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Old 01-29-2014, 05:46 PM   #120
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Electrical working

Small progress - got all the wiring done. The ACS folks suggest just cutting the OEM DRL wires and attaching their connector to the end, but I hate trying to work in very constrained spaces, so I wired up a small connector that plugs in where the OEM DRL plug used to go, and the other end is the WeatherPack connector that ACS supplied. Note that you need a special WeatherPack crimping tool to get the spears onto the wires correctly. Would not have wanted to try it with pliers. All looks good. Still waiting for warmer weather to cut the bumper and glue the new ducts in. Maybe this weekend.
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Old 01-29-2014, 06:41 PM   #121
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Looking good.
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Old 01-31-2014, 09:21 PM   #122
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Cutting the holes

Got tired of waiting for good weather, so started cutting the holes in the bumper. The templates that come with the T4 kits are atrocious - off by a lot. I guess that's why the instructions say to cut 1/4 inch smaller than the template outline and then do the rest of the fitting a bit at a time. Cut with a dremel, and then with a box cutter for the finer work of shaving it bigger. Used a small orbital sander to get the edges even. Will still have some final tweaking to do when the bumper is off and I can easily get at both sides. But the best thing I did to get the hole in the right spot is put the inside piece up against the back of the bumper, to see where it should fit.

Hard to make the first cut. Just kept thinking, "wow, I could be ruining a perfectly good bumper here". Just had to keep going and it turned out good, I think.
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Old 02-01-2014, 04:29 PM   #123
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I finally got around to installing my JDP Quantum kit! The install was pretty straight forward with the help from studying the pics posted here and on other threads. Removed the front clip in 1/2 hour, installed the heat shields in 1/2 hour , the duct inlets took about an hour. Thankfully the whole assembly can be removed from the front end with 4 plastic fasteners! The hose routing was easy and I routed it like the pictures from JDP. Here's some pics.

For the OP, I highly recommend this kit! It's easy to install and reasonably priced!
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Old 02-01-2014, 09:52 PM   #124
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Nice work Mike. Looks good. I take it your back is feeling better. I'll PM you in the next day or two with what I've come up with for a Watkins Glen schedule.
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Old 02-01-2014, 11:24 PM   #125
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Nice work Mike. Looks good. I take it your back is feeling better. I'll PM you in the next day or two with what I've come up with for a Watkins Glen schedule.
Yep, feeling better! I'll be looking for your PM!
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Old 02-02-2014, 12:20 PM   #126
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Bonding in T4 ports

Well, I don't think I was cut out to be a body man. Boy this has been a PITA. Got the T4 ports glued in, now just waiting for everything to set. But it sure is different than working with nuts and bolts. If you ever consider doing this, some suggestions:

- The ACS paper template for where the holes go is pretty much worthless.
- Do not do what I did: cut the holes while the bumper is on the car. I was wrong about where the holes went, but luckily had enough bumper material left to get the holes expanded in the right place without it being obvious from the outside. Whew. If you do it with the bumper off the car, you can check with the back piece much more effectively, to make sure you're getting it right.
- Actually clamping down the outer and inner pieces in exactly the right spot takes more skill than I have (and may be a two-man job). I did several dry runs and couldn't do it - the pieces kept shifting around. So, I used some JB Weld to epoxy in the outer (front) piece in place, just at the top, so that it wouldn't move when clamping. Worked great.
- Since the top was epoxied in place, only had to clamp the bottom.
- Note the inner unit is not actually glued to the bumper - it's glued to the outer unit, as per ACS instructions. That way you can fix the gaps between the outer piece and the bumper by shimming from the inside to push the bumper up against the outer unit.
- ACS suggests 12 minute working time for the adhesive, but at about 60 degree outdoor temp in the sunshine, my test piece is still goey after half an hour.

My bumper has easily 50+ rock dings in it so I wasn't super concerned about this looking perfect, but it will honestly look pretty good (from more than 3 feet away it will look damn near perfect, except one nasty scratch from a utility knife... sigh).
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Old 02-02-2014, 02:32 PM   #127
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Looks like a lot of work but it'll look great when you're done! Can't wait to see it finished!
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Old 02-04-2014, 09:26 PM   #128
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Lookin good SSSOON.
More progress pics.
Damn cold weather. No way I was getting 24 hours at 70+ degrees for the glue to set, so I made a tent out of a ladder and a tarp and put a heater in front of the bumper, under there. Kinda made it room temp in there. Am giving it an extra day or two to set, just in case. Last thing I want is for the glue to fail to bond and the pieces fall apart when I start shimming.
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Old 02-05-2014, 09:50 PM   #129
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Finished

All done! Pix below. Overall very happy with this. A lot of work, but I like the look and I am happy that I did not drain off air from the main grille area (because I have an extra rad in there for the supercharger plus a big oil cooler and need all the air in the grille area to cool that stuff).

Suggestions to anyone wanting to do this:

- the ACS T4 ports I received were not well finished at the point where the external port snugs up against the bumper. I did as much shimming as possible to get bumper up against the port, but in spots the port is not level and so there's nothing you can do. Looks fine from 3 feet away. Closer inspection, meh. But it's not a show car, it's a track car.

- I bought a 10-foot section of 3" neoprene duct. It turned out to be pretty much exactly the right length. If it had been 1" shorter per side, it would not have reached. Counting myself lucky here.

- The downward sloping vents out of the back of the ducts was exactly the right solution to getting the hose pointing in the right direction. If I had not done that and just had put the funnel pointing back horizontally, would have run into problems at the fender liner I think.

- I used someone else's idea for securing it, heavy duty velcro loops. That way it (hopefully) won't rub through the hose.

- There is a bolt on my front endlinks that is damn close to the hose. Dunno if it will rub through. I may get under there and add some padding and duct tape just in case. Not sure how others got around this.

- Running the hose over the sway bar and under the tie rod looks great when it's up in the air, but when the suspension is at rest the round cross-section of the hose gets compressed to being a little oval-shaped. I wonder what happens when I hit a bump. Did anyone try a different routing that worked? Has anyone tried this routing (over the sway) and run it a few months to see what it looks like after some wear and tear? Wondering if this will become a problem over time.

- The ACS light bars inside the T4 ports are really bright and shine all over the place. I would not want to be driving down the road at night with these on all the time. Would piss off oncoming traffic for sure. Luckily I put in a harness and a switch so I rarely drive with my fogs on. Daytime would be fine - these would just add a little light accent. But won't run them at night unless I need fog lights.
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Old 02-06-2014, 06:22 AM   #130
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Great job SSoon! Looks fantastic and functional too!
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Old 02-06-2014, 12:12 PM   #131
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SSSoon View Post

- Running the hose over the sway bar and under the tie rod looks great when it's up in the air, but when the suspension is at rest the round cross-section of the hose gets compressed to being a little oval-shaped. I wonder what happens when I hit a bump. Did anyone try a different routing that worked? Has anyone tried this routing (over the sway) and run it a few months to see what it looks like after some wear and tear? Wondering if this will become a problem over time.
Check out my description and photos of how I routed the hose in post # 85 of this thread (page 4). No issues with interference or rubbing with the suspension and out of the way of the 20 X 10 1LE front wheels and tires even with the wheels turned to the stops.
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Old 02-06-2014, 12:42 PM   #132
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SSSoon View Post
All done! Pix below. Overall very happy with this. A lot of work, but I like the look and I am happy that I did not drain off air from the main grille area (because I have an extra rad in there for the supercharger plus a big oil cooler and need all the air in the grille area to cool that stuff).

Suggestions to anyone wanting to do this:

- the ACS T4 ports I received were not well finished at the point where the external port snugs up against the bumper. I did as much shimming as possible to get bumper up against the port, but in spots the port is not level and so there's nothing you can do. Looks fine from 3 feet away. Closer inspection, meh. But it's not a show car, it's a track car.

- I bought a 10-foot section of 3" neoprene duct. It turned out to be pretty much exactly the right length. If it had been 1" shorter per side, it would not have reached. Counting myself lucky here.

- The downward sloping vents out of the back of the ducts was exactly the right solution to getting the hose pointing in the right direction. If I had not done that and just had put the funnel pointing back horizontally, would have run into problems at the fender liner I think.

- I used someone else's idea for securing it, heavy duty velcro loops. That way it (hopefully) won't rub through the hose.

- There is a bolt on my front endlinks that is damn close to the hose. Dunno if it will rub through. I may get under there and add some padding and duct tape just in case. Not sure how others got around this.

- Running the hose over the sway bar and under the tie rod looks great when it's up in the air, but when the suspension is at rest the round cross-section of the hose gets compressed to being a little oval-shaped. I wonder what happens when I hit a bump. Did anyone try a different routing that worked? Has anyone tried this routing (over the sway) and run it a few months to see what it looks like after some wear and tear? Wondering if this will become a problem over time.

- The ACS light bars inside the T4 ports are really bright and shine all over the place. I would not want to be driving down the road at night with these on all the time. Would piss off oncoming traffic for sure. Luckily I put in a harness and a switch so I rarely drive with my fogs on. Daytime would be fine - these would just add a little light accent. But won't run them at night unless I need fog lights.
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Old 02-06-2014, 03:49 PM   #133
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Check out my description and photos of how I routed the hose in post # 85 of this thread (page 4). No issues with interference or rubbing with the suspension and out of the way of the 20 X 10 1LE front wheels and tires even with the wheels turned to the stops.
I spent a lot of time looking at your pics before I did my routing. I think you have a slightly different setup; I tried routing it over the flexible rubber boot as you did, which leads it to the engine side of the body-colored sheet metal. Once I am in there, there is no way out for me. Maybe it is because I have a JRE CAI scoop, or the extra crap from the supercharger, but it is incredibly tight and complicated on the engine side of the sheet metal. Remember that I have to come back to the outside of that body-colored sheet metal in order to connect to my air ducts. I think if you are running off the typical spots just left and right of the radiator, you do not have to go back to the outside of the sheet metal. (rats)

Quote:
Originally Posted by HRD_WRK View Post
Looks nice SSSOON- thanks for the updates.

Thanks again for all your PM support on the AutoX wheel setup also-much appreciated.

Tim
No probs Tim! Glad the info was useful, man. Pete
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Old 02-07-2014, 12:01 PM   #134
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Great thread
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Standard mods: cam, headers, cai..........etc

modifications: http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=332717

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Old 02-07-2014, 02:24 PM   #135
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A few other things occurred to me:

- Surface prep is vital. ACS recommends washing areas with 50/50 water / isopropyl alcohol, which I did. But on my test piece (scrap bumper material) I did not and the stuff popped off with very little effort after curing 24 hours. Yikes.

- I used lined hose clamps on all four ends (like regular hose clamps but they have a long metal extension on the inside so that the teeth never touch the hose, i.e. won't rip it while you are tightening.

Now I need to figure out some way to block off the ducts for when I am bedding brakes. I am thinking of some kind of rubber material (like a doormat or maybe a piece of that flexible plastic commercial baseboard material you can get at Lowe's) cut to size to fit in the front openings. Would tuck nicely behind the yellow horizontal bar in the middle of the unit, and push up against the screen.
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Old 02-07-2014, 02:48 PM   #136
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Quote:
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Now I need to figure out some way to block off the ducts for when I am bedding brakes. I am thinking of some kind of rubber material (like a doormat or maybe a piece of that flexible plastic commercial baseboard material you can get at Lowe's) cut to size to fit in the front openings. Would tuck nicely behind the yellow horizontal bar in the middle of the unit, and push up against the screen.
Why don't you just use painters tape. I did that on the vents on my hood when I was doing temperature comparisons to determine the effectiveness of heat extraction. You aren't going to be driving that fast that the tape will come off.
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