Towels, Applicators, Mitts, Etc...,

[Tecca]

..

[Halo2]

Griots solves all of these issues.

[Moose]

www.zainobros.com also has most of what you'll need.

I prefer their applicators, and towels. And they offer the bucket as well.

(Griots is good too.)

[Timberline]

You can get everything you listed from virtually anywhere...Target, Wal-mart, any auto parts store Autozone, ORiley's, NAPA.................... no need to pay more from mail order.

[Moose]

Originally Posted by Timberline

You can get everything you listed from virtually anywhere...Target, Wal-mart, any auto parts store Autozone, ORiley's, NAPA.................... no need to pay more from mail order.

You can, but unless you spend a little more money on quality materials, ie; wash mitts, towels, applicators, the time and effort put into polsihing your car may be wasted if the products scratches during washing, polish removal, etc...

[Nexus6]

Originally Posted by Moose

You can, but unless you spend a little more money on quality materials, ie; wash mitts, towels, applicators, the time and effort put into polsihing your car may be wasted if the products scratches during washing, polish removal, etc...

QFT!

I try not to buy anything from walrmart anyway.I think poor Sam is rolling over in his grave.

[Timberline]

I have show cars and show them all of the time including Black vehicles and they are all like mirrors. It is all about technique, applying and removal. Rule # 1 make sure the wash mits towels etc.....are Clean !!! I if I think the towel is the least bit dirty I change up to another clean one. When I detail a car I use more than two towels.....could be up to 10+ before I am done with my black show car.

[Angelo@Autopia]

Here's my take and I hope it helps some of you in maintaining your ride. You would be surprised how much good you can do your car's finish just by washing it. Aside from maintaining the oil and keeping a coat of wax or sealant on the surface, routine washing is the most beneficial treatment you can give your vehicle.

Armed with two bucket's with grit guards and hose, here are the proper steps to make car washing easier:

1. If possible, work in the shade, out of direct sunlight. Elevated paint temperatures cause the wash and rinse water to evaporate too quickly, increasing the likelihood of water spotting.

2. Start by preparing a bucket with clean water and wash the wheels first with a proper wheel wash and brushes too. This prevents you from splattering cleaners, dirt and brake dust on already cleaned panels.

In addition to oily, road grime, wheels get coated with black, metallic, dust particles every time you brake. Car wash shampoos alone may not have the power to remove this baked-on combination. Many inexpensive wheel cleaners use an acid or petroleum solvent to dissolve this bonded contamination but these cleaners can stain alloy and anodized wheels. I use a item that works great and safe for your rims (P21S Wheel Cleaner).

3. Pre-rinse the entire vehicle. This quick rinse removes surface dirt and lowers the paint's temperature.
4. Now prepare another bucket with your favorite car wash shampoo. I also place a Grit Guard in the bottom of my wash bucket. (You'll be amazed at what you'll find in the bottom of the bucket after washing!)
5. Wash the vehicle from the top down. I use either The Bone , a Microfiber Wash Pad or a sheepskin wash mitt.
6. Rinse often during washing. After washing a section (i.e. door, fender, hood, etc.) rinse completely to prevent soap films from drying on the finish.
Detailing Secret #2 - After washing the entire vehicle, do a final rinse with free-flowing water (nozzle off the hose). This sheets most of the water off the vehicle. Trust me on this. I know it takes a minute to take the nozzle off the hose and do this final rinse but it will allow you to dry your vehicle in a fraction of time you would normally require.

7. Dry the vehicle like you washed it, from the top down. I do the roof first, then all the windows, the hood and trunk and finish with the sides. I use a leaf blowner to speed the process and then a waffle weave drying towel to finish it off.

Hope this helps you all out.

[Timberline]

Originally Posted by Mr G

Here's my take and I hope it helps some of you in maintaining your ride. You would be surprised how much good you can do your car's finish just by washing it. Aside from maintaining the oil and keeping a coat of wax or sealant on the surface, routine washing is the most beneficial treatment you can give your vehicle.

Armed with two bucket's with grit guards and hose, here are the proper steps to make car washing easier:

1. If possible, work in the shade, out of direct sunlight. Elevated paint temperatures cause the wash and rinse water to evaporate too quickly, increasing the likelihood of water spotting.

2. Start by preparing a bucket with clean water and wash the wheels first with a proper wheel wash and brushes too. This prevents you from splattering cleaners, dirt and brake dust on already cleaned panels.

In addition to oily, road grime, wheels get coated with black, metallic, dust particles every time you brake. Car wash shampoos alone may not have the power to remove this baked-on combination. Many inexpensive wheel cleaners use an acid or petroleum solvent to dissolve this bonded contamination but these cleaners can stain alloy and anodized wheels. I use a item that works great and safe for your rims (P21S Wheel Cleaner).

3. Pre-rinse the entire vehicle. This quick rinse removes surface dirt and lowers the paint's temperature.
4. Now prepare another bucket with your favorite car wash shampoo. I also place a Grit Guard in the bottom of my wash bucket. (You'll be amazed at what you'll find in the bottom of the bucket after washing!)
5. Wash the vehicle from the top down. I use either The Bone , a Microfiber Wash Pad or a sheepskin wash mitt.
6. Rinse often during washing. After washing a section (i.e. door, fender, hood, etc.) rinse completely to prevent soap films from drying on the finish.
Detailing Secret #2 - After washing the entire vehicle, do a final rinse with free-flowing water (nozzle off the hose). This sheets most of the water off the vehicle. Trust me on this. I know it takes a minute to take the nozzle off the hose and do this final rinse but it will allow you to dry your vehicle in a fraction of time you would normally require.

7. Dry the vehicle like you washed it, from the top down. I do the roof first, then all the windows, the hood and trunk and finish with the sides. I use a leaf blowner to speed the process and then a waffle weave drying towel to finish it off.

Hope this helps you all out.

well said

[SirBrad]

Anyone have a particular favorite mit?

I am picking up the Zaino towels...is that best for drying?

[Thrillz]

Originally Posted by Mr G

Here's my take and I hope it helps some of you in maintaining your ride. You would be surprised how much good you can do your car's finish just by washing it. Aside from maintaining the oil and keeping a coat of wax or sealant on the surface, routine washing is the most beneficial treatment you can give your vehicle.

Armed with two bucket's with grit guards and hose, here are the proper steps to make car washing easier:

1. If possible, work in the shade, out of direct sunlight. Elevated paint temperatures cause the wash and rinse water to evaporate too quickly, increasing the likelihood of water spotting.

2. Start by preparing a bucket with clean water and wash the wheels first with a proper wheel wash and brushes too. This prevents you from splattering cleaners, dirt and brake dust on already cleaned panels.

In addition to oily, road grime, wheels get coated with black, metallic, dust particles every time you brake. Car wash shampoos alone may not have the power to remove this baked-on combination. Many inexpensive wheel cleaners use an acid or petroleum solvent to dissolve this bonded contamination but these cleaners can stain alloy and anodized wheels. I use a item that works great and safe for your rims (P21S Wheel Cleaner).

3. Pre-rinse the entire vehicle. This quick rinse removes surface dirt and lowers the paint's temperature.
4. Now prepare another bucket with your favorite car wash shampoo. I also place a Grit Guard in the bottom of my wash bucket. (You'll be amazed at what you'll find in the bottom of the bucket after washing!)
5. Wash the vehicle from the top down. I use either The Bone , a Microfiber Wash Pad or a sheepskin wash mitt.
6. Rinse often during washing. After washing a section (i.e. door, fender, hood, etc.) rinse completely to prevent soap films from drying on the finish.
Detailing Secret #2 - After washing the entire vehicle, do a final rinse with free-flowing water (nozzle off the hose). This sheets most of the water off the vehicle. Trust me on this. I know it takes a minute to take the nozzle off the hose and do this final rinse but it will allow you to dry your vehicle in a fraction of time you would normally require.

7. Dry the vehicle like you washed it, from the top down. I do the roof first, then all the windows, the hood and trunk and finish with the sides. I use a leaf blowner to speed the process and then a waffle weave drying towel to finish it off.

Hope this helps you all out.

+1 Listen to this man he knows what he is talking about. Welcome to the boards MR G good solid advice your offering to our members for detailing.

[camaroguy]

Just use a good quality foam gun, forget the bucket and grit guard crap.

[Thrillz]

Originally Posted by camaroguy

Just use a good quality foam gun, forget the bucket and grit guard crap.

[patriotpa]

All you need are some cotton bath towels.

[Angelo@Autopia]

Cotton towels will put more swirls on your finish. Use a Waffle Weave drying towel or a Microfiber towel.

[Halo2]

Originally Posted by SirBrad

Anyone have a particular favorite mit?

I am picking up the Zaino towels...is that best for drying?

http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/...+wash+mitts.do

[tones2SS]

Originally Posted by Mr G

Cotton towels will put more swirls on your finish. Use a Waffle Weave drying towel or a Microfiber towel.

BINGO!!! Correct about the cotton towel.
Only use microfiber or waffle weave. I like the microfiber towel personally.

[Flynnaz]

Where is the best place to buy Microfiber towels?

[Angelo@Autopia]

Try Properautocare.com or Pakshak.com, the towels from them are the best
IMO.

[mlee]

Don't forget the Sham Wow... and a polish towel to go behind it...

[fieldgoal00]

I have done everything, I have two buckets - one with Meguiars Gold Wash and the other with clean water to rinse the sheepskin mitts after washing a panel at a time. I wash the rims first with there own microfiber mitt before I wash the car. After the rims are clean both buckets are emptied and then refilled - one with clean water, one with Meguiars gold car wash. I then let my sheepskin mitts soak in the soapy bucket while I wash the whole car down to get most of the dirt off of the car. I then begin washing each panel - starting with the roof and in horizontal or vertical passes, never circular. After I have cleaned the whole car I rinse it down one more time and then I dry it with the "Absorber" chamois. After all this work, I still see swirl marks in the paint. You can't see them just by looking at the car but if you look at a certain angle when there is light shining on the car you can see them. How can this happen if I have taken every precaution necessary?

[Nexus6]

Originally Posted by fieldgoal00

I have done everything, I have two buckets - one with Meguiars Gold Wash and the other with clean water to rinse the sheepskin mitts after washing a panel at a time. I wash the rims first with there own microfiber mitt before I wash the car. After the rims are clean both buckets are emptied and then refilled - one with clean water, one with Meguiars gold car wash. I then let my sheepskin mitts soak in the soapy bucket while I wash the whole car down to get most of the dirt off of the car. I then begin washing each panel - starting with the roof and in horizontal or vertical passes, never circular. After I have cleaned the whole car I rinse it down one more time and then I dry it with the "Absorber" chamois. After all this work, I still see swirl marks in the paint. You can't see them just by looking at the car but if you look at a certain angle when there is light shining on the car you can see them. How can this happen if I have taken every precaution necessary?

Did the sealer prep the car?, if so it could have come from that.

[Moose]

Originally Posted by tones2SS

BINGO!!! Correct about the cotton towel.
Only use microfiber or waffle weave. I like the microfiber towel personally.

Not all cotton towels harm the finish.

That is why you look for 100% cotton, "Made in the USA", white, quality, bath towels. I bought 6 'Fieldcrest' "Charisma" towels from Macys at $30 ea., and have used them for drying...and they've never cause swirl marks, etc..

Unfortunately, these towels are no longer available. But when the time comes for new towels, I'll purchase the towels offered by Zaino, and leave the MF for detailing the interior.