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Old 01-14-2013, 01:03 PM   #15
IOM Black Diamond
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Thanks for the wright up. It would be great to see the schematic
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Old 01-14-2013, 03:10 PM   #16
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Excellent job.
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Old 01-14-2013, 07:37 PM   #17
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Here is the schematic and parts list off to the side, enjoy 😏Name:  ImageUploadedByTapatalk1358210218.535672.jpg
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Old 01-14-2013, 09:57 PM   #18
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Thank you for posting the schematic now I have to go shopping
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Old 01-15-2013, 12:04 AM   #19
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That is freakin cool. Totally visiting Radio Shack this week.
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Old 01-15-2013, 08:21 AM   #20
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as a note to anyone tryin to build this, use a chip socket for the 555 timer. Those little timers are very heat sensitive and the soldering iron will melt the inside of it very fast. The first one i built was ok but the second would only work intermittently, after messing with it a few min we realized what went wrong. the shack sells a 2 pack of the chip sockets for 99 cents. well worth it! Also the variable resistor is set in the middle when you buy it and that is a little much delay so the lights wont work at all, after you wire it in turn the resistor all the way to the left which should be zero delay and start from there turning to the right until you get the desired delay.
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Old 01-15-2013, 10:36 AM   #21
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That is really awesome. Good Job on the post. Going to Radio Shack myself and trying this.
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Old 01-15-2013, 03:50 PM   #22
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This is great! And to think there is a 500% mark up on assemblies that do this exact thing... Crooks.
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Old 01-16-2013, 02:01 PM   #23
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that is a sweet setup, and great idea btw...looks good.

does anybody know the current draw of the lights? working on using a transistor (mosfet) as the switching portion vs the relay. i could go out and measure it, but its a little wet out right now.

thanks.
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Old 01-16-2013, 02:28 PM   #24
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Ohms Law comes in handy sometimes.
I=P/V
25 Watt bulb/12 Volts =2.08 A
5 Watt bulb/12 Volts = 0.41 A
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Old 01-16-2013, 03:00 PM   #25
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so what your saying is...

i kid i kid.

thanks, i've got a mosfet that should work with the max being 4A. i'll check it out.
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Old 01-16-2013, 04:12 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whitedemon View Post
My timers have 3 wires, ground, input and output. So i tapped in the outer light bulb ground for the ground wire and then cut the blinker bulb wire which was the yellow for left side and green for right side and installed the input-output wires to the bulb harness, all with solder and heat shrink joints of course. Then i turned on the hazard lights and used a pocket screwdriver to adjust the varable resistor until the delay was right where I wanted it. I was very pleased with the outcome of the project and I saved 80 bucks also
You stated and I see that there are three wires, but your schematic looks like there should be 4. Positive and negative (directly below the positive, I presume) and there looks like two connections from the normally open contacts from the relay. Am I missing something?

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Old 01-16-2013, 04:38 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LowFlyer View Post
You stated and I see that there are three wires, but your schematic looks like there should be 4. Positive and negative (directly below the positive, I presume) and there looks like two connections from the normally open contacts from the relay. Am I missing something?

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share the common ground and switch the positive side of the circuit (tail light) through the relay.
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Old 01-16-2013, 04:49 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hapisok View Post
that is a sweet setup, and great idea btw...looks good.

does anybody know the current draw of the lights? working on using a transistor (mosfet) as the switching portion vs the relay. i could go out and measure it, but its a little wet out right now.

thanks.
yeah if i was to build again i would use a transistor instead of the relay, would make it a little bit smaller and less app to go out i would think. But the relays was free and i knew they wouldnt have a problem with the current
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