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Old 11-24-2012, 02:07 PM   #86
Blues45th
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Any chemical guy coupon codes?
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Old 11-24-2012, 02:22 PM   #87
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I bought mine on Amazon with Prime.
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Old 11-24-2012, 02:47 PM   #88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blues45th View Post
I have watched them 3 times. Not worried about it just asking questions. Without questions knowledge is not gained. And I haven't watched the sealer and wax parts yet because I been compiling my junkman cheat sheet for products. I'm excited. My wife news how anal and OCD I am. She is tired if hearing about it and wants to see it first hand. Figure with all orders ill have to put on hold till holidays. Time allowing. As I asked earlier. Can I clay and then weekend after correct. Or shouldn't be done all at once
Post #71. My answer has not changed from when I first answered your question. Also, are you reading any of the responses about Amazon that are being posted by CrystalRedTintcoat? He is trying to save you a ton on cost and shipping by getting everything at one location.
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Old 11-24-2012, 03:30 PM   #89
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Did you read what he said. If your premium amazon customer. And I can't find the 5.5 pads cheaper then chemical guys.
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Old 11-24-2012, 04:04 PM   #90
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Chemical guys and Amazon have a hex logic sampler platter for the same price. $1 diff. Amazon resells chemical guys.
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Old 11-24-2012, 04:33 PM   #91
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Just want orange and white pad so no need for all the others and kit items. I got it all figured out. All I asked was does anyone have a code for chemical guys. It seems autopia and autogeek are same site. Or at least same deals. Did find the meguires mirror glaze 105 and 205 for little over 8$ a bottle. So I'm good just wanted to see if codes for chemical guy. And since zaino blonde on back order for next three weeks. Any other towel junkman that's similar. I know they will be back in stock by dec but not till mid dec. thanks
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Old 11-24-2012, 06:13 PM   #92
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Blues45th ... meant to say ... like you I hadn't watched the Sealant video yet but I wrote to Junkman about it. I have a Zaino kit from 2001 in my attic but opted to go all new/fresh for the new 1LE. I didn't want the time of a 36 hour cure, and my car isn't dark, so I went with Meguiar's Poly Sealant #20. It says to reapply every 6 months. Based on what I've learned from Junkman and the videos I've decided to do the following:

1. Asked Dealer NOT to detail my car. And no non-premium gas either!
2. Wash ... haven't watched the Wash videos yet but plan to. Bought a bucket with the dirty separation thing. I'm worried about the hard water spots but look forward to hearing what Junkman says in the video ...
3. Claybar ... I've done this before with my current car. It's a dream how smooth paint can feel. For me it takes a long long time to clay bar.
4. Polish ... I need to evaluate, Is the paint damaged? If so, use the 105 then 205. If not go straight to 205. I want to get a really good polish on it even if the paint is new. Maybe I'm wrong here? Advice, anyone?
5. Seal ... Using the Meguiar Mirror Glaze #20 Sealant and probably the Porter-Cable. Debating if I should Zaino with CS (clear seal) on top of the Meguiars #20 or not. Z-CS doesn't require removal.

On a separate note, I think I messed up and must've been tired when I ordered stuff. First, I think I bought 6" hex-logic pads instead of 5.5" and second I bought a 6" hook and loop standard pad w/o the backing plate.

Anyway, I just bought Chemical Guys' 6" dual action hook and loop flexible backing plate.

Junkman, you said something about 6" vs. 5.5" in your video and like an idiot I didn't capture it and forget. What's the concern if I go to 6"? The dexterity it takes to manipulate the pad?
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Old 11-24-2012, 06:17 PM   #93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CrystalRedTintcoat View Post
Blues45th ... meant to say ... like you I hadn't watched the Sealant video yet but I wrote to Junkman about it. I have a Zaino kit from 2001 in my attic but opted to go all new/fresh for the new 1LE. I didn't want the time of a 36 hour cure, and my car isn't dark, so I went with Meguiar's Poly Sealant #20. It says to reapply every 6 months. Based on what I've learned from Junkman and the videos I've decided to do the following:

1. Asked Dealer NOT to detail my car. And no non-premium gas either!
2. Wash ... haven't watched the Wash videos yet but plan to. Bought a bucket with the dirty separation thing. I'm worried about the hard water spots but look forward to hearing what Junkman says in the video ...
3. Claybar ... I've done this before with my current car. It's a dream how smooth paint can feel. For me it takes a long long time to clay bar.
4. Polish ... I need to evaluate, Is the paint damaged? If so, use the 105 then 205. If not go straight to 205. I want to get a really good polish on it even if the paint is new. Maybe I'm wrong here? Advice, anyone?
5. Seal ... Using the Meguiar Mirror Glaze #20 Sealant and probably the Porter-Cable. Debating if I should Zaino with CS (clear seal) on top of the Meguiars #20 or not. Z-CS doesn't require removal.

On a separate note, I think I messed up and must've been tired when I ordered stuff. First, I think I bought 6" hex-logic pads instead of 5.5" and second I bought a 6" hook and loop standard pad w/o the backing plate.

Anyway, I just bought Chemical Guys' 6" dual action hook and loop flexible backing plate.

Junkman, you said something about 6" vs. 5.5" in your video and like an idiot I didn't capture it and forget. What's the concern if I go to 6"? The dexterity it takes to manipulate the pad?
Off topic, but if it takes you a long time to clay bar then watch this:

http://tinyurl.com/d4ttwjv

It will make claying a Camaro possible in about 15 minutes or less.
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Old 11-24-2012, 07:06 PM   #94
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So it is...
  1. Wash
  2. Clay
    b. Do we wash here again?
  3. Correct
  4. Polish
  5. Seal
  6. Wax
  7. Swagger
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Old 11-24-2012, 07:31 PM   #95
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Originally Posted by tramtwo View Post
So it is...
  1. Wash
  2. Clay
    b. Do we wash here again?
  3. Correct
  4. Polish
  5. Seal
  6. Wax
  7. Swagger
b) I don't think a full 2 bucket method wash is necessary, but Junkman always does it. I always use a waterless wash or quick detailer to take off the residue with a MF towel.

When you say correct, I think you mean compound... since polishing also does paint correction

Make sure after you seal to wait for it to cure for ~12 hours for most products. Layer with 2 layers of wax for that awesome protection (and imo look)

The last part is dead on though!
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Old 11-24-2012, 09:50 PM   #96
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CrystalRedTintcoat View Post
Blues45th ... meant to say ... like you I hadn't watched the Sealant video yet but I wrote to Junkman about it. I have a Zaino kit from 2001 in my attic but opted to go all new/fresh for the new 1LE. I didn't want the time of a 36 hour cure, and my car isn't dark, so I went with Meguiar's Poly Sealant #20. It says to reapply every 6 months.
Whether or not that sealant will actually last that long totally depends on the elements that you expose your car to.

Quote:
Originally Posted by CrystalRedTintcoat View Post
Based on what I've learned from Junkman and the videos I've decided to do the following:

1. Asked Dealer NOT to detail my car. And no non-premium gas either!
2. Wash ... haven't watched the Wash videos yet but plan to. Bought a bucket with the dirty separation thing. I'm worried about the hard water spots but look forward to hearing what Junkman says in the video ...
You definitely should have watched the 2-bucket wash videos before buying anything. Also, hard water is not a issue as long as you wash your car INDOORS. If you wash you car outside, treated water will still create spots. I NEVER wash my car outdoors.

Quote:
Originally Posted by CrystalRedTintcoat View Post
3. Claybar ... I've done this before with my current car. It's a dream how smooth paint can feel. For me it takes a long long time to clay bar.
4. Polish ... I need to evaluate, Is the paint damaged? If so, use the 105 then 205. If not go straight to 205. I want to get a really good polish on it even if the paint is new. Maybe I'm wrong here? Advice, anyone?
If this is a brand new car, there should be no reason for you to use M105 on it. M205 should take care of any damage on the paint unless the dealership allows some hack to screw your paint up with a wool pad and some nasty aggressive compound.

Quote:
Originally Posted by CrystalRedTintcoat View Post
5. Seal ... Using the Meguiar Mirror Glaze #20 Sealant and probably the Porter-Cable. Debating if I should Zaino with CS (clear seal) on top of the Meguiars #20 or not. Z-CS doesn't require removal.
No it doesn't, but Sal is sending me Clear Seal along with something else. He wants me to apply it differently than the instructions state. He says that the results will be better than if I follow the instructions. We'll see...

Quote:
Originally Posted by CrystalRedTintcoat View Post
On a separate note, I think I messed up and must've been tired when I ordered stuff. First, I think I bought 6" hex-logic pads instead of 5.5" and second I bought a 6" hook and loop standard pad w/o the backing plate.

Anyway, I just bought Chemical Guys' 6" dual action hook and loop flexible backing plate.

Junkman, you said something about 6" vs. 5.5" in your video and like an idiot I didn't capture it and forget. What's the concern if I go to 6"? The dexterity it takes to manipulate the pad?
A smaller pad performs better on the PC because of the PC's limited power. It is easier for the PC to turn a smaller pad and thus, your results are going to be better and faster. A smaller pad will also perform better on humps and extreme curve when using the PC as the smaller pad will not hang up as easily. You can use a 6.5" pad but you have to be extremely conscious of your technique. Too much pressure and your results will start sucking wind. The same will happen with a 5.5" pad, however, it is easier to get your technique down with a smaller pad. You won't cover too large of an area for one and you are able to get into tighter areas for another.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ihaveacamaro View Post
Off topic, but if it takes you a long time to clay bar then watch this:

http://tinyurl.com/d4ttwjv

It will make claying a Camaro possible in about 15 minutes or less.
Your link doesn't work.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tramtwo View Post
So it is...
  1. Wash
  2. Clay
    b. Do we wash here again?
  3. Correct
  4. Polish
  5. Seal
  6. Wax
  7. Swagger
Yes.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ihaveacamaro View Post
b) I don't think a full 2 bucket method wash is necessary, but Junkman always does it. I always use a waterless wash or quick detailer to take off the residue with a MF towel.
It is MUCH cheaper just to wash the car again for one. Two, clay residue can sometimes smear and the soap will easily remove it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ihaveacamaro View Post
The last part is dead on though!

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Old 11-24-2012, 10:01 PM   #97
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So my car is a year. Light swirls from towel dry before I used two bucket and air blower. Still need 105 . Thanks. Sealer then wax right. Or other way?
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Old 11-24-2012, 10:16 PM   #98
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Junkman:

I bought this 6" backing plate from Chemical Guys. What size hex-logic pads work with it? 5.5?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ls_o00_s00_i00
Thanks,
CRT
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Old 11-24-2012, 10:26 PM   #99
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Originally Posted by Junkman2008 View Post

It is MUCH cheaper just to wash the car again for one. Two, clay residue can sometimes smear and the soap will easily remove it.
Junkman, again not arguing with you, just addressing some of your points with my opinion:

1) Soap is not much cheaper for me...

I have a 128 oz Pinnacle Waterless wash concentrate that I got for $60. That 1 gallon makes 32 gallons of WW solution. I use about 1/4 a gallon a wash for my car. That is about $0.50. Sure it might be like $0.15 for soap, but I would pay 35 cents extra for the convenience of using a waterless wash instead of having to deal with hoses and two buckets.

2) Clay residue has not been a problem with the waterless washes I have used (Ultima and Pinnacle). Always comes off easy as pie
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Old 11-24-2012, 10:28 PM   #100
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Originally Posted by CrystalRedTintcoat View Post
Junkman:

I bought this 6" backing plate from Chemical Guys. What size hex-logic pads work with it? 5.5?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ls_o00_s00_i00
Thanks,
CRT
6 inch pads. The backing plate is 5 3/4"
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Old 11-24-2012, 11:02 PM   #101
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So talked with zaino. Think I might skip the buffer. They swear I can get the same results by hand and there product line. And from what I have read seems like a sell. 110 for everything I need. Money isn't the issue but it is 75% application. And there seems the best. And with real results. Chime in love to her why or why not
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Old 11-24-2012, 11:23 PM   #102
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Originally Posted by Blues45th View Post
So my car is a year. Light swirls from towel dry before I used two bucket and air blower. Still need 105 . Thanks. Sealer then wax right. Or other way?
You may or may not need M105. I don't know because I haven't seen your car. However, there's nothing wrong with starting with M205 and if that doesn't remove the damage, stepping up to M105.

Quote:
Originally Posted by CrystalRedTintcoat View Post
Junkman:

I bought this 6" backing plate from Chemical Guys. What size hex-logic pads work with it? 5.5?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ls_o00_s00_i00
Thanks,
CRT
Look at the picture that you linked to. Do you see how the pad is BIGGER than the back plate? The pad is ALWAYS bigger than the back plate. I explained that in detail within my paint correction videos. As a matter of fact, I show the back plate up close to the screen so that you can read what it says. This is why I stress watching the videos multiple times. A 6.5" pad requires a 6" back plate. A 5.5" pad requires a 5" back plate.


Quote:
Originally Posted by ihaveacamaro View Post
6 inch pads. The backing plate is 5 3/4"
Nope, it's 6". Look it up.

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