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Old 10-22-2012, 08:14 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by litle88 View Post
On the pistons I bring them to TDC and use seafoam, mineral spirits and a scotch pad "lightly" making sure to wipe it all down towards the bottom of the piston so it falls out of the block.

For the heads since the valves are closed I've used brake cleaner and spray it so nothing gets to the valve springs or down towards the seals. I hope that makes sense.
Thanks man, I really need to clean those pistons and valves. I will consider what you said. Also, The springs and seals are not replaced yet so it should be ok if they get cleaner on them i guess. Once the heads are cleaned, i will install the springs and hardware.

I was really surprised at how much carbon buildup there was on the pistons for 11K miles. Is this normal or related to a bad or aggressive tune? Also, I realize I need a oil catch can and I plan to install one. There is a ton of oil in the intake manifold.
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Old 10-22-2012, 08:16 PM   #27
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Subscribed... You Sir have a couple pumpkins hidden down there!! I tore down a few engines years ago back in the UK, but they were little 4 bangers and hoisted out with 4x4 piece of wood some rope and a mate the other side. learnt as i went along

I would loved to have done mine, but alas i left to GET TORQ to do the business. Have a fairly similar set-up to you Comp cam 223/243 113LSA

Good luck, and I'll be following!!
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Old 10-22-2012, 08:17 PM   #28
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Now is the time to change the oil cooler if you'd like, I hear they leak a lot. Just my .2

I was going to use these guys but my headers are 2" and clearance was "0"! Lol

http://www.improvedracing.com/adapte...6737d59f4f616b

Then I got this one and it was the same lol
http://www.improvedracing.com/adapte...6737d59f4f616b

Food for thought lol
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Old 10-22-2012, 08:27 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markmass View Post
Subscribed... You Sir have a couple pumpkins hidden down there!! I tore down a few engines years ago back in the UK, but they were little 4 bangers and hoisted out with 4x4 piece of wood some rope and a mate the other side. learnt as i went along

I would loved to have done mine, but alas i left to GET TORQ to do the business. Have a fairly similar set-up to you Comp cam 223/243 113LSA

Good luck, and I'll be following!!
Thanks sir! I guess i could have paid someone to do it for me but as I said earlier, I like a new challenge now and then.

Quote:
Originally Posted by litle88 View Post
Now is the time to change the oil cooler if you'd like, I hear they leak a lot. Just my .2

I was going to use these guys but my headers are 2" and clearance was "0"! Lol

http://www.improvedracing.com/adapte...6737d59f4f616b

Then I got this one and it was the same lol
http://www.improvedracing.com/adapte...6737d59f4f616b

Food for thought lol
Oh damn! another upgrade! Lol...thanks for the link. I heard that some folks were having issues.
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Old 10-22-2012, 08:30 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markmass View Post
Subscribed... You Sir have a couple pumpkins hidden down there!! I tore down a few engines years ago back in the UK, but they were little 4 bangers and hoisted out with 4x4 piece of wood some rope and a mate the other side. learnt as i went along

I would loved to have done mine, but alas i left to GET TORQ to do the business. Have a fairly similar set-up to you Comp cam 223/243 113LSA

Good luck, and I'll be following!!
Markmass, How do you like your cam and 3200 stall? Is 3200 sufficient?
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Old 10-22-2012, 08:37 PM   #31
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Haha just throwing it out there bud, hate for you to be like "damn wish I would of known that while it was out".

I've had that happen and kicked my azz about it. For instance I wish I would of gotten a bigger cam now!!! Lol turned out that my cam should of had more exhaust duration cause its at the limit of my intake lol. But hey no I'm gonna wait a lol bit maybe next winter lol.

Not saying you need it just giving you some info I have. I've been collecting info of what I'm going to do in my conversion lol
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Old 10-22-2012, 09:54 PM   #32
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very nice ....
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Old 10-28-2012, 05:01 PM   #33
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Well, I just added 2 photos of the clean pistons. I have to say that cleaning these is the hardest part of this project especially the cavities where the valves go. I am most likely wasting my time cleaning since the carbon will build right back up in no time but it makes me feel better seeing them clean going back in. There is still some crap on the upper section of the cylinder and I removed most of it there but I don't want to get too crazy and scratch the cylinder wall. So this is what I accomplished all weekend. LOL
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Old 10-28-2012, 05:08 PM   #34
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Nice! What did you end up using to clean them?
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Old 10-28-2012, 05:12 PM   #35
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Just curious, but why pull the whole motor? its not needed when doing a conversion.
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Old 10-28-2012, 05:14 PM   #36
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It's what he wanted to do, he felt more comfortable doing it that way since his car will be down til the spring.
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Old 10-28-2012, 05:14 PM   #37
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I used a razor blade and scraped off the thick layer from the flat areas then I used scotch Brite pads along with sea foam but that dint work so well. I then used the pads with Scrubbing Bubbles (bathroom cleaner) to make the really clean. This was all done with piston at TDC and engine rotated on the side to avoid crap from going in the cylinder. I also used a shop vac and contantly vacuumed around the piston area.
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Old 10-28-2012, 05:17 PM   #38
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Just curious, but why pull the whole motor? its not needed when doing a conversion.
Since I had to install a stall converter any way, it was either remove the trans or pull the engine and make everything easy to work on. My buddy offered to lend me his engine lift and stand. I also wanted to be in a good position to install the oil pump and a new oil pan gasket although not really necessary. You cant remove the pan unless you lift the engine few inches.
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Old 10-28-2012, 05:20 PM   #39
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Well i guess it would be easier to work on like that since all you really have to do is take out the trans bolts and two motor mount bolts then pull it out
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Old 10-28-2012, 05:27 PM   #40
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Well i guess it would be easier to work on like that since all you really have to do is take out the trans bolts and two motor mount bolts then pull it out
yeah either way you go there are some challenges. Since I have lots of time to get it done at my own pace, I may as well sit on a bar stool in front of the engine and enjoy the work....(other than the cleaning) LOL Also makes it easy to use a degree wheel and make sure everything lines up right. I think most shops or regular folks don't bother with half of the stuff I'm doing.
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Old 10-31-2012, 08:50 PM   #41
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Alright, I added 3 new photos of the latest progress.

So the VVT cam is out and the new fixed timing cam is in along with a new Katech chain. The ICL turns out to be within half of a degree within spec and the duration for both intake and exhaust is within 1 degree or better so I am pretty happy with the results so far.

Next I need to finish prepping the heads and install them on the block. Will add more pics in the next few days!
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Old 11-01-2012, 04:06 AM   #42
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That's awesome!

Not that hard hu? Are you checking your PTV? It's easy too, I used clay. Just need about 2-3 bolt on the head. No torquing down just a Lil tightening. You got valve reliefs but you know me, cautious and piece of mind lol.
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Old 11-01-2012, 07:15 AM   #43
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That's awesome!

Not that hard hu? Are you checking your PTV? It's easy too, I used clay. Just need about 2-3 bolt on the head. No torquing down just a Lil tightening. You got valve reliefs but you know me, cautious and piece of mind lol.
Not too bad! Once you know what to check, it makes good sense.

Yep, that's the plan to check PtV as well. I was going to use the clay method you mentioned as well as the dial indicator on the spring retainer. I guess one method can be sufficient but I want to go through the excercise.
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Old 11-01-2012, 08:25 AM   #44
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Are you going to tune the engine and transmission? I like this write up keep up the good work.
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Old 11-01-2012, 08:30 AM   #45
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Are you going to tune the engine and transmission? I like this write up keep up the good work.
Yes, I will have it tuned on a dyno. Thanks, glad you like it.
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Old 11-02-2012, 08:28 AM   #46
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Just curious why you pulled the motor to do the LS3 conversion?
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Old 11-02-2012, 08:33 AM   #47
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Just curious why you pulled the motor to do the LS3 conversion?
I'm installing a new torque converter as well so I had to either pull the engine or the trans. Since the engine needed a lot of work, I might as well pull it out and be in a better position to do the work. I also wanted to install a new oil pan gasket which is impossible to do unless you raise the engine several inches. Its so much better to work on the engine this way. I am able to rotate the engine on the stand and get a really good view of what I'm working on.
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Old 11-02-2012, 10:56 AM   #48
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I'm installing a new torque converter as well so I had to either pull the engine or the trans. Since the engine needed a lot of work, I might as well pull it out and be in a better position to do the work. I also wanted to install a new oil pan gasket which is impossible to do unless you raise the engine several inches. Its so much better to work on the engine this way. I am able to rotate the engine on the stand and get a really good view of what I'm working on.
It is easier to pull the engine to do the work as i did all of this and more to my L99, the only difference is i dropped my whole front rolling chassis below the car, it is much easier to drop the motor then to pull it out of the engine bay upwards!
Pretty easy job if you have the time and patience!
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Old 11-02-2012, 12:07 PM   #49
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Wow great to see someone turning wrenches like this. Please keep the pictures coming!
I will be installing a Cam/oil pump/c5R timing set/valve springs this coming spring on my ls3. with the tranmission issues that they are known for I almost wish I got the l99.
Any suggestions for cams? lol
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Old 11-02-2012, 04:04 PM   #50
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Markmass, How do you like your cam and 3200 stall? Is 3200 sufficient?
Sorry mate -- just seen this

The 3200 stall is fine - it really helps --- basically couldn't drive with a stock TC!
I have a pretty aggressive CAM.. GET-TORQ have it for a couple of days (pick up tomorrow) fine tuning and adding J-pipes to the SOLO Mach-XL to deaden the resonator drone at 1800rpm. I have the Torque management turned off, so the gear changes are quick, and noticeable (cant really describe it) anyway they are tinkering with the line pressure to relax the changes in 'D', but aggressive in 'M'. Fuel economy --- errmmm don't ask!! but you will so....on a run I am probably at 17MPG. pure city is probably 8 to 9 - mix is around 12-13. but i probably drive 4k a year, no commute - so no biggie
I get some very light and occasional bucking up to 1400 rpm, its not a problem, and again i am sure the multi-disk TC soaks some of that up (i think??)
Overall - I love it - the sound is perfect - i could get a deck chair, a cold one, and listen to it all day!, the power is just outrageous over stock. I took it to a couple of small shows last week (Sawgrass Ford!!) it attracted a lot of attention particularly when fired up.

Looking forward to the updates!

Cheers
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