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Old 01-08-2013, 09:50 PM   #1
CamaroRBT
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CamaroRBT JL Audio System + Ipad

Just placed an order or JL Audio C2650 component speakers, JL Audio Cleansweep CL442dsp, JL Audio jx360/2 Amp, crutchfield speaker adapters, dynamat, 12 awg speaker wire, JL powered bass knob, JL RCA cables and ipod to rca cable :-) Ive already got my JL Audio W3v3 12" bumping in the trunk. So ill post some pics when it all comes in. How do you guys think this is gonna sound?


UPDATE: I highly recommend using the JL Audio Cleansweep for your processing needs especially if you are a ipod user. Plug directly into the cleansweep and get amazing sound. I also highly recommend using the speaker brackets from crutchfield. They are light weight and clip right in. Takes all the guess work out of it and if your worried about the fact that its plastic, just do what i did and wrap it with dynamat.

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Old 01-08-2013, 10:36 PM   #2
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I'll just say good luck. I have never heard or read a single good review for the cleansweep. At worst, it will still sound better than the Boston system.

As far as tweeter location, I used the stock pods. I have seen others that mounted them on the arm rest area just above where the power mirror adjustment is located. Mounting them on the pillars could also be an option.
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Old 01-09-2013, 02:34 PM   #3
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does your car have BA system?
Why did you go with the cleansweep?
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Old 01-09-2013, 06:00 PM   #4
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jl system

I have a jl xd 600/1 pushing the stealthbox in the trunk and a xd400/4 and subthump harness.. C5 650'S IN THE FRONT DOORS... have not done the back yet... I like sticking with jl stuff.... some factory systems when amplified absolutely need the cleansweep but in my case I didn't think it would do much for me... sounds great and I haven't even changed my back deck speakers...yet!
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Old 01-09-2013, 08:46 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vtxretro02 View Post
some factory systems when amplified absolutely need the cleansweep but in my case I didn't think it would do much for me... sounds great and I haven't even changed my back deck speakers...yet!
The BA HU has a flat signal output so using a Cleansweep wouldn't make a lot of sense. You could simply get away with Hi/Low level speaker inputs or a LOC. If I were you, I would get a MS-8 or some kind of DSP since you have over $1000 worth of equipment being fed from a factory OEM head unit.
====

OP,
I think you made a pretty good choice on the DSP and components, they seem to compliment each other well based on price/performance. I'm building something very similar, almost to the T. If you install the DSP yourself make sure you've watched the youtube instructional vidoes by JLAudio. If not, make sure your dealer/installer watches the videos as a lot of installers struggle with this.

DSP:
Recommended to splice your factory HU harness for all 4 CH Fronts/Rears and run wire to the DSP. This is where the Subthump Non-BA RCA adapter will come in real handy.

Fronts/Tweets: (Adapters recommended)
The factory locations apparently suck and aren't optimal but they work just fine unless your ear has been trained by the Car Audio Gods from Germany. Plenty of threads showing Woofer/Tweeter installs and the C2-650 tweeters should fit without issues.

Rear/Deck:(Adapters recommended)
Pain in the ass. Pain in the ass. Pain in the ass.

Overall, I think you're going to love your system and the way it sounds. Keep us posted with pictures as your install progresses and good luck!
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Old 01-09-2013, 09:56 PM   #6
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I didn't think the rear deck 6x9 replacement was a PIA at all and absolutely crucial to a great sounding system IMO. Absolutely worth the time. Also while you have the rear deck out take the time to put sound deadening all over the rear deck metal. And at least do all around the front door speakers with deadening.
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Old 01-10-2013, 09:30 PM   #7
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My car is non BA. I am not even going to have rear speakers. Just components up front and my sub in the back. When you go to a concert the speakers are in front of you not behind. I thought i was all set but now i am reading that i may need a summoning device? Aww great. Anybody know?
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Old 01-10-2013, 09:41 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CamaroRBT View Post
My car is non BA. I am not even going to have rear speakers. Just components up front and my sub in the back. When you go to a concert the speakers are in front of you not behind. I thought i was all set but now i am reading that i may need a summoning device? Aww great. Anybody know?
I had read that somewhere myself. Are you opposed to Alpine? I would recommend an Alpine PXE-H650 or PXE-660 IMPRINT system if you're on a tight budget. You can pick one up on ebay for the same or less than the cleansweep + summer will cost you. My understanding is that with the cleansweep, you do not control system volume with the radio - you have to use the cleanswep control. That would make me pretty crazy.
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Old 01-11-2013, 07:15 PM   #9
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I am using Focal KRX2 components in the doors. Since the 2" tweeters wouldn't fit in the stock pods, I installed them in the door handle area just above the window buttons. There is plenty of room on the passenger side and on the driver's side I put it right where the mirror control was. I moved the mirror control farther up, cutting a whole for it with a Dremmel. Works out very good and has the tweeters facing more rearward. These are strong tweeters and setup this way is good for me as I have a bit of high frequency hearing loss from years of industrial construction.
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Old 01-11-2013, 07:44 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CamaroRBT View Post
My car is non BA. I am not even going to have rear speakers. Just components up front and my sub in the back. When you go to a concert the speakers are in front of you not behind. I thought i was all set but now i am reading that i may need a summoning device? Aww great. Anybody know?
No, you will not need a the Summing Device. Please check out this instructional video on how the Cleansweep and Summing Device work and when/where they are used.
Cleansweep Training

The Summing Device is used in situations where the OEM HU has a seperate output signal for a subwoofer and the CleanSweep is unable to capture that full signal range during calibration.
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Old 01-11-2013, 07:49 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by darkrider01 View Post
My understanding is that with the cleansweep, you do not control system volume with the radio - you have to use the cleanswep control. That would make me pretty crazy.
You have the option to just turn the CS volume control all the way up and use your OEM volume controls. The drawback is at low level volumes set on the OEM HU you may notice some distortion.
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Old 01-12-2013, 10:40 AM   #12
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I would not do a cleansweep, I did it in my camaro and took it back out for I didnt want the 2nd volume knob, and also BA or nonBA both have a flat EQ out of the radio, so I would just buy a nice high low, like a cache coe6 or something like that.
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Old 01-12-2013, 07:09 PM   #13
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Just waiting on my stuff to come in....... I hate waiting
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Old 01-12-2013, 07:34 PM   #14
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See with this system guys I am going after sound quality. I want to feel like im at a concert jamming out to some chevelle or linkin park. Ive done countless hours of research and feel this is the route i need to go. Both amps will be mounted right next to the battery to have the shortest power cables as possible. These amps wont by behind plexiglass with lights shining all over them. Not bashing those who do this its just not the route i want to go. Ive been there done that. Ive had three subs in a trunk of a car before. The main reason i bought this car was to go fast and i want to add as little weight as possible. When i built my sub box i used 1/2" mdf instead of 3/4" mdf. Sure its gonna flex more but i would rather save that weight. The box was built with the exact amount of cu.ft. for the sub. The sub is powered with the exact wattage that it calls for. I am using oxygen free speaker wire. Why? Cause it all makes a difference. The speaker wire from the crossover to the tweeder and 6 1/2" speaker is exactly the same length. Drivers and passengers side same length. The speaker wire from the amp to the crossovers will be the same length. Why? Cause it all makes a difference. So my main focus is least amount of added weight and the best sound quality as possible. "On a budget "
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Old 01-13-2013, 09:52 PM   #15
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Quote:
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and also BA or nonBA both have a flat EQ out of the radio
100% incorrect. But, it did give me a good laugh?

Please see the following post.
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Old 01-16-2013, 10:31 AM   #16
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Alright. Ive got it all wire up and working. Will post pics later. Ive got a slight alternator wine so i am gonna go back and make the cleansweep ground shorter and go straight to the chassis. Should fix the problem. I am tuning everything so it is all over the place. The amp gains are too high. I turn the knob a quarter of the way up and its already too loud. Maybe tonight it'll be done.
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Old 01-16-2013, 09:51 PM   #17
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Ok so today i mounted the volume knob and bass knob just in front of the cup holders, wired up my ipod cable to the cleansweep and 12v power to charge while playing. The noise i had in the system went away when i turned the gain down on the amp. Didnt even have to shorten the ground. I found the best sound out of my ipod with the "sound check" ipod option off and the ipod EQ set to "lounge". I will say this system sounds amazing. A month ago i hooked up my 12" w3 and got my signal from the rear speaker wire with a speaker wire to rca adapter. I thought the bass sounded great. I was happy with it but now after hearing the bass through the sound processor i now know this was worth the investment. Sounds sooo clean.
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Old 01-16-2013, 10:50 PM   #18
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Grats! I'm glad the CS worked out for you!

What volume value/number on your Headunit did you do the Calibration on the CS at?

Have you tried just turning the CS Volume knob all the way up and just using your headunit volume? Notice any issues with that?

Did you ever consider buying the PDIM and integrating the iOS device to avoid having to "switch" to the Aux source for your device?

How is the sound quality when using the Aux interface on the OEM headunit and connecting your iOS device using the headphone jack in the center console?

Any sound difference when using the "default" settings in your iOS device?
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Old 01-17-2013, 10:12 AM   #19
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I set the oem volume at 25, honestly i havent played with the oem radio all that much. I usually just listen to my ipod. But what i have heard the oem system sounds much better. Barely had to adjust treble and bass adjustments. Before getting the cleansweep i considered the jbl ms-8 but for the money difference and the fact that i usually just listen to my ipod i figured it wasnt worth it. Thats what i like about the cs, you can bypass the oem hu and plug directly into cs with your ipod.
Now the factory aux in the center console under the 12v outlet was just the mini plug not the usb. I removed it and ran my ipod charging cable through the newly acquired hole then connected to the 12v outlet. I did this because i didnt want to add any extra unnecessary holes if i didnt have to. Also this way there wernt any extra cords exposed.
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Old 01-17-2013, 11:40 AM   #20
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pics uploaded :-)
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Old 01-17-2013, 11:45 AM   #21
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Ive still got to make the wiring pretty but you get the idea.
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Old 01-17-2013, 11:30 PM   #22
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I know some may give you flak over wire management, but overall I think you did a great job especially in managing costs. Based on your knob mounts I think I'm going to do the same, looks great. The dynamat for the tweeters is another good idea I hadn't seen before. Grats man!

Where did mount the crossover? Any troubles fishing the speaker wire thru the door? Also, where did you mount the CS?
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Old 01-18-2013, 05:59 AM   #23
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Yea the next pic i put on here will be the finished amp wiring. Just need time to finish and that is hard to come by nowadays.i mounted the crossover dead center between the 6 1/2" speaker and the tweeder. Fits perfectly behind the interior panel. The speaker wire was difficult. Probably the hardest part of the whole install. There is no way to fish the new speaker wire in the old boot. On the cab side of the door jam just under the boot is a 9/16" hole with a black plastic plug. Pop that plug out and there is the first hole. For the hole in the door you have to make your own. This is hard, you have to basically get your drill bit and drill in the speaker hole to drill it. I used small drill bits all the way up to 1/2". Then use a rubber gromet to protect the wire from sheet metal. he hole location is just under the boot that enters the door. Then use some black wire loom to cover the wire and then fish by using black wire ties to the existing boot.
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Old 01-18-2013, 07:31 AM   #24
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Ordered some foam baffles for the front 6 1/2"s to protect them from the elements and to also try and get more mid bass out of them. I am planning on stiffening them up. If this affect the sound in a negative way then i will just cut the bottom out and be back to the sound i already had. We shall see
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Old 01-19-2013, 08:48 AM   #25
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Ok i got the foam baffles in and I ordered the 6 3/4" x 3" hoping there would be enough room. Well there is plenty of depth but it is just too big so today i ordered the 6 1/2" x 3 1/4" baffles. Should be perfect. I tested the foam with epoxy because i was afraid it would melt the foam but it works fine. Sooooo. The plan now is to get these new foam baffles, install them with the crutchfield brackets and epoxy it in there to stiffen and seal.
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