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Old 10-22-2012, 02:01 PM   #15
Dexman1349
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cavernman, thanks for the link that was very helpful. The only challenge is finding what's included within the pedder's kits.

The BMR kit includes:
  • Front & rear sway bars
  • Lowering springs
  • Total Suspension bushing kit
    • Rear cradle
    • differential
    • rear trailing arm
    • rear upper control arm
    • steering rack mount
    • front lower control arm
    • front radius rod
I'd like to see what's in the pedders kits for a more apples-to-apples comparison. The descriptions for the packages on the Raymonds site only really talk about what the kit does, not what it contains.
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Old 10-22-2012, 02:20 PM   #16
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Also forgot to ask, if I replace the front & rear sway bars, how critical is it to also upgrade the end links? I'd hate to upgrade something only to break something else...
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Old 10-22-2012, 02:20 PM   #17
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I'm sure i can help with giving you a list of what is included.
What kit were you looking at on Raymond's site?
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Old 10-22-2012, 02:25 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dexman1349 View Post
Also forgot to ask, if I replace the front & rear sway bars, how critical is it to also upgrade the end links? I'd hate to upgrade something only to break something else...
With the Pedders bars it is required, this is the reason that they are sold as a kit.
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Old 10-22-2012, 02:26 PM   #19
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From what I can tell, the Pedder's "Camaro Bush Kit Street" has the same items as the BMR "Total Suspension Bushing Kit", but the Pedder's is more than double the cost ($499 vs $1045). Am I missing something?
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Old 10-22-2012, 02:36 PM   #20
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This is list of what is included in that kit.
The quality and fit of the bushings that Pedders offers is very high quality.
The urethane used is a much higher cost, and the molding process is much more difficult/expensive to achieve the uniformity and consistency that Pedders bushings achieve.
Pedders bushings when properly installed will not make noise, and will not need to be 'relubed' over time.
  • Pedders EP2112 Steering Rack Bushing x 1
  • Pedders EP6578 Radius Arm Bushing Insert x 1
  • Pedders EP1200 Subframe Bushing Inserts - Stage 1 x 1
  • Pedders EP1167 Diff Bushings - Stage1 x 1
  • Pedders EP7264 Rear LCA Inner Bushings x 1
  • Pedders EP7323 Rear Link Bushings Kits x 3
  • Pedders EP7265 Rear Trailing Arm - Forward x 1
  • Pedders EP7322 Rear Upper Arm Bushings x 1
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Old 10-22-2012, 02:58 PM   #21
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Cool, thank you Rob. That's a big help.

Parts list so far:
Front & rear sways (not sure on brand yet, but leaning towards BMR due to price & adjustability)
End Links (If necessary)
Pedders Street 1 kit

So, what other bushings/inserts would be worthwhile? I'm thinking the differential and steering rack mounts, or possibly upgrading engine mounts.
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Old 10-22-2012, 03:07 PM   #22
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one thing to keep in mind with the sway bars is the ratio

Some companies have very large hollow front bars, while the solid bar of a smaller diameter produces the same forces.

On the rear we offer 3 options, this is due to the different requirements of various customers.

From the 27mm rear to the 32mm ZL1 style bar that comes with new lower arms to accommodate the new style sway bar links that are required,

The ratios that we currently offer are due to hundreds of hours of testing and improvements that we have made over time.

i can give you good reasons to replace most of the bushings in the back of the car, it would depend on your goals and how you drive the car mostly.
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Old 10-22-2012, 04:25 PM   #23
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I would say 80% of my driving is setting the cruise control at 60 on my way to work. However, I do take weekend trips up to the mountains and like to open things up a bit. I don't go to the track except to watch others race (I just can't afford the tires).

Just because I don't use every HP for every second behind the wheel doesn't mean I want to "waste" the HP through soft or loose connections. I want as much HP from the engine put to the wheels, and I also want to firmly plant all 4 tires on the ground as fast as I can around the corners.

On the flip side, I have a wife, kids, and a mortgage payment, so I don't have a ton of $ available to do all that I want. That being said, I want to maximize the gains from the upgrades I do get done. I want the nicer things, but not necessarily the best (unless it's cost effective to do so).

Also, since this is my daily driver, I don't want to go over the top with upgrades because I want to maintain as much warranty as possible. I don't want to end up without a car because I upgraded something that will cause me expensive problems later (including the need to upgrade other components to accomodate the upgrades already done).

Sorry if this answers your question without answering your question, but I really don't know where else to start.
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Old 10-22-2012, 04:29 PM   #24
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That is another thing about the Pedders parts, they are GMPP approved, so they won't affect your warranty.

Let me see what i can put together for you, i'll pm you later
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Old 10-22-2012, 11:09 PM   #25
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I currently have Pfadt sway bars and springs with stock endlinks for over 20,000 miles. My shocks aren't happy and my suspension rattles. I am switching to Pedders XA coilovers around xmas and the street 1z bush kit. Pedders is very high quality and you won't find complaints, top notch customer service which you are finding out. It costs more but remember you get what you pay for and it's cheaper to pay more first then have to do it twice like me.
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Old 10-23-2012, 09:07 AM   #26
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Dexman.....we are in the same boat as far as being daily driver, family, house/car payments, only do occassional racing on spirited driving. With that being said I'll tell you that I couldn't afford to do all those upgrades at once. I did them in steps. My suspension is a mix a brands and parts because I got deals on things or found sales or whatever.

If I were you I would just start out with a couple things and then slowly build on them. I would definately recommend the Pedders Street Z kit to start. That will get you the foundation. Then you could do springs to lower the car some. I think coilovers are the best way to go but I couldn't afford them right away so I bought springs, saved up for about a year or so, bought some coilovers, and then sold my springs for about 60% of what I paid.

I got a real good deal on LSR swaybars but never upgraded the end links. No issues there but I kept the setting on medium. Now I have the Pedders rear 32mm rear bar with the new FE4 style lower control arms and Pedders drop links on the way. I'll still keep the front LSR bar for now but eventually will either upgrade to Pedders front or probably just use the stock 1LE front bar with the new style end links. I can then sell my LSR bars for 50%-60% of what I paid which will almost pay for the front swaybar upgrade.

When I took my car drag racing for the first time I learned right off the bat I needed Trailing Arms. I really should've upgraded the Toe Rods at the same time but didn't have the money to inlcude the rods plus get an alignment. Now, almost 3 yrs later I'm just now going to upgrade the Toe Rods when I do my FE5 rear suspension upgrade.

Point to all of that is that you don't have to buy everything at once and only go with kit. You can put things together little by little.

If you can afford it, yes, buying a kit from a single Mfg would probably be best because they will have tested and optimized all their parts to work together. I'm just saying that IMO that's not a mandatory way of doing it.
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Old 10-23-2012, 09:14 AM   #27
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Caverman I'm in the same boat, going to get bushings little at a time but the street z package is first on the list. Have Pfadt springs and sways and the sways are good enough for awhile. Springs are going down the road and hopefully my budget will let me get the xa coilovers.


Good advice
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Old 10-23-2012, 09:37 AM   #28
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Thanks for the tips.

My only hesitation on the springs/coilovers is the fact that I have to climb a curb to get into my garage and I have a bad habit of scraping the underside of my bumper on wheel stops. If I drop the car 1" I am no longer scraping, I'd be crunching. Besides, I prefer the look of a consistent sized gap between the fender and tire.
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