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Old 05-25-2014, 01:16 PM   #1
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Help please. Brembo brake swap?

I'm doing a Brembo swap on 12 ls camaro but the rotor is no where near gonna fit inside the dust shield. I know I had to notch the dust shield for the caliber clearance but didn't know I was gonna have to cut the dust shield completely. Is there another issue like the wrong rotor or something along those lines or do I just have to cut it.
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Old 05-25-2014, 01:24 PM   #2
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I'm in the middle of this now so I could really use some info. I'm gonna just start to trim the dust shield.

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Old 05-25-2014, 01:48 PM   #3
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You can trim it. There is a DIY on here to do just that.

Or you can buy and install the SS dust shields.

I did the latter. If you have to complete your install today then you have no choice but to trim. Be careful. You will be creating an extremely sharp edge.

If you want the SS shields, contact Maureen at Rodgers Chevrolet. That's where I got mine.
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Old 05-25-2014, 01:52 PM   #4
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yep, have to cut them or replace with SS, I cut mine and sealed the edges...
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Old 05-25-2014, 02:33 PM   #5
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I cut mine and then sprayed the raw edge with black spray paint to prevent rust. Turned out great. I did not want to take the rear apart on both sides just to change the dust shields. Plus I had my Brembo calipers powder coated. Also went with the Hawk ceramic pads for low dust and better performance. Love this upgrade for the V6!!
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Old 05-25-2014, 02:35 PM   #6
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[QUOTE=C-redfly;7693033]I'm doing a Brembo swap on 12 ls camaro but the rotor is no where near gonna fit inside the dust shield. I know I had to notch the dust shield for the caliber clearance but didn't know I was gonna have to cut the dust shield completely. Is there another issue like the wrong rotor or something along those lines or do I just have to cut it.
Attachment 631308Attachment 631309

What brand of rotors are those? I like that look!
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Old 05-25-2014, 02:35 PM   #7
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Just like everyone else said, you need to either trim the dust shields or purchase the SS ones. If it was me and I needed to complete the install today, I would just trim the dust shield and then purchase the SS ones in the future.
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Old 05-25-2014, 02:50 PM   #8
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Thanks for all the quick replies. I sincerely appreciate it. I trimmed the shield and used black paint to prevent rust. The rotors are from brakenetic, I asked them to do drilled only.


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Old 05-25-2014, 03:17 PM   #9
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You need to order theses:

www.gmpartsdirect.com

QTY. 1 23131778
PLATE
$79.98

QTY. 1 23131777
PLATE
$79.98


I have an extra Right Rear brake dust shield if anyone here wants it.
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Old 05-25-2014, 05:08 PM   #10
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How about bleeding the breaks. What's the best process?

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Old 05-25-2014, 05:14 PM   #11
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Bleed order:
* Right rear inner
* Right rear outer
* Left front inner
* Left front outer
* Left rear inner
* Left rear outer
* Right front inner
* Right front outer
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Old 05-25-2014, 07:24 PM   #12
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its sketchy as hell. just did mine last week and sparks were flying!
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Old 05-25-2014, 08:39 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sycraft View Post
Bleed order:
* Right rear inner
* Right rear outer
* Left front inner
* Left front outer
* Left rear inner
* Left rear outer
* Right front inner
* Right front outer
Okay thanks I got it. It took a while but I finally got a solid pedal





Quote:
Originally Posted by Tmick5jr View Post
its sketchy as hell. just did mine last week and sparks were flying!
Hell yea it was. It was worth it.


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Old 05-25-2014, 08:40 PM   #14
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got it complete.
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Old 05-25-2014, 08:44 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sycraft View Post
Bleed order:
* Right rear inner
* Right rear outer
* Left front inner
* Left front outer
* Left rear inner
* Left rear outer
* Right front inner
* Right front outer
is it from gm??seems odd to me..the way i learned it it's: rear right, rear left, front right and you end up at front left close to the master...
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Old 05-25-2014, 09:00 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by C-redfly View Post
got it complete.
Attachment 631490Attachment 631491

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CTS-V calipers on front?

How about on rear?
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Old 05-25-2014, 09:29 PM   #17
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CTS-V calipers on front?

How about on rear?
Yea CTS-V fronts and used SS rears.

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Old 05-25-2014, 10:29 PM   #18
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did you upgrade to the SS master cylinder?
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Old 05-25-2014, 10:57 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 29er View Post
is it from gm??seems odd to me..the way i learned it it's: rear right, rear left, front right and you end up at front left close to the master...
Your right 29er. Right rear, Left rear, Right front, Left front.
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Old 05-25-2014, 11:18 PM   #20
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Direct from GM Service Manual

This is Correct
Bleed order:
* Right rear inner
* Right rear outer
* Left front inner
* Left front outer
* Left rear inner
* Left rear outer
* Right front inner
* Right front outer


Place a clean shop cloth beneath the brake master cylinder to prevent brake fluid spills.
 2. With the ignition OFF and the brakes cool, apply the brakes 3–5 times, or until the brake pedal effort increases significantly, in order to deplete the brake booster power reserve.
 3. If you have performed a brake master cylinder bench bleeding on this vehicle, or if you disconnected the brake pipes from the master cylinder, you must perform the following steps:
3.1. Ensure that the brake master cylinder reservoir is full to the maximum-fill level. If necessary, add GM approved brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container.
If removal of the reservoir cap and diaphragm is necessary, clean the outside of the reservoir on and around the cap prior to removal.

3.2. With the rear brake pipe installed securely to the master cylinder, loosen and separate the front brake pipe from the front port of the brake master cylinder.
3.3. Allow a small amount of brake fluid to gravity bleed from the open port of the master cylinder.
3.4. Reconnect the brake pipe to the master cylinder port and tighten securely.
3.5. Have an assistant slowly depress the brake pedal fully and maintain steady pressure on the pedal.
3.6. Loosen the same brake pipe to purge air from the open port of the master cylinder.
3.7. Tighten the brake pipe, then have the assistant slowly release the brake pedal.
3.8. Wait 15 seconds, then repeat steps 3.3–3.7 until all air is purged from the same port of the master cylinder.
3.9. With the front brake pipe installed securely to the master cylinder, after all air has been purged from the front port of the master cylinder, loosen and separate the rear brake pipe from the master cylinder, then repeat steps 3.3–3.8.
3.10. After completing the final master cylinder port bleeding procedure, ensure that both of the brake pipe-to-master cylinder fittings are properly tightened.
 4. Fill the brake master cylinder reservoir with GM approved brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container. Ensure that the brake master cylinder reservoir remains at least half-full during this bleeding procedure. Add fluid as needed to maintain the proper level.
Clean the outside of the reservoir on and around the reservoir cap prior to removing the cap and diaphragm.

 5. Install a proper box-end wrench onto the RIGHT REAR wheel hydraulic circuit, inboard (fixed caliper), bleeder valve.
 6. Install a transparent hose over the end of the bleeder valve.
 7. Submerge the open end of the transparent hose into a transparent container partially filled with GM approved brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container.
 8. Have an assistant slowly depress the brake pedal fully and maintain steady pressure on the pedal.
 9. Loosen the bleeder valve to purge air from the wheel hydraulic circuit.
10. Tighten the bleeder valve, then have the assistant slowly release the brake pedal.
11. Wait 15 seconds, then repeat steps 8–10 until all air is purged from the same wheel hydraulic circuit.
12. For fixed caliper models, repeat steps 5–11 for the outboard bleeder valve.
13. With the right rear wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve, or valves (fixed caliper), tightened securely – after all air has been purged from the right rear hydraulic circuit – install a proper box-end wrench onto the LEFT FRONT wheel hydraulic circuit, inner (fixed caliper), bleeder valve.
14. Install a transparent hose over the end of the bleeder valve, then repeat steps 7–11.
15. For fixed caliper models, repeat steps 5–11 for the outboard bleeder valve.
16. With the left front wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve, or valves (fixed caliper), tightened securely, after all air has been purged from the left front hydraulic circuit, install a proper box-end wrench onto the LEFT REAR wheel hydraulic circuit, inner (fixed caliper), bleeder valve.
17. Install a transparent hose over the end of the bleeder valve, then repeat steps 7–11.
18. For fixed caliper models, repeat steps 5–11 for the outboard bleeder valve.
19. With the left rear wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve, or valves (fixed caliper), tightened securely, after all air has been purged from the left rear hydraulic circuit, install a proper box-end wrench onto the RIGHT FRONT wheel hydraulic circuit, inner (fixed caliper), bleeder valve.
20. Install a transparent hose over the end of the bleeder valve, then repeat steps 7–11.
21. For fixed caliper models, repeat steps 5–11 for the outboard bleeder valve.
22. After completing the final wheel hydraulic circuit bleeding procedure, ensure that each of the 4 wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valves, or 8 bleeder valves (fixed caliper), are properly tightened.
23. Fill the brake master cylinder reservoir to the maximum-fill level with GM approved brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container.
24. Slowly depress and release the brake pedal. Observe the feel of the brake pedal.
25. If the brake pedal feels spongy, repeat the bleeding procedure again. If the brake pedal still feels spongy after repeating the bleeding procedure, perform the following steps:
25.1. Inspect the brake system for external leaks. Refer to Brake System External Leak Inspection.
25.2. Pressure bleed the hydraulic brake system in order to purge any air that may still be trapped in the system.
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Old 05-25-2014, 11:19 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CamaroLS View Post
Your right 29er. Right rear, Left rear, Right front, Left front.
Actually you are incorrect...
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Old 05-26-2014, 12:26 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sycraft View Post
Actually you are incorrect...
That is not what the GM shop manual shows at the dealership!!
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Old 05-26-2014, 12:31 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by intensifi View Post
did you upgrade to the SS master cylinder?
Nahh I didn't. But it feels perfect. pedal doesn't travel far and no mushy feeling. Maybe it helps that I upgraded to the Goodridge stainless steel brake lines.


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Old 05-26-2014, 07:13 AM   #24
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Quote:
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That is not what the GM shop manual shows at the dealership!!
Actually it is, I pulled it direct from GM..


Service Information Home Publications Number Search New Bulletins Bulletin Search Feedback Help
Related Documents Global Labor Time Guide: Hydraulic Brake System Bleeding

2012 Chevrolet Camaro | Camaro VIN F Service Manual | Brakes | Hydraulic Brakes | Repair Instructions | Document ID: 2131922
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Hydraulic Brake System Bleeding (Manual)
Warning: Refer to Brake Fluid Irritant Warning.

Caution: Refer to Brake Fluid Effects on Paint and Electrical Components Caution.

 1. Place a clean shop cloth beneath the brake master cylinder to prevent brake fluid spills.
 2. With the ignition OFF and the brakes cool, apply the brakes 3–5 times, or until the brake pedal effort increases significantly, in order to deplete the brake booster power reserve.
 3. If you have performed a brake master cylinder bench bleeding on this vehicle, or if you disconnected the brake pipes from the master cylinder, you must perform the following steps:
3.1. Ensure that the brake master cylinder reservoir is full to the maximum-fill level. If necessary, add GM approved brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container.
If removal of the reservoir cap and diaphragm is necessary, clean the outside of the reservoir on and around the cap prior to removal.

3.2. With the rear brake pipe installed securely to the master cylinder, loosen and separate the front brake pipe from the front port of the brake master cylinder.
3.3. Allow a small amount of brake fluid to gravity bleed from the open port of the master cylinder.
3.4. Reconnect the brake pipe to the master cylinder port and tighten securely.
3.5. Have an assistant slowly depress the brake pedal fully and maintain steady pressure on the pedal.
3.6. Loosen the same brake pipe to purge air from the open port of the master cylinder.
3.7. Tighten the brake pipe, then have the assistant slowly release the brake pedal.
3.8. Wait 15 seconds, then repeat steps 3.3–3.7 until all air is purged from the same port of the master cylinder.
3.9. With the front brake pipe installed securely to the master cylinder, after all air has been purged from the front port of the master cylinder, loosen and separate the rear brake pipe from the master cylinder, then repeat steps 3.3–3.8.
3.10. After completing the final master cylinder port bleeding procedure, ensure that both of the brake pipe-to-master cylinder fittings are properly tightened.
 4. Fill the brake master cylinder reservoir with GM approved brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container. Ensure that the brake master cylinder reservoir remains at least half-full during this bleeding procedure. Add fluid as needed to maintain the proper level.
Clean the outside of the reservoir on and around the reservoir cap prior to removing the cap and diaphragm.

 5. Install a proper box-end wrench onto the RIGHT REAR wheel hydraulic circuit, inboard (fixed caliper), bleeder valve.
 6. Install a transparent hose over the end of the bleeder valve.
 7. Submerge the open end of the transparent hose into a transparent container partially filled with GM approved brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container.
 8. Have an assistant slowly depress the brake pedal fully and maintain steady pressure on the pedal.
 9. Loosen the bleeder valve to purge air from the wheel hydraulic circuit.
10. Tighten the bleeder valve, then have the assistant slowly release the brake pedal.
11. Wait 15 seconds, then repeat steps 8–10 until all air is purged from the same wheel hydraulic circuit.
12. For fixed caliper models, repeat steps 5–11 for the outboard bleeder valve.
13. With the right rear wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve, or valves (fixed caliper), tightened securely – after all air has been purged from the right rear hydraulic circuit – install a proper box-end wrench onto the LEFT FRONT wheel hydraulic circuit, inner (fixed caliper), bleeder valve.
14. Install a transparent hose over the end of the bleeder valve, then repeat steps 7–11.
15. For fixed caliper models, repeat steps 5–11 for the outboard bleeder valve.
16. With the left front wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve, or valves (fixed caliper), tightened securely, after all air has been purged from the left front hydraulic circuit, install a proper box-end wrench onto the LEFT REAR wheel hydraulic circuit, inner (fixed caliper), bleeder valve.
17. Install a transparent hose over the end of the bleeder valve, then repeat steps 7–11.
18. For fixed caliper models, repeat steps 5–11 for the outboard bleeder valve.
19. With the left rear wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve, or valves (fixed caliper), tightened securely, after all air has been purged from the left rear hydraulic circuit, install a proper box-end wrench onto the RIGHT FRONT wheel hydraulic circuit, inner (fixed caliper), bleeder valve.
20. Install a transparent hose over the end of the bleeder valve, then repeat steps 7–11.
21. For fixed caliper models, repeat steps 5–11 for the outboard bleeder valve.
22. After completing the final wheel hydraulic circuit bleeding procedure, ensure that each of the 4 wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valves, or 8 bleeder valves (fixed caliper), are properly tightened.
23. Fill the brake master cylinder reservoir to the maximum-fill level with GM approved brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container.
24. Slowly depress and release the brake pedal. Observe the feel of the brake pedal.
25. If the brake pedal feels spongy, repeat the bleeding procedure again. If the brake pedal still feels spongy after repeating the bleeding procedure, perform the following steps:
25.1. Inspect the brake system for external leaks. Refer to Brake System External Leak Inspection.
25.2. Pressure bleed the hydraulic brake system in order to purge any air that may still be trapped in the system.
26. Turn the ignition key ON, with the engine OFF. Check to see if the brake system warning lamp remains illuminated.
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Old 05-26-2014, 10:11 AM   #25
KaBoom1701
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sycraft View Post
Actually it is, I pulled it direct from GM..


Service Information Home Publications Number Search New Bulletins Bulletin Search Feedback Help
Related Documents Global Labor Time Guide: Hydraulic Brake System Bleeding

2012 Chevrolet Camaro | Camaro VIN F Service Manual | Brakes | Hydraulic Brakes | Repair Instructions | Document ID: 2131922
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Hydraulic Brake System Bleeding (Manual)
Warning: Refer to Brake Fluid Irritant Warning.

Caution: Refer to Brake Fluid Effects on Paint and Electrical Components Caution.

 1. Place a clean shop cloth beneath the brake master cylinder to prevent brake fluid spills.
 2. With the ignition OFF and the brakes cool, apply the brakes 3–5 times, or until the brake pedal effort increases significantly, in order to deplete the brake booster power reserve.
 3. If you have performed a brake master cylinder bench bleeding on this vehicle, or if you disconnected the brake pipes from the master cylinder, you must perform the following steps:
3.1. Ensure that the brake master cylinder reservoir is full to the maximum-fill level. If necessary, add GM approved brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container.
If removal of the reservoir cap and diaphragm is necessary, clean the outside of the reservoir on and around the cap prior to removal.

3.2. With the rear brake pipe installed securely to the master cylinder, loosen and separate the front brake pipe from the front port of the brake master cylinder.
3.3. Allow a small amount of brake fluid to gravity bleed from the open port of the master cylinder.
3.4. Reconnect the brake pipe to the master cylinder port and tighten securely.
3.5. Have an assistant slowly depress the brake pedal fully and maintain steady pressure on the pedal.
3.6. Loosen the same brake pipe to purge air from the open port of the master cylinder.
3.7. Tighten the brake pipe, then have the assistant slowly release the brake pedal.
3.8. Wait 15 seconds, then repeat steps 3.3–3.7 until all air is purged from the same port of the master cylinder.
3.9. With the front brake pipe installed securely to the master cylinder, after all air has been purged from the front port of the master cylinder, loosen and separate the rear brake pipe from the master cylinder, then repeat steps 3.3–3.8.
3.10. After completing the final master cylinder port bleeding procedure, ensure that both of the brake pipe-to-master cylinder fittings are properly tightened.
 4. Fill the brake master cylinder reservoir with GM approved brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container. Ensure that the brake master cylinder reservoir remains at least half-full during this bleeding procedure. Add fluid as needed to maintain the proper level.
Clean the outside of the reservoir on and around the reservoir cap prior to removing the cap and diaphragm.

 5. Install a proper box-end wrench onto the RIGHT REAR wheel hydraulic circuit, inboard (fixed caliper), bleeder valve.
 6. Install a transparent hose over the end of the bleeder valve.
 7. Submerge the open end of the transparent hose into a transparent container partially filled with GM approved brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container.
 8. Have an assistant slowly depress the brake pedal fully and maintain steady pressure on the pedal.
 9. Loosen the bleeder valve to purge air from the wheel hydraulic circuit.
10. Tighten the bleeder valve, then have the assistant slowly release the brake pedal.
11. Wait 15 seconds, then repeat steps 8–10 until all air is purged from the same wheel hydraulic circuit.
12. For fixed caliper models, repeat steps 5–11 for the outboard bleeder valve.
13. With the right rear wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve, or valves (fixed caliper), tightened securely – after all air has been purged from the right rear hydraulic circuit – install a proper box-end wrench onto the LEFT FRONT wheel hydraulic circuit, inner (fixed caliper), bleeder valve.
14. Install a transparent hose over the end of the bleeder valve, then repeat steps 7–11.
15. For fixed caliper models, repeat steps 5–11 for the outboard bleeder valve.
16. With the left front wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve, or valves (fixed caliper), tightened securely, after all air has been purged from the left front hydraulic circuit, install a proper box-end wrench onto the LEFT REAR wheel hydraulic circuit, inner (fixed caliper), bleeder valve.
17. Install a transparent hose over the end of the bleeder valve, then repeat steps 7–11.
18. For fixed caliper models, repeat steps 5–11 for the outboard bleeder valve.
19. With the left rear wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve, or valves (fixed caliper), tightened securely, after all air has been purged from the left rear hydraulic circuit, install a proper box-end wrench onto the RIGHT FRONT wheel hydraulic circuit, inner (fixed caliper), bleeder valve.
20. Install a transparent hose over the end of the bleeder valve, then repeat steps 7–11.
21. For fixed caliper models, repeat steps 5–11 for the outboard bleeder valve.
22. After completing the final wheel hydraulic circuit bleeding procedure, ensure that each of the 4 wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valves, or 8 bleeder valves (fixed caliper), are properly tightened.
23. Fill the brake master cylinder reservoir to the maximum-fill level with GM approved brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container.
24. Slowly depress and release the brake pedal. Observe the feel of the brake pedal.
25. If the brake pedal feels spongy, repeat the bleeding procedure again. If the brake pedal still feels spongy after repeating the bleeding procedure, perform the following steps:
25.1. Inspect the brake system for external leaks. Refer to Brake System External Leak Inspection.
25.2. Pressure bleed the hydraulic brake system in order to purge any air that may still be trapped in the system.
26. Turn the ignition key ON, with the engine OFF. Check to see if the brake system warning lamp remains illuminated.
SkyCraft,

You've thrown me for a loop with this info. I'm just about ready to do this full bleed procedure on my car and I always thought this was the bleed order.

RR
RL
LR
LL

What I'm I missing?
__________________
Performance Upgrades: CAI Intake, VMAX Ported TB, RX Catch Can, ZL1 Dual mode NPP Exhaust, 1LE Strut Brace, SS Brembo Brakes w/ Hawk HPS Pads & Goodridge brake lines, DOT4 Motul, 1LE Suspension Upgrade, 1" Eibach Pro-Kit lowering springs, Vitesse Controller.
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