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Old 03-10-2014, 09:57 PM   #1
Jerry7297
 
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2014 Heat extractor on a 2010 hood

Ok I am not the first person to do this but I thought I would give a little detail on how I did this. I would like to acknowledge the thread below. This is the only reason I found the part and went a head and did this. This was really not that hard but the first cuts are nerve racking. Just think about the beating you put on your engines when your haulin ass around town this is the equivalent just to your exterior lol.

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=337230

I would also like to thank member "thkfast" I asked him to give me measurements off his 2014 and he did very quickly and I don't even know him. I just saw that he had the heat extractor on his hood.


Tools needed:

Air compressor
Air cut off tool
Air saw (I used the $13 dollar one from Harbor freight)
At least one brand new air saw blade pack
Grinder
Drill
1/4” drill bit
Ratchet / socket
Tape Measure
Razor Knife
File
Torch
Sponge paint brush
Sharpie (marker)
Silver Sharpie (Optional)
Vise (Optional)

Materials needed:

1- GM 2014 Heat extractor (GM Part # 22828242)
Optional- GM- Water Deflector (GM Part # 23180572)
Painters tape
Drop cloths
Masking paper
Paint (I used Cold Galvanizing Paint)
6- M6-1.00 Nylon Lock nuts (I picked these up at Lowes they do not come with the extractor)
2- sticks of flat aluminum 3/4"X 4' (Got these at Lowes but they have at Home Depot also )
1- 2X4 (Optional)


To Do list:
1. Use one of the sides the box the extractor came in and trace the extractor to make a template.
2. Measure from the Under side of the vents to outside of the extractor. I used - .5" measure yours to double check.
3. Cut out the outside and inside of the template. Test fit the template until it fits with little play on the bottom of the extractor. (see the 1st and 2nd pic below) MORE INFO on template on this link - Post #199 & #200 http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...=346744&page=8
4. Measure from the windshield side of the hood down 16 -3/8” in a couple of different places and make a mark with a pencil or use painters tape to make a guide line. This is the beginning of the extractor mark. Not the hole mark.
5. Put the Template on the marks and from the edge of the hood to the top corners of the extractor measure 24-1/4” this will get you lined up very close. Also pay close attention to the front side to make sure the center line of the hood with the center of the extractor template. The side measurements are not exact you may get a little different measurements just use good judgement and center it up. Also note the measurement will be different in different areas of the extractor as it gets skimmer towards the front of the extractor.
6. Once you get the template on the mark and centered on the hood Tape the template down to the hood. and use a marker to mark the inside mark of the template. Then remove the template. (MAKE SURE ITS THE INSIDE NOT THE OUTSIDE OF THE TEMPLATE OR YOUR HOLE WILL BE TOO BIG)
7. Then tape up the hood on the inside and outside of the mark you made. Closest to the mark double tape it as you will be using the saw on that area and you don’t want to scratch your paint.
8. Then use the masking paper and tape to cover the rest of your hood.
9. Open your hood remove your engine cover use drop cloths to cover the engine fenders and the front fascia.
10. Put the 2X4 under the front of the hood use as a spacer just in case. I wanted to make sure I was a not close to any engine parts…
11. Remove your Hood liner.
12. Drill 2 holes in the top 2 corners. Use your air saw to cut out your template line. If you feel like the blade is getting dull replace it. I used about 5 blades to be sure. Some parts you are cutting through sheet metal and braces on the underneath side of the hood. Use your Air cut off tool if you want to make it through the parts with braces. I used it a lot on the front side cause you do cut into the bracing in the front of the hole and it is a little difficult with the saw. Test fit the extractor and use the grinder until the extractor sits in the hole flush and doesn’t rub on any sides.
13. Use your file and file down all burrs and edges.
14. Optional (hood is aluminum and will not rust but could corrode)- Use your choice of paint and the paint brush and paint all cut edges to make sure they do not rust. I chose the galvanizing paint.
15. Remove all painters tape and drop clothes.
16. Let the paint dry then reinstall your hood liner and close your hood. Make a mark on your hood liner through the hole you cut in your hood. A silver sharpie would work great on this. I didn’t have one on hand so I just used a black one and I was able to see the mark just fine. Then remove the hood liner again and cut out the mark. As long as you have a new blade in your razor knife this is easy.
17. Place the extractor in the hole and lift the hood. Hold your flat Aluminum up and mark it so that it goes about 2-3 inches past your hole at the front set of bolts on the extractor. Use your marker and mark the center line marks of the bolts.
18. Cut the flat aluminum the the length you marked and drill the holes out with a 1/4” drill bit.
19. Cut 2 small pieces of the Flat aluminum about 3". Drill a 1/4" hole in one side.
20. Get 2 of the M6-1.00 nuts and bolt on the aluminum pieces you just cut / drilled. Put the long piece on first then add the short ones going strait towards the front of the hood. This will hold the extractor in place for the rest of the measurements. (the short pieces going to the front hold down the front of the extractor and they are needed. I didn't put them on at first and it was tight enough in the front of the extractor. )
21. I took the 2 pieces of flat aluminum that were left and put about a 1/4 inch in a vise and heated up the aluminum and bent a 90 degree in it. Then remove it from the vise and heat it some more and use a hammer and hit it till its more like a 45 degree. Please note this step is optional you do not have to do this I just thought it was a good idea.
22. Hold the other 2 pieces up the the other extractor bolts and hook the 45 degree if you did that on the hood support beam and mark where to cut the other side. I went a little past the other side of the hoods identical support beam and mark where to cut, also mark the center of the 2 extractor bolts.
23. Cut and drill the other 2 flat pieces of aluminum, get 4 more nuts and install the pieces.
24. Reinstall the Hood liner.
25. Stand back and gaze at your hard work and drool….

Last edited by Jerry7297; 06-25-2014 at 02:56 PM.
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Old 03-10-2014, 09:57 PM   #2
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Old 03-10-2014, 09:57 PM   #3
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Old 03-10-2014, 09:58 PM   #4
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Last edited by Jerry7297; 03-14-2014 at 11:07 PM.
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Old 03-10-2014, 09:58 PM   #5
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Old 03-10-2014, 10:24 PM   #6
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Old 03-10-2014, 10:54 PM   #7
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Good job!
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Old 03-10-2014, 11:54 PM   #8
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nice work
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Old 03-11-2014, 08:19 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deftones View Post
Want
Its just a small hole you can do it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SSTG View Post
Good job!
Thank you

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nice work
Thank you I think it came out pretty good. Does anyone see a problem with water going onto the Throttle body???
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Old 03-11-2014, 09:15 AM   #10
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Adding this to the DIY Sticky! Thank you much for writing this up!
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Old 03-11-2014, 10:32 AM   #11
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Adding this to the DIY Sticky! Thank you much for writing this up!
No problem thank you sir.
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Old 03-11-2014, 05:43 PM   #12
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In the words of Goose from Top Gun, "Gutsiest move I've ever seen."

That looks great and nice write up!
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Old 03-11-2014, 11:01 PM   #13
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Nice write up! just ordered mine can't wait....

how is fitment does it sit nice and flat & smooth to hood?
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Old 03-11-2014, 11:35 PM   #14
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Nice write up! just ordered mine can't wait....

how is fitment does it sit nice and flat & smooth to hood?
It sits nice and flush as long as you get the hole you cut just right and it sits in there correctly. I feel like it could get a little more tight but it is solid. I just see some of the foam that is on the sides that sit on the top of the hood. I want to go to a dealership and check out a factory one. It seems like it is just the way it is designed. It doesnt move at all though.
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Old 03-12-2014, 11:20 AM   #15
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Could you also use the factory underside rain shield?
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Old 03-12-2014, 11:36 AM   #16
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extractor

you might want to try using a dremel oribital tool on high rpm with a metal cutting blade...it is very quick!!...I also suggest using a small bead of 3m window weld super fast urethane around the inside of the lip before you start cranking the unit down...this will insure a positive seal...also I would suggets removing the hood and using two saw horses with foam wrapped around them...this will insure the hood doesn't get bounced around or scratched...another idea is o have a piece made on the bottom of the hood to divert the water away from the top of the engine...here is what I did...be patient!!!
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Old 03-12-2014, 03:06 PM   #17
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Could you also use the factory underside rain shield?
I don't think so. Check out the way it mounts with push pins. It doesnt seem to deflect much water anyways. Anyone have any thoughts on that???


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Old 03-12-2014, 03:12 PM   #18
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you might want to try using a dremel oribital tool on high rpm with a metal cutting blade...it is very quick!!...I also suggest using a small bead of 3m window weld super fast urethane around the inside of the lip before you start cranking the unit down...this will insure a positive seal...also I would suggets removing the hood and using two saw horses with foam wrapped around them...this will insure the hood doesn't get bounced around or scratched...another idea is o have a piece made on the bottom of the hood to divert the water away from the top of the engine...here is what I did...be patient!!!

. I would like to see what you made. By no means do I think my way is best, it is more like the barbarian way. I am sure there will be plenty of good ideas pop up on this and that is great cause it is easy to take off and mount it a different way.

The saw horses is a good idea and I spoke to buddies about that before I did it but I did 85% of this work alone and to not remove the hood was ideal for me but if you have help to remove and realign it would make the cutting a little easier.
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Old 03-14-2014, 12:34 AM   #19
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I too would love to hear more concerning not having a rain/water deflector. I want to add a hood heat extractor to my 2011 1LT but its a daily driver and sees its fair share of rain.

I wouldn't want to cut up my hood just to wash out my engine in the rain. Thanks!
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Old 03-14-2014, 02:57 AM   #20
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Where did you order this part from? GM parts direct is selling for $87, but they want $21 in shipping. That's robbery.
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Old 03-14-2014, 08:15 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by Cmitopgun View Post
I too would love to hear more concerning not having a rain/water deflector. I want to add a hood heat extractor to my 2011 1LT but its a daily driver and sees its fair share of rain.

I wouldn't want to cut up my hood just to wash out my engine in the rain. Thanks!
I'm sure there is a way to make the deflector mount with the right fabricator doing the work. The only thing that water gets on that i am concerned a little about is the throttle body.

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Where did you order this part from? GM parts direct is selling for $87, but they want $21 in shipping. That's robbery.
I ordered mine on ebay from a dealer in TX. but it still cost me 103 total I think cause I had to pay taxes. But they are no longer listing them. $108 is about what they are going for everywhere I have seen.
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Old 03-14-2014, 08:31 AM   #22
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Where did you order this part from? GM parts direct is selling for $87, but they want $21 in shipping. That's robbery.
Check with Maureen from Rodgers Chevy, they give free shipping to anywhere in the continental US.
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Old 03-14-2014, 02:38 PM   #23
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i got mine for $108 shipped. thinking about getting the deflector. but like i said "thinking"
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Old 03-14-2014, 05:21 PM   #24
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Check with Maureen from Rodgers Chevy, they give free shipping to anywhere in the continental US.
What is Maureens Screen Name on here???
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Old 03-14-2014, 05:53 PM   #25
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What is Maureens Screen Name on here???

MaureenM@RodgersChevrolet
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