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Old 02-12-2013, 11:12 PM   #1
PMJ
Seeking 9s on M6...
 
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Forged & stroked LS3

So I snapped an ARP balancer bolt off in my crank while installing a new cam...so now I've gone off the deep end and planning to go all in. Here's my plan, so looking for thoughts. Nothing purchased yet, but may buy the 416 rotating assembly tomorrow.

So i'm planning to rebuild my lower end with Wiseco 15cc pistons, Callie's compstar 4.0" crank with h-beam compstar rods, and upgraded thick wall pins. I'm expecting this to put me around 9.8:1...was trying to be around 9.5:1. I have my eye on a used set that my builder will inspect before I purchase.

I live in Houston and am planning to have Halston Harris @ H Squared Racing build my 416 bottom end. - Any feedback on Halston, he came from HKE.

I have a whipple, so i'm planning to add Innovations West 10 rib conversion kit w/ 10% overdrive and possibly a 3" whipple pulley. (~18psi)

I'm planning to get my heads ported. I've heard porting the LS3 heads w/FI doesn't help much, but Brian Tooley says ported LS3 heads with a 50 degree exhaust valve job will make significant power improvements w/FI.

Then i need to look at my drive train. Right now i'm all stock. I hear axels will go first??? My original plan was to fix them as they break...that's when i was expecting to be around 700 rwhp (before any of the above). Now i'm shooting for 800+ rwhp...so I've got my eye on the DSS 9" diff package that includes axels and drive shaft...pricey, but do I have an option? I'm thinking pieces may start flying if i don't change them now???

Oh, I'll also finally be installing my McLeod RTX clutch that's been sitting in my garage for a while.

Any comments on folks who have gone down this path, i'm always looking for opinions, suggestions or concurance that i'm on the right path...

- Pat
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Old 02-13-2013, 12:22 AM   #2
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Check out Gforce1320 for the rear, axles, and driveshaft.

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=230985
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Old 02-13-2013, 01:52 AM   #3
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Looks like a good list. Only thing I would recommend is instead of porting the heads maybe do aftermarket PRC or Mast. With 18psi the 3/4 thick deck will help you from lifting them. Maybe even need 1/2inch head studs as well with that kind of boost from a Whipple on a 416. LS9 head gaskets as well. Talk to your builder about it and see what he thinks. Last thing you want to do is push water and blow a 10K motor. I also think you have no choice on rear end. Your going to need a 9inch or 12 bolt with that much power from a M6 car.
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Old 02-13-2013, 02:16 AM   #4
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+1 for gforce1320 can't go wrong with a lifetime warranty
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Old 02-13-2013, 05:40 AM   #5
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Damn bud your in Houston! LME ftw! I wish I was there they would of built my 416! Lol

Also get the ARP main studs, it's cheap insurance for about 120 bucks.
Brian Tooley used to own TEA I'm SURE he knows "flow" lol I would not hesitate listening to that mans suggestions. His lifters and Valve springs are second to non as well.

On my 416 I had all the bearings coated ie rod,main and cam it's also cheap insurance because alot of wear is made on that first damn start up AND the other reason it frees up a lil HP.

I also had my piston skirts coated because there is wear on stroker motors at BDC and that factory coating just isint enough.

Vader is right on the rearend and Drivetrain.

Your on the right path bud!
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2001 ws6, 40k miles, Ls3 416 stroker, short block built by PER the rest by me. LPE Ls3 heads milled to 12-1 comp, FAST 102, NW 102, kooks 2", dual DMH cutouts, Magnaflow C/B, BTR cam + springs. Full UMI suspension.
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Old 02-13-2013, 08:58 PM   #6
Mchlgrrsn
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I did the DSS 9 conversion, well worth it. With ported heads you will run less boost, which is not a bad thing. Your going to need a dual fuel pump and bigger injectors, bigger injectors will let you raise the rev limiter. Sounds like your going to have a bad ass ride. Enjoy.
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Old 02-13-2013, 09:01 PM   #7
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sounds like a lot of fun. you are obligated to post your engine porn as it progresses!
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Old 02-13-2013, 09:32 PM   #8
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I beam rods.
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Old 02-13-2013, 10:11 PM   #9
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Wow! An ARP bolt broke off in the crank? Let me guess, the spark plugs were still installed?
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Old 02-13-2013, 10:49 PM   #10
PMJ
Seeking 9s on M6...
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VADER SS L99 View Post
...Only thing I would recommend is instead of porting the heads maybe do aftermarket PRC or Mast. With 18psi the 3/4 thick deck will help you from lifting them.
I followed up w/Brian on ported LS3 vs. aftermarket...he says he's put ported LS3 heads w/LS9 gaskets on 1000+hp w/out issue. I guess aftermarket heads have bronze guides which require roller rockers to prevent guide wear. The roller rockers then require more spring pressure to control. The increased spring pressure requires stiffer pushrods to prevent deflection, and so on. I already have a set of Brian Tooley springs, trunions & push rods (when i did the cam), so I'm going to stick w/the LS3 ported heads to Brian's specification. - I appreciate the recommendation...i was wondering the same thing.

Quote:
Originally Posted by litle88 View Post
Damn bud your in Houston! LME ftw! I wish I was there they would of built my 416! Lol

Also get the ARP main studs, it's cheap insurance for about 120 bucks.
Brian Tooley used to own TEA I'm SURE he knows "flow" lol I would not hesitate listening to that mans suggestions. His lifters and Valve springs are second to non as well.

On my 416 I had all the bearings coated ie rod,main and cam it's also cheap insurance because alot of wear is made on that first damn start up AND the other reason it frees up a lil HP.

I also had my piston skirts coated because there is wear on stroker motors at BDC and that factory coating just isint enough.
I think I'm set on H Squared...one benefit is they are close to my house, and I really like talking w/Halston. Going to check out his shop saturday...

I will do the ARP main studs, coat the bearings, rod, main & cam. I will also have my pistons coated. Thanks for the suggestions.

Re: Brian, yes he is a great guy to talk to. I highly recommend anyone considering CAM or heads to call him! I am going to stick with his advice on porting my heads. Halston has already confirmed he can port them to Brian's specs.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mchlgrrsn View Post
I did the DSS 9 conversion, well worth it. With ported heads you will run less boost, which is not a bad thing. Your going to need a dual fuel pump and bigger injectors, bigger injectors will let you raise the rev limiter. Sounds like your going to have a bad ass ride. Enjoy.
So both my "hot rod" consultant (my friend that does my tuning) and my builder are cheap ... They both recommend against changing out the rear end. They recommend a few minor modification and wait and see approach. I'm going to talk to the both on Saturday...If I know its going to break, I don't see why not replace it now...but they are trying to convince me it may not break...

I installed FIC1000 injectors w/my cam, so I should be all set there...regarding fuel pump...I'm taking a little bit of risk here...I have the ADM FPCM, ZL1 pump, a BAP (may or may not use), and an Alky control meth kit. I'm going to have multiple pulleys on hand as we tune so we can start with 10psi boost and work our way up. I'll see what this setup will do for me...and if necessary will do some additional fuel upgrade. (I do have a AFR guage and a knock alert light, so I at least have a false sense of security )

Quote:
Originally Posted by SPCBA View Post
sounds like a lot of fun. you are obligated to post your engine porn as it progresses!
I think i can do that...I'll start pulling the engine Saturday after my visit to H Squared Racing.

Quote:
Originally Posted by LSX Camaro View Post
Wow! An ARP bolt broke off in the crank? Let me guess, the spark plugs were still installed?
I have another thread about my ARP bolt woes... but you'll have to enlighten me with the spark plugs being an issue??? First time i've heard that. Yes, they were in, but the car was also in gear at the time to prevent the crank from spinning, so I'm not seeing the correlations.

I think the root of my bolt problem was using the ARP bolt to press on the balancer (although based on my sequence of events, i'm not sure that was the issue...I also have a theory my torque wrench calibration may be off and i may have over torqued it - if you can over torque 240ft/lbs)...



My wife is still trying to figure out how a broken $30 bolt is resulting in $5-10K of repairs .


...
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Old 02-14-2013, 05:20 AM   #11
litle88
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Lmao about the wife! Same thing with my 4th gen build in my sig after a valve spring broke lol.

Yes Brian is great! Good for you!
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2001 ws6, 40k miles, Ls3 416 stroker, short block built by PER the rest by me. LPE Ls3 heads milled to 12-1 comp, FAST 102, NW 102, kooks 2", dual DMH cutouts, Magnaflow C/B, BTR cam + springs. Full UMI suspension.
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Old 02-14-2013, 09:38 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PMJ View Post
So I snapped an ARP balancer bolt off in my crank while installing a new cam...so now I've gone off the deep end and planning to go all in. Here's my plan, so looking for thoughts. Nothing purchased yet, but may buy the 416 rotating assembly tomorrow.

So i'm planning to rebuild my lower end with Wiseco 15cc pistons, Callie's compstar 4.0" crank with h-beam compstar rods, and upgraded thick wall pins. I'm expecting this to put me around 9.8:1...was trying to be around 9.5:1. I have my eye on a used set that my builder will inspect before I purchase.

I live in Houston and am planning to have Halston Harris @ H Squared Racing build my 416 bottom end. - Any feedback on Halston, he came from HKE.

I have a whipple, so i'm planning to add Innovations West 10 rib conversion kit w/ 10% overdrive and possibly a 3" whipple pulley. (~18psi)

I'm planning to get my heads ported. I've heard porting the LS3 heads w/FI doesn't help much, but Brian Tooley says ported LS3 heads with a 50 degree exhaust valve job will make significant power improvements w/FI.

Then i need to look at my drive train. Right now i'm all stock. I hear axels will go first??? My original plan was to fix them as they break...that's when i was expecting to be around 700 rwhp (before any of the above). Now i'm shooting for 800+ rwhp...so I've got my eye on the DSS 9" diff package that includes axels and drive shaft...pricey, but do I have an option? I'm thinking pieces may start flying if i don't change them now???

Oh, I'll also finally be installing my McLeod RTX clutch that's been sitting in my garage for a while.

Any comments on folks who have gone down this path, i'm always looking for opinions, suggestions or concurance that i'm on the right path...

- Pat
The 50 degree valve job would be interesting to see. A lot of people would recommend against it as it typically wears the seat out more than a typical 45 degree, especially on the exhaust, but it should make quite a gain in a Forced Induction combo. We've stayed with a 45 degree valve job with our 700whp ZL1's, and that's still with the stock 6.2L shortblock and about 16psi.
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Old 02-14-2013, 06:10 PM   #13
Mchlgrrsn
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I think we are all in the same boat about wives. My wife cant figure out why it takes 3 months to do an oil change LOL. She does wonder why the car keeps getting louder and faster, I tell her its her imagination. She thinks my tuner works on the car for free because its on his web site. She thinks I'm contractly obligated to go to the track, luckily if anything breaks he fixes it for free .. then when all else fails there is the long line of concessions, curtails , shoes , jewlery and then the big one, actually spending quality time with her.
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Old 02-15-2013, 11:49 PM   #14
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Its almost like having a girl on the side my wife has even threatened to check my bank acct I have to get creative when buying parts or receiving stuff in the mail
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