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Old 10-22-2012, 07:17 PM   #1
Medi0cr3
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Bank 1 02 sensor wiring issue

I'm pretty sure I've identified that the bank 1 sensor 1 02 sensor wiring pin A to ECU cannon plug pin 57 and pin D to the ECU cannon plug are shorting out somewhere. I identified this with some help from Ted and taking logs and noticing no voltage going to the 02 sensor and out of whack fuel trims on bank 1. I pulled apart both plugs and looked for any dirt debris or anything that could create a contact point between both pins maybe somewhere throughout the length of the wiring harness. After conducting a continuity check on all wires I have noticed an intermittent fault with two wires and a definite short. My plan is to disconnect both pins from both ends and lay in 2 new wires so that I do not even have to mess with tearing apart the wire bundle and causing more issues with the injectors and everything else that is tied in.


My question is, how do you disassemble both cannon plugs to lay in new wires. I know how to sauder wires if required. Much help would be appreciated.
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Old 10-22-2012, 07:32 PM   #2
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Never tried it specifically with these, but usually a tool is required to slip over the pin and unlock the barbs so the pin can be extracted. The tool is a sleeve that inserts over the pin while the wire is pulled upon extracting the pin from the body.

I have found the 02 sensor pigtails & plugs Male & female complete on ebay for our application. I used one to connect an Innovate LC-1 WB to HP Tuners & NB to the ecu.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/05-12-LS2-LS...item53ed33cd63

http://www.ebay.com/itm/05-12-LS2-LS...item53ed33d31b
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Old 10-22-2012, 07:56 PM   #3
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not interested in splicing. I do not want to attenuate the voltage any since it is such a low voltage as it is.

thanks tho!
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Old 10-22-2012, 09:20 PM   #4
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2% Silver solder & heat shrink are your friends. If you can get the pins out & replacement pins in, I'd still solder them even though the factory pins are just crimped.

Good luck in your repairs.
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Old 10-22-2012, 09:31 PM   #5
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hmmm I'm just really concerned about a loss in voltage. The 02 sensors are like 0.00 to 0.99v in reading. =/ I'll try it
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Old 10-22-2012, 09:58 PM   #6
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If I recall correctly, you're not supposed to solder signal wires on a zirconia o2 sensor.

A zirconia o2 sensor is a galvanic battery and the difference in oxygen between the tailpipe and atmosphere is how it produces voltage. The bigger the difference in oxygen content (richer mixture) means a higher signal voltage.

The sensor gets atmospheric oxygen through the braids in the wires itself. And if you solder the wire, the wire is no longer braided and cannot flow oxygen through the empty space around the braids.

I'm pretty sure all zirconia o2 sensors are this way, but I'll look it up on gm service information tomorrow to make sure.
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Old 10-22-2012, 10:01 PM   #7
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I'll look up disassembly of the plugs also while I'm at it. You'll probably need a special tool to release a locking tab that holds the pin in the connector housing.
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Old 10-22-2012, 10:05 PM   #8
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I'm familiar with how plugs hold wires as I work on helicopters for a living. My biggest concern is that i cancelled my warranty with the dealership the other day and I just found this problem. As you can see from my mods, if I take it to the dealership, do you think they will replace the wires?
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Old 10-22-2012, 10:21 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Medi0cr3 View Post
I'm familiar with how plugs hold wires as I work on helicopters for a living. My biggest concern is that i cancelled my warranty with the dealership the other day and I just found this problem. As you can see from my mods, if I take it to the dealership, do you think they will replace the wires?
Depends on the dealership really. They could say that the wires were pinched during a cam or header install. If that isn't the case they would have a hard time proving your mods caused the o2 signal wires to short together.

I would say it's worth a try.

I noticed you have headers. Do your headers require an o2 sensor extension harness? If so, did you test the extension harness separately? Maybe the heat caused the wires to melt together. It's just a guess but it's worth looking into if you haven't already.
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Old 10-23-2012, 12:15 AM   #10
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no extension required. I even swapped the sensors from rt to lt to verify their functionality.

I will try the dealer on wednesday, however If they dont do anything on it, I would still appreciate your info on the aforementioned stuff! tia
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Old 10-24-2012, 06:01 PM   #11
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Heated Oxygen Sensor Wiring Repairs

Caution: Do not solder repairs under any circumstances as this could result in the air reference being obstructed.

If the heated oxygen sensor pigtail wiring, connector, or terminal is damaged the entire oxygen sensor assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector, or terminals. In order for the sensor to function properly it must have a clean air reference. This clean air reference is obtained by way of the oxygen sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and degrade oxygen sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the heated oxygen sensor:
Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors. These materials may get into the sensor, causing poor performance. Also, the sensor pigtail and harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.

Neither the sensor nor vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks, etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.

Do not remove or defeat the oxygen sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize the ground wire sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor. Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.

To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the vehicle harness connector.
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Old 10-24-2012, 06:03 PM   #12
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B52C Heated Oxygen Sensor – Bank 1 Sensor 1 (L99 or LS3)






Connector Part Information

Harness Type: Engine
OEM Connector: 12092839
Service Connector: 88987991
Description: 5-Way M Metri-Pack 150 Series (BK)

Terminal Part Information

Terminated Lead: 13575420
Release Tool: J-38125-12A
Diagnostic Test Probe: J-35616-3
Terminal/Tray: 12045773
Core/Insulation Crimp: E/1

A- Low Signal
B- High Sinal
C- Not Use
D- IGN +
E- Heater Low Side Driver Circuit


....Hope this helps! I never could find any instructions on connector dissassembly but if you need any help figuring it out just tell me and i'll look at my car to see.
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*1998 Chevrolet K1500, 6' superlift, 35' pro-comp tires, cammed 355ci with forged internals, 4.56 gears, eaton locker, k&n cold air intake, shortie headers, custom tune with Hp tuning software. SOON TO BE TRADED IN TO A 2014 GMC SIERRA!

Last edited by danielblack60; 10-24-2012 at 06:15 PM. Reason: Tried copying and pasting but messed up.
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Old 03-08-2013, 05:06 AM   #13
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bump
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Hurst Short-Shifter; Ideal Garage Master Cylinder
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BMR: Adjustable; Trailing Arms, Toe Rods, Extreme Sway Bar. BMR Subframe Bushings.
Strange Rear Coilovers and mounts
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Old 03-12-2013, 02:01 PM   #14
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My opinion would be to purchase a New engine harness, they are not alot of money and easy to install.

You could spend a lot of money on diagnosis and repair and still have a problem.

Ted.
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