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Cosmetics and Lighting Modification Discussions External and Internal cosmetics modifications.

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Old 06-18-2013, 10:50 AM   #276
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SSMOKN View Post
My battery never recovered from this I have to have a tender on it all the time!
It went totally dead too many times. I'm adding some other lighting mods can anyone suggest a good battery?
at shows I'll be running halos,door sills, protectors and tail lights.
Check out Deke736 journal/thread on this matter. I think it's titled "key stuck in the ignition" or something like that, anyway he changed the power source to an ignition source. Brake lights still work and everything without the key, but for turn signals and show mode the key has to be in acc/on. So there's no drain on the battery when the car is parked. He could park it for months, no power is being drained whatsoever. If you ever leave it for several days/weeks this is the BEST Solution!
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Old 06-18-2013, 11:37 AM   #277
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Normagene- why do I always feel like you are talking about me! LOL!

Here is a link to the thread you mentioned:
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...=275372&page=2

I have shared this with Normagene before, but I thought I would share it here as well. I recently made some modifications to the wiring that allows me to switch back and forth between a switched source and a constant source. Here is the summary of what I did:

Since I occasionally go to shows, I wanted the ability to leave the "show mode" running without a having the key turned or the parking lights on and for normal use flip back over to the switched source so there is no constant drain on the battery. You will want a SPDT (single pole double throw) switch with an ON-ON configuration for the power, and a SPST (single pole single throw) for the ON-OFF of the show mode. No stores around me carried the SPDT switches so I ordered them online for about $2 each. To wire the SPDT, I simply ran the wire from the switched source to one pole and the wire from the constant source (the battery in this case) to the other pole. The single pole out went back to the taillights. Now I have the ability to switch to a constant power source (battery) when I am at shows and I don't have to leave the lights on or the key in the ignition. When I am driving the car normally, I keep the switch on the switched source so I do not get any battery draw from the taillights when the car is sitting in the garage.

Overall, this solution works exactly like I had hoped, and gives me the best of both worlds. If you aren't worried about the "show mode" feature then this probably doesn't mean much to you, but if you do it's a great wiring option.
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Old 06-18-2013, 11:42 AM   #278
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SSMOKN View Post
My battery never recovered from this I have to have a tender on it all the time!

It went totally dead too many times. I'm adding some other lighting mods can anyone suggest a good battery?

at shows I'll be running halos,door sills, protectors and tail lights.
That sucks. I was lucky in that even after my battery was drained twice, it still charges completely without issue. I have halos, grill lights, taillights, etc installed and can still run them all day without any negative affects.

While I don't have any battery suggestions for you, I would recommend trying my wiring solution I posted above when you hook up the new battery. I have been running this way for a few months now and I have not experienced another battery drain issue since.

I would also recommend that any new lights you install be put on a switch so you can power them off completely when not in use. I have mine tapped into constant power sources in the drivers side panel and then wired to a switch.
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Old 06-18-2013, 01:08 PM   #279
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Normagene- why do I always feel like you are talking about me! LOL! .
Guilty as Charged! One of these I may be selling a poster on the forum, of this picture below...hehehe LOL
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Old 06-18-2013, 05:46 PM   #280
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I know a guy who's been through 5 sets of these because the driver side outside light stopped working in show mode and sometimes not at all and condensation inside the lenses.

They worked great at first. Then in hot weather the driver side outside wouldn't work until it cooled off and then stopped working all together.

Then there was the battery drain issue. He had his wired to a switch also, but his battery kept getting drained.

Finally, this 6th set seems to be working OK for him. He said he's done if these malfunction.

I was asking, "Why? You've slready switched them 5 times. What's one more time?"
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Old 06-18-2013, 09:21 PM   #281
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I know a guy who knew a guy that knows another guy who knew that guy. I think his name was Guy
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Old 06-19-2013, 04:27 AM   #282
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While knocking furiously on wood, I have to report that I've had mine for 2 years. Occasional condensation (3-4 times maybe) when washing on a cold day but no other issues. Car has sat for 6-7 days a couple of times with no dead battery; and this is with the original OEM battery now almost 4 years old.

Not intending to dismiss any problems with them, only that there are sets out there that do work.
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Old 06-19-2013, 08:18 AM   #283
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While knocking furiously on wood, I have to report that I've had mine for 2 years. Occasional condensation (3-4 times maybe) when washing on a cold day but no other issues. Car has sat for 6-7 days a couple of times with no dead battery; and this is with the original OEM battery now almost 4 years old.

Not intending to dismiss any problems with them, only that there are sets out there that do work.
Outstanding! I just recently installed mine and I've let the car sit for about seven maybe eight days with no battery drain. Did my power connections per enclosed instructions. Glad to hear really no issues in two plus years!
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Old 06-19-2013, 08:27 AM   #284
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7 months no issues at all.
got mine right when rev2 was released. no moisture to killing the battery and I use show mode all the time.

best appearance mod I have ever done.
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Old 06-19-2013, 08:45 AM   #285
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7 months no issues at all.
got mine right when rev2 was released. no moisture to killing the battery and I use show mode all the time.

best appearance mod I have ever done.
Where did you install your show mode switch? I'm thinking of running the wire up to the drivers seat area. Not thrilled about having to open the trunk, hit the switch, close the trunk, just to go into show mode. Like the idea way better of sitting in the drivers seat and hitting show mode anytime I want. If you did run the wires up front, how difficult?
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Old 06-20-2013, 07:00 AM   #286
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Where did you install your show mode switch? I'm thinking of running the wire up to the drivers seat area. Not thrilled about having to open the trunk, hit the switch, close the trunk, just to go into show mode. Like the idea way better of sitting in the drivers seat and hitting show mode anytime I want. If you did run the wires up front, how difficult?

Here's a much easier solution (no need to run wires to the front and you control the lights remotely): http://www.ebay.com/itm/RP100-12V-DC...item5d34c568b5. I've had my switch and lights for ten months. No problems with either.
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Old 06-24-2013, 05:08 AM   #287
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Just found this while trying to deal with this battery drain problem while I'm deployed. My plan was to have my wife go to the storage unit where my car is stored while I'm gone and crank it every couple weeks. So the first time she went to start it after I left the battery is dead. She gets it jumped and lets it run for a bit but as soon as it's shut off it will not crank again. So I thought since it was still using the original battery (2010 model) that it was finally just time for a new battery. Bought a new battery ($200+) and put it in (i was skyping her and walking her throught it). I also had her pull the power, ground and remote wires off my amp and isolate them just in case it was draining the battery somehow. So after she puts the new batery in the cars cranks right up and all is good. She went back yesterday 2 weeks later and the car won't start, has to use the jump box to crank it.
So I guess add me to the list since the only thing that changed was installing these tailights last summer. It usually gets driven daily or every couple of days so I guess I never went long enough for it the drain completely. So she's going to exchange the battery just in case it was bad (which I doubt) and put another new one in. My question is should I tell her to disconnect the pink wire to the positive post or to just take the negative cable off completely and not worry about starting it while I'm gone (got 4 months to go)?
Any help is appreciated. I hate having to have her do these things since she's nervous she's going to hurt something on the car.
Thanks
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Old 06-24-2013, 06:26 AM   #288
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Originally Posted by eodtech72 View Post
Just found this while trying to deal with this battery drain problem while I'm deployed. My plan was to have my wife go to the storage unit where my car is stored while I'm gone and crank it every couple weeks. So the first time she went to start it after I left the battery is dead. She gets it jumped and lets it run for a bit but as soon as it's shut off it will not crank again. So I thought since it was still using the original battery (2010 model) that it was finally just time for a new battery. Bought a new battery ($200+) and put it in (i was skyping her and walking her throught it). I also had her pull the power, ground and remote wires off my amp and isolate them just in case it was draining the battery somehow. So after she puts the new batery in the cars cranks right up and all is good. She went back yesterday 2 weeks later and the car won't start, has to use the jump box to crank it.
So I guess add me to the list since the only thing that changed was installing these tailights last summer. It usually gets driven daily or every couple of days so I guess I never went long enough for it the drain completely. So she's going to exchange the battery just in case it was bad (which I doubt) and put another new one in. My question is should I tell her to disconnect the pink wire to the positive post or to just take the negative cable off completely and not worry about starting it while I'm gone (got 4 months to go)?
Any help is appreciated. I hate having to have her do these things since she's nervous she's going to hurt something on the car.
Thanks
Hi, thanks for your service to our country. Since its obviously a hassle to go and start the car up every few days then IMO disconnect the pink wire. When you get back you could install a toggle switch, cost like three bucks, so you can just flip the switch instead of having to dig down to the battery. Only problem with that is you could jump in the car and take off somewhere without remembering to turn them on. Deke736 has the Best Permanent solution, he connected his so it only gets power when the key is on/acc. It's all in this thread, should be easy to do since you already have an amp, you could tap into its power line. Hope this helps. Mine is connected directly to the battery, and I think I've gone around a week without starting it, no problems whatsoever, two weeks I think I'd probably end up with a dead battery.
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Old 06-24-2013, 06:30 AM   #289
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Originally Posted by AFCMSGTRET View Post
Here's a much easier solution (no need to run wires to the front and you control the lights remotely): http://www.ebay.com/itm/RP100-12V-DC...item5d34c568b5. I've had my switch and lights for ten months. No problems with either.
Placed an order, thanks, right about that, way way easier than running a wire, and drilling a hole somewhere in my console. This is the same setup/remote on my Mild to Wild, so I know it works well. Again thanks!
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Old 06-24-2013, 07:25 AM   #290
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Just trying to clear this up. Is the pink wire going to the (+) side of the battery the only way it's pulling on the battery? Or is it also doing it some how through the factory harness? I'll probably just keep the battery totally disconnected unless there's some reason that would hurt the car...? Anyone know if the battery needs to be connected while it's stored?
Thanks again
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Old 06-24-2013, 08:57 AM   #291
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Just trying to clear this up. Is the pink wire going to the (+) side of the battery the only way it's pulling on the battery? Or is it also doing it some how through the factory harness? I'll probably just keep the battery totally disconnected unless there's some reason that would hurt the car...? Anyone know if the battery needs to be connected while it's stored?
Thanks again
Not sure how much current is being drawn by the OEM harness, but it has to be minimal. Come the New England winter time I'll use a Battery Tender on mine. If you have a power source (over head bulb/receptacle) that's the way I would go. I'd have to look in the Owners Manual for long time storage, but I don't think four months is considered long time. And yes to the pink wire is pulling/draining the battery. Disconnect it and you're all set. I prefer the Battery Tender myself.
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Old 06-27-2013, 07:42 PM   #292
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Okay...so here's my take. I installed them yesterday..passenger side is working perfectly....driver's side is a little messed up. With the headlight's off, my driver side tail lamps are working but it's not sequential as one of them is blinking twice as fast as the other (resistor problem). With the headlight's on, the running light for the outer side (driver's) isn't lighting up...tried the left signal light, hazard light and brake but nothing seems to work. But if you turn off the head light, everything works perfect...apart from the sequential turn signal. Show mode is working too. To counter the battery drain problem, I decided to put 2 switches...one for the ground and the other for the battery. That way, I can just switch it off easily instead of removing the pink wire off the battery. I contacted Todd and he is very helpful. He will send my new resistor tomorrow to fix the sequential problem. As for the headlight-running light problem, etc., I still don't know what's wrong with it. Their office is closed so I cannot ask them about it. Will let you know as soon as I find the culprit.
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Old 06-28-2013, 06:34 AM   #293
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Just want to post a quick tip for anyone ordering a remote switch to operate their "Show Mode" taillights. Make sure you order a RP100. Cost like 18 bucks on eBay. Way better than running a wire to the drivers console and drilling a hole for a toggle switch. I ordered a RM100/WRONG! It doesn't work for this setup. Again, YOU NEED A RP100.
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Old 06-28-2013, 02:26 PM   #294
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Fixed the problem about the headlight thingy. It's just a loose connection. Once I get the resistor, everything will be prefect. I guess the problem with the fog and whatnot are in the old versions of this tail light...more like early release. Battery drain, on the other hand-I believe, is still a problem. I don't have that problem because I put a switch in it instead of hooking it up straight to the battery. Good luck to future owners and I hope you don't get problems with your tail lights.
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Old 06-28-2013, 02:48 PM   #295
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I've had mine since Dec. of 2010 and have not had any issues, knocking quickly on wood. I have even left my car parked for over 3 weeks and no issues. It is hotter than Hell in AZ and they have worked well so far.
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Old 06-28-2013, 02:57 PM   #296
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I've had mine since Dec. of 2010 and have not had any issues, knocking quickly on wood. I have even left my car parked for over 3 weeks and no issues. It is hotter than Hell in AZ and they have worked well so far.

Nice. I wonder why some got a malfunctioning tail lights. Maybe the QA did some random check instead of testing them one by one...or maybe the vendor sold it for cheap knowing that problems could arise in the future. I hope they fix all these problems asap as these tail lights aren't cheap.
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Old 06-28-2013, 03:19 PM   #297
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Fixed the problem about the headlight thingy. It's just a loose connection. Once I get the resistor, everything will be prefect. I guess the problem with the fog and whatnot are in the old versions of this tail light...more like early release. Battery drain, on the other hand-I believe, is still a problem. I don't have that problem because I put a switch in it instead of hooking it up straight to the battery. Good luck to future owners and I hope you don't get problems with your tail lights.
What about your "Show Mode" setup. Remote/switch up front/switch in the trunk? I love the remote idea. Deke736 has the best solution for anybody who has a battery drainage problem. I'll use a battery tender if I ever have to let her sit for an extended period of time.
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Old 06-28-2013, 07:47 PM   #298
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I was going to put an update long time ago, but forgot. LOL

Anyway....
I had my friend run the red cable to a fuse that only receives power when ignition is on. Ever since this change I've had no issues with my Braille battery.

Just an FYI for you guys draining the battery.
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Old 06-28-2013, 07:47 PM   #299
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What about your "Show Mode" setup. Remote/switch up front/switch in the trunk? I love the remote idea. Deke736 has the best solution for anybody who has a battery drainage problem. I'll use a battery tender if I ever have to let her sit for an extended period of time.
Remote is the way to go but I decided to have a separate switch for my show mode and the battery connection. I put it on my trunk...hidden actually so nobody can see it but me...not unless if they started looking for it. I'm thinking of routing it on the front seat but I changed my mind.

I would suggest that you put a switch for the battery so that you don't need to use any battery tender or whatnot...just a click away and you're good.
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Old 06-28-2013, 07:50 PM   #300
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I was going to put an update long time ago, but forgot. LOL

Anyway....
I had my friend run the red cable to a fuse that only receives power when ignition is on. Ever since this change I've had no issues with my Braille battery.

Just an FYI for you guys draining the battery.
...and that too...whatever is convenient for us...as long as its working.
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