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Old 06-01-2013, 08:33 AM   #51
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Nice ride Libertyracer. Pic doesn't show the taillights? My problem is if I unplugged/disconnected the power, I'd probably forget to reconnect before taking off. So I'd end up driving with no taillights at all. That's why I'll use the battery tender if I leave it parked any extended period of time. I do love the look of these lights and its an annoying consequence, but I can deal with it!
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Old 06-05-2013, 09:36 PM   #52
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Afterburners

Here's a couple of shots of the Afterburner lights that will kill your battery after awhile. I've had tons of problems with them; mostly with them doing random displays and flickering sometimes while I'm driving around. I've paid to have new wiring harnesses put in 3 times AFTER the initial installation and they are still doing random flickering. I like the effect of them but I wish I could find a better version that's more reliable.
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Old 06-06-2013, 09:34 AM   #53
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Mine have been in for less than two weeks and the other day I was checking them out to find the passenger side inner lite bottom half circle out. Worked fine when I did install and not sure when it when out, but not even two weeks, come on. Now if I have to ship it back I'll have one stock taillight as a temp? Ridiculous. Here's a pic of after install, when all was fine, and a pic I took the other day.
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How long will I be without a taillight? One stock as a temp, how crazy will that look? If they send a new one I'll have to retint/clear/reinstall. Not very happy.
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Old 06-07-2013, 11:19 PM   #54
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Got an email response today with instructions to fix the problem. Will give it a try tomorrow or Sunday. Seems like an easy fix.
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Old 06-08-2013, 11:55 AM   #55
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Followed the instructions provided in the email and it literally took less than five minutes to fix! Noticed that when the light was reinserted a couple of the wires pinched at the lower nut which probably pulled and loosened the connection. Anyway, she's all fixed and the lights look perfect! Just glad it only happened to the inner light, the outer ones have very little room and are very difficult to remove.
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Old 06-24-2013, 09:14 AM   #56
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Old 06-24-2013, 09:18 AM   #57
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sub
Huh, excuse my ignorance, what does sub mean?
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Old 06-24-2013, 10:34 AM   #58
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Huh, excuse my ignorance, what does sub mean?
"Subscribed" . . . you can do that so every time there is a new post you are notified.
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Old 06-24-2013, 03:27 PM   #59
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I want to thank all of you for this discussion. The one mod that I like is the
Technostalgia lamps. When I get my car back from it's XPEL ultimate full wrap
I'll order these out and see if I can come up with a solution or follow yours.
Thanks folks!
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Old 06-24-2013, 05:02 PM   #60
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Originally Posted by Sugar's ZL1 View Post
I want to thank all of you for this discussion. The one mod that I like is the
Technostalgia lamps. When I get my car back from it's XPEL ultimate full wrap
I'll order these out and see if I can come up with a solution or follow yours.
Thanks folks!
I love these taillights. Haven't had a problem either, but many have, and if I ever have to let the car sit for an extended period of time I'll use a battery tender. Deke736 has in his build thread detailed info on how he wired his up (key on/acc) and that's a permanent solution. No battery drain whatsoever! They are pricey, I wouldn't doubt some folks are selling theirs at a good price because of battery issues.
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Old 07-21-2013, 11:20 AM   #61
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Thanks for the thorough job on diagnosing and fixing the problem. I'm in Afghanistan right now and my wife was freaked out when I called because the key was stuck in the ignition and the car won't start. I'll need to rewire my techno lights when I get back...
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Old 03-03-2014, 02:37 PM   #62
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Thanks again for the advice! The taillights did go into show mode, which now makes sense with the low battery.

I'm curious though why I would need charge the battery on a charger from the front posts and not directly to the battery? Is there a difference?
There is a difference. Compared to charging the battery with the leads off, when you use the posts under the hood, you are also connected to all the accessories and automatic-anythings that happen when the car starts to get power. Once had a dead battery and used a trickle charger to try to get'er going again instead of climbing through car to pop trunk, etc. cha cha. Sounds really convenient until I tried to get it going and the middle dash display (computer display) would like up, some other things would whirrrr and then the charger's relay would pop (self protect I guess) and stop charging. It would cycle like this forever, with the battery never getting enough juice to break the cycle. It's a small charger so that may be the problem, and meant to keep a partially or fully charged battery fully charged, not rescue the dead.
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Old 03-03-2014, 08:28 PM   #63
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I didn't read every reply but there is a way to get your key out when this happens. The how to is in your owners manual. There's an electric release that you have to manually release under the column.
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Old 03-03-2014, 08:30 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackswan View Post
There is a difference. Compared to charging the battery with the leads off, when you use the posts under the hood, you are also connected to all the accessories and automatic-anythings that happen when the car starts to get power. Once had a dead battery and used a trickle charger to try to get'er going again instead of climbing through car to pop trunk, etc. cha cha. Sounds really convenient until I tried to get it going and the middle dash display (computer display) would like up, some other things would whirrrr and then the charger's relay would pop (self protect I guess) and stop charging. It would cycle like this forever, with the battery never getting enough juice to break the cycle. It's a small charger so that may be the problem, and meant to keep a partially or fully charged battery fully charged, not rescue the dead.
I may be wrong but the red post under the hood is directly wired to the battery
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Old 03-04-2014, 09:19 AM   #65
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Invest in a Battery Tender Jr. for the winter months, or anytime you're letting the car sit for long periods of time. It doesn't overcharge.
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Old 03-04-2014, 09:47 AM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackswan View Post
There is a difference. Compared to charging the battery with the leads off, when you use the posts under the hood, you are also connected to all the accessories and automatic-anythings that happen when the car starts to get power. Once had a dead battery and used a trickle charger to try to get'er going again instead of climbing through car to pop trunk, etc. cha cha. Sounds really convenient until I tried to get it going and the middle dash display (computer display) would like up, some other things would whirrrr and then the charger's relay would pop (self protect I guess) and stop charging. It would cycle like this forever, with the battery never getting enough juice to break the cycle. It's a small charger so that may be the problem, and meant to keep a partially or fully charged battery fully charged, not rescue the dead.
I don't believe the remote battery posts under the hood provide any power to anything. I think they're just there to provide a "remote" connection to the battery, as with the car off I attached a multimeter to the remote posts and it did not register any volts, when I then attached the multmeter to the battery it registered volage.
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Old 03-04-2014, 06:34 PM   #67
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Originally Posted by camguynj View Post
I don't believe the remote battery posts under the hood provide any power to anything. I think they're just there to provide a "remote" connection to the battery, as with the car off I attached a multimeter to the remote posts and it did not register any volts, when I then attached the multmeter to the battery it registered volage.
Positive red post under hood is for jump starting and charging the battery it is a direct connection to battery. Key on or off it's always connected.
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Old 03-04-2014, 09:41 PM   #68
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They put the Positive post lead (red post) under the hood so you can get to it when the vehicle needs jump start or charged when the Battery is dead and you can't open the trunk!
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Old 03-06-2014, 12:39 PM   #69
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Originally Posted by camguynj View Post
I don't believe the remote battery posts under the hood provide any power to anything. I think they're just there to provide a "remote" connection to the battery, as with the car off I attached a multimeter to the remote posts and it did not register any volts, when I then attached the multmeter to the battery it registered volage.
Definitely is connected to other things. Remove the securing bolt and you will see another lead from the same post going to the engine.

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Old 03-06-2014, 01:01 PM   #70
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Definitely is connected to other things. Remove the securing bolt and you will see another lead toward at he engine.
I think that's the negative ground wire going thru the same harness.
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Old 03-06-2014, 02:27 PM   #71
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Another lead connected to the same positive lead terminal better not be negative!

Wonder if we are referring to same post, will take a pic. It has a red battery terminal style cap and a not underneath which is actually a bolt
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Old 03-08-2014, 05:50 PM   #72
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Another lead connected to the same positive lead terminal better not be negative!

Wonder if we are referring to same post, will take a pic. It has a red battery terminal style cap and a not underneath which is actually a bolt
Took a look today. Yea saw what you're talking about. Definitly a another red postive lead. I saw it's attached to the frame and runs over to the passenger side so I would think it goes to the starter as that's where the starter is located.
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