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Old 02-17-2014, 08:17 PM   #151
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ssmike View Post
How is everyone securing the duct hose to the frame/suspension? I'm afraid of the tie wraps that were supplied in the kit will eventually wear through. I'm also concerned about the steel hose clamps doing the same.
I used velcro wrap, too, and then zip tied through the velcro to the car.

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What's to stop debris from going in and plugging the ducts or hose? Is there a screen or something we should use?
I did a screen to keep the big crap out - see post #115 in this thread, on page 5
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Old 02-17-2014, 09:24 PM   #152
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What's to stop debris from going in and plugging the ducts or hose? Is there a screen or something we should use?

Went to Ace hardware and got some scraps of aluminum door screen.
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Old 02-18-2014, 07:07 AM   #153
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I used velcro wrap, too, and then zip tied through the velcro to the car.



I did a screen to keep the big crap out - see post #115 in this thread, on page 5
I like that screen, looks heavy duty! Where did you get the screen and Velcro wrap from. Most Velcro I've seen is 2 separate pieces, I can't quite figure out how that would work. Do you have any pics of the Velcro? Sorry for all the questions!
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Old 02-18-2014, 07:17 AM   #154
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I like that screen, looks heavy duty! Where did you get the screen and Velcro wrap from. Most Velcro I've seen is 2 separate pieces, I can't quite figure out how that would work. Do you have any pics of the Velcro? Sorry for all the questions!
Bought both from Pegasus.

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...asp?RecID=6263

You put a full loop of the velcro material around the hose with the fuzzy part pointing out. Then you put a full loop of the other velcro material with the hooks pointing in. Then, you jam the zip ties between the hooks and loops, or between the material and the hose. Could sent pix later in the week - am traveling.

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...p?Product=3641

way more expensive than screen door but I wanted something really solid. I painted it black - it comes silver.
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Old 02-18-2014, 08:21 AM   #155
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Bought both from Pegasus.

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...asp?RecID=6263

You put a full loop of the velcro material around the hose with the fuzzy part pointing out. Then you put a full loop of the other velcro material with the hooks pointing in. Then, you jam the zip ties between the hooks and loops, or between the material and the hose. Could sent pix later in the week - am traveling.

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...p?Product=3641

way more expensive than screen door but I wanted something really solid. I painted it black - it comes silver.
Thanks! I just placed an order! I appreciate the info!
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Old 02-20-2014, 08:55 AM   #156
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I received my Lambert Automotive / Quantum brake duct backing plates last week and had them powder coated wrinkle black this week. (I use wrinkle black on lots of things to make it appear "more stock"

I did some test fitting last night and found one minor issue. The kit is supplied with 4 bolts (gold). A nut and bolt to mount the small bracket to the top of the backing plate and then I assume a bolt to attach the mounting tab to the knuckle. The thread needed for the knuckle is different than the bolt supplied in the kit. (see picture) I have a plethora of spare automotive bolts and found a handful that would work in its place...If someone were to force this bolt into the knuckle it would strip or cut new threads.

I also played with the routing of the ducts to understand why a direct route could not be used.......as you can see int he last picture the 3 hose would get crushed by the tire at full lock. More pictures to come once the ducts are routed. Suspension is at full drop in the picture but the distance between the frame rail and tire did not change when compressed.

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Old 02-20-2014, 10:16 AM   #157
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I did some test fitting last night and found one minor issue. The kit is supplied with 4 bolts (gold). A nut and bolt to mount the small bracket to the top of the backing plate and then I assume a bolt to attach the mounting tab to the knuckle. The thread needed for the knuckle is different than the bolt supplied in the kit. (see picture) I have a plethora of spare automotive bolts and found a handful that would work in its place...If someone were to force this bolt into the knuckle it would strip or cut new threads.
All my bolts fit effortlessly. Wonder if they shipped the wrong one? Maybe call and ask what thread you should be looking for? I am sure you can pick up good hardened bolts somewhere to fit.
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Old 02-20-2014, 10:30 AM   #158
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All my bolts fit effortlessly. Wonder if they shipped the wrong one? Maybe call and ask what thread you should be looking for? I am sure you can pick up good hardened bolts somewhere to fit.
Maybe, I as mentioned I have bolts so it wasn't an issue.....I just tossed the others aside.
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Old 02-20-2014, 06:53 PM   #159
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I wouldn't waste money on hardened bolts to mount the backing plate. What stress is applied that would require even a grade 5 or the metric equivalent no matter a Grade 8 bolt?
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Old 02-21-2014, 05:28 PM   #160
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how uch duct did you use to route. I read 3' on each side is plenty.
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Old 02-22-2014, 09:20 AM   #161
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how uch duct did you use to route. I read 3' on each side is plenty.
It all depends on the routing....

I do not like the way people are routing it through the suspension and back passed the strut and then into the backing plate....too many bends.

I an going to be routing it at similar as I can to the Pratt & Miller build Stevenson Camaro Z/28.R I am have tried a few diffeent way and there will be some rubbing at full lock but I can see it on the Stevenson car as well...Note the ovalized duct near the frame rail.

-Matt
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Old 02-22-2014, 02:57 PM   #162
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My old setup I used Velcro around the tubing and then ty-wrapped the Velcro to the control arms. I used 3/4 inch Velcro.
Great suggestion! I got a 12' roll of Velcro One Wrap that has no adhesive and it secures to itself once it's wrapped around. I also used it under the hose clamps to protect the hose!
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Old 02-22-2014, 03:00 PM   #163
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Originally Posted by SSSoon View Post
Bought both from Pegasus.

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...asp?RecID=6263

You put a full loop of the velcro material around the hose with the fuzzy part pointing out. Then you put a full loop of the other velcro material with the hooks pointing in. Then, you jam the zip ties between the hooks and loops, or between the material and the hose. Could sent pix later in the week - am traveling.

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...p?Product=3641

way more expensive than screen door but I wanted something really solid. I painted it black - it comes silver.
The screen worked out great! Thanks for the suggestion! I used 3mm X 6Mmm aluminum rivets and painted everything black.
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Old 02-23-2014, 08:31 AM   #164
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It all depends on the routing....

I do not like the way people are routing it through the suspension and back passed the strut and then into the backing plate....too many bends.

I an going to be routing it at similar as I can to the Pratt & Miller build Stevenson Camaro Z/28.R I am have tried a few diffeent way and there will be some rubbing at full lock but I can see it on the Stevenson car as well...Note the ovalized duct near the frame rail.

-Matt
Would love to see some shots as you go, with the wheels at full lock either way (shots from under the car?). I looked long and hard and could not figure out how to make it work, but maybe I am just not seeing it.

In the end, I think we will all learn a lot over the next 9 months about how well certain setups work. I would not be surprised if I ended up having to swap out the hose every year or two, but honestly when you look at the cost of brake pads and rotors and look at how easy it is to attach a new hose, this is going to be no big deal at all.
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Old 02-23-2014, 08:33 AM   #165
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The screen worked out great! Thanks for the suggestion! I used 3mm X 6Mmm aluminum rivets and painted everything black.
Looks great, SSMike. Real stealth from the front, I bet.

The next thing someone needs to do is block off one duct and go nuts on a track for 20 minutes, then measure the heat difference between left and right rotors using a heat gun....
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Old 02-23-2014, 10:08 AM   #166
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Would love to see some shots as you go, with the wheels at full lock either way (shots from under the car?). I looked long and hard and could not figure out how to make it work, but maybe I am just not seeing it.

In the end, I think we will all learn a lot over the next 9 months about how well certain setups work. I would not be surprised if I ended up having to swap out the hose every year or two, but honestly when you look at the cost of brake pads and rotors and look at how easy it is to attach a new hose, this is going to be no big deal at all.
Hose replacements is my thought too. If it wears through and I need to replace it once per year that would be fine with me. If there is a little rub at full lock I am ok with that because the only time the car is at full lock is in parking lot situations .....mine is not a DD and I try to avoid parking lots

I flattened / ovalized one of the hoses yesterday and it appears this is the route I will be taking. Weather is supposed to be cold again this week and I loose motivation when it is below freezing outside I will fire up the heater in the garage and most likely work on it again next weekend.

-Matt
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Old 02-26-2014, 12:51 AM   #167
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The screen worked out great! Thanks for the suggestion! I used 3mm X 6Mmm aluminum rivets and painted everything black.
I was thinking about a mesh too, but the description from the Pegasus site says 63% open space which is cutting the brake duct intake by quite a bit.

Looking at the bumper's lower facia grill, doesn't seem anything major can get in. Still sitting on the fence for this one.
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Old 02-26-2014, 07:56 AM   #168
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I was thinking about a mesh too, but the description from the Pegasus site says 63% open space which is cutting the brake duct intake by quite a bit.

Looking at the bumper's lower facia grill, doesn't seem anything major can get in. Still sitting on the fence for this one.
I don't think that means that 37% of the air goes away somehow. At speed, it will be high pressure air around the grill. My guess is that it will just whistle a little faster around the wires. But I am not an engineer.
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Old 02-28-2014, 04:43 PM   #169
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Started to install the quantum kit earlier on my 14 but the caliper bolts would not ncome out on either side. Both me and my dad tried with a 20" breaker bar to get them loose but nothing. I was thinking of adding heat, maybe they are'frozen' on since it's 25* in the garage. Any ideas?
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Old 02-28-2014, 05:10 PM   #170
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If you put heat to the bolts, REPLACE THEM!
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Old 02-28-2014, 05:31 PM   #171
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FYI: All GM caliper bolts are TTY

Most GM service department re-use caliper bolts. I see them re-used track-side all the time. I like to replace them, but if I can't get my hands on new TTY caliper bolts I use LocTite. I have seen the results of a caliper coming loose at high speed. The caliper came loose, wedged between spokes and clevis, then sheared the clevis . The wheel wedged flat under the car and caused it to roll. It is a miracle the driver walked away.

LocTite and German spec gudentight or new TTY bolts torqued to GM spec.
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Old 02-28-2014, 06:04 PM   #172
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If you put heat to the bolts, REPLACE THEM!
I didn't do that, just tried to hulk it with the breaker bar then gave up and put the ducts in the grille.
I'm going to try again in the morning, if I don't get it I have 2 months of work travel until I can go at it again.
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Old 03-06-2014, 08:17 AM   #173
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Well, that didn't work. Routing the 3 inch hose over top of the sway bar and inside of the front end link just results in the hose getting crushed. Hole in the top already after one month of driving around. See pic.

I am going to re-route the hose on the outside of the end link instead, and then route it around the inside of the fender liner. So, in the pic below, the hose will go to the left of the endlink rather than to the right where it currently goes. Have been testing it out and it looks like there will be no rubbing even with wheels fully turned. Will post some pics when done.

Here is pic of old setup where hose gets crushed. Heads up, this might be you too.
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Old 03-06-2014, 08:55 AM   #174
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Here it is re-routed. This is with OEM 8 inch rims. Even though it looks like it is close in the second pic, it's not close to the tire at all - easily 2-3 inches there at full wheel lock. Strapped it to the sway bar and then attached it to the back of the fender liner. Looks great, no rubbing anticipated and no crushing. Sorry for crappy cell phone pix.
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Old 03-06-2014, 09:44 AM   #175
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The first setup worked. The revised setup is new and improved ;-)
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