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Old 01-24-2013, 09:15 PM   #15
zl1fun
 
Drives: 2013 ZL1 # 1029 black
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Not far at all! I have only seen 2 other ZL1's in the Peoria Area. I was pulling out on to the main road one day turning left just as another ZL1 was turning right from the other direction...what are the odds of that? It was cool.
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Old 02-13-2013, 04:56 PM   #16
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Very nice gains fellas!
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Old 02-13-2013, 09:18 PM   #17
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Yep, the pullies work well don't they....
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2.55 upper, 10" lower pullies, Innovators west billet hub and sfi balancer, solid blower drive isolator, 50 mm idler kit, full length S/S headers no cats, comp cams custom grind cam, comp roller rocker trunion kit, comp push rods,dual valve springs retainers and locks, Injector dynamics ID850 inectors, Rotofab ZL1 cold air kit, Lingenfelter 160 thermostat, Rotofab intercooler reservoir, stock plugs, LS7 90mm throttle body, GTO clutch reservoir mod, my own custom catch can, Tuning by Jannetty, install by me.
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Old 02-14-2013, 01:00 PM   #18
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Yep, the pullies work well don't they....
How much power you making?
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Old 02-14-2013, 01:06 PM   #19
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What all can we put on our cars and tune with a hand held programmer from a vendor? How much power can we make at the wheels auto and M6? Thanks guys!!
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Old 02-23-2013, 10:26 AM   #20
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How hard is it to change out the lower pulley yourself? I want to do it.
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Old 02-23-2013, 10:34 AM   #21
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How hard is it to change out the lower pulley yourself? I want to do it.
its not that bad but you need the right puller and installer. I would suggest that if you are at all nervous about the process, get a veteran installer to help or trust a professional
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Advanced Induction cylinder heads & B-3 cam (RPM) ARH 1 7/8" headers, MSD atomic air force intake. 575rwhp/500rwtq (conservative tune).
'12 ZL1 10.52@131 1.55 60' 2:13 VIR Full (sold)
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Old 02-23-2013, 10:47 AM   #22
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Thanks Stephen.
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Old 02-23-2013, 01:40 PM   #23
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here are the pulley install potential issues that people encounter. Removing the stock balancer bolt can be difficult as it is torqued to approx 230ft/lbs (37ft/lbs + 140 degrees). If your car is an automatic, the engine will turn and you have to use a tool to lock the engine at the flywheel once the starter is removed. Otherwise, you can use an air impact tool to remove this bolt (24mm). Next, the lower balancer must be removed using a puller like the OTC 6667. The A/C belt is a "stretch fit" and it will come off with the stock balancer. To reinstall: don't forget the seal on the snout of the balancer. Use a proper install tool like a hawk tool or equivalent threaded rod and nut/washer. You could use a longer M16 bolt but it is not advised as some have pulled the threads out of the crank this way. Make sure the keyway is aligned properly before install which is obvious. Torque the new GM bolt to 37ft/lbs + 140degrees or 235ft/lbs for an ARP(preferred) bolt. You must use a large torque wrench for this duty. Use Red Loctite if you want on the new bolt...there are opinions on this. Reinstall the a/c belt by rotating the crank bolt and pressing the belt with your fingers or use an install tool(no need IMO). Reinstall the accessory belt and the correct length supercharger belt for the ring diameter you chose. Make sure belt alignment is correct.
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'15 Z/28 #325 black a/c & stereo. 2:10.9 VIR Full 1:44.74 Summit Point Shenandoah Circuit
Advanced Induction cylinder heads & B-3 cam (RPM) ARH 1 7/8" headers, MSD atomic air force intake. 575rwhp/500rwtq (conservative tune).
'12 ZL1 10.52@131 1.55 60' 2:13 VIR Full (sold)
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Old 02-26-2013, 09:01 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BeardWS6 View Post
How much power you making?
Waiting for spring to get to the dyno. I hate to guess but it feels like about 10,000 hp..lol
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2.55 upper, 10" lower pullies, Innovators west billet hub and sfi balancer, solid blower drive isolator, 50 mm idler kit, full length S/S headers no cats, comp cams custom grind cam, comp roller rocker trunion kit, comp push rods,dual valve springs retainers and locks, Injector dynamics ID850 inectors, Rotofab ZL1 cold air kit, Lingenfelter 160 thermostat, Rotofab intercooler reservoir, stock plugs, LS7 90mm throttle body, GTO clutch reservoir mod, my own custom catch can, Tuning by Jannetty, install by me.
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Old 02-28-2013, 10:48 AM   #25
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guys question, with the 9.55 pulley doesnt it hit the lines that are right below the pulley? i was looking at a zl1 this morning with an ati balancer, and a 9.17 18% od lingenfelter pulley and it was damn close with that
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Old 02-28-2013, 11:18 AM   #26
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A 10" fits, so 9.5 would. My 10 is very close, but clears.
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2012 ZL1
2.55 upper, 10" lower pullies, Innovators west billet hub and sfi balancer, solid blower drive isolator, 50 mm idler kit, full length S/S headers no cats, comp cams custom grind cam, comp roller rocker trunion kit, comp push rods,dual valve springs retainers and locks, Injector dynamics ID850 inectors, Rotofab ZL1 cold air kit, Lingenfelter 160 thermostat, Rotofab intercooler reservoir, stock plugs, LS7 90mm throttle body, GTO clutch reservoir mod, my own custom catch can, Tuning by Jannetty, install by me.
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Old 03-20-2013, 02:37 PM   #27
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My 9.55 clears only because I removed the lines from the black plastic holder and zip tied them to the electric power steering assembly. Now they have plenty of clearance. This is the same on both the 2012 and 2013 I have worked on...my 2012 auto and Smitty's 2013 manual have the same line setup which I was surprised to see.
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'15 Z/28 #325 black a/c & stereo. 2:10.9 VIR Full 1:44.74 Summit Point Shenandoah Circuit
Advanced Induction cylinder heads & B-3 cam (RPM) ARH 1 7/8" headers, MSD atomic air force intake. 575rwhp/500rwtq (conservative tune).
'12 ZL1 10.52@131 1.55 60' 2:13 VIR Full (sold)
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Old 03-20-2013, 03:42 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by 2012ZL1 View Post
A 10" fits, so 9.5 would. My 10 is very close, but clears.
have you had yours on the dyno with the 10" lower and the 2.5 upper? im getting ready to do a similar set up but wasnt sure how the bottom end and the blower bearings would hold up to that
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