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Old 10-22-2012, 03:25 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dexman1349 View Post
Also forgot to ask, if I replace the front & rear sway bars, how critical is it to also upgrade the end links? I'd hate to upgrade something only to break something else...
With the Pedders bars it is required, this is the reason that they are sold as a kit.
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Old 10-22-2012, 03:26 PM   #19
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From what I can tell, the Pedder's "Camaro Bush Kit Street" has the same items as the BMR "Total Suspension Bushing Kit", but the Pedder's is more than double the cost ($499 vs $1045). Am I missing something?
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Old 10-22-2012, 03:36 PM   #20
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This is list of what is included in that kit.
The quality and fit of the bushings that Pedders offers is very high quality.
The urethane used is a much higher cost, and the molding process is much more difficult/expensive to achieve the uniformity and consistency that Pedders bushings achieve.
Pedders bushings when properly installed will not make noise, and will not need to be 'relubed' over time.
  • Pedders EP2112 Steering Rack Bushing x 1
  • Pedders EP6578 Radius Arm Bushing Insert x 1
  • Pedders EP1200 Subframe Bushing Inserts - Stage 1 x 1
  • Pedders EP1167 Diff Bushings - Stage1 x 1
  • Pedders EP7264 Rear LCA Inner Bushings x 1
  • Pedders EP7323 Rear Link Bushings Kits x 3
  • Pedders EP7265 Rear Trailing Arm - Forward x 1
  • Pedders EP7322 Rear Upper Arm Bushings x 1
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Old 10-22-2012, 03:58 PM   #21
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Cool, thank you Rob. That's a big help.

Parts list so far:
Front & rear sways (not sure on brand yet, but leaning towards BMR due to price & adjustability)
End Links (If necessary)
Pedders Street 1 kit

So, what other bushings/inserts would be worthwhile? I'm thinking the differential and steering rack mounts, or possibly upgrading engine mounts.
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Old 10-22-2012, 04:07 PM   #22
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one thing to keep in mind with the sway bars is the ratio

Some companies have very large hollow front bars, while the solid bar of a smaller diameter produces the same forces.

On the rear we offer 3 options, this is due to the different requirements of various customers.

From the 27mm rear to the 32mm ZL1 style bar that comes with new lower arms to accommodate the new style sway bar links that are required,

The ratios that we currently offer are due to hundreds of hours of testing and improvements that we have made over time.

i can give you good reasons to replace most of the bushings in the back of the car, it would depend on your goals and how you drive the car mostly.
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Old 10-22-2012, 05:25 PM   #23
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I would say 80% of my driving is setting the cruise control at 60 on my way to work. However, I do take weekend trips up to the mountains and like to open things up a bit. I don't go to the track except to watch others race (I just can't afford the tires).

Just because I don't use every HP for every second behind the wheel doesn't mean I want to "waste" the HP through soft or loose connections. I want as much HP from the engine put to the wheels, and I also want to firmly plant all 4 tires on the ground as fast as I can around the corners.

On the flip side, I have a wife, kids, and a mortgage payment, so I don't have a ton of $ available to do all that I want. That being said, I want to maximize the gains from the upgrades I do get done. I want the nicer things, but not necessarily the best (unless it's cost effective to do so).

Also, since this is my daily driver, I don't want to go over the top with upgrades because I want to maintain as much warranty as possible. I don't want to end up without a car because I upgraded something that will cause me expensive problems later (including the need to upgrade other components to accomodate the upgrades already done).

Sorry if this answers your question without answering your question, but I really don't know where else to start.
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Old 10-22-2012, 05:29 PM   #24
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That is another thing about the Pedders parts, they are GMPP approved, so they won't affect your warranty.

Let me see what i can put together for you, i'll pm you later
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Old 10-23-2012, 12:09 AM   #25
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I currently have Pfadt sway bars and springs with stock endlinks for over 20,000 miles. My shocks aren't happy and my suspension rattles. I am switching to Pedders XA coilovers around xmas and the street 1z bush kit. Pedders is very high quality and you won't find complaints, top notch customer service which you are finding out. It costs more but remember you get what you pay for and it's cheaper to pay more first then have to do it twice like me.
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Old 10-23-2012, 10:07 AM   #26
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Dexman.....we are in the same boat as far as being daily driver, family, house/car payments, only do occassional racing on spirited driving. With that being said I'll tell you that I couldn't afford to do all those upgrades at once. I did them in steps. My suspension is a mix a brands and parts because I got deals on things or found sales or whatever.

If I were you I would just start out with a couple things and then slowly build on them. I would definately recommend the Pedders Street Z kit to start. That will get you the foundation. Then you could do springs to lower the car some. I think coilovers are the best way to go but I couldn't afford them right away so I bought springs, saved up for about a year or so, bought some coilovers, and then sold my springs for about 60% of what I paid.

I got a real good deal on LSR swaybars but never upgraded the end links. No issues there but I kept the setting on medium. Now I have the Pedders rear 32mm rear bar with the new FE4 style lower control arms and Pedders drop links on the way. I'll still keep the front LSR bar for now but eventually will either upgrade to Pedders front or probably just use the stock 1LE front bar with the new style end links. I can then sell my LSR bars for 50%-60% of what I paid which will almost pay for the front swaybar upgrade.

When I took my car drag racing for the first time I learned right off the bat I needed Trailing Arms. I really should've upgraded the Toe Rods at the same time but didn't have the money to inlcude the rods plus get an alignment. Now, almost 3 yrs later I'm just now going to upgrade the Toe Rods when I do my FE5 rear suspension upgrade.

Point to all of that is that you don't have to buy everything at once and only go with kit. You can put things together little by little.

If you can afford it, yes, buying a kit from a single Mfg would probably be best because they will have tested and optimized all their parts to work together. I'm just saying that IMO that's not a mandatory way of doing it.
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Old 10-23-2012, 10:14 AM   #27
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Caverman I'm in the same boat, going to get bushings little at a time but the street z package is first on the list. Have Pfadt springs and sways and the sways are good enough for awhile. Springs are going down the road and hopefully my budget will let me get the xa coilovers.


Good advice
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Old 10-23-2012, 10:37 AM   #28
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Thanks for the tips.

My only hesitation on the springs/coilovers is the fact that I have to climb a curb to get into my garage and I have a bad habit of scraping the underside of my bumper on wheel stops. If I drop the car 1" I am no longer scraping, I'd be crunching. Besides, I prefer the look of a consistent sized gap between the fender and tire.
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Old 10-23-2012, 10:39 AM   #29
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I'm down at 1.25 and I don't crunch parking blocks, scrape them yes. That's why coilovers are worth it, ou can adjust the height and have a great ride or comparable to stock
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Old 10-23-2012, 11:15 AM   #30
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I hear Pedders makes good stuff.
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Old 10-23-2012, 11:55 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dexman1349 View Post
Thanks for the tips.

My only hesitation on the springs/coilovers is the fact that I have to climb a curb to get into my garage and I have a bad habit of scraping the underside of my bumper on wheel stops. If I drop the car 1" I am no longer scraping, I'd be crunching. Besides, I prefer the look of a consistent sized gap between the fender and tire.
When I had 1" drop springs I was able to barely clear curbs. Now I'm about 1.25" or maybe a little more. You have to learn not to pull up all the way to the curb. Stop beforehand or you will smash the lower lip. Teaching my wife to do the same is not so easy though.


I took these of my wife's parking. She didn't see anything wrong with it.

Don't pull up that close to the curb. No need for it. Our cars fit just fine without pulling all the way up. You can see at least 2' or more behind the car and still be able to be in the space.
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Old 10-23-2012, 12:52 PM   #32
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Caverman, what did you think of the LSR sway bar?

When I go for the sway bar, I will get the end links and possibly upgrade the end link mounting bracket. For $700 I can get BMR front & rear adjustable sways and end links. LSR has basically the same thing for just over $600, except their sways are much stiffer. Either way, I would probably get the BMR end link mounting brace for $50.

I'm finding Trailing arms and toe links starting at $250 (including bushings).

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Old 10-23-2012, 02:41 PM   #33
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I hear Pedders makes good stuff.
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Old 10-23-2012, 03:04 PM   #34
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Personally, if you're going to spend that much for swaybars and end links I would recommend that you look the ZL1 conversion kit from Pedders for $750. This will convert you over to what is supposed to be a much more balanced setup by using the new FE4 lower control arms. This is basically what I'm doing except that I can't afford the whole package so I'm only doing the rear for now and when money allows I'll do the fronts. So, can't give you real world feedback on it yet until I get them installed hopefully in the next couple weeks.
https://secure.merlinsoftware.com.au...AMAROSWAYCONV1

If you're going to spend that kind of money, you should really look at upgrading to the FE4/FE5 suspension instead of just sticking with the FE3 style.

Sounds like Pfadt's new ZL1 Spec bars are a great new FE4 style bar as well. However, the cost to convert our '10 over is closer to the $825 range for their turn key package.

As for the LSR bars.....I don't really have any good or bad to say. I didn't feel some unbelievable difference in my car. Then again I only have them set to the middle setting so that I wouldn't break my Lower Control Arm tabs that seem to be common on the '10 with the stiffest setting. This is another reason to go with the FE5 rear setup....you get the new style LCA that shouldn't crack the connection point. I also live in the flat land called TX. Not alot of twisty roads and hills to test them out on. The only time I really get a chance to push the car is at an AutoX event and I only do those a couple times a year. Surely they have to help over the stock bars though but I don't know that you'll feel some night and day difference unless you upgrade everything and set it to the stiffest setting.

If you really want to squeeze your money you can talk to Pete about getting just the rear setup with the new LCA, Pedders drop links, and 32mm bar and then go pick up a stock 1LE/ZL1 front bar with '12-'13 stock front end links which are supposed to be thicker that our '10 endlinks. I think you will have to drill out your bolt wholes for the front end links though. I believe I read that '10 stock bolts are 10mm and '12-'13 bolts are 12mm. So, installation will be a little trickier than by just buying Pedders full kit but you can probably save yourself about $200.

As for Trailing Arms/Toe Rods.....go take a look at Jegs for some BMR ones. I just picked up a set of Toe Rods shipped to my door for $113 ($99 + shipping). You could probably call BMR and have them match the Jegs price. They all come dropshipped from BMR anyway.

I will say that I without a doubt that I felt a difference after installing the Pedders Street Z package. Much firmer feel in the rear end. To me that's a must do.

Don't forget about making sure you get a good Alignment to the specs that either Pedders or Pfadt puts out. That should really help alot as well.
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