ft times on these cars. The first part we normally reccomend for people concentrating on drag racing is the trailing arms and outer trailing arm bushings. These two parts are easy to install and make some of the biigest difference as far as performance goes. After these two part we generally recommend toe rods, rear cradle bushing kit, and rear sway bar.

I would get the car to the track and see how she runs on the factory suspension with the DRs and go from there. If there is anything I can help you out with or if you want some BMR parts give me a call.

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Old 09-12-2012, 04:13 PM   #5
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John

You should have looked under my car at ls fest.
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Old 09-12-2012, 04:17 PM   #6
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John

You should have looked under my car at ls fest.
He definitely should of because he would have seen a whole bunch red BMR Suspension parts!
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Old 09-12-2012, 05:05 PM   #7
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He definitely should of because he would have seen a whole bunch red BMR Suspension parts!
You mean just about the whole catalog. Wish Al and you guys would have been at ls fest.
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Old 09-12-2012, 11:20 PM   #8
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Hey John, I'd try the DRs first and see how it does. On a close to stock powered car, you can take some deflection out of the car with trailing arms/toe-rods. But this mod seems to really shine when you add more power.

I have subframe connectors, toe-rods, and trailing arms with 20" ET Streets. Now Im dead on consistent with my 60' and 330' short times. But like we talked about, the 20" drag radials slowed my car down since its stock.

IMHO, I'd probably do trailing arms first along with cradle bushings. Then keep going from there if needed if you get hop. But more than likely, stock will be fine.
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Old 09-13-2012, 09:33 AM   #9
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I've got DR's coming, and a converter is planned - my goal is 11.99 stock internal. So far I have the MPH to get there but not the traction.
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Old 09-13-2012, 10:13 AM   #10
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John,

With slicks and trailing arms I went 1.44. I've just added cradle bushings, toe rods, and the Farks no hop upper control arm bushings. First time out with the new parts the car was only leaving on 11 psi so I saw no improvement. I'll be back on the track next Friday to try again.
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Old 09-13-2012, 10:19 AM   #11
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Thanks guys. I better go look at BMR's site to become more familiar with the products.
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Old 09-13-2012, 10:33 AM   #12
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You mean just about the whole catalog. Wish Al and you guys would have been at ls fest.
I wish we would have been there also but we couldn't get our Camaro finished up in time to get out there and do some racing.

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Thanks guys. I better go look at BMR's site to become more familiar with the products.
When you are ready John give me a call!
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Old 09-13-2012, 10:35 AM   #13
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Josh what do you mean by deflection?
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Old 09-13-2012, 10:39 AM   #14
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Josh what do you mean by deflection?
Deflection is the degree to which a structural element is displaced under a load. Basically it means how much movement/flex/give a part has under load.
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Old 09-13-2012, 11:18 AM   #15
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Deflection is the degree to which a structural element is displaced under a load. Basically it means how much movement/flex/give a part has under load.

Exactly. BMR has some good videos to show deflection under a load with stock parts. (I believe that is where I saw the vids).

So the stamped steel factory stuff moves around a little under load. And the aftermarket stuff doesnt. So then this movement is pushed to the bushing since they are next in line.

Until you start making big power I think a race alingment with the IRS and D/R will make the largest change.
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Old 09-13-2012, 01:15 PM   #16
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Yeah the BMR videos are cool, I've watched them several times.

Based on the vids, I see up/down slop, as well as front/back slop with the stock parts. Which suspension part helps to minimize up/down movement?
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Old 09-13-2012, 02:01 PM   #17
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Wondering if any folks have upgraded to aftermarket control arms etc and noticed an improvement on 60 ft?

My best so far on stock P-Zeros (auto guy here) is a 1.92 and I'm averaging 1.95's. I have some DR's coming and I'm thinking they will help a lot but sometimes in the past (4th gen days) we'd get some tire hop when we put on sticky tires.
Hey buddy, it's TTP Matt

I was having a large problem with my car squatting/negative camber about 10 feet out of the hole blowing the tires loose. I added the Pfadt Street Coilovers, Pfadt Lower Control Arm Bushing Set in the rear and that alleviated most of the negative camber out of the holes. Then added on the rest of the Pfadt goodies; Pfadt rear trailing arms, Pfadt rear adjustable toe rods, Pfadt subframe bushings, Pfadt rear drag bar, on top of Frank's DSS 9" IRS setup & the Farks No-Hop upper control arm bushings. Now the car just goes! Last year before we added the new motor, we went 9.87 on a stock bottom end with a best 60 ft of 1.41 on a 18" Mickey Thompson Street II Radial 305/45/18. Now we're on a real set of M&H DOT radials and will be hitting it with a Hoosier slick also.



Throw me a PM or a call John I'll get you squared away!

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Old 09-13-2012, 02:36 PM   #18
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Matt Sorian? Wassah.

Noted. Waiting for my damn DR's to show up.

Camber you say, never looked at camber with the 4th gens... whole new ballgame it sounds like.
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Old 09-13-2012, 04:08 PM   #19
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Matt Sorian? Wassah.

Noted. Waiting for my damn DR's to show up.

Camber you say, never looked at camber with the 4th gens... whole new ballgame it sounds like.
Whats up brother... Going out to Indy ?

Hahaha... Yep those pesky upper control arms are in play on the 5th Gen's now

Let me know if you need anything or call me to shoot the crap one day.

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Old 09-13-2012, 06:45 PM   #20
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There are absolutely some big gains to be found when moving to aftermarket suspension components. Not only is it an issue of the factory arms deflecting, but the entire subframe moving relative to the chassis that effects performance. Take a look at our Solid Subframe Mount demonstration and you can see exactly what we mean:



As the subframe moves when you're launching the car it's extremely difficult for the car to stay in proper alignment, this deflection can lead to wheel hop and makes the car difficult to launch properly. The simple solution is a Solid Subframe Mount that replaces the factory rubber bushings! Our solid subframe mounts do not significantly impact ride quality or generate any more noise, they just work really well. After a while you will forget they are there, until you drive a factory car again!

We also manufacture fabricated Rear Trailing Arms and Tie Rods to eliminate deflection of the stock arm, as well as at the factory rubber bushings. All of our Arm kits come with both the Polyurethane bushings you will need to complete your install. These can also make a big difference in how easy your car is to get out of the hole, they're also a very simple install.

For fine tuning your drag performance you can also run one of our large rear sway bar packages. Our drag rear bar will bolt directly up to your 2010 rear suspension and help minimize independant movement of the wheels on hard acceleration. This helps keep your contact patches even to promote increased traction.

We've definitely got the parts to help your all our Drag Race Camaro perform at it's best. Matt @ RX is just one example of a full Pfadt Drag Race build that's performing really well. Rodney@RPM Transmissions is also running a full Pfadt Drag Package in his White drag Camaro, and recently ran a 1.3x 60' time at Camaro5Fest.

Definitely keep us in mind for your future drag setups! We can be reached at 1-888-972-2464 or you can email me directly to jarrett@pfadtracing.com.
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Old 09-14-2012, 10:13 AM   #21
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Yeah the BMR videos are cool, I've watched them several times.

Based on the vids, I see up/down slop, as well as front/back slop with the stock parts. Which suspension part helps to minimize up/down movement?
The upper control arm bushings, trailing arms, outer trailing arm bushings, and toe rods really help with that slop in the rear suspension but you also can't forget about the rear cradle bushings to help limit the movement in the rear cradle. For your situation I would start off with the trailing arms and outer trailing arm bushings and work from there.
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Old 09-14-2012, 10:35 AM   #22
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And my drag radials finally showed up! No more rolling into the gas on P-Zeros! Best I could cut on them was 1.92 and I'm averaging 1.95's right now. I'll pay close attention for wheel hop and then if need be I'll join the BMR nation.
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Old 09-14-2012, 11:09 AM   #23
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Hey buddy, it's TTP Matt

I was having a large problem with my car squatting/negative camber about 10 feet out of the hole blowing the tires loose. I added the Pfadt Street Coilovers, Pfadt Lower Control Arm Bushing Set in the rear and that alleviated most of the negative camber out of the holes. Then added on the rest of the Pfadt goodies; Pfadt rear trailing arms, Pfadt rear adjustable toe rods, Pfadt subframe bushings, Pfadt rear drag bar, on top of Frank's DSS 9" IRS setup & the Farks No-Hop upper control arm bushings. Now the car just goes! Last year before we added the new motor, we went 9.87 on a stock bottom end with a best 60 ft of 1.41 on a 18" Mickey Thompson Street II Radial 305/45/18. Now we're on a real set of M&H DOT radials and will be hitting it with a Hoosier slick also.



Throw me a PM or a call John I'll get you squared away!

- Matt
Matt did you remove the front sway bar?
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Old 09-14-2012, 12:47 PM   #24
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Matt did you remove the front sway bar?
Would you believe that it fell off?
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Old 09-14-2012, 12:52 PM   #25
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Would you believe that it fell off?
Mine fell off at Ted's but I didn't gain anything but squirely driving on the highway.
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