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Old 11-27-2012, 06:23 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by 14pilot View Post
If I where to do this, I'd go to and engine builder and discuss my goals with them.

No offense intended to anyone here, but I would not go to any Internet forum for advice.

Just a thought...

you know some of the most reputable builders of LS visit this forum?
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Old 11-27-2012, 07:50 AM   #16
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I comend you for staying NA, but whether your NA or FI there is no such thing as reliable. In this hobby it's, build, race, break and repeat.

What is your budget?
The cam might not be for you, I'd call comp and ask for Gab Grey he is definitely the one to talk to about your goals.
The gears are definitely too low, since you do lots of hwy driving I might just stay stock
From the list please remove the coil packs
I'd just get some msd wires and save the rest of the money
Not sure about arp timing chain bolts?
The stall will depend on the cam

Have you considered selling your short block and getting a stroker? they are sponsors that will give you money for it if you purchase one of their shortblocks.

Just thinking out loud.
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Old 11-27-2012, 11:39 AM   #17
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Just saying we have built a street driven 515 RWHP SS..with heads cam and bolt ons..yes you should replace springs every 2 yrs or so, but other then that this car is a daily driver, and clicks off 10.8 at 129 mph
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Old 11-27-2012, 12:44 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by John@cartek View Post
Just saying we have built a street driven 515 RWHP SS..with heads cam and bolt ons..yes you should replace springs every 2 yrs or so, but other then that this car is a daily driver, and clicks off 10.8 at 129 mph
You have a parts list?
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Old 11-27-2012, 12:56 PM   #19
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Remember, the FI will provide compensation for your altitude in Boise. Might be the easiest way to achieve the results you're looking for.
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Old 11-27-2012, 01:02 PM   #20
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There is no way you can build an all motor ls block to have the kind of power a supercharger delivers throughout the rpm range and not suffer for streetability or manners. Not saying the thing will be a pain to drive, but there is a trade off.
I've just felt it and I'm a believer.
Not for the same price. You can easily make 550+ and have it perfectly streetable for enough money. Just spending $20k on a motor vs $6k on a blower isn't what most people do.

Or you can spend $6500 on a TT kit, make 500-700rwhp through the auto with the turn of a knob, and it will drive just like stock until you mash the pedal.
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Old 11-27-2012, 03:50 PM   #21
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You have a parts list?
I would be very surprised if that car didn't have alot of weight reduction. I also dont care what they or anyone says, a stock cubed NA heads/cam/intake car is not going to drive as good as a FI car and if you laid both dyno graphs over each other you would see massive chunks of power difference from the FI setup over the NA setup.

Price a Fast 102/102, Mast or PRC aftermarket heads, cam, converter, install and supporting hardware and see if it doesnt cost the same as a FI kit with fuel componets and install. When looking for over 500rwhp there is no cheaper alternative than FI and the driveability at that power level is going to be night and day.
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Old 11-27-2012, 04:35 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John@cartek View Post
Just saying we have built a street driven 515 RWHP SS..with heads cam and bolt ons..yes you should replace springs every 2 yrs or so, but other then that this car is a daily driver, and clicks off 10.8 at 129 mph
And it makes 5 ft/lbs of torque at 1500 rpm.
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Old 11-27-2012, 05:43 PM   #23
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All those mods and you MIGHT touch high 400s or just touch 500 on an L99. You don't have the compression to turn out more power, and you lose a lot through the trans.
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Old 11-27-2012, 06:08 PM   #24
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Unless I missed something, I don't believe the OP ever specified he wanted 550 RWHP, as opposed to engine HP. 'Makes a big difference, as most of you know.
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Old 11-27-2012, 06:51 PM   #25
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Unless I missed something, I don't believe the OP ever specified he wanted 550 RWHP, as opposed to engine HP. 'Makes a big difference, as most of you know.
Yes but he did specify that he wants to be able to run with a ZO6 and thats going to take 525-550RWHP through a auto to just barely beat a stock one.
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Old 11-27-2012, 08:07 PM   #26
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Just get a blower cam, and if it's not what you were hoping for... put a blower on it. Seems like an easy decision to me. Doesn't matter how fast your car is. As long as it CAN be faster... you'll know it deep down
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Old 11-27-2012, 08:14 PM   #27
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FI is looking more and more what i should be looking into. seems i was confused on going all motor. sounds like its more unreliable then low boost forced induction....thank god for the forum. everyone has been such a help. on that note time too look into what brand of fI, i know i wanna supercharge.
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Old 11-27-2012, 08:53 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VADER SS L99 View Post
Yes but he did specify that he wants to be able to run with a ZO6 and thats going to take 525-550RWHP through a auto to just barely beat a stock one.
True. Can't argue with that... Sometimes building your ride slowly is half the fun though--keeps it interesting and from one getting bored with their ride. You can always start N/A and progress to boost later, if it's not enough. That's my plan, anyway. 'Still enjoying the journey and looking forward (often impatiently) to the next improvement in performance and fun.
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Mods: Forged LS3 (9.8:1 CR), Maggie TVS 2300 SC with OD rear pulley, Custom Comp cam (223/244, .610/.596, 114 LSA), Monster LT1-SC twin-disk clutch, ZL1 drivetrain conversion w/ DSS 1000-HP axles & 1-pc. driveshaft, CAI Inc. intake w/ ADM scoop, XS Power full exhaust (1 7/8" LT headers with 3" off-road pipes), VMAX CNC-ported TB, LSR adjustable sway bars, LPE rear end-links, BMR 1" drop, BMR polyurethane bushings; UMI trailing arms & toe rods. 580 rwhp/566 rwtq (Mustang Dyno, 7.5psi, maxed-out injectors). Built & tuned by Lashway Motorsports.
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