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Old 02-13-2014, 08:16 AM   #1
tooheysmax
 
Drives: Black 2SS RS
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Airlift time to install. My build.

Well photos and what have you are going to be slow. Yes I have a shop to use and a Lift. I have had the kit in boxes for 3 weeks now. I only opened them up yesterday and took pictures of what was inside.

So this past year I went to SEMA 2013 I probably pestered the guys at both Air Lift and Accuair for about 2 hours each on the Camaro air suspension.


I probably not only talked to Jeremy but also a guy who works for Airlift that drives a Scion for about 2 hours each over the period of two days but still couldn't just pull the trigger.

I did some debate and soul searching but wanted to see more. I also didn't want to pry my wallet open just yet.

A local to me has a challenger running the Accuair setup and well I tried to talk with him and after 5 minutes I realized he was just a tool who threw money at cars for other people to build and had zero tech talent.

He claims the car gets flighty at 150 MPH and he also drag races the car at West Palm Drag way or whatever it is called this week.

I decided to go with the most current version of the Camaro air lift with the V2 set up.

My intent had been to try and install this before going to Orlando the last week of January it didn't happen. In fact I spent 2 hours chasing the UPS guy down to get my kit before leaving town.

And since returning I have worked two jobs and zero time to get in the shop or touch the car. I do have a 4Runner as a back up vehicle and of course that caused a delay because it decided to overheat bust a hose and also not start. So now that I have fixed my 4Runner I can now turn to my suspension.

My intention is to stance everything at stock ride height for now. Yes I know it has a gap but I also think the look of just dropping the full distance would make more people look twice and realize that static riding a car is not all that.

I do plan to replace upper and lower control arms front and rear for more adjustability but that will have to wait a short while till I can build up more funding.

As for now I have a few pertaining questions.

First all of the locations of what I have to cut holes into and where this new kit seems to have different views of what to cut then the last. I will also have to treat the exposed metal since I DD my car and it rains a metric ton and I am also 7 miles inland from the ocean.

Second would be the constant ignition wiring I am a bit gun shy on just tearing into the stock electrical so tell me where and what you guys have done and post some pictures of such as well.

Third the coils are adjusted to a certain height already is this OEM stance or a lower stance and I will need to adjust accordingly?

My last is deciding tank setup. I went with the aluminum tube and a single compressor . I read that the box air control box is suppose to be set up higher then the tank to keep out moisture. And down here moisture is a SERIOUS issue. So I will have to address the drain hole as well. I plan to run possibly two dryers and also set up a back up camera.

I am tagging one person in Jeremy@airlift.com

The car:



I know I can call I just haven't done so yet. I thought I would show everyone how the build is and post as many pictures as possible for all to see.






















Last edited by tooheysmax; 02-13-2014 at 08:20 AM. Reason: forgot picture.
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Old 02-14-2014, 09:43 AM   #2
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okay note to anyone taking anything in the trunk apart the plastic shield goes up against the back of the car it has two little tabs want you and screw all six little some screws that hook up the cargo net you need to actually lift up don't pull out or you will break one of the tabs I pointed at it in the pic.

In the second picture and the third picture for placement so far I'm liking to put the tank all the way to the back I haven't decided if I want to build some sort of structure frame or just mounted directly to the trunk of the car.
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Old 02-14-2014, 11:06 AM   #3
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I found a big piece of aluminum I think I'm going to use that as my mounting plate put some rubber bushings underneath it separate everything with rubber bushings between the equipment to the plate and use some type of flat strap welded to the plate to secure it to the entry point to the backseat. I will probably make some angle bracket and secure it to the wall and drill a hole to run the drain. Along with making a raised mount to put the manifold on.
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Old 02-14-2014, 05:24 PM   #4
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im jelouse. i had air on a show car before, so i can help you out as much as i can. i bagged 2-3 vehicals before.first off, putting the tank on that piece in the picture would be better then bolting it directly to the car.less holes the better. that looks like a 3gal tank. you wont get much play time with that and if you got block valves,itll be really slow.the closer the valves are to the bags the better.some of these companys are making more of these set ups now more for show,it all depends what you have in mind. if you want to go down the road hittin switches and showin off, or just pull in a parking lot and air out. ok back to it. the compressor, viair makes great compressors. is this one a 100% duty cycle?? if not,id sell it. i had 2 450s, and still took 5 mins to fill up 2 three gallon tanks.hit a switch or 2 and theyll kit on.either way, id get another one. if one dies(just sayin) and your outta air, your screwed!!! and it doesnt matter if you live close to the beach or not. install a parkers water trap after the compressor and before the tank, ill keep all your water out of the tank.theres a bleeder on the bottom, turn it and all the water comes out.very simple problem to take care of for $20 buck. one more thing,put your strut bags on FIRST before you drill the hole for the air line,use rubber gromets. and DONT,DONT let the air line touch anything, the airline you have is junk. if it gets around heat,any moving part, or even if its up tight against your car,the vibration of dd will rub a hole in the line.and you dont want to be sitting on the road side with a badass car sitting on the ground and cant drive it,trust me,its not fun..if you keep the whole setup and dont want to change anythingthats cool,its your car,BUT if you want a leak free set up i highly recommend upgrading your air line to all breaded stainless steel, its flexable and the fittings are screwed on in stead of vthe one time use push fittings.if you have any more ??? id be happy to help ya out..after you have it all done......itll be worth all the late nights,the curseing, crying,and your girlfriend leaving you.lol...oh food for thought. my kit cost me $1200, when i was done making it work right i had about 6gs in my suspension.
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Old 02-14-2014, 05:36 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by #1stunner View Post
im jelouse. i had air on a show car before, so i can help you out as much as i can. i bagged 2-3 vehicals before.first off, putting the tank on that piece in the picture would be better then bolting it directly to the car.less holes the better. that looks like a 3gal tank. you wont get much play time with that and if you got block valves,itll be really slow.the closer the valves are to the bags the better.some of these companys are making more of these set ups now more for show,it all depends what you have in mind. if you want to go down the road hittin switches and showin off, or just pull in a parking lot and air out. ok back to it. the compressor, viair makes great compressors. is this one a 100% duty cycle?? if not,id sell it. i had 2 450s, and still took 5 mins to fill up 2 three gallon tanks.hit a switch or 2 and theyll kit on.either way, id get another one. if one dies(just sayin) and your outta air, your screwed!!! and it doesnt matter if you live close to the beach or not. install a parkers water trap after the compressor and before the tank, ill keep all your water out of the tank.theres a bleeder on the bottom, turn it and all the water comes out.very simple problem to take care of for $20 buck. one more thing,put your strut bags on FIRST before you drill the hole for the air line,use rubber gromets. and DONT,DONT let the air line touch anything, the airline you have is junk. if it gets around heat,any moving part, or even if its up tight against your car,the vibration of dd will rub a hole in the line.and you dont want to be sitting on the road side with a badass car sitting on the ground and cant drive it,trust me,its not fun..if you keep the whole setup and dont want to change anythingthats cool,its your car,BUT if you want a leak free set up i highly recommend upgrading your air line to all breaded stainless steel, its flexable and the fittings are screwed on in stead of vthe one time use push fittings.if you have any more ??? id be happy to help ya out..after you have it all done......itll be worth all the late nights,the curseing, crying,and your girlfriend leaving you.lol...oh food for thought. my kit cost me $1200, when i was done making it work right i had about 6gs in my suspension.
Great info. I'm thinking about Air ride. If you get bored one day shoot me a PM. I'd like to talk more about what you recommend.

Seth
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Old 02-15-2014, 09:18 PM   #6
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I got the air ride on my car. Trust me you will love it when the install is all done!
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Old 02-17-2014, 09:18 AM   #7
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Looking good so far, I really like your trunk layout options! Let me know if I can help at all!
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Old 02-18-2014, 08:10 AM   #8
tooheysmax
 
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Well what would recommend for an ignition source constant live wire. I noticed the fuse block on passenger side by the trunk.

I have also decided to leave the damper rate at 15 for the rear. I just don't feel like cutting big holes into the trunk of the car.

And at what settings would the car sit at stock height if I adjust the coil overs. Or should I leave them where they are to get that height?
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Old 02-18-2014, 08:12 AM   #9
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Few more so far.
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Old 02-18-2014, 09:05 AM   #10
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thats gonna be a super clean and nice setup!!
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Old 02-18-2014, 11:22 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tooheysmax View Post
Well what would recommend for an ignition source constant live wire. I noticed the fuse block on passenger side by the trunk.

I have also decided to leave the damper rate at 15 for the rear. I just don't feel like cutting big holes into the trunk of the car.

And at what settings would the car sit at stock height if I adjust the coil overs. Or should I leave them where they are to get that height?
finding the ride height or where you want it(ride height) to be is all personal preferance.trial and error. why would you have to cut big holes in the trunk?? the only hole you should have to drill would be for the airline.as far as the wiring, it should of came with direction,and a relay, with out seeing it in person i cant help you there, you should have a presure switch so when you get to a certain psi it kicks on by itself.hope this helps you out. so far your install looks pretty good.how many vavles are you running??
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Old 02-18-2014, 12:01 PM   #12
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Well for ride height I want to sit stock as a primary and I will have a couple of different settings for rolling low. But everyday driving I don't want anyone to realize what is different until I hit a button.

The new struts for the rear have a damper rod and according to instructions you are suppose to cut a hole so that you can adjust them. I don't see myself becoming a track guru. Maybe slide around a few corners or across intersections but that's about it. And I usually have the rain to thank for that.

This is a manifold box as you can see in the pictures following this. If I am not mistaken other then the white Camaro that is in the brochure I don't think anyone else has this version of the kit installed yet. Jeremy could say if I am wrong.

The tank is a 5 gallon. I did debate on the wiring harness and second 380 compressor but decided to go this route and see how I like it. I also considered making solid air lines under the car and bent to follow the chassis. I will have to spend some r n d and see where I go from here.

This is not a 1200 universal kit.

I have never installed a air suspension before. I have always had a history with 4x4 Toyotas and Nissan trucks. I did install a complete camber kit in my G35 and have a full write up on trial and error of that. I even ruined the Ichiba product line with my results.

The plate and all risers are aluminum to keep weight down. I decided to just sand the aluminum for a raw finish. I can always paint it later.

I isolated everything with rubber bushings. In fact I probably have 40 dollars just in rubber. There are bushings between the tank and plate, plate and trunk carpet, a second set on the compressor, and also the air manifold.

I will also be adding bushings to the three tabs that are going to fasten down to the ridge. Separating the back seat from the trunk. I am also considering some sort of dense foam to absorb and Isolate noise from the trunk and cabin as well.
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Old 02-18-2014, 12:39 PM   #13
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Use green 12 volt wire used to power the 12 volt accessory socket in center console. This is what i used for the ignition Source. If you have any question feel free to ask. The install was pretty easy, and once you drive it you will notice that it performs and handles much better then stock. Riding on air daily driver!!!!
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Old 02-18-2014, 05:21 PM   #14
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i know with the block valves they are pretty slow so you wont be doing any bouncing.lol. the most common size line is 3/8. is that what you have.? im not 100%sure what you mean by making a hole in the wheelwell yet. i never had to do that,but then again i never installed this brand of airstruts either.the rubber bushings your using is a good idea,itll keep the vibration noise down,but as far as trying to keep the noise down on the compressor,its already in the trunk so it shouldnt be to loud,you should still be able to talk on the phone and not have any problem hearing.and if you get an air leak(and you will)youll want to hear the comp. running, they do get very hot after running for a while,and iv never heard of any frying but im sure it could happen.imo, i still think you should put in another comp. the 380 is small,and with the car being so heavy,it should take a good bit of psi to raise it.itll probably kick on just buy raising the front. if you decide now, that you dont want another one, at least save a spot some where in your build to maybe place one at a later time. you have a nice clean build going on so far and id hate to see you do it all again just to make it look nice for another comp.keep up the good work.
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Old 02-18-2014, 10:25 PM   #15
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i have my ride height set as 37 for the fronts and 95 for the rears, nice little raked look. Handles great. But its personal preference based on what feels good for you and how the roads are out by you.
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Old 02-19-2014, 11:04 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tooheysmax View Post
Well what would recommend for an ignition source constant live wire. I noticed the fuse block on passenger side by the trunk.

I have also decided to leave the damper rate at 15 for the rear. I just don't feel like cutting big holes into the trunk of the car.

And at what settings would the car sit at stock height if I adjust the coil overs. Or should I leave them where they are to get that height?
Like charliehus said, the cigarette lighter wire in the center console is a good one to go to. Or if you want to go directly to the fuse box, just make sure you pick a fuse that is hot in the key on position and the engine crank position. If the fuse is dead in the engine crank position it will cause an issue in the system.

As #1stunner and JCO02185 stated, ride will be personal choice. Other factors will come into play as well, like your wheel and tire size. I hardly ever see two identical cars running the same pressures.

This is one of the cleanest looking installs I have ever seen, I can't wait to see the car finished.

Last edited by Jeremy@AirLift; 02-20-2014 at 02:08 PM.
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Old 02-20-2014, 12:50 PM   #17
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Ok started playing with wires today. Had to undo the pink wire from the loom in order to get enough distance since the battery is in the trunk.

I fed the wires for the remote under the seat and through a side opening that runs parallel to the main positive cable (red wire) I then ran the remote along the plastic kick panels to just under the driver seat.

I opened up the back of the console to access the green wire. If I have to run a 3 amp fuse I see there is enough room there to place it but I was debating if I should just have the 3 amp fuse further back on the pink wire say under the tank and compressor?

I apparently don't remember how to operate a volt meter or the one I was using doesn't work. (odds are my luck its both)

So I was not able to go through the fuse box on the rear quarter and see which is constant power either RSV or RSM or another says CAM I think. I would feel much safer putting it here for quicker access.

Tips anyone? I am off to work so I will check in on thread to see answers and if some of you other guys could snap a few photos or post them up I would appreciate it.

James.
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Old 02-20-2014, 01:32 PM   #18
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Be sure the Meter is set to DC and not AC volts. Might be speaking the obvious, but always start with the easiest.
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Old 02-21-2014, 10:38 AM   #19
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How to tie into this green wire....
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Old 02-21-2014, 10:31 PM   #20
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My test and experiment of the green wire.
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Old 02-21-2014, 10:34 PM   #21
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Look at little tab this cotter pin was used for leverage.
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Old 02-22-2014, 06:21 AM   #22
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Feeding wire under carpet.
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Old 02-22-2014, 09:45 PM   #23
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Progress
Too tired for details.
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Old 02-22-2014, 09:48 PM   #24
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Old 02-22-2014, 09:50 PM   #25
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.,.
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