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Mechanical Maintenance: Break-in / Oil & Fluids / Servicing Discussions on mechanical maintenance and servicing of your Camaro

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Old 05-09-2009, 01:17 PM   #1
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How are you breaking them in?

I want to know how everyone is breaking in there cars.

Have hit 5K once usually hit only 4k-4.5k have 200 miles on the car. Have not pushed the pedal all the way to the floor and have not done anything with the traction control. It has all been mainly in town driving except of couple of miles of 65 mile zone area. Have had it up to 72, but did not break 4000 RPM or over 55 for the first 100 miles. I have the auto.

So have I been bad and possible hurt my car? Or is this ok?

Anyhelp or telling how you have been doing it would be great.
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Old 05-09-2009, 01:29 PM   #2
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I usually go "easy" on the car for the first 1200 miles...

Scott, ya didn't buy a mustang - you're ok!
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Old 05-09-2009, 01:50 PM   #3
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I haft to be honest, I have not been very nice to my car, but theirs always the warranty. I know, I know you don't haft to yell at me, but Mustangs have been harassing me and I can't let them get away with it.
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Old 05-09-2009, 01:57 PM   #4
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ill go easy first few hundred, change oil, and then raise hell!!!
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Old 05-09-2009, 02:24 PM   #5
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Break in is such a farce in today’s times. Break the car in the way you are going to drive it… Most all engines today are roller so really only the piston rings need to be broke in; which comes with time. Look at how most high performance engines are broke in; 30 minutes on the dyno to check and make sure all is good and then “BAM” time to see what she’s got. … Me, I’m driving it like I am normally going to drive it… I will change the oil at 500 miles then call it good. If it’s going to break it’s going to break; not much anyone can do about faulty parts and or craftsmanship. This is how I have broken in all of my high-performance engines and I have not hade one issue.
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Old 05-09-2009, 02:25 PM   #6
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i was thinking easy the first 500 then change the oil. AND SUPER CHARGERRRR!!!
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Old 05-09-2009, 02:57 PM   #7
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burnout off the showroom floor.
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Old 05-09-2009, 03:43 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by blackedout010 View Post
ill go easy first few hundred, change oil, and then raise hell!!!
Now THIS is a plan And I interpret "going easy" as don't hit the rev limiter and don't stand hard on the brakes until "things" settle in.
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Old 05-09-2009, 03:52 PM   #9
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Agree with Killer.

Modern engines are nothing like their counterparts of a decade or two ago. Bearing and ring materials are completely different and the level of finish on the crank/rods and cylinder walls is excellent. Valvetrains are also ready to go. These are roller drivetrains so varying the rpm isn't necessary like flat tappets for oil dispersion and tappet rotation.

The professional builders I have dealt with warm up the motor at 1,500 - 2,500 rpm, check for leaks and set the timing/fuel ratios. Then they change the oil and filter to get rid of any residual dirt/particles/break-in lube.

After that, they fire it back up, bring it to temperature and hammer it for as many dyno runs as necessary. This is from personal experience and there are probably factory GM types that know a whole lot more that can chime in.

Basically you are probably pretty safe in whatever break-in method you choose. GM tests these things to failure to make sure you don't...

If you want to be super safe, get to 500 miles to cover the drivetrain and brakes. Matter of fact you can do the pump and fade method to break the brakes in quicker. Change the eingine oil to get out any residual crap. Then fire it up and hammer it !!!

C'mon Scott. You know you wanna.....
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Old 05-09-2009, 04:24 PM   #10
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i kinda planned on hitting the speed limiter on the way home from the dealership! that appears to be a problem now...hmm...
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Old 05-09-2009, 06:14 PM   #11
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i kinda planned on hitting the speed limiter on the way home from the dealership! that appears to be a problem now...hmm...
I wouldn't do this now. The reason behind the 55 mph speed limit is because the brakes, tranny and drive train still need to be set and broke in. Not following this can lead to catastrophic failure within the first couple hundred miles when trying to stop.
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Old 05-11-2009, 10:28 AM   #12
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I wouldn't do this now. The reason behind the 55 mph speed limit is because the brakes, tranny and drive train still need to be set and broke in. Not following this can lead to catastrophic failure within the first couple hundred miles when trying to stop.
what is "advanced remote start"?
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Old 05-11-2009, 11:53 AM   #13
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what is "advanced remote start"?
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2-way technology and a convenient display screen shows the vehicles current status (locked or remote-start engaged, for instance) and critical vehicle data, including tire air pressure, fuel level, odometer and theft alarm status. This fob offers greater operating range then the factory keyless entry system, and can control a second, ARSS-equipped vehicle.

Remote start package only includes one remote key fob.
here's the fob
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Old 05-11-2009, 11:59 AM   #14
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Does anyone plan on putting in Slick 50 or similiar product on their first oil change, or is this a waste of money?
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Old 05-11-2009, 12:03 PM   #15
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I will be going Mobil 1 all the way and changing every 3-5000 miles.

As for break in, 500 miles without breaking 4500 RPM or staying at any one RPM for too long. No cruise control for 1000 miles and then let her rip!
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Old 05-11-2009, 01:14 PM   #16
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here's the fob
Is this standard with the SS/RS or an add on?
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Old 05-11-2009, 01:37 PM   #17
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Recommended break-in:
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showpo...30&postcount=9

I can't remember how I broke in my GMC.
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she really underestimates the damage i would do to her reproductive organs
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Old 05-11-2009, 02:53 PM   #18
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Does anyone plan on putting in Slick 50 or similiar product on their first oil change, or is this a waste of money?
Im going to be replacing ALL my fluids with Royal Purple. I wish they made gasoline....
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Old 05-11-2009, 03:21 PM   #19
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Keeping mine under 4K rpms (only once have I went past that and that was today with 486 miles) for the first 500 miles, change oil and then she's ready to go IMO!

Also...I've done almost all city driving...been on the highway a couple times but only for 5 - 10 miles each trip. So lots and lots of city driving and varying rpms so far...getting the recall taken care of tomorrow and oil changed with my $100 maintenance coupon!

Almost time to see what this baby has...
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Old 05-11-2009, 03:39 PM   #20
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Are any of you swapping out the Mobil 1 the car comes with for real dino oil for your break-in period? My dealer swears that is an unnecessary and expensive undertaking. Thoughts/comments?
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Old 05-11-2009, 05:54 PM   #21
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My dealer said that I do not need to change the oil at 500 Miles...thats old school...and no breakin period either. he said since you only drive it in the summer change your oil in spring time when you take it out. So i think I`ll let my Oil indicator tell me when to change it ..
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Old 05-11-2009, 06:23 PM   #22
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Are any of you swapping out the Mobil 1 the car comes with for real dino oil for your break-in period? My dealer swears that is an unnecessary and expensive undertaking. Thoughts/comments?
Why would you do that? Dinosaur juice is better now than it's ever been but synthetic is still better. If the car was designed and built for synthetic, it should use synthetic.

Anyway, most modern synthetic is actually highly refined dinosaur juice.

http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Oils1.html
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In the late 1990s, Castrol started selling an oil made from Group III base oil and called it SynTec Full Synthetic. Mobil sued Castrol, asserting that this oil was not synthetic, but simply a highly refined petroleum oil, and therefore it was false advertising to call it synthetic. In 1999, Mobil lost their lawsuit. It was decided that the word "synthetic" was a marketing term and referred to properties, not to production methods or ingredients. Castrol continues to make SynTec out of Group III base oils, that is highly purified mineral oil with most all of the cockroach bits removed.

Shortly after Mobil lost their lawsuit, most oil companies started reformulating their synthetic oils to use Group III base stocks instead of PAOs or diester stocks as their primary component. Most of the "synthetic oil" you can buy today is actually mostly made of this highly-distilled and purified dino-juice called Group III oil. Group III base oils cost about half as much as the synthetics. By using a blend of mostly Group III oils and a smaller amount of "true" synthetics, the oil companies can produce a product that has nearly the same properties as the "true" synthetics, and nearly the same cost as the Group III oil. The much more expensive traditional synthetics are now available in their pure forms only in more expensive and harder to obtain oils. To the best of my knowledge, Delvac-1, AMSOil, Redline, and Motul 5100 are the only oils made from pure traditional synthetics.
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Removing weight has surprisingly little effect on fuel economy
Engine break-in procedure | Gear ratios
2002 GMC Sierra 4x4 5.3 (190,000 miles and going strong)
1980 Buick Lesabre family heirloom with 36,000 miles
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she really underestimates the damage i would do to her reproductive organs
http://allOffTopic.com is the place for all the naughty stuff you can't get away with on this forum...
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Old 05-11-2009, 08:42 PM   #23
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Is this standard with the SS/RS or an add on?
An accessory that you by from the parts counter at your dealer. Costs about $200
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Old 05-11-2009, 08:43 PM   #24
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"The type of fluid used during break-in is also important. You may have heard that synthetics are "too good" to use during the first miles on a new engine, and this is true. The main reason for this is the piston rings, which as we have said need time to seat to the cylinder walls properly; if they don't, horsepower and efficiency will be left on the table thanks to reduced cylinder pressures. Mark Chacon elaborates: "The ring face must have ample time to break in to the cylinder wall finish, and running a conventional oil for the first 1,500 miles or so will aid this. Ring seal needs to be firmly established before synthetic is introduced into the motor, and one of the reasons the factory LS1 has such a heck of a time with ring seal to begin with, in my view, is that many come from the factory with synthetic oil in them. Once you put synthetic in, what you've got is what you've got, and the rings may never really wear to the cylinder walls. Of course, feel free to eventually switch to synthetic because of its better properties, but make sure the rings have seated fully first; short of using a cylinder leakdown tester, mileage accumulation is the only way to tell whether this has occurred."

This is a quote from the break-in procedure referred to by you (theholycow) which recommends switching from dino oil to synthetic oil following the break-in period. That's where my question came from.
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Old 05-11-2009, 08:55 PM   #25
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the only thing i've gone by the book on break-in,was a yamaha waverunner.20 hrs;the crankshaft broke into.
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