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Cosmetic Maintenance: Washing, Waxing, Detailing, Bodywork, Protection Anything related to keeping your Camaro clean and in good cosmetic condition.

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Old 11-25-2012, 02:53 PM   #126
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Originally Posted by Junkman2008 View Post



Nope, it's 6". Look it up.

Not that it's that big of a deal, but I got curious reading this and checked the stock backing plate



But still, 6.5 inch pads are what you want.

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Old 11-25-2012, 03:07 PM   #127
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Junkman, even though this post was not directed at me, I hope I have not offended you in any way. Your videos were the first I watched and helped me to get into detailing. If I have offended you, I do apologize. Cheers buddy
No apology needed. You have done nothing but contributed to this thread.

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Forums have been like this from the start. Many users forget that this is a community of shared knowledge. Only works well if everyone pulls their weight and contributes what they can. I cut my teeth on nowonder.com a computer help site back in the day of windows 3.11 and the new 98.

/thread jack

Now about glass... i have heard some clay glass. Can this be right?
Yes, claying glass is very helpful in getting it clean. I highly recommend. Now speaking of Windows 3.11, check out this unopened box I have. Don't ask me why I still have it, I just can't bring myself to throw it away. My first computer course was on DOS 3.2.




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Junkman, I watched the wash videos. Very good stuff. Lets see if I can execute the water pool rinse. Of course I bought a foam gun and electric dryer (leaf blower). Glad you made the comment about painted wheels. Got a third mitt for that.
And don't use any harsh chemicals on painted wheels, especially black ones. You could permanently stain them and that will look like crap. I only use soap and water on my wheels but I also use Wagner Thermo Quiet brake pads, which leave ZERO brake dust on your wheels. I mean ZERO.
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Old 11-25-2012, 03:08 PM   #128
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Originally Posted by CamaroDreams07 View Post
Not that it's that big of a deal, but I got curious reading this and checked the stock backing plate

But still, 6.5 inch pads are what you want.

*Those who would give up essential liberty to purchase a little temporary safety, deserve neither liberty nor safety*
Is that the same model back plate that is in my video?
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Old 11-25-2012, 03:13 PM   #129
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Is that the same model back plate that is in my video?
I assume so. It says for use with 6" pads, just like yours does. I'd have to check the model number to be 100% sure.

Edit: mine says 18001, standard hook and loop pad, yours is 18002, contour hook and loop pad. Both are advertised as 6" on Porter Cables website, but you can clearly see that at least the 18001 that came with my PC isn't. Who knows. Doesn't make much difference.

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Old 11-25-2012, 07:36 PM   #130
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Originally Posted by CamaroDreams07 View Post
Not that it's that big of a deal, but I got curious reading this and checked the stock backing plate



But still, 6.5 inch pads are what you want.

*Those who would give up essential liberty to purchase a little temporary safety, deserve neither liberty nor safety*
I thought this all made sense but now I'm confused again.

Don't the videos say to use 5.5" pads on a 5" hook and loop backing plate? I bought 6.5" pads and a 6" backing plate mistakenly and just bought 5.5's and a 5 and plan on returning the 6.5s and 6. Junkman says its easier to work with the 5.5s and that the PC 7424 may not be strong enough to spin the 6.5s.

Take a look at the second video at 3:04. He was demonstrating on a 6" pad because his others were drying.
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Old 11-25-2012, 07:48 PM   #131
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I thought this all made sense but now I'm confused again.

Don't the videos say to use 5.5" pads on a 5" hook and loop backing plate? I bought 6.5" pads and a 6" backing plate mistakenly and just bought 5.5's and a 5 and plan on returning the 6.5s and 6. Junkman says its easier to work with the 5.5s and that the PC 7424 may not be strong enough to spin the 6.5s.

Take a look at the second video at 3:04. He was demonstrating on a 6" pad because his others were drying.
From my post, #96 in this thread:

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A smaller pad performs better on the PC because of the PC's limited power. It is easier for the PC to turn a smaller pad and thus, your results are going to be better and faster. A smaller pad will also perform better on humps and extreme curve when using the PC as the smaller pad will not hang up as easily. You can use a 6.5" pad but you have to be extremely conscious of your technique. Too much pressure and your results will start sucking wind. The same will happen with a 5.5" pad, however, it is easier to get your technique down with a smaller pad. You won't cover too large of an area for one and you are able to get into tighter areas for another.
This is also what I explained in the video. I can use both a 5.5" and a 6.5" pad because I've been doing this for years and know how to work with either pad. I tell novices to start with a 5.5" pad for the reasons that I state above and in the video.
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Old 11-25-2012, 07:56 PM   #132
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Obviously, this is Junkman's thread, but I will second his advice above to use smaller than 6" pads for anything other than spreading an LSP. The PC doesn't do that well with big pads.

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Old 11-26-2012, 12:13 PM   #133
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Junkman - just wanted to thank you for the information on how much pressure to apply while polishing. As an Army guy I was definitely applying way too much pressure, and just finished a polishing session where I used your advice and got much, much better results. You can really do it one handed . . . instead of the GORILLA pressure I was using!

Thanks to guys like you and other helpful members here it's great to keep learning and improving my technique!
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Old 11-26-2012, 01:47 PM   #134
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Junkman - just wanted to thank you for the information on how much pressure to apply while polishing. As an Army guy I was definitely applying way too much pressure, and just finished a polishing session where I used your advice and got much, much better results. You can really do it one handed . . . instead of the GORILLA pressure I was using!

Thanks to guys like you and other helpful members here it's great to keep learning and improving my technique!
I can add you to the list of folks who have learned that technique trumps product every time.
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Old 11-26-2012, 11:14 PM   #135
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Yeah I'm a true believer, now I just need you to come out to California to give me some pointers in real time. The Camaro has so many angles/bends/features it is a real pain in the you know what to polish.
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Old 11-27-2012, 12:48 AM   #136
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Yeah I'm a true believer, now I just need you to come out to California to give me some pointers in real time. The Camaro has so many angles/bends/features it is a real pain in the you know what to polish.
I lived out there for 10 years. You should have called.
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Old 11-27-2012, 09:49 PM   #137
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Junkman - just wanted to thank you for the information on how much pressure to apply while polishing. As an Army guy I was definitely applying way too much pressure, and just finished a polishing session where I used your advice and got much, much better results. You can really do it one handed . . . instead of the GORILLA pressure I was using!

Thanks to guys like you and other helpful members here it's great to keep learning and improving my technique!
Here is a little info I thought you may find helpful. Downward pressure on a da varies depending on machine/pad/compound combos plus paint type and condition. The below info was posted by M.Stoops of Meguiars. He talks about mf pads but is relative to all combinations you may encounter.

The following is a example from a M.Stoops post using other products and the need for various downward pressures with a da :
M105 in and of itself has more cut than D300, that's true, but D300 coupled with a microfiber cutting disc has more total cut than M105 on a foam polishing pad. It also creates much less dust, is easier to wipe off, and quite a bit less expensive - it was specifically formulated to work with the microfiber discs on a DA.

If you are DA sanding down to 3000 grit finishing media our recommendation, if you intend to remove those sanding marks with a DA rather than a rotary, is to use D300/DMC5 microfiber cutting disc at speed 4 (the "dialed in" speed for the system), slow arm speed and fairly heavy pressure. If you need more cut, instead of cranking up the tool speed, which seems to be everyone's natural tendency, increase the pressure and really slow down your arm speed while working a smaller area than usual.
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So as you see from his post arm speed and downward pressure requirements are dependent on what you are trying to accomplish and with what you are using to do the job with. I hope this clears up a little about required downward pressure and arm speed.

PS: I have edited this to try and explain my intent to show downward pressure is something that changes under different conditions and that Blues45th will need to know all corrections require a little variation. Inresponse to his comment about the change from a gorrila grip to a one hand control.

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Old 11-27-2012, 10:13 PM   #138
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Here is a little info I thought you may find helpful. Downward pressure on a da varies depending on machine/pad/compound combos plus paint type and condition. The below info was posted by M.Stoops of Meguiars. He talks about mf pads but is relative to all combinations you may encounter.





M105 in and of itself has more cut than D300, that's true, but D300 coupled with a microfiber cutting disc has more total cut than M105 on a foam polishing pad. It also creates much less dust, is easier to wipe off, and quite a bit less expensive - it was specifically formulated to work with the microfiber discs on a DA.

If you are DA sanding down to 3000 grit finishing media our recommendation, if you intend to remove those sanding marks with a DA rather than a rotary, is to use D300/DMC5 microfiber cutting disc at speed 4 (the "dialed in" speed for the system), slow arm speed and fairly heavy pressure. If you need more cut, instead of cranking up the tool speed, which seems to be everyone's natural tendency, increase the pressure and really slow down your arm speed while working a smaller area than usual.
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So as you see arm speed and downward pressure requirements are dependent on what you are trying to accomplish and with what you are using to do the job with. I hope this clears up a little about required downward pressure and arm speed.
Either your post is not complete or it is trying to make rocket science out of caveman checkers. I am completely lost as to what it means. That's why I subscribe to the KISS method. Everyone understands KISS.
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Old 11-27-2012, 10:15 PM   #139
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How does it no make sense. Lol.
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Old 11-27-2012, 10:25 PM   #140
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I was trying to explain that the amount of pressure required to polish or make paint corrections varies from one application to another. It's not a one size fits all. Seems simple to me. On some applications a lot of pressure may be required and some require a light touch. Sorry I don't make videos . I just polish cars and make a little money and try and share what I believe is useful information.I don't have a following but was showing an example of someone who reps a major company that agrees sometimes more downward pressure is required.


I have edited my last reply to explain my intent. I'm not a english teacher or educated illustrator but just a 10th grade drop out that has raised a family and put two kids through college and make littles a money detailing cars and enjoying retirement at a early age. Peace out.

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Old 11-27-2012, 11:24 PM   #141
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I was trying to explain that the amount of pressure required to polish or make paint corrections varies from one application to another. It's not a one size fits all. Seems simple to me. On some applications a lot of pressure may be required and some require a light touch. Sorry I don't make videos . I just polish cars and make a little money and try and share what I believe is useful information.I don't have a following but was showing an example of someone who reps a major company that agrees sometimes more downward pressure is required.


I have edited my last reply to explain my intent. I'm not a english teacher or educated illustrator but just a 10th grade drop out that has raised a family and put two kids through college and make littles a money detailing cars and enjoying retirement at a early age. Peace out.
Your post read like plain English to me. Made perfect sense, and was actually very useful. One size does not fit all in machine polishing, ESPECIALLY now that we have the introduction of microfiber systems. Vast differences exist in technique across systems.

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Old 11-27-2012, 11:38 PM   #142
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Originally Posted by CamaroDreams07 View Post
Your post read like plain English to me. Made perfect sense, and was actually very useful. One size does not fit all in machine polishing, ESPECIALLY now that we have the introduction of microfiber systems. Vast differences exist in technique across systems.

*Those who would give up essential liberty to purchase a little temporary safety, deserve neither liberty nor safety*
Is it fair to say that the microfiber pads correct better/faster than foam pads but don't finish as well?
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Old 11-27-2012, 11:50 PM   #143
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Is it fair to say that the microfiber pads correct better/faster than foam pads but don't finish as well?
That's fair, but they can leave a very nice finish as well, with enough practice.

Definitely more corrective power and faster than foam, though.

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Old 11-28-2012, 12:31 AM   #144
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I can add you to the list of folks who have learned that technique trumps product every time.
In your videos you say 9-14 pounds of pressure and to practice on a scale.
In the PC manual it say the unit applies enough pressure itself. And the PC is fairly hefty.

What happens on 105 vs. 205 if you just use the weight of the PC?
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Old 11-28-2012, 12:51 AM   #145
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Remember the original PC was designed for wood working (sanding).Use those numbers as a base to start and see how it works.As I have mentioned to others do a little trial with more or less pressure. Using m105,m205 or a variety of other compounds a test spot is needed to dial in your process. You can have all the products and equipment available but until you determine which pad , compound , arm speed and pressure is going to give you your desired results on a test spot then there is no need to do the whole car yet. Its not as complicated as it sounds.
You asked about 105 and 205 with just the da weight. The correction would be very slow until you applied some pressure. How much would depend on condition of the paint , pad selection etc. M105 has a somewhat shorter working time before it dries out compared to a few other choices. It's good stuff but there are many choices. I personally mix M105 and m101 (which is now offered in the USA) or m105 and D300 to extend it's working time and reduce dusting.
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Old 11-28-2012, 12:57 AM   #146
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Your post read like plain English to me. Made perfect sense, and was actually very useful. One size does not fit all in machine polishing, ESPECIALLY now that we have the introduction of microfiber systems. Vast differences exist in technique across systems.
Then allow me to words it in a way that makes sense to me, because there are key words that I use when I preach this stuff, and are on point with what I've been saying in this thread AND in my videos.

There is more than ONE technique when it comes to machine polishing. Speed of movement of the polisher, applied pressure on the polisher and the OPM/RPM setting of the polisher can vary from technique to technique, depending on the polisher, pads, and the compounds/polishes used.

There... that makes perfect sense to me. As a matter of fact, I explain that in my videos. I go as far as to say there are plenty of techniques that you can use but I am only going to show you ONE. Anyone who has watched those videos enough times has definitely heard this.

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In your videos you say 9-14 pounds of pressure and to practice on a scale.
In the PC manual it say the unit applies enough pressure itself. And the PC is fairly hefty.

What happens on 105 vs. 205 if you just use the weight of the PC?
If you have watched me work the PC in enough videos, you have seen me use it with one hand. How much pressure do you think I am applying with one hand? The machine itself weights almost 6 pounds. I am basically applying just enough pressure to keep the pad flat, but not enough to stop the rotation of the back plate.
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Old 11-28-2012, 12:57 AM   #147
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Thanks, GT. Interestingly, my PC instructions had the weight comment in the polishing section for auto care. The instructions said it can be used for cars or sanding.
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Old 11-28-2012, 07:33 AM   #148
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While I intend to utilize junkmans technique, (thanks for all the info junkman!) does anyone have a good source to learn about other techniques or to find out more about the different systems like microfiber pads, etc? I'd love to even buy an old hood from a junkyard and experiment with them sometime.

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Old 11-28-2012, 07:43 AM   #149
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Auto geek. Autopia adams and detailer domain all have videos with technique and advice and products and even tell you about the different pads. And I spoke to my paint shop at dealer and they too said the pleasure is key and that you can indeed put swirl marks in your paint using a compound. So they forewarned me. Just like the junkman will admit. How many years you been dong it. It's like me asking my 15 year old why she doesn't drive as well as me a professional driver of many years. Experience is key to this. Especially if technique is 75%.
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Old 11-28-2012, 09:14 AM   #150
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Experience is key ONLY if you are doing it right. Like the saying goes, perfect practice makes perfect. I've seen guys doing stuff for years the wrong way who thought that they were experts at something.
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