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Cosmetic Maintenance: Washing, Waxing, Detailing, Bodywork, Protection Anything related to keeping your Camaro clean and in good cosmetic condition.

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Old 11-23-2012, 11:16 PM   #76
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Shipping is free junkman. The hex logic are only sold at chemical? You say universal colors so can I get a Ccc 5.5 inch pad same colors.
NO. The CCS pads do not cut as well as the Hex-Logic pads. Get the Hex-Logic pads from Chemical Guys in the 5.5" size.

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And the white hex pad looks gray in picture. Lastly any news on zaino towels.
Sal Zaino said that the Borderless Blond towels will be in December 16th.

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And which back plate see a few different ones. Sme flex some none flex. Thanks.
You don't need a flexible back plate. Just get a 5" back plate to go with the 5.5" pads. Don't over think the purchase of the back plate. It is not as important when using my technique.
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Old 11-23-2012, 11:32 PM   #77
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Best price I've ever seen for new. I wonder what the shipping cost will be.
Free if you have Prime. We (wife and I) do.

Got the hex pads and mcGuiars there too.
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Old 11-23-2012, 11:57 PM   #78
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Free if you have Prime. We (wife and I) do.

Got the hex pads and mcGuiars there too.
Well there you go. One stop shopping with free shipping. Can't beat that deal.
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Old 11-24-2012, 04:54 AM   #79
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Check this out, Junkman:

Meguiars 20 polymer sealant $23.99 +$7.95 shipping from Meguiars Direct
Meguiars 20 polymer sealant $16.72 including shipping on Amazon via Prime
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Old 11-24-2012, 06:48 AM   #80
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I haven't gotten to the sealant part of video. Just correction. Guess I should see what else before I start to order stuff. Also talked with dean about the detail spray. He had some comments against the two bucket method of washing. Also said be little over 300 for full paint correction with sealer. Um ok but I can but everything and always have it for less. My question junkman like you said 75% is technique so is it worth someone walking away from a diy if someone else with the skills and technique can fix it the first time. I am torn. To do it and have everything. Or pay to have it done with right and flawless technique. Also like you said since planning on only doing a paint correction once. Why would I need all that stuff listed if only gonna use it once. . Just questions. Before I make a move on it
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Old 11-24-2012, 09:28 AM   #81
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Check this out, Junkman:

Meguiars 20 polymer sealant $23.99 +$7.95 shipping from Meguiars Direct
Meguiars 20 polymer sealant $16.72 including shipping on Amazon via Prime
Wow, that's a big difference.

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I haven't gotten to the sealant part of video. Just correction. Guess I should see what else before I start to order stuff. Also talked with dean about the detail spray. He had some comments against the two bucket method of washing. Also said be little over 300 for full paint correction with sealer. Um ok but I can but everything and always have it for less. My question junkman like you said 75% is technique so is it worth someone walking away from a diy if someone else with the skills and technique can fix it the first time. I am torn. To do it and have everything. Or pay to have it done with right and flawless technique. Also like you said since planning on only doing a paint correction once. Why would I need all that stuff listed if only gonna use it once. . Just questions. Before I make a move on it
First off, I don't use Gary Dean's sealant in that video, I use Hi Temp's Midnight Express. You can use any sealant that you want, it is just important that you protect your corrected paint with some kind of wax (be that a sealant, a carnuba paste, etc...). This will keep stuff like bird poop from etching into your clear coat.

As for the 2-bucket wash disagreement, did he give you a logical reason as to why he doesn't believe in it? In my videos, I explain exactly WHY I do it. You should have gotten his reason for not doing it and weighed the two opinions against each other. Then, make your own mind up. I bet that my reasoning would win.

Now for the purchasing of the products. IDEALLY, you want to fix your paint ONCE and never have to fix it again. REALISTICALLY, that is impossible unless the car is a garage queen that is trailered to car shows or never driven at all. YOUR CAR does not fit that description. Thus, if you drive that car, it is going to pick up damage every time it leaves your driveway. That damage (if you do everything that you are supposed to do), will be minor at most but if you have the products, YOU will be able to fix it at no more cost to you. That's why you want to buy the products. You will be able to stay on top of any reoccurring damage and not have to take it to anyone to have them fix it for you. Also, if something crazy happens that creates some very noticeable paint damage, you will be equipped to address that also. After you pay someone to fix your paint twice, you will quickly realize that you should have bought the equipment and done it yourself. Although you may not understand that fully right now, the second some damage shows back up in your paint after you have paid someone $300 smackers to fix it will quickly shed some light on your decision.

So for me, this is a no brainer because I realize how hard it is to keep damage out of a car that is driven frequently like my Vette. If your car is a daily driver, that thing is going to be constantly picking up damage. The products are going to cost you less than $300 and you'll have enough product to fix your paint hundreds of times.
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Old 11-24-2012, 11:51 AM   #82
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Wow, that's a big difference.



First off, I don't use Gary Dean's sealant in that video, I use Hi Temp's Midnight Express. You can use any sealant that you want, it is just important that you protect your corrected paint with some kind of wax (be that a sealant, a carnuba paste, etc...). This will keep stuff like bird poop from etching into your clear coat.

As for the 2-bucket wash disagreement, did he give you a logical reason as to why he doesn't believe in it? In my videos, I explain exactly WHY I do it. You should have gotten his reason for not doing it and weighed the two opinions against each other. Then, make your own mind up. I bet that my reasoning would win.

Now for the purchasing of the products. IDEALLY, you want to fix your paint ONCE and never have to fix it again. REALISTICALLY, that is impossible unless the car is a garage queen that is trailered to car shows or never driven at all. YOUR CAR does not fit that description. Thus, if you drive that car, it is going to pick up damage every time it leaves your driveway. That damage (if you do everything that you are supposed to do), will be minor at most but if you have the products, YOU will be able to fix it at no more cost to you. That's why you want to buy the products. You will be able to stay on top of any reoccurring damage and not have to take it to anyone to have them fix it for you. Also, if something crazy happens that creates some very noticeable paint damage, you will be equipped to address that also. After you pay someone to fix your paint twice, you will quickly realize that you should have bought the equipment and done it yourself. Although you may not understand that fully right now, the second some damage shows back up in your paint after you have paid someone $300 smackers to fix it will quickly shed some light on your decision.

So for me, this is a no brainer because I realize how hard it is to keep damage out of a car that is driven frequently like my Vette. If your car is a daily driver, that thing is going to be constantly picking up damage. The products are going to cost you less than $300 and you'll have enough product to fix your paint hundreds of times.
I second Junkman's opinion . . . my black Camaro is my daily driver and picks up some damage no matter how hard I try to do everything PERFECTLY.
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Old 11-24-2012, 11:54 AM   #83
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Agreed and am buying products I just know clear coat can't last forever. And as for two bucket I been doing it since I saw your video and I am a believer as well makes total sense. Thanks again. Ill have pics. No worries.
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Old 11-24-2012, 12:35 PM   #84
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Agreed and am buying products I just know clear coat can't last forever. And as for two bucket I been doing it since I saw your video and I am a believer as well makes total sense. Thanks again. Ill have pics. No worries.
No, clear coat doesn't last forever but here's the deal. You are NOT going to be removing any significant amount of clear coat after the initial correction. Once your paint is fixed, the only polish that you are going to be using is M205, which is a very light polish. Couple that with the PC/white pad, and you can polish the paint with that combo for years with no worries. Again, this depends on your attention to detail when it comes to touching your paint. You won't have to fix a lot of damage as long as you are not constantly creating it. So you don't have to worry about wiping all the clear coat off the car as long as you follow what I teach in that video. The fact that you are worried about your clear coat tells me that you need to make another run through those videos.

Now if you were using a Flex, my opinion would change some.
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Old 11-24-2012, 01:52 PM   #85
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I have watched them 3 times. Not worried about it just asking questions. Without questions knowledge is not gained. And I haven't watched the sealer and wax parts yet because I been compiling my junkman cheat sheet for products. I'm excited. My wife news how anal and OCD I am. She is tired if hearing about it and wants to see it first hand. Figure with all orders ill have to put on hold till holidays. Time allowing. As I asked earlier. Can I clay and then weekend after correct. Or shouldn't be done all at once
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Old 11-24-2012, 02:07 PM   #86
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Any chemical guy coupon codes?
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Old 11-24-2012, 02:22 PM   #87
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I bought mine on Amazon with Prime.
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Old 11-24-2012, 02:47 PM   #88
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I have watched them 3 times. Not worried about it just asking questions. Without questions knowledge is not gained. And I haven't watched the sealer and wax parts yet because I been compiling my junkman cheat sheet for products. I'm excited. My wife news how anal and OCD I am. She is tired if hearing about it and wants to see it first hand. Figure with all orders ill have to put on hold till holidays. Time allowing. As I asked earlier. Can I clay and then weekend after correct. Or shouldn't be done all at once
Post #71. My answer has not changed from when I first answered your question. Also, are you reading any of the responses about Amazon that are being posted by CrystalRedTintcoat? He is trying to save you a ton on cost and shipping by getting everything at one location.
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Old 11-24-2012, 03:30 PM   #89
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Did you read what he said. If your premium amazon customer. And I can't find the 5.5 pads cheaper then chemical guys.
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Old 11-24-2012, 04:04 PM   #90
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Chemical guys and Amazon have a hex logic sampler platter for the same price. $1 diff. Amazon resells chemical guys.
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Old 11-24-2012, 04:33 PM   #91
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Just want orange and white pad so no need for all the others and kit items. I got it all figured out. All I asked was does anyone have a code for chemical guys. It seems autopia and autogeek are same site. Or at least same deals. Did find the meguires mirror glaze 105 and 205 for little over 8$ a bottle. So I'm good just wanted to see if codes for chemical guy. And since zaino blonde on back order for next three weeks. Any other towel junkman that's similar. I know they will be back in stock by dec but not till mid dec. thanks
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Old 11-24-2012, 06:13 PM   #92
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Blues45th ... meant to say ... like you I hadn't watched the Sealant video yet but I wrote to Junkman about it. I have a Zaino kit from 2001 in my attic but opted to go all new/fresh for the new 1LE. I didn't want the time of a 36 hour cure, and my car isn't dark, so I went with Meguiar's Poly Sealant #20. It says to reapply every 6 months. Based on what I've learned from Junkman and the videos I've decided to do the following:

1. Asked Dealer NOT to detail my car. And no non-premium gas either!
2. Wash ... haven't watched the Wash videos yet but plan to. Bought a bucket with the dirty separation thing. I'm worried about the hard water spots but look forward to hearing what Junkman says in the video ...
3. Claybar ... I've done this before with my current car. It's a dream how smooth paint can feel. For me it takes a long long time to clay bar.
4. Polish ... I need to evaluate, Is the paint damaged? If so, use the 105 then 205. If not go straight to 205. I want to get a really good polish on it even if the paint is new. Maybe I'm wrong here? Advice, anyone?
5. Seal ... Using the Meguiar Mirror Glaze #20 Sealant and probably the Porter-Cable. Debating if I should Zaino with CS (clear seal) on top of the Meguiars #20 or not. Z-CS doesn't require removal.

On a separate note, I think I messed up and must've been tired when I ordered stuff. First, I think I bought 6" hex-logic pads instead of 5.5" and second I bought a 6" hook and loop standard pad w/o the backing plate.

Anyway, I just bought Chemical Guys' 6" dual action hook and loop flexible backing plate.

Junkman, you said something about 6" vs. 5.5" in your video and like an idiot I didn't capture it and forget. What's the concern if I go to 6"? The dexterity it takes to manipulate the pad?
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Old 11-24-2012, 06:17 PM   #93
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Originally Posted by CrystalRedTintcoat View Post
Blues45th ... meant to say ... like you I hadn't watched the Sealant video yet but I wrote to Junkman about it. I have a Zaino kit from 2001 in my attic but opted to go all new/fresh for the new 1LE. I didn't want the time of a 36 hour cure, and my car isn't dark, so I went with Meguiar's Poly Sealant #20. It says to reapply every 6 months. Based on what I've learned from Junkman and the videos I've decided to do the following:

1. Asked Dealer NOT to detail my car. And no non-premium gas either!
2. Wash ... haven't watched the Wash videos yet but plan to. Bought a bucket with the dirty separation thing. I'm worried about the hard water spots but look forward to hearing what Junkman says in the video ...
3. Claybar ... I've done this before with my current car. It's a dream how smooth paint can feel. For me it takes a long long time to clay bar.
4. Polish ... I need to evaluate, Is the paint damaged? If so, use the 105 then 205. If not go straight to 205. I want to get a really good polish on it even if the paint is new. Maybe I'm wrong here? Advice, anyone?
5. Seal ... Using the Meguiar Mirror Glaze #20 Sealant and probably the Porter-Cable. Debating if I should Zaino with CS (clear seal) on top of the Meguiars #20 or not. Z-CS doesn't require removal.

On a separate note, I think I messed up and must've been tired when I ordered stuff. First, I think I bought 6" hex-logic pads instead of 5.5" and second I bought a 6" hook and loop standard pad w/o the backing plate.

Anyway, I just bought Chemical Guys' 6" dual action hook and loop flexible backing plate.

Junkman, you said something about 6" vs. 5.5" in your video and like an idiot I didn't capture it and forget. What's the concern if I go to 6"? The dexterity it takes to manipulate the pad?
Off topic, but if it takes you a long time to clay bar then watch this:

http://tinyurl.com/d4ttwjv

It will make claying a Camaro possible in about 15 minutes or less.
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Old 11-24-2012, 07:06 PM   #94
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So it is...
  1. Wash
  2. Clay
    b. Do we wash here again?
  3. Correct
  4. Polish
  5. Seal
  6. Wax
  7. Swagger
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Old 11-24-2012, 07:31 PM   #95
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So it is...
  1. Wash
  2. Clay
    b. Do we wash here again?
  3. Correct
  4. Polish
  5. Seal
  6. Wax
  7. Swagger
b) I don't think a full 2 bucket method wash is necessary, but Junkman always does it. I always use a waterless wash or quick detailer to take off the residue with a MF towel.

When you say correct, I think you mean compound... since polishing also does paint correction

Make sure after you seal to wait for it to cure for ~12 hours for most products. Layer with 2 layers of wax for that awesome protection (and imo look)

The last part is dead on though!
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Old 11-24-2012, 09:50 PM   #96
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Blues45th ... meant to say ... like you I hadn't watched the Sealant video yet but I wrote to Junkman about it. I have a Zaino kit from 2001 in my attic but opted to go all new/fresh for the new 1LE. I didn't want the time of a 36 hour cure, and my car isn't dark, so I went with Meguiar's Poly Sealant #20. It says to reapply every 6 months.
Whether or not that sealant will actually last that long totally depends on the elements that you expose your car to.

Quote:
Originally Posted by CrystalRedTintcoat View Post
Based on what I've learned from Junkman and the videos I've decided to do the following:

1. Asked Dealer NOT to detail my car. And no non-premium gas either!
2. Wash ... haven't watched the Wash videos yet but plan to. Bought a bucket with the dirty separation thing. I'm worried about the hard water spots but look forward to hearing what Junkman says in the video ...
You definitely should have watched the 2-bucket wash videos before buying anything. Also, hard water is not a issue as long as you wash your car INDOORS. If you wash you car outside, treated water will still create spots. I NEVER wash my car outdoors.

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3. Claybar ... I've done this before with my current car. It's a dream how smooth paint can feel. For me it takes a long long time to clay bar.
4. Polish ... I need to evaluate, Is the paint damaged? If so, use the 105 then 205. If not go straight to 205. I want to get a really good polish on it even if the paint is new. Maybe I'm wrong here? Advice, anyone?
If this is a brand new car, there should be no reason for you to use M105 on it. M205 should take care of any damage on the paint unless the dealership allows some hack to screw your paint up with a wool pad and some nasty aggressive compound.

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Originally Posted by CrystalRedTintcoat View Post
5. Seal ... Using the Meguiar Mirror Glaze #20 Sealant and probably the Porter-Cable. Debating if I should Zaino with CS (clear seal) on top of the Meguiars #20 or not. Z-CS doesn't require removal.
No it doesn't, but Sal is sending me Clear Seal along with something else. He wants me to apply it differently than the instructions state. He says that the results will be better than if I follow the instructions. We'll see...

Quote:
Originally Posted by CrystalRedTintcoat View Post
On a separate note, I think I messed up and must've been tired when I ordered stuff. First, I think I bought 6" hex-logic pads instead of 5.5" and second I bought a 6" hook and loop standard pad w/o the backing plate.

Anyway, I just bought Chemical Guys' 6" dual action hook and loop flexible backing plate.

Junkman, you said something about 6" vs. 5.5" in your video and like an idiot I didn't capture it and forget. What's the concern if I go to 6"? The dexterity it takes to manipulate the pad?
A smaller pad performs better on the PC because of the PC's limited power. It is easier for the PC to turn a smaller pad and thus, your results are going to be better and faster. A smaller pad will also perform better on humps and extreme curve when using the PC as the smaller pad will not hang up as easily. You can use a 6.5" pad but you have to be extremely conscious of your technique. Too much pressure and your results will start sucking wind. The same will happen with a 5.5" pad, however, it is easier to get your technique down with a smaller pad. You won't cover too large of an area for one and you are able to get into tighter areas for another.

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Originally Posted by ihaveacamaro View Post
Off topic, but if it takes you a long time to clay bar then watch this:

http://tinyurl.com/d4ttwjv

It will make claying a Camaro possible in about 15 minutes or less.
Your link doesn't work.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tramtwo View Post
So it is...
  1. Wash
  2. Clay
    b. Do we wash here again?
  3. Correct
  4. Polish
  5. Seal
  6. Wax
  7. Swagger
Yes.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ihaveacamaro View Post
b) I don't think a full 2 bucket method wash is necessary, but Junkman always does it. I always use a waterless wash or quick detailer to take off the residue with a MF towel.
It is MUCH cheaper just to wash the car again for one. Two, clay residue can sometimes smear and the soap will easily remove it.

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The last part is dead on though!

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Old 11-24-2012, 10:01 PM   #97
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So my car is a year. Light swirls from towel dry before I used two bucket and air blower. Still need 105 . Thanks. Sealer then wax right. Or other way?
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Old 11-24-2012, 10:16 PM   #98
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Junkman:

I bought this 6" backing plate from Chemical Guys. What size hex-logic pads work with it? 5.5?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ls_o00_s00_i00
Thanks,
CRT
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Old 11-24-2012, 10:26 PM   #99
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It is MUCH cheaper just to wash the car again for one. Two, clay residue can sometimes smear and the soap will easily remove it.
Junkman, again not arguing with you, just addressing some of your points with my opinion:

1) Soap is not much cheaper for me...

I have a 128 oz Pinnacle Waterless wash concentrate that I got for $60. That 1 gallon makes 32 gallons of WW solution. I use about 1/4 a gallon a wash for my car. That is about $0.50. Sure it might be like $0.15 for soap, but I would pay 35 cents extra for the convenience of using a waterless wash instead of having to deal with hoses and two buckets.

2) Clay residue has not been a problem with the waterless washes I have used (Ultima and Pinnacle). Always comes off easy as pie
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Old 11-24-2012, 10:28 PM   #100
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Junkman:

I bought this 6" backing plate from Chemical Guys. What size hex-logic pads work with it? 5.5?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ls_o00_s00_i00
Thanks,
CRT
6 inch pads. The backing plate is 5 3/4"
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