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Cosmetics and Lighting Modification Discussions External and Internal cosmetics modifications.

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Old 12-02-2012, 12:56 PM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zkdreads View Post
i know but you said you bought a new battery. so i would assume a new battery has at least year warranty. i just bought a new battery about a month ago and it has a 4 year warranty and 3 year prorated warranty
Ahhhh gotcha, that's what you mean. I went to Sears and told then my battery was dead and they gave me this new one I'm using now . I didn't tell them I had lighting mods, etc. on this car though, and luckily they covered the dead battery under warranty.

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TCAT,
that's right, now you know that the lights draw only 105mA, which is nothing and about right.
Now, do a test where you put the meter on the battery terminal and the the disconnected battery cable. Like in that pic. You should read about 1 to 2 A.
Thanks MGD. I really appreciate this help. Let me try what you just described. Il be back in a second.
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Old 12-02-2012, 01:03 PM   #52
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Hmm....I just did that test. I put the red voltmeter probe on the positive battery terminal, and the black voltmeter probe on the red/positive disconnected battery cable. The reading is going erratic and won't get a still reading. It varies from a half an Amp all the way to 3.7A. Why doesn't it stay somewhat steady? Am I supposed to put the red and black probes of the meter in the opposites spots from how I measured?
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Old 12-02-2012, 01:12 PM   #53
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You can put the probes either way,you will only change the reading from negative to positive, it doesn't matter. If you do the test, make sure all stuff is turned off. Close the doors, pull the light bulb from the trunk, it will draw some current. Give it a minute or two to stabilize. All your components like BCM and all computers will draw some current. Your meter has to stay on A/DC like you had it.
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Old 12-02-2012, 03:54 PM   #54
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I don't mean to butt in but if you have the probes with the little alligator clips on them then clip them to the battery terminal and the disconnected positive wire. If you are still getting the 3.7 amp draw then try pulling fuses, one at a time, of what you suspect might be causing the draw. Check the meter again after each fuse pull, that should show you which circuit or component is causing your problem. Please keep us updated on what you find, good luck I hope it turns out to be something simple.

I am sad to hear about all the problems with these tail lights as I was very interested in putting them on my car in the next few months. I saw them in person for the first time at last years Camaro5fest and they are eye catching to say the least.
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Old 12-02-2012, 04:59 PM   #55
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Originally Posted by cadyshac View Post
I don't mean to butt in but if you have the probes with the little alligator clips on them then clip them to the battery terminal and the disconnected positive wire. If you are still getting the 3.7 amp draw then try pulling fuses, one at a time, of what you suspect might be causing the draw. Check the meter again after each fuse pull, that should show you which circuit or component is causing your problem. Please keep us updated on what you find, good luck I hope it turns out to be something simple.

I am sad to hear about all the problems with these tail lights as I was very interested in putting them on my car in the next few months. I saw them in person for the first time at last years Camaro5fest and they are eye catching to say the least.
Thanks a ton. I truly appreciate it. These lights do look amazing, but it's tough that the quality is a hit or miss. Some people have no issues and others have a ton. I hope you get a great set that suits well for years to come.

MGD came over just a while ago and tested out everything on the car that could be drawing power. What he came up with is that the car is not drawing more than it should when all accessories are on, or off. Each taillight terminal was tested and they are drawing the same amount as his, which was normal. So, it may not be the taillights. It may be a really really horrible coincidence. I may keep my battery on a tender just in case, especially since it isn't a daily driver any longer. This will at least help keep my battery alive, and my wallet happier.

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Originally Posted by MGD View Post
You can put the probes either way,you will only change the reading from negative to positive, it doesn't matter. If you do the test, make sure all stuff is turned off. Close the doors, pull the light bulb from the trunk, it will draw some current. Give it a minute or two to stabilize. All your components like BCM and all computers will draw some current. Your meter has to stay on A/DC like you had it.
Thanks a ton for helping me out and spending time out of your Sunday for helping out a person you don't even know . You were a huge help, and I can at least rest knowing the car is drawing normal power. I'll keep everyone updated on the issue though, and whether or not I find another dead battery in the near future (without me putting the car on a tender of course ).
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Old 12-02-2012, 07:26 PM   #56
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welp i called it. just return the lights and get a refund. if you have to do ALLLLLL this to test cables, connections, wires etc etc. its not worth it. just like somebody said, your going to have in the back of your head all the time now " is my car going to start today". peace of mine, get your money back and then you can just say at least i tried!
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Old 12-02-2012, 07:54 PM   #57
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I actually agree. I love the look, but I'm not willing to play games with these lights just to find later on that my battery is dead once again. I'm happy we didn't find anything unusual and at the same time, I'm at a loss for words because I still don't know what exactly caused 2 dead batteries in two and a half months. Battery number 1 was the stck battery I had for about 1.25 years. The second battery was a diehard that I had for 2.5 months. The first battery I used at shows with LED's, and that one I felt fine dying because of that reason. The second one however, I didn't use LED's at all at any shows that I can even think of. So, could the diehard battery been bad from the factory? It is possible, but unlikely. Then again, who knows.
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Old 12-11-2012, 01:33 PM   #58
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Glad to hear its not the lights. i still haven't had a chance to test my system.
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Old 12-11-2012, 01:58 PM   #59
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Thanks me too . Now Technostalgia just has to get their act together and stop putting LED's in their taillights that burn out, LOL.

Through researching online, there is a rather sizable amount if individuals who have experienced dead batteries in as little as 1-2 months on either this vehicle type or other new vehicles. What's weird is that there should be minimal battery drain as the cars sits. We tested my cars drain with the inhibition off but all electrical components in standby as it would when sitting there normally. It showed minimal battery drain and completely normal readings. With the draw it was showing, it would take 6-12 months to kill the battery. So, I have no idea why the batteries have been dying so quickly when nothing is drawing lots of power, and no accessories have been accidentally left on. It's a mystery to me why I would have 2 dead batteries two months apart, especially when the car checked out A-okay.

So, the eliminate the possibility of this occurring again, I purchased a battery charger/tender, specifically the CTEK US3300. This is a fantastic charger, and is the recommended unit by many car manufacturers for their vehicles such as GM, Porsche, etc. I'll feel much more comfortable now with the CTEK attached to my car when I'm not driving it. With the unit constantly conditioning and analyzing the battery, each battery should live a longgggggg, healthy life. I found the CTEK online at Amazon for $55, which is great considering many online vendors were asking $70-80 for it.
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Old 12-11-2012, 02:05 PM   #60
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I wish i could use one of those, but i live in a condo and my car sits outside.
Right now my battery is charging, because yesterday when i got back from work i saw my taillights flashing randomly. the battery was at 7 volts when i started charging again.

Maybe one of those deep cycle Optima batteries would be better.
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Old 12-11-2012, 02:25 PM   #61
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Damn man, I'm sorry to hear that. This is definitely not good, and even though my car and the taillights tested out fine for the most part, I still blame them since they were the last thing installed on my car and I've had 2 dead batteries in 2.5 months. That's a little too crazy to be a coincidence. I'm not sure what to think about it, LOL. I teallyyyyyy hope you find a solution. That's crazy to have to deal with that all the time. There are too many people dealing with the same issue now.

One of those deep cycle batteries may help, but unfortunately I don't have any first had experience with them to offer any educated opinion on it.

Since both of our taillights flash before the battery is about to die, I wonder if that's a function built in to the taillights to tell us the battery now has low voltage. We need Todd to chime in here, or we'll give him a call.
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Old 12-12-2012, 12:25 AM   #62
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I've been thinking about the sequential lights and had some thoughts that may seem random but maybe will trigger other ideas and responses about why they may not be working properly. I'm not an expert on the sequentials but have read a little on them as I have been interested in buying some. Also, I haven't checked into the camaro electrical system in depth, so some things are speculation.


I've been around some devices that I replaced with newer, more efficient (lower current draw) units. These units were connected to boards with triac controls and some would energize but never de-energize. When connected to relay controls there was never an issue. I had to add resistors to the triac units so they would detect a load connected.


LED's work the same way in some situations such as replacing incandescent bulbs with LED's for blinkers or DRL's. The device controlling the blinking/illuminating effect doesn't "see" a load and thinks that a bulb is missing, which could explain (if I remember right) an earlier post about getting a message displayed that a bulb is out. Others have had to add resistors so the system sees a load.


For lights to work, they need a positive and negative which seems to me that there has to be a closure of the circuit at some point to energize the lights. If there was something in the taillights causing this closure, wouldn't they be on or flashing all the time? I have an LED flashlight with a strobe mode that acts really weird when it gets hot and if I leave it on, it stops blinking. When it cools, it works fine.


As for the sequentials flashing in show mode, I understand it requires a wire to be grounded. I would assume anyone using this installs a switch or pushbutton to ground. This also leads me to believe there is +12VDC to the taillights at all times or merely connecting a ground wouldn't do anything, so the signal triggering the lights is negative when the brake pedal is pressed or lights are turned on.

Is the camaro's body control module (BCM) electronic or electrical? I can't say yet, but I'm curious to find out when I get time. Could there be something in the BCM that doesn't like the "feedback" or load imbalance that the sequentials are sending to it (or not sending when it should)? Can different camaro models have different BCM's? Maybe this is why some have issues and some don't.
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Old 12-12-2012, 12:36 AM   #63
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Thanks for the input. That was fantastic, and gives great good for thought. I'll start asking some electricians, and I hope others chime in with details as well. Thanks!
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Old 12-12-2012, 12:53 AM   #64
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As for the sequentials flashing in show mode, I understand it requires a wire to be grounded. I would assume anyone using this installs a switch or pushbutton to ground. This also leads me to believe there is +12VDC to the taillights at all times or merely connecting a ground wouldn't do anything, so the signal triggering the lights is negative when the brake pedal is pressed or lights are turned on.
The lights have to be connected to constant 12V as the have a electronic circuit build in. There are two DIP switches in each light to select normal mode or advanced mode, one for rapid brake stobe and one for sequential turn signal. The integrated PIC, (Programmable Integrated Circuit) is a small computer chip with custom software programmed. In order for it to work properly, it needs constand 12V, ground to circuit is supplied by the regular light connectors. When you apply the brakes, it gets a high signal to one of its inputs and performes a programmed function and tells a LED driver to switch LED's on or off. Now, why it would randomly flash is beyond me. Maybe there is a function programmed in to flash at low battery voltage, I don't know, that is for the manufacturer to answer. I have my lights installed in July and have not seen one problem with them.
Sorry guys you have such bad luck with them.
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Old 12-13-2012, 08:50 PM   #65
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The lights have to be connected to constant 12V as the have a electronic circuit build in. There are two DIP switches in each light to select normal mode or advanced mode, one for rapid brake stobe and one for sequential turn signal. The integrated PIC, (Programmable Integrated Circuit) is a small computer chip with custom software programmed. In order for it to work properly, it needs constand 12V
That makes sense.

TCAT, do you still have the original lights? I'd be interested to find out if the battery still runs down with the originals back in place. It would rule out or verify bad units.
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Old 12-13-2012, 08:59 PM   #66
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I do still have the stock lights. When I have time, I should install them and double check everything.
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Old 12-13-2012, 09:21 PM   #67
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Keep us posted.

The curiosity is killing me, mine should be delivered in a few weeks and we'll see what they do in a '13 SS.
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Old 12-13-2012, 09:30 PM   #68
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Good luck and enjoy that 2013!! You'll love it I think.
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Old 12-13-2012, 09:54 PM   #69
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Love might be stretching a little but I do like it alot! It has some things about it that just really bug me, but I'll change what I can't live with.
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Old 12-13-2012, 10:03 PM   #70
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Lol. Yeah, no car is perfect and I have my gripes about this car too, but overall I really enjoy owning this car more than anyone I have ever had, even when it was completely stock.
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Old 12-13-2012, 10:17 PM   #71
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How do you like the Lambo doors? I may have to buy some for convenience and not looks. Our parking spaces are designed for smart cars and everyone drives hummers and semi's. I always end up with someone parked close to me and can only open my door half way.
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Old 12-13-2012, 10:19 PM   #72
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Unfortunately, they may not suite the needs your looking for because they have to open up horizontally half way before going vertical. The doors are just for aesthetics at car shows. I knew that going into it though and would get them again in a heartbeat.
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Old 12-13-2012, 10:32 PM   #73
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Yeah I knew they opened half way-ish, which is why I was considering it. I can only open half way in the lots anyway and at least it would swing up and hopefully allow more entry room.
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Old 12-13-2012, 10:42 PM   #74
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Very true . In that case, you should enjoy them. As long as they are installed correctly, the doors should be great for years to come. They've made my car easier to work on for certain mods I was installing.
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Old 12-13-2012, 11:00 PM   #75
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Actually I'm just trying to justify the expense by using limited space as an excuse.
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