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Old 09-13-2012, 09:14 PM   #1
pluckracin
 
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oil catch tank

i bought this cool carbon fiber oil catch tank with a window in it..
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Old 09-13-2012, 11:16 PM   #2
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I like that! How much?
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Old 09-14-2012, 05:02 PM   #3
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oil catch tank

sammyv i got this from fastwrx.com in va. 75.00 + 8.00 shipping, i like the sight glass in it for easy view of oil level and the carbon fiber also. best deal i have found to date. this goes great with my carbon fiber intake tube as well. thanks mark
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Old 09-14-2012, 05:42 PM   #4
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It is an empty liquid overflow tank....does not separate oil from the crankcase vapors. Would work great as a radiator overflow, etc. but its just an empty can w/fittings on it....not an oil sperator. Looks nice though!
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Old 09-15-2012, 08:56 AM   #5
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Had the oil catch can installed at Fest II ......typically I have emptied about separated oil from the catch can about every 3000 miles. Usually the catch can is 1/4 full.....just saying!
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Old 09-15-2012, 11:55 AM   #6
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works well

yeah this oil catch can has a separator plate with a down tube thru the center and a stainless screen below that, the subaru race guys use this and it works great, two sight glasses to watch it work...
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Old 09-15-2012, 12:29 PM   #7
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Does it come with some sort of mounting hardware?
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Old 09-15-2012, 12:48 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pluckracin View Post
yeah this oil catch can has a separator plate with a down tube thru the center and a stainless screen below that, the subaru race guys use this and it works great, two sight glasses to watch it work...
LOL! No intention of insulting you....just sharing info as you paid a premium to have a car as awesome as a ZL1. Tell you what....test it for yourself. spend $8-10 for a clear glass inline fuel filter and install it between your intake manifold and the can outlet and watch how much oil this can lets past. It looks great, and even a beer can with 2 fittings in (yes, we tested that as a joke and were surprised how much oil it caught) will catch oil...any container that allows cooling will condense some of the oil out of the crankcase vapors.....but the idea, especially with a DI motor is to trap ALL the oil, not just a small portion of it. All I'm doing is sharing with you the functions and how to test for yourself. Dont take my word for any of it (yes, we have that same can disected in house on display with the other dozen or so we test).....do it and see for yourself.

It is far better than no can at all so your helpping a portion of the issue, but you want no oil in your intake air charge. Especially with a ZL1 as you want no oil residue build up on your blower rotors as over time the build up throws the balance off....and then the intercooler is mounted below the blower and this si what happens to it in short order as the oil bakes on the fins, etc:



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Old 09-15-2012, 01:02 PM   #9
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yes

comes with clamps + hose,mount clamp with rubber liner, bracket w/bolts
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Old 09-15-2012, 06:15 PM   #10
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Like he said anything with catch oil but unless its a true good separating can some oil will still go past, I made this for my 85 MK1 VW GTI because it fit the theme of the car it cought oil but let alot pass threw but it looked awesome in the bay
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Old 09-15-2012, 06:20 PM   #11
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Old 09-15-2012, 06:33 PM   #12
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The guys at rx have a superior design, the inlet goes down into the last quarter of the can with a few holes along the way into a medium that helps trap and collect the oil vapor, so it is properly filtered before the air hits the outlet, which is much higher meaning it can't suck in the oil vapors from the inlet.
It's a simple design, but effective. If you just have an inlet and an outlet, which are at an even level then most of the oil vapor is going to get sucked back in. Sure it will catch a little, but not nearly what a can with a filtering medium and staggered inlet and outlet tubes will do.
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Old 09-19-2012, 10:54 AM   #13
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OK, I ordered one of the wrx cans...and it arrived. Didnt spend the extra for the hydro coat finish as after we test these we cut them apart to show the inner workings.

Here is the diagram:



It is just a made it china can that the majority of the vapors come in the ceter tube and right out the outlet as you can see. The screen in the center is below the inlet tube so it does nothing. This is no different in function than the orange juice bottle shown but does look great.

Below is a picture to show how the oil is separating in a properly functiong can.

You guys have spent the $ for a king of the camaros ZL1, but have put a can on the allows as much or more oil through and still into the intake tan it traps, so you will still have the same issues....just a little later as you are trapping some of the oil.

Remeber, its not the oil you capture...its what still passes through and with these cheap cans that are really nothing more than an empty can w/2 fittings in let more through than they catch:



Look close at this picture, (these are the parts before final assy and finishing so you can see just what is needed to separate and trap the oil from the crankcase vapors) The vapors enter the center of the can, then they travel down the inlet tube which passes through the separate outlet chamber so no vapors are mixed with the exiting vapors that have already had the oil separated and trapped. Then as the tube passes into the seaparate coalescing chamber, it is dispersed into a coalesing media that traps nearly all the oil which then drips out drains in the bottom of the coalesing chamber into the condesing and colletion chamber (all of these now are totally separate form all other as this is a complex process and you cannot allow the incoming and outgoing vapors to ever comingle or the process is compromised).

Then the vapors are cooled in the condesing chamber and any oil still in suspension is then condensed to droplets that fall out of supension as the vapors are drawn up the outer (cooling surface) wall of the can evenly and into the separate outlet chamber where there are integrated flow controlling check valves that prevent any reversion at WOT from pushing vapors backwards through the can.





This is the most effective and robust design in the industry period aside from going to the $8-$12k centrifuge style Alfa Laval uniits used on industrial diesel applications.

The industry is full of empty, or near empty cans called "oil catchcan" and sold as separating cans.......and this is so confusing to those that are not knowledgable on the function and purpose for them.

There are several other cans that work great trapping most of the oil but none with the engineering you see in the pictures above.

The ones we have tested in depth and disected are (in order of effectiveness, and they all work very well):

RX Products
Saikou Micchi
Elite Engineering
AMW
Maike Norris/CCA.

These, and only these worked well enough to be reccomended by us and we have tested most every one on the market (as any that have visited our facility in person and seen the collection on display) and there are some that cost over $200 and look awesome ....and some with some of the biggest names in the performance industry let nearly as much through as they trap....it is all in understanding the issue, the function, and the process for actually effectively separating the oil vapor/mist from the crankcase vapors and most you see for sale are companies jumping on the bandwagon to just sell a product.

Hope this helps those wanting to fully understand this.

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Old 09-19-2012, 02:03 PM   #14
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Must be the "Robber" strip that gives the WRX can it's high end performance.
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Old 09-19-2012, 02:12 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SC2150 View Post
OK, I ordered one of the wrx cans...and it arrived. Didnt spend the extra for the hydro coat finish as after we test these we cut them apart to show the inner workings.

Here is the diagram:



It is just a made it china can that the majority of the vapors come in the ceter tube and right out the outlet as you can see. The screen in the center is below the inlet tube so it does nothing. This is no different in function than the orange juice bottle shown but does look great.

Below is a picture to show how the oil is separating in a properly functiong can.

You guys have spent the $ for a king of the camaros ZL1, but have put a can on the allows as much or more oil through and still into the intake tan it traps, so you will still have the same issues....just a little later as you are trapping some of the oil.

Remeber, its not the oil you capture...its what still passes through and with these cheap cans that are really nothing more than an empty can w/2 fittings in let more through than they catch:



Look close at this picture, (these are the parts before final assy and finishing so you can see just what is needed to separate and trap the oil from the crankcase vapors) The vapors enter the center of the can, then they travel down the inlet tube which passes through the separate outlet chamber so no vapors are mixed with the exiting vapors that have already had the oil separated and trapped. Then as the tube passes into the seaparate coalescing chamber, it is dispersed into a coalesing media that traps nearly all the oil which then drips out drains in the bottom of the coalesing chamber into the condesing and colletion chamber (all of these now are totally separate form all other as this is a complex process and you cannot allow the incoming and outgoing vapors to ever comingle or the process is compromised).

Then the vapors are cooled in the condesing chamber and any oil still in suspension is then condensed to droplets that fall out of supension as the vapors are drawn up the outer (cooling surface) wall of the can evenly and into the separate outlet chamber where there are integrated flow controlling check valves that prevent any reversion at WOT from pushing vapors backwards through the can.





This is the most effective and robust design in the industry period aside from going to the $8-$12k centrifuge style Alfa Laval uniits used on industrial diesel applications.

The industry is full of empty, or near empty cans called "oil catchcan" and sold as separating cans.......and this is so confusing to those that are not knowledgable on the function and purpose for them.

There are several other cans that work great trapping most of the oil but none with the engineering you see in the pictures above.

The ones we have tested in depth and disected are (in order of effectiveness, and they all work very well):

RX Products
Saikou Micchi
Elite Engineering
AMW
Maike Norris/CCA.

These, and only these worked well enough to be reccomended by us and we have tested most every one on the market (as any that have visited our facility in person and seen the collection on display) and there are some that cost over $200 and look awesome ....and some with some of the biggest names in the performance industry let nearly as much through as they trap....it is all in understanding the issue, the function, and the process for actually effectively separating the oil vapor/mist from the crankcase vapors and most you see for sale are companies jumping on the bandwagon to just sell a product.

Hope this helps those wanting to fully understand this.

Thank you for explaining this, i was really interested in this. Looks like RX is the way to go
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Old 09-19-2012, 02:32 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SC2150 View Post
It is an empty liquid overflow tank....does not separate oil from the crankcase vapors. Would work great as a radiator overflow, etc. but its just an empty can w/fittings on it....not an oil sperator. Looks nice though!
Just wanted to say Thanks for all your help on the forum.For taking the time to explain everything in detail...
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Old 09-19-2012, 04:22 PM   #17
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WOW

Now I understand Thanks
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Old 09-19-2012, 05:44 PM   #18
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We did the oil pull through test and it saturated the clear glass fuel filter in less than 100 miles and it had a vacuum leak we could not stop....so when we tried to open the can none of the joints would release. So we cut it lengthways (as we do with all we test) and here is what we found:



There is a plastic resin poured into it (thats the clear windows) and that is what seals it all together. Well it did not cover all inside so it allowed vacuum to leak out the top portion. (see the section on the bottom, right next to the tube, at the top where the resin did not coat....you DONT want a vacuum leak causing a lean condition, especially on a FI engine).

As you can see, the top section is the same simple in and out and the screen is below it all. If they extended the inlet tube into the screen this would actuall work much better as the screen would coalesce a good amount of the oil, and the oil laden vapors would still condense some by cooling before exiting through the screen. But the plastic insulates the cooling the aluminum would normally give so its ability to condesnse is greatly reduced.

So, in conclusion, this looks great, but is really no different from the other ebay/china style cans.
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Old 09-19-2012, 06:12 PM   #19
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Wow!! That looks about as effective as the juice jug. Ordered your catch can and RXChiller today on the phone. Excellent service might I add. Thanks. Can't wait to get them installed.
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Old 09-19-2012, 06:42 PM   #20
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I still don't get it, why is it so bad for the oil, instead of being caught in said can, to just continue on and flash-burn off like it is designed?

I don't have a supercharger issue, but the V8 doesn't seem to have a problem with the oil buring off as it was designed and warrantied by GM.

My mechanic who has owned 7 Camaros, albeit no Camaro5 yet, states he wouldn't put one in his car. Then again, he has no vested interest to say otherwise...
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Old 09-19-2012, 06:50 PM   #21
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interesting...but what's with the stories of other 5th owners having oil leaks post catch can installation? This is why I am reluctant to get one(that works well)..
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Old 09-19-2012, 11:04 PM   #22
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interesting...but what's with the stories of other 5th owners having oil leaks post catch can installation? This is why I am reluctant to get one(that works well)..
The only oil leaks I have heard of happening after a catch can install post install have been from improperly installed catch cans. The RX catch cans have a check valve in them that only allow oil vapor to travel in one direction. If you switch up the fittings and connect the can backwards you are dead heading the crank case ventilation which will increase your crank case pressure and can blow out a front or rear main seal.
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Old 09-20-2012, 06:44 PM   #23
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Dtrimp is correct.

As for the oil "flashing off" it cant and isnt designed to......has someone led you to believe it should? Try this: Take some of your brand motor oil and pour a little in a saucer, now try and light it on fire. It wont burn.

Oil is never intended to burn in the combustion chamber (unless it is a chainsaw/snowmobile 2 stroke with oil specially formulated to mixt with the gas and burn...but that does not burn 100% clean either). Only the harmfull combustion byproducts.

The oil ingestion is an unintended issue resulting from the way manufacturers try to evacuate and still meet emmission standards. The solution to prevent it is not acceptable is production cars and light trucks as it adds cost and another service step (drainingg the can) and 99% plus of car/light truck buyers today never know it is an issue so out of sight, out of mind.

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Old 09-20-2012, 06:59 PM   #24
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Trust me these things work well. My whole car club is running the RX cans with no issues. We have SC, TT, and N/A C5's running these and everyone loves them. Even all the ZL-1 guys we have run them. Can't beat the color matching also!
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Old 09-20-2012, 07:46 PM   #25
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Are you going to be offering Crystal Red Tintcoat, didn't see it on the website.
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