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Old 10-23-2012, 04:12 PM   #76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris-HPS View Post
The max power using a stock pump is around the 550rwhp pump with a supercharger. The supercharger takes some HP as well to make the HP so generally a supercharged car will require more fuel than a turbo for the same hp.
I'm at 573 RWHP on stock pump, with no BAP and #66 injectors with the Vortech V3 complete kit with no drop in AFR or FP at WOT.

Just sayin

Granted, I will upgrade my fuel system before adding more power.
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Old 10-23-2012, 04:12 PM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris-HPS View Post

The max power using a stock pump is around the 550rwhp pump with a supercharger. The supercharger takes some HP as well to make the HP so generally a supercharged car will require more fuel than a turbo for the same hp. I know you said you have a BAP, are you sure it is operating properly under boost?



I noticed in your signature Janetty built the car. Have you called Ted and talked with him about this as well?



Chris
Yes the stock pump is good to 550 which was dropping to 48psi. My problem is the fastlane which should be an upgrade even over the zl1 pump is also dropping to 48psi. I have disconnected the bap with the fastlane pump but even connected it was dropping.

I leaving Ted out of this because I purchased from a forum member and it's a pump he doesn't carry.

Fastlane does say it's a plug and play.

Last edited by nyny69; 10-23-2012 at 04:28 PM.
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Old 10-23-2012, 04:38 PM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WheelmanSS View Post
I'm at 573 RWHP on stock pump, with no BAP and #66 injectors with the Vortech V3 complete kit with no drop in AFR or FP at WOT.

Just sayin

Granted, I will upgrade my fuel system before adding more power.

That is awesome!

Chris
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Old 10-23-2012, 04:40 PM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nyny69 View Post
Yes the stock pump is good to 550 which was dropping to 48psi. My problem is the fastlane which should be an upgrade even over the zl1 pump is also dropping to 48psi. I have disconnected the bap with the fastlane pump but even connected it was dropping.

I leaving Ted out of this because I purchased from a forum member and it's a pump he doesn't carry.

Fastlane does say it's a plug and play.

If your dropping pressure even with a BAP, you have another issue. What is your Voltage doing under WOT. If your voltage is dropping your pump output will follow.

EDIT: to the original poster sorry to hijack the thread.

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Old 10-23-2012, 04:41 PM   #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WheelmanSS View Post
I'm at 573 RWHP on stock pump, with no BAP and #66 injectors with the Vortech V3 complete kit with no drop in AFR or FP at WOT.

Just sayin

Granted, I will upgrade my fuel system before adding more power.
I wonder if my BAP is not working?

How can I check?

Measuring my fuel pressure from the OBD and WITH the bap it drops to 48psi.
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Old 10-23-2012, 04:49 PM   #81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris-HPS View Post
If your dropping pressure even with a BAP, you have another issue. What is your Voltage doing under WOT. If your voltage is dropping your pump output will follow.

EDIT: to the original poster sorry to hijack the thread.

Chris
That I will have to check. I'm using the SCT to log so it's trial and error finding the correct pid.

It just doesn't make sense to me.
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Old 10-23-2012, 04:57 PM   #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PQ View Post
I wonder if my BAP is not working?

How can I check?

Measuring my fuel pressure from the OBD and WITH the bap it drops to 48psi.

Unhook your BAP. If you get the same results its not working. Do you have it wired to be on all the time or does it come on with boost?

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Old 10-23-2012, 04:58 PM   #83
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Originally Posted by nyny69 View Post
That I will have to check. I'm using the SCT to log so it's trial and error finding the correct pid.

It just doesn't make sense to me.

I agree, you something going on.

Chris
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Old 10-23-2012, 05:06 PM   #84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris-HPS View Post
Unhook your BAP. If you get the same results its not working. Do you have it wired to be on all the time or does it come on with boost?

Chris
Mine comes on when the pressure goes possitive.
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Old 10-23-2012, 06:36 PM   #85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris-HPS View Post
I agree, you something going on.

Chris
And your help was appreciated. From what I understand the fastlane pump is a modified cts-v pump. Same pump LPE uses minus the fpcm and other goodies. It has 3 settings as far as speed idle, medium and wot. When I first jump on the gas, pressure does rise to 64 psi (this is due to the cts-v regulator) but then falls on it's face. I thought maybe adding the cts-v fpcm would help but was told no.

Voltage should stay at 12.5-12.8 from what I read. I will try to find a pid to monitor that. I posted because I'm no expert on it and am looking for other things to possibly check.

EDIT: I could be wrong with the above assumptions

Last edited by nyny69; 10-23-2012 at 07:23 PM.
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Old 10-23-2012, 10:29 PM   #86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PQ View Post
I wonder if my BAP is not working?

How can I check?

Measuring my fuel pressure from the OBD and WITH the bap it drops to 48psi.
Do you have a voltmeter? You could check the wire harness to see if it is feeding power?
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Old 10-23-2012, 10:32 PM   #87
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Quote:
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Do you have a voltmeter? You could check the wire harness to see if it is feeding power?
But wouldn't I have to do that under boost?
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Old 10-24-2012, 05:23 AM   #88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PQ
Quote:

Originally Posted by KRich2587

Pulse width modulation computer sends a duty cycle to the pump that's how the pressure is controlled


Posted from Camaro5.com App for Android

Ok. So it's a standard and unchanging process.



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Old 10-24-2012, 08:40 AM   #89
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Quote:
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But wouldn't I have to do that under boost?
Regardless, I think you would still see nominal voltage. A voltmeter can display an open circuit, so as long as you're not getting a "0.00" reading, it should give you an idea.

I've used voltmeters to detect far less amounts of current just to ensure a device was providing power.

I'm a noob to BAP. Is it exposed? Would you be able to throw some revs while someone holds the voltmeter to the leads?
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Old 10-24-2012, 11:31 AM   #90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WheelmanSS View Post
Regardless, I think you would still see nominal voltage. A voltmeter can display an open circuit, so as long as you're not getting a "0.00" reading, it should give you an idea.

I've used voltmeters to detect far less amounts of current just to ensure a device was providing power.

I'm a noob to BAP. Is it exposed? Would you be able to throw some revs while someone holds the voltmeter to the leads?
Not sure if I can get into boost while stationary. I guess I could have my son lay in the back seat to the trunk while I drive into boost and let him measure it.
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Old 10-24-2012, 11:38 AM   #91
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Old 10-24-2012, 12:04 PM   #92
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Old 10-24-2012, 10:14 PM   #93
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I see.... Well,



If you have a voltmeter handy, might be worth a shot.
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Old 12-02-2012, 08:36 PM   #94
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Fitted my ZL1 pump today by making a inspection plate under the seat

So first up I want to thank Mannys2SS for the excellent post that inspired me to cut a hole in my floor.

I got all the necessary pieces together:

Piece of aluminum checker plate to make trap door
Double-sided adhesive rubber weather strip (to between edge of hole and trap door)
Small hex head tek screws
Fuel sender lock tool
Air-operated nibbler
Tin snips
7.5" plate (to draw around to create hole)
8.5" plate (to draw around checker plate to cut out trap door)

First up I removed the bottom of the back seat (won't go into detail, plenty of threads explaining this)

Disconnect battery

Then I found a plastic plate a home that was 7.5" round that I could align using Manny's pics and draw around with a sharpie.



Then I held the end of the fuel lock tool though the adjoining loom hole in under the floor where I was about to drill the hole (to protect everything as I drilled)



I then went through with the air nibbler and tin snips and carefully cut my hole.

BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING ELSE HERE, VACUUM OVER AND OVER, BLOW OUT WITH COMPRESSED AIR, VACUUM AGAIN, INSPECT CAREFULLY WITH A FLASH LIGHT TO ENSURE THERE ARE NO PIECES OF METAL FILINGS THAT COULD FALL INTO THE FUEL TANK.

From there, I used the larger plate to draw the 8.5" circle onto the checker plate.

Once I'd cut it out, I laid it over the hole, aligning it and then marking the areas with a sharpie that needed to be reshaped.

Once that fitted nicely it was time to remove the old fuel pump.

I put a aluminum roasting tray next to the hole, ready to put the pump into to catch the fuel. Also had plenty of rags and fire extinguisher at the ready.

Remove the top loom plug and the top hose. (Ready to catch fuel in rag).

Use fuel sender removal tool to loosen locking ring and carefully lift out.

CAREFULLY lift out pump. YOU'LL NEED TO TIP IT GENTLY SIDEWAYS TO GET THE FUEL GAUGE FLOAT PAST THE TANK, THEN THE SAME WITH THE BOTTOM HOSE.

LET FUEL DRAIN OUT AS YOU LIFT PUMP OUT AND PUT INTO METAL TRAY AND TAKE OUT OF CAR.

REFIT NEW PUMP IN REVERSE ORDER ... MAKING SURE PIPES, LOOM, LOCKING RING ARE ALL SECURE.

ONCE THE NEW PUMP WAS IN AND SEALED, I THEN SQUIRTED SOME BOTTLED WATER DOWN AROUND THE HOLE TO WASH AWAY ANY EXCESS FUEL AND BLEW DRY WITH COMPRESSED AIR.

I then applied the double sided rubber weather shield tape to the trap door and stuck in place over hole.

Then using the shortest hex head tek screws I could find, carefully screwed in place. I checked for gaps around the edge ... all good!

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Old 12-02-2012, 09:06 PM   #95
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Old 12-02-2012, 10:27 PM   #96
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Square hole is a lot easier and more room, And no special tool needed to remove pump. Just a chisel and hammer. Cut the hole on 3 sides fold back install pump then put a piece of dynamat over it.


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Old 12-02-2012, 10:34 PM   #97
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Quote:
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Square hole is a lot easier and more room, And no special tool needed to remove pump. Just a chisel and hammer. Cut the hole on 3 sides fold back install pump then put a piece of dynamat over it.


Round hole was easy to do and allowed plenty of room. I went for checker plate so that once it was screwed back in, it provided a more rigid installation.

Bottom line is that it retains higher structural integrity with round hole and checker plate.
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Last edited by simon.w; 12-02-2012 at 11:04 PM.
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Old 12-03-2012, 02:24 PM   #98
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Awesome job guys!! It just makes changing out the pump a breeze.
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Old 12-03-2012, 04:11 PM   #99
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Quote:
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.

What's that scarey looking stuff on the top of your fuel pump tank. Is that? Could that be? Dirt???????

Have you driven your camaro on an unsealed road??????? Gravel maybe???? Or snow??????

I think you need to remove your subframe and rear end just so you can detail the top of your gas tank!

Don't you know that Camaro's are only meant to be driven on black top on sunny days!

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Old 12-03-2012, 08:54 PM   #100
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What's that scarey looking stuff on the top of your fuel pump tank. Is that? Could that be? Dirt???????

Have you driven your camaro on an unsealed road??????? Gravel maybe???? Or snow??????

I think you need to remove your subframe and rear end just so you can detail the top of your gas tank!

Don't you know that Camaro's are only meant to be driven on black top on sunny days!

Not had a big rain in awhile, So the under carriage is a little dirty. Next big rain and a nice flooded road and I'll' get it all shined up.
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