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Old 11-04-2012, 07:17 PM   #1
SimpleGreen

 
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DIY: Constant Hot Power Outlet (Add A Circuit)

Yea I know. Been covered before. Nothing wrong with another informative thread. Occasionally I need to leave my phone in the car to charge and the outlet only works with the the key on. No good. I have seen some people splice into a wire in the console. I have noticed there is no wire in my console that is hot all the time (may vary by car and/or options ordered).

So, I had to add a circuit. This is how I did it! I have been doing electrical work on new emergency vehicles for 4.5 years now, so this is nothing special to accomplish.

I apologize as I missed some picture opportunities. I was preoccupied with other things as well.

Laid a towel down on the seat and grabbed a few tools.

Strippers (For stripping)
Crimpers (For crimping)
Side Cutters (Cutting zip ties and wire loom)
Needle Nose (Grabbing Stuff)
Torch (For heat shrink tubing and butt connectors)
Interior panel tools (Doesnt scar up plastics like a metal screw driver can)
Test light (For checking power - be careful where you stick these things in modern cars!)

The all in one electrical tools that are at WalMart and auto parts stores would work fine, as would regular non-heatshrink connectors but this is how I do things at work so that's how they get done in my car. You can even solder and heat shrink if you wish but I find that unnecessary on things like this (outside of radio work and such).



Now, you have to remove the trim piece around the shifter. You may be able to pull it up by hand, but I used a plastic interior tool. If you plan on doing more interior work and care about your car, go to Harbor Freight and buy a set of interior panel tools. Less than $10 for a set of 5 various shaped tools that are plastic and won't scar up your panels. Just slide it under the back and gently lift. Then slide it around one side of the panel and it will pop right up. You will have to pull the shifter back to squeeze the panel out past the radio/AC controls.



Un plug the panel so you can easily work with it. The plugs are simple. Just push the tab in and pull it out of the making connector.

Alright, I do not like running wires in cars without some form of protection all willy nilly through the dash board, etc. I have done it in old beater trucks but I think a $27K car that's 7 months old deserves better. This stuff I had laying around from other projects. I used a piece of 14g red wire and some 1/4" split wire loom. You can get small bits of it from auto parts stores but if you are going to do a bit of work on your car go to Summit Racing or someone similar and buy a roll of it and save yourself a TON of money. Same with the wire. I also used a bullet connector so I can easily disconnect the cigarette outlet in case I take the panel off to work on something. Put the FEMALE END on the wire, the MALE END on the outlet. This way if you unplug it there is no exposed metal contact to touch something and short out.

If you run bare uncovered wire through the car, be certain to not let it rub on metal parts, or get into pinch zones.




Alright. I simply cut the wire to the outlet, put heat shrink on the bare end, and but the MALE bullet connector on the outlet.



Then I secured everything nice and neat to put it back in.



Alright. Pull the trim panel off the left side of the console. Just grab it anywhere and give a little tug. It will start popping right loose. Feed your wire through one of the small openings against the carpet, under the radio. Pull it out under the dash. Run your wire under the dash panel across to your fuse box. I zip tied mine in a few places to keep it secure. Slide your panel back into place and gently snap it back down and put your console trim back on.



Oh, you may want to pull the driver side end dash cover off to get your wire out! It's easiest to grab the bottom corner by the door gasket and start popping it loose there.



I used an 'Add A Circuit' and plugged into the '30A Battery' slot at the bottom corner of the fuse box. It's tight squeeze to put it in because it's so close to the edge of the box. Just fold the wire over gently and push it in. Put a 30A fuse into Slot A (to protect the original circuit) and a 10A fuse into slot B (to protect your new circuit). I tied it up with a couple small zip ties and was done! My outlet now works all the time like it has in every other vehicle I have ever owned.







Eventually I will be removing this as I'm going to make a custom wiring harness that will start at the battery in the trunk and provide power and fuse protection for the front power outlet plus cup holder lighting, glove box and foot well lights, and upper and lower grille lights. Some of that will be controlled by remote control. I still have to start drawing it all up
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Old 11-04-2012, 07:57 PM   #2
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I have a couple words of advice. I connected a constance on wire to my console lighter to charge my phone. In about 3 days my Camaro would not start it because it drained the battery so be careful.
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Old 11-04-2012, 08:09 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by Caddyroger View Post
I have a couple words of advice. I connected a constance on wire to my console lighter to charge my phone. In about 3 days my Camaro would not start it because it drained the battery so be careful.
My car doesn't sit for more than 18 hours at a time. I have never killed a battery in my life with a cell phone charger so I think it will be alright Thanks.
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Old 11-04-2012, 09:34 PM   #4
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Another thing, in that same fuse panel a couple of the Spare's that doesn't have any fuses are also constantly on. If someone doesn't want to go the Add a Circuit route they could just use a voltmeter and find which ones these are and go that route.
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Old 11-04-2012, 10:03 PM   #5
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Another thing, in that same fuse panel a couple of the Spare's that doesn't have any fuses are also constantly on. If someone doesn't want to go the Add a Circuit route they could just use a voltmeter and find which ones these are and go that route.
I actually was looking at that on the legend on the cover but it was getting dark. I will look at it again tomorrow and may move my circuit and post an update
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Old 11-04-2012, 10:05 PM   #6
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Old 11-04-2012, 10:07 PM   #7
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That works too. Yay for ideas coming together.
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Old 11-04-2012, 10:33 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SimpleGreen View Post
My car doesn't sit for more than 18 hours at a time. I have never killed a battery in my life with a cell phone charger so I think it will be alright Thanks.
This is to warn the others readers also.
Before I bought the camaro I had Pontiac Grand AM that had a Constance on recepitical. I could kept my cell for a couple weeks at a time with out draining the battery down. The Camaro I might be able to go 4 days. I only drive every 4 or t days so put it back the way it was. The way I use my cell phone the battery will go 5 or 6 days with out a charge.
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Old 11-04-2012, 11:14 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by Caddyroger View Post
This is to warn the others readers also.
Before I bought the camaro I had Pontiac Grand AM that had a Constance on recepitical. I could kept my cell for a couple weeks at a time with out draining the battery down. The Camaro I might be able to go 4 days. I only drive every 4 or t days so put it back the way it was. The way I use my cell phone the battery will go 5 or 6 days with out a charge.
Oh I hear ya. My car is a daily driver to the fullest so it's of no concern for me personally, and my phone MIGHT make it from sun up to sun down before it needs to be on a charger. Smart phones FTW.
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Old 11-10-2012, 10:47 PM   #10
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I know you said you didn't find a constant wire in the shifter bezel harness but I have done a few cars and it's worked out. You're way works to!! Awesome job!
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Old 11-24-2012, 06:04 PM   #11
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I know you said you didn't find a constant wire in the shifter bezel harness but I have done a few cars and it's worked out. You're way works to!! Awesome job!
If there is a constant power source in the shifter bezel harness as well as a ground, could these be tapped into without it draining your battery? Since these are already on all the time and the battery is not being drained as it is from the factory, or does adding the constant power to the lighter into the loop change things?
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Old 11-24-2012, 11:02 PM   #12
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Adding the constant power to the lighter will not drain your battery unless you have something (like your cell phone) using the lighter for it's power source.
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Old 11-25-2012, 01:21 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cmlloveless View Post
If there is a constant power source in the shifter bezel harness as well as a ground, could these be tapped into without it draining your battery? Since these are already on all the time and the battery is not being drained as it is from the factory, or does adding the constant power to the lighter into the loop change things?
Red wire with White stripe if you have 4 pack guages.

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=197946

GTFD2 is 100% correct that just having power there will not affect the battery until you plug something into it.
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Old 05-24-2013, 03:55 PM   #14
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Here's an idea guys:

In the Fuse Box, jumper from the input of a "constant on" fuse to the input of the cigarette lighter fuse. This should cause the cigarette lighter to remain 12v when the car is off, without having to run a long wire to the shift console.
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Old 05-24-2013, 04:09 PM   #15
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Here's an idea guys:

In the Fuse Box, jumper from the input of a "constant on" fuse to the input of the cigarette lighter fuse. This should cause the cigarette lighter to remain 12v when the car is off, without having to run a long wire to the shift console.
Can you post a photo showing this? I have the cell problem...
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Old 05-25-2013, 08:53 PM   #16
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Well I follow brilliant b advice... Works like a charm!
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Old 05-26-2013, 12:57 PM   #17
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Good idea! It looks like you are running the power outlet through that 5A fuse, though.
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Old 05-26-2013, 02:28 PM   #18
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Good idea! It looks like you are running the power outlet through that 5A fuse, though.
I should be lower than that?
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Old 05-26-2013, 04:56 PM   #19
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No. Not sure how that 5A is connected to power, but, it would be better to move the wire to the other side of it. That way, you are not going through the 5A fuse first.

Also, you are bypassing the 20A fuse that way. Seems like you should just move both wires to the other side.
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Old 05-26-2013, 08:39 PM   #20
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No. Not sure how that 5A is connected to power, but, it would be better to move the wire to the other side of it. That way, you are not going through the 5A fuse first.

Also, you are bypassing the 20A fuse that way. Seems like you should just move both wires to the other side.
I don't know to much about this but other member mention that putting the wire on the right is the safe side...
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Old 05-26-2013, 08:42 PM   #21
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Correct. "Safe" being after fuse, but, for what you are doing, it should be the other side.
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Old 12-12-2014, 12:02 PM   #22
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Well I follow brilliant b advice... Works like a charm!
This seems like the easiest way to do this . Have you had any problems ?
And did you keep the wire on that side of that 5A fuse?
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