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Old 12-11-2012, 09:50 AM   #35
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That code is for an internal PCM processor error or incomplete programming.

I wonder if the battery was low while they were trying to program it? That can cause an incomplete program error. Maybe while driving it, it gets to that spot in the programming that didn't write in correctly, then trips the problem and limp mode.

The service manual says no fix for it, just replace the PCM and full battery charge before programming the new one. Also nothing can interrupt the programming, no doors open, radio or HVAC on, hood open.... key on, and don't touch anything while programming. A wire problem at the ECM could also be an issue possibly, but I'd think that would cause more codes. Wouldn't hurt to check the connections and grounds.
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Old 12-11-2012, 11:18 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Russell James View Post
That code is for an internal PCM processor error or incomplete programming.

I wonder if the battery was low while they were trying to program it? That can cause an incomplete program error. Maybe while driving it, it gets to that spot in the programming that didn't write in correctly, then trips the problem and limp mode.

The service manual says no fix for it, just replace the PCM and full battery charge before programming the new one. Also nothing can interrupt the programming, no doors open, radio or HVAC on, hood open.... key on, and don't touch anything while programming. A wire problem at the ECM could also be an issue possibly, but I'd think that would cause more codes. Wouldn't hurt to check the connections and grounds.
Good points! The OP did mention the battery was dead when they tried to start it, which I suppose the programming was done prior to start which the battery was very low.

You also correct on not touching anything while writing to PCM. Once while we were making upload and my car was on the dyno, I had to close the door while writing and we ended up with lots of crazy codes.
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Old 12-11-2012, 11:44 AM   #37
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Good points! The OP did mention the battery was dead when they tried to start it, which I suppose the programming was done prior to start which the battery was very low.

You also correct on not touching anything while writing to PCM. Once while we were making upload and my car was on the dyno, I had to close the door while writing and we ended up with lots of crazy codes.
Yes when pat initially installed the base tune the battery was low. When he went to start the car the batt died after a few cranks. They hooked up a big charger and went to town on trying to get the battery juiced up.

Pat did reprogram/flash the PCM the next day when this code started poppin up but no luck. I thiink the best thing to do is start with the PCM and go from there. SNL ordered one. Yesterday while they were troubleshooting my car fried the bearings on their Dynocomm dyno
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Old 12-11-2012, 11:48 AM   #38
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Yes when pat initially installed the base tune the battery was low. When he went to start the car the batt died after a few cranks. They hooked up a big charger and went to town on trying to get the battery juiced up.

Pat did reprogram/flash the PCM the next day when this code started poppin up but no luck. I thiink the best thing to do is start with the PCM and go from there. SNL ordered one. Yesterday while they were troubleshooting my car fried the bearings on their Dynocomm dyno
I was also thinking of the "spike" you had mentioned before, which those big re-chargers can cause damage to the PCM.
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Old 12-11-2012, 11:59 AM   #39
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We have a special smart battery charger at work to use when programing Maxxforce truck engines. It puts out less noise into the electrical system. I didn't really buy into that whole deal and was updating an ECM on a customers truck and the battery was too low to allow a complete update. I used an ordinary charger set on 30 amps and continued the update like normal. The truck had some strange issues after this. Reprogrammed with the correct charger and all was well. Hope you figure this out, but I do know that battery chargers can cause issues when programing. A huge voltage spike might just be what caused your problem.
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Old 12-13-2012, 09:22 PM   #40
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Well SNL Performance in Ft Worth isolated the problem....i hope. They disconnected the aeromotive billet fuel pump speed controller and the Autometer tach adapter. Basically running the eliminator pump at high speed with out the speed controller and could not get the PCM to kick out the P0606 code at all. When ever the speed controller and tach adapter were still wired in but still bypassed with the manual bypass/override switch the code and limp mode happened everytime the throttle hit 75%.

Aeromotive has been great thru this whole ordeal and is sending a new speed controller.

Today, it was determined thru talking with the 5th gen expert at Autometer, that the signal from the coil wire to the autometer tach adapter had too much voltage/noise? Autometer was aware that this was an issue on the 5th gen but not on all of them....it is sporadic.

Autometer is sending a capacitor to wire inline to eliminate the interference with the PCM. This in combination with a new speed controller hopefully will allow this fuel system to feed my motor the way it should.
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Old 12-13-2012, 11:50 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BullF-16 View Post
Well SNL Performance in Ft Worth isolated the problem....i hope. They disconnected the aeromotive billet fuel pump speed controller and the Autometer tach adapter. Basically running the eliminator pump at high speed with out the speed controller and could not get the PCM to kick out the P0606 code at all. When ever the speed controller and tach adapter were still wired in but still bypassed with the manual bypass/override switch the code and limp mode happened everytime the throttle hit 75%.

Aeromotive has been great thru this whole ordeal and is sending a new speed controller.

Today, it was determined thru talking with the 5th gen expert at Autometer, that the signal from the coil wire to the autometer tach adapter had too much voltage/noise? Autometer was aware that this was an issue on the 5th gen but not on all of them....it is sporadic.

Autometer is sending a capacitor to wire inline to eliminate the interference with the PCM. This in combination with a new speed controller hopefully will allow this fuel system to feed my motor the way it should.
Did you end up using the new PCM?
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Old 12-14-2012, 10:48 AM   #42
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Did you end up using the new PCM?
Not yet, gonna see if the new controller and capacitor for the tach adapter solve the P0606 codes
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Old 12-14-2012, 10:55 AM   #43
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Subscribed. Good Luck BullF-16 from a fellow AF Jock.
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Old 12-14-2012, 07:14 PM   #44
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Subscribed. Good Luck BullF-16 from a fellow AF Jock.
Thanks Sack, are you at NFW?
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Old 12-14-2012, 07:35 PM   #45
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From Santa - GET RID OF ALL THOSE BANDAIDS

My recommendation:

**
Tach signal *is already in your ECM just turn it on and stop calling idiots that feed you lines of shit about noise and there poorly designed products.

Settings for your cal via Hp tuners or efi live.


Tach Output = Crank
Resolution - High =14
Resolution - Low =15

This will make the ECM output the correct frequency for a 2 pulse per revolution tach. The Duty cycle of the frequency will be 48.3%. 14/29

Tach output is on Pin 48 of the black connector.
You need to add a resistor (about 1k ohm) between the tach output and 12V to Pull-Up the Output signal to a usable voltage for aftermarket tach,shift light,nitrous controller,trans controller,datalogger,boost controller and even that hunk of billet fuel pump protector you got mounted to your floorboard.


Also go put an ls2 throttle body on it and get rid of those pos
Ls3 throttle body's.Required item!

Now go make some power.
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Old 12-14-2012, 08:05 PM   #46
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My recommendation:

**
Tach signal *is already in your ECM just turn it on and stop calling idiots that feed you lines of shit about noise and there poorly designed products.

Settings for your cal via Hp tuners or efi live.


Tach Output = Crank
Resolution - High =14
Resolution - Low =15

This will make the ECM output the correct frequency for a 2 pulse per revolution tach. The Duty cycle of the frequency will be 48.3%. 14/29

Tach output is on Pin 48 of the black connector.
You need to add a resistor (about 1k ohm) between the tach output and 12V to Pull-Up the Output signal to a usable voltage for aftermarket tach,shift light,nitrous controller,trans controller,datalogger,boost controller and even that hunk of billet fuel pump protector you got mounted to your floorboard.


Also go put an ls2 throttle body on it and get rid of those pos
Ls3 throttle body's.Required item!

Now go make some power.



Thanks Andy! will forward it where it needs to go. Bless you sir! I just want to drive my damn car again
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Old 12-14-2012, 08:19 PM   #47
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Thanks Andy! will forward it where it needs to go. Bless you sir! I just want to drive my damn car again
Hey Bull, can you tell Andy knows his stuff? Figures... He comes from an aviation background!!
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Old 12-14-2012, 08:52 PM   #48
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Hey Bull, can you tell Andy knows his stuff? Figures... He comes from an aviation background!!
Agreed!!!! About the best there is
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Old 12-14-2012, 09:29 PM   #49
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Are they not using a shielded cable for the tach signal?
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Old 12-14-2012, 11:00 PM   #50
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Hey Bull, can you tell Andy knows his stuff? Figures... He comes from an aviation background!!
Attention to detail! :-)

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Old 12-15-2012, 06:37 PM   #51
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Alright. Need some brainstorming here. Spent the last 2 days with my car down at SNL Performance. The motor is in, the Aeromotive eliminator, billet controller, return style fuel system is in a wired correctly. (Aeromotive needs to get their shit together in this respect!!!) Pump runs at low voltage until 5000rpm then kicks into high gear thru the speed controller.

All this went fine. We did the initial drivability tune (Pat Guerra is the tuner) about the best there is...google him!!

This was done thurday PM. Friday morning we figured out that a relay was required for the 16 gauge power wire to the FPSC. Without the relay the pump would fire up at key on, but the rail pressure would drop from 58 to 0 as soon as the motor started to crank. Basically, voltage at the FPSC would fall below 10.5 which we determined was necessary to power the FPSC. A relay fixed this problem and all was good with all the Aeromotive....the pump is loud, sounds like an ass ton of Africanized killer bees are in the back seat. (the back seat was not installed however.)

So heres the deal. Dyno runs went well. Pat G tuned it without the meth pump on and was conservative. We had major belt slip on the D1 at about 5300 rpm where the best run peaked at 690RWHP and 684RWTQ. This all happened at 5300 rpm then the curves went flat to 7000. I watched the boost gauge int he a pillar peak around 11-12 psi and fall flat at this point as the rpm climbed to 7000. You could smell the rubber belt burning.

I was pretty happy with 684RWTQ at 5300 and knew i could always upgrade to a 12 rib later. Oh BTW the MAP sensor is the stock 1 bar.

Pat G wanted to go for a final streetability drive with my driving.

First time i got on it, major TQ kicks in in 3rd....feather the throttle to get back in control then back on it to about 5000rpm. Then "reduced engine power" kills power and P0606 code is present. "PCM internal fault" is what this is. Pat has never seen this. He clears it and i try again...same result but at a little diff rpm. He clears it and again, same thing when getting on throttle.

Pat disables the code and we try again, but same result but no code is reported since he disable it.

We spent hours on this, he reset the entire pcm, reflashed the tune, i pulled PCM circuit breakes, we check grounds and the PCM harness at the connectors and all look good. Take it out again and same thing. it would "reduce engine power about 2 out of every 3 times when giving it gas.


Anyone out here seen this type of thing?

Plan is to bypass the Aeromotive speed contorller and run the pump full speed to see if its a contorller issue.

If that does not work, i want to get a new PCM and reload Pats tune and start with a fresh computer.

I think maybe my OE pcm just went tango uniform (tits up) when we deleted the OE fuel control computer when we went return style????

Lots of smart guys with lots of experience were consulted and all just scratched their heads and went "Hmmmmmm"


Pat g needs to re write the hex file! If he's as good as everyone says, then he should know how to do this.
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