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Tuning / Diagnostics -- engine and transmission Tune and diagnostics for engines and auto transmission.

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Old 01-24-2013, 04:48 PM   #1
Beaukz28
 
Drives: 2010 2SS M6
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Torque Management/Trac Control

I have a 2010 SS w/ M6. It has a magnacharger, cam, hedders, 4:11 gears, and exhaust. It is pretty hard to get much traction in the 1st couple of gears. I see most peolpe just remove or disable the torque management. Has anyone played with tuning it to keep traction right on the edge? I am using efilive. Just got the charger install done last week. Right now everything is disabled from the last tune I had in. Thanks.
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Old 01-24-2013, 06:52 PM   #2
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You need more wheel/tire not less power. Might as well have left it stock if you want to remove power until you regain your traction.
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Old 01-24-2013, 07:48 PM   #3
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The 4:11 will cause a lot of traction problems, The maggie builds torque at low rpms, Would have been better off leaving the 3:45's in. Get some good sticky tires but expect stuff to break.
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Old 01-25-2013, 09:50 AM   #4
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Yea. I put the 4:11 in on a cam only car and 3 months later i was given a supercharger kit as a gift. otherwise i would have never replaced them. Synner, thanks for nothing. The power is fine in the upper gears. If i cut the power back down that will clearly limit all gear ranges. So the question was... Has anyone tried messing with the track control to limit wheel spin in the lower gears to maximize the power without blowing off the tires instead of just cutting power to all ranges? I will be working on it when it warms up here. I am sure someone else has played with it.
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Old 01-25-2013, 10:32 AM   #5
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I tried to, but you can't control what the BCM does with the brakes in the PCM tune...so I found that was a little obtrusive, and I felt like I was murdering the brakes letting the engine blow through them at full throttle.

There is a rev limiter based on vehicle speed that still works even when traction control is completely turned off, I was considering playing around with that to try to do something like this, especially since the competitive mode launch control is a steaming pile...but my car is in the garage until late March or even April, so I really can't give you more feedback on that, other than that it's a table with very limited resolution...so it probably won't work out for me lol.
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Old 01-25-2013, 10:41 AM   #6
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Synner, thanks for nothing.
No problem. Any time you need me to point out the correct solution for you to ignore you just let me know. I'm here for ya.
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Old 01-25-2013, 11:29 AM   #7
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No problem. Any time you need me to point out the correct solution for you to ignore you just let me know. I'm here for ya.
Now! Now! Play nice. In fairness to the OP you did answer a question he didn't ask. He asked if anone had played with the TQ Mgt in the tune - not "what solutions are available to give me beter traction?". While a little terse in his word choices - his reply to you was on point.
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Old 01-25-2013, 12:00 PM   #8
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It's all good. No harm done. It was more sarcasm. I respect anyone who spends there time trying to help anyone on here. Unfortunatly no body here has the luxury of knowing what someone elses level is. There are definately some who should leave the modifying to others. I clearly understand the limits of my car and how to make it work. wheels and tires are on the way. Just wanted to know if anyone has tried tuning the trac control to there advantage. Race cars have been using it for years to help control wheelspin on overpowered cars. None of them try going with less power than the competition to get an advantage.
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Old 01-25-2013, 12:11 PM   #9
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It's all good. No harm done..
I'm glad you asked the question. I'm no tuner but like to know as much about my car as possible. While I understand the theory about TQ Mgt I'd like to know more about its practical application. Maybe more folks like Mike OD will chime in so we can learn.
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Old 01-25-2013, 12:21 PM   #10
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I'm in the same boat. I installed 4.10's which were perfect when I was all motor but with my new magnacharger traction is zero in first and second. However, the 4.10's are awesome for rolling starts. I plan on doing some airstrip attack races (50mph rolling start, 1/2 mile run) this year where the 4.10's should really shine. I can pull on my buddies 575rwhp Nissan GT-R. So the 4.10s are staying but like you I need some help with the start from a dead stop.
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Old 01-25-2013, 12:30 PM   #11
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We'll as soon as this 0* weather blows out of here I will definately be playing with it. Until then I hope someone that has played with it can chime in.
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Old 02-01-2013, 03:25 PM   #12
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We'll as soon as this 0* weather blows out of here I will definately be playing with it. Until then I hope someone that has played with it can chime in.
That's my problem right now...and even when it warms up, I wait till the street sweepers and spring rain storms get the sand/salt/chemicals off the pavement...I've always had older cars with rusty corroded crap undersides to work on...this car is nice and clean underneath and I want it to stay that way lol.
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Old 02-02-2013, 09:46 AM   #13
Medi0cr3
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Corrosion can hit ya anywhere anytime tbh. Corrosion is the metals natural force to go back to its original state. Get some good corrosion preventative compounds and spray them.

Anode, Cathode, Electronic Bond, and Electrolytes are all part of the required chain for corrosion to form. Remove one of those and you remove corrosion. You've probably seen heads of bolts that are completely rusted an washers that have zero rust on them. That is an example of anode and cathode as of where your main component didn't rust. WD40 is decent in the civilian form, I'm sure there are other sprays or brush on measures that can be utilized. From an aviation background, I utilize 7 day to 30 day sprays for the "quick" fix to remove the electrolyte.

Best protection is to conduct preventative measures in the endless fight against corrosion.

Hope that helps for everybody during these winter months!
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Old 02-02-2013, 12:48 PM   #14
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Hmmmm curious myself. If like to see where this goes.
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Old 02-04-2013, 04:17 PM   #15
MikeOD

 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Medi0cr3 View Post
Corrosion can hit ya anywhere anytime tbh. Corrosion is the metals natural force to go back to its original state. Get some good corrosion preventative compounds and spray them.

Anode, Cathode, Electronic Bond, and Electrolytes are all part of the required chain for corrosion to form. Remove one of those and you remove corrosion. You've probably seen heads of bolts that are completely rusted an washers that have zero rust on them. That is an example of anode and cathode as of where your main component didn't rust. WD40 is decent in the civilian form, I'm sure there are other sprays or brush on measures that can be utilized. From an aviation background, I utilize 7 day to 30 day sprays for the "quick" fix to remove the electrolyte.

Best protection is to conduct preventative measures in the endless fight against corrosion.

Hope that helps for everybody during these winter months!
And what's the point? It's so much work to clean all the junk off the chassis that it will collect all winter long, even if I clean it all the time...I'd rather just drive a beater in the winter and not care about it. I've had a lot of cars, and I've lived in New England my whole life...leaving the car off the road for the winter is the easiest way to keep the chassis nice...sandblasting from the tires, and salt mixed with water/snow all winter long is abusive to the car no matter how you slice it.

Plus...testing traction control on filthy roads that have been below freezing for days on end is going to be about as productive as banging my head on the wall for 3 hours...the tires need a prayer of hooking before I bother testing.
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Old 02-16-2013, 12:05 PM   #16
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I guess I could have linked you to this. A lot of good info here. http://forum.efilive.com/showthread....Control-Tuning
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