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Camaro V8 LS3 / L99 Engine, Exhaust, and Bolt-Ons Bolt-Ons | Intakes | Exhaust

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Old 12-27-2012, 06:16 PM   #51
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Well i got my scoop and w/w bottle installed. I realized when going to mount my remote fill to my CAI housing, I didn't hey the (2) Black oxide cap screws with my kit. So I had to make due for now. Will be able to test everything out tomorrow morning on my way to work.
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Old 12-27-2012, 08:57 PM   #52
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Well i got my scoop and w/w bottle installed. I realized when going to mount my remote fill to my CAI housing, I didn't hey the (2) Black oxide cap screws with my kit. So I had to make due for now. Will be able to test everything out tomorrow morning on my way to work.
I didn't get those either, but I don't think they are using them anymore. But honestly that big black fill part is huge and doesn't need to be use. I paid a dollar or two for a hose plug at Lowes and drilled a tiny pilot hole for a breather.Then just routed the hose to a location where it is safe. When it is time to fill, pull the plug and use a small funnel.
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Old 12-28-2012, 05:37 AM   #53
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Well i got my scoop and w/w bottle installed. I realized when going to mount my remote fill to my CAI housing, I didn't hey the (2) Black oxide cap screws with my kit. So I had to make due for now. Will be able to test everything out tomorrow morning on my way to work.
Standing by to read what you think after you take it for a spin.
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Old 12-28-2012, 01:49 PM   #54
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Well tested out my car this morning on the highway alone (most of the time). I can definitely tell the difference from my stock intake. Soon as I hit the gas it took off. The sound is much meaner I especially did it when passing the one or two cars on the highway. Along wing my LED sidemarkers and the roar I'm sure I woke them up. This was at 4am, so I'm very pleased with my latest mod.
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Old 01-04-2013, 10:26 AM   #55
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Well tested out my car this morning on the highway alone (most of the time). I can definitely tell the difference from my stock intake. Soon as I hit the gas it took off. The sound is much meaner I especially did it when passing the one or two cars on the highway. Along wing my LED sidemarkers and the roar I'm sure I woke them up. This was at 4am, so I'm very pleased with my latest mod.
Congrats! Glad to hear you are happy with it.
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Old 01-08-2013, 07:52 AM   #56
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Chase, I will let you know. So far I do notice a difference with just the CAI installed.
Good to hear, thanks for choosing Cold Air Inductions Inc.! Post some pics for us to see if you get a chance!
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Old 01-09-2013, 01:12 AM   #57
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I received my intake from cold air inductions just this morning and got it installed withing 30 min, very easy!
I can definitely tell the difference between the stock and the CAI and i love it! the ways it sounds and takes off is amazing! definitely worth the money

one question though, the outsides of the tubes are supposed to be hot right? i think i read this somewhere but i cant find it n e where. sry if its a dumb ? lol just trying to educate myself :O
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Old 01-09-2013, 08:33 AM   #58
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I received my intake from cold air inductions just this morning and got it installed withing 30 min, very easy!
I can definitely tell the difference between the stock and the CAI and i love it! the ways it sounds and takes off is amazing! definitely worth the money

one question though, the outsides of the tubes are supposed to be hot right? i think i read this somewhere but i cant find it n e where. sry if its a dumb ? lol just trying to educate myself :O
Glad to hear that you are enjoying your new CAI from Cold Air Inductions Inc. so much! We really appreciate your business and support!

Our whole system is designed to keep the heat in the engine bay on the outside of our system as opposed to soaking thru to the intake air. That is why we ceramic coat our intake tubes and insulate our airbox. What these insulating factors do is keep the heat on the outside as opposed to soaking thru and increasing your IAT (Intake Air Temperature). So yes it is perfectly normal for the intake tube to be hot to the touch, and means our ceramic coating is doing its job. We are far more concerned with the IAT, which we can keep within 2 degrees of ambient with our insulating factors.

Let us know if you have any other questions, we are always more than happy to help!
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Old 01-09-2013, 03:29 PM   #59
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Glad to hear that you are enjoying your new CAI from Cold Air Inductions Inc. so much! We really appreciate your business and support!

Our whole system is designed to keep the heat in the engine bay on the outside of our system as opposed to soaking thru to the intake air. That is why we ceramic coat our intake tubes and insulate our airbox. What these insulating factors do is keep the heat on the outside as opposed to soaking thru and increasing your IAT (Intake Air Temperature). So yes it is perfectly normal for the intake tube to be hot to the touch, and means our ceramic coating is doing its job. We are far more concerned with the IAT, which we can keep within 2 degrees of ambient with our insulating factors.

Let us know if you have any other questions, we are always more than happy to help!
Yeah np! A great product deserves praise

And thanx for the reply, helped me out a lot
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Old 01-11-2013, 12:08 PM   #60
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Yeah np! A great product deserves praise

And thanx for the reply, helped me out a lot
Just glad I could help, enjoy your new toy!
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Old 02-11-2013, 05:21 PM   #61
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I would like to see a spectre 9909 intake get some love =p also someone to do dynos onit
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Old 02-12-2013, 06:52 AM   #62
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I would like to see a spectre 9909 intake get some love =p also someone to do dynos onit
V8 forum, so that probably isn't going to happen.
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Old 02-21-2013, 12:31 PM   #63
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I would like to see a spectre 9909 intake get some love =p also someone to do dynos onit
There was a separate V6 intake test but Spectre was not involved. They only tested systems if the manufacturer gave them the ok.
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Old 02-21-2013, 01:05 PM   #64
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I have a feeling we may have been duped into another Docu-mmercial thread j/k.

Chase - I know you are trying to keep it strictly informative.

Watch for the product placement cameos.
...and totally hot chicks........

We need to buy some of those.
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Old 02-21-2013, 02:40 PM   #65
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So vararam will have cooling problems because of the radiator placement? Just sold my k&n and was gunna buy a vararam so im trying to get as much info as possible, thanks.
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Old 02-21-2013, 02:50 PM   #66
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So vararam will have cooling problems because of the radiator placement? Just sold my k&n and was gunna buy a vararam so im trying to get as much info as possible, thanks.
Not necessarily but it is not optimal. The factory radiator is designed to be mounted vertically. More importantly in your case, is that Vararam does not offer an intake for 2012+ Camaros.
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Old 02-21-2013, 02:53 PM   #67
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Not necessarily but it is not optimal. The factory radiator is designed to be mounted vertically. More importantly in your case, is that Vararam does not offer an intake for 2012+ Camaros.
Oh shoot, then cai inc it is lol
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Old 02-21-2013, 07:14 PM   #68
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Oh shoot, then cai inc it is lol
Very good choice.
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Old 03-05-2013, 11:55 AM   #69
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so if i get cai inc with scoop, will i get more power if i remove the washer bottle?
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Old 03-05-2013, 12:05 PM   #70
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Old 03-05-2013, 02:47 PM   #71
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then cai inc it is lol
Trust me, you'll be very happy that you went with our CAI, I can promise you that! Thanks for your support!

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Very good choice.
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Old 03-05-2013, 03:02 PM   #72
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so if i get cai inc with scoop, will i get more power if i remove the washer bottle?
When you upgrade to the scoop the factory washer tank has to be removed/replaced. You will definitely feel and hear an improvement.
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Old 03-05-2013, 04:39 PM   #73
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Since this is a "general" air intake thread here are my personal findings:
Tested the Rotofab(simular to the Camaro but the camaro needs the bottle relocation were the G8 doesnt): other mods-Ported TB




Tested the Spectre(very simular to the Camaro intake): Other mods- 1 3/4 LTs/Ported TB/tune

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Old 03-15-2013, 05:38 PM   #74
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Oiled Air Intake Filters
By: Bill Hylton


When choosing an air filter for your vehicle, a very common question is whether a dry media filter (paper filter) or an oiled filter is the best choice. There has been much debate to this subject to determine which filter actually performs better, considering things such as filtration, airflow, longevity and overall performance. The debate has been fought from both sides and there is a lot confusion surrounding this subject but the filter of choice for the performance industry is the oiled filter.

One of the most common myths surrounding oiled filters is that they will cause problems with your MAF sensor. Oiled filters do not cause MAF sensor problems. Oiled filter owners that excessively oil their filters cause MAF sensor problems. This is no different than if you fill your vehicles engine with too much oil, causing damage to it. As long as the directions are adhered to when using your cleaning kit supplied by the manufacturer, you should have no problems. If you do end up with oil on your MAF it is an easy fix. Simply swing by your local parts store and pick up a can of MAF cleaner.

The 3 main requirements that were important to us are the same characteristics that are important to all consumers when choosing an air filter; those 3 items are filtration, air flow and longevity.


Filtration and Airflow:

In order for a dry media, paper air filter to filter dirt effectively, the filter and its fibers must be thick and densely compressed in order for them to filtrate up to industry standards. That being said, this denser and thicker media becomes more restrictive, not allowing air to flow as fast and efficiently as it could. Due to this restrictive media, over time, a dry media paper filter will build up with more and more dust and dirt particles. Once debris has built up to a certain point, the pressure inside the filter will drop while the air pressure outside the filter will remain the same. If the buildup gets too bad, and the difference in pressure becomes too great, it can result in a dry media paper filter to cave in or collapse on itself. In addition, an excessively high difference in pressure between the inside and outside of the filter, brought on by an overly clogged filter media, can literally pull dirt particles through the paper medium. This causes the air flow and filtration to decrease as the filter becomes more and more clogged.

In comparison, oiled filters include multiple layers of oiled cotton or gauze fabric which captures dirt and debris more effectively. The debris entering the filter will actually stick to the oiled fibers of the filter, and actually become part of the filtering media. This process, sometimes referred to as depth loading by some filter manufacturers, allows the filter to retain more dirt per square inch than a paper filter. On many oiled filters, the cotton or gauze fabric is then meshed between pleated aluminum screens. Pleating the layers of filter media increases the surface area which allows the filter to be in use longer, and capture more debris than a standard non oiled and/or non-pleated filter media.
As dust particles enter the filter they are stopped by the interwoven layers and are then captured in place through the oil. Dirt and debris that are retained on the surface of an oiled filter media have little effect on air flow because there are no small holes to clog like there would be on a paper filter media due to the interwoven layers. So when a paper filter starts to clog, an oiled filter media is still filtering debris just as effectively as when you purchased it, as well as retaining a higher level of airflow. This is due largely to the oiled filter media as well as the method that is used to hold the layers together.

When tested, oiled filter media will have less restricted flow when compared to a dry media paper filter on a flow bench test. Although an oiled filter media may have between 4 and 8 layers of filtration, it still flows faster and less restricted than a paper filter that is densely bound together. So while filtration is increased, the flow is also increased because of the manner in which the filter layers are constructed.


Longevity:

Another great reason to choose an oiled filter over a dry paper filter is for the longevity and cost savings it will provide you. On average, a paper filter should be replaced between 4,000 to 5,000 miles or every oil change. Typically the average cost of a paper filter is about $10 to $12. After one year of driving 15,000 miles, at least 3 paper filters are needed, this totals $30 to $35. An oiled filter will generally run from $25 to $50, but will never need to be replaced! Therefore an oiled filter will “pay itself off” so to speak in 1-2 years. As long as you plan on driving for more than another 2 years, your costs saving over the life of the vehicle will greatly add up, especially if you are paying for the labor to replace the filter at your dealer or local auto shop. Considering the fact that you may only need to “recharge” your oiled filter a few times during the course of its service life, and that It will never need to be replaced, it makes vehicle maintenance simpler and more affordable.
That could be the best article i have ever read here , You explained everything , except 1 , On a limited budget , Is it ok to buy a used CAI for about half the price of a new one? Or buy a new one from you? Thanks for all your informative posts , i been on this site for about a year now and really appericate your insight
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Old 03-15-2013, 07:12 PM   #75
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Oh shoot, then cai inc it is lol
rotofab or Haltech bud. just saying keep it plastic
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