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Old 05-27-2015, 12:30 PM   #1
jamestown
 
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Drives: 2014 1le
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Location: Niagara Falls Ontario
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Jamestown's budget minded 1le

Greetings camaro5!

My life is going to change in a big way pretty soon here in the way of a baby so the motivation for this build is simple: a reliable hpde car that won't completely break the bank. Oh and I also like going fast.

Previously I had a modded g35. At one point it was vortech supercharged with 400 whp, but as I got more and more into tracking that seemed like a liability to me. If any of you are familiar with the VQ35DE there isn't much power to be made on the NA and the engine itself is still pretty expensive. Why would I want to rebuild my block for 5-10k and have the reliability problems of aftermarket forced induction when a brand new ls3 straight from gm would be cheaper, as powerful, and more reliable, I thought. That's where the 1le comes in.

Last edited by jamestown; 07-02-2016 at 11:28 AM.
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Old 05-27-2015, 12:36 PM   #2
jamestown
 
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Drives: 2014 1le
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Niagara Falls Ontario
Posts: 174
Current Mod List:

weathertech mats
xpel clear bra
npp fuse pull
omp gas pedal
skip shift eliminator
autometer oil temp and oil pressure gauge
improved racing oil thermostat / 12 an lines
setrab series 6 60 row oil cooler
improved racing oil pan baffle
tick clutch fluid bleeder
hill start assist delete
carbotech pads xp12/xp10
sparco pro2000 / planted bracket
quantum brake ducts
dorman master cylinder gasket
track alignment
melling m295 oil pump
oil pan pressure relief valve delete
battery shim
1le oil separator
hard brake ti shims
z/28 belly tray
z/28 grille


Planned Mods:

g-loc r16 pads for the front
get a better bolt for seat install
replace driver side brake duct (currently slightly too short for ideal routing)
get a better master cylinder cap
install 6 piston front zo6 brembos (likely in 2017)


(Updated 5/30/2016)

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Old 05-27-2015, 01:16 PM   #3
jamestown
 
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So onto the plans:

Step 1: No power mods. Seriously, I need to not modify this car for more power! We'll see how that goes. Wish me luck.

The other steps: reliability mods. Big thanks here to other users on this forum that have steered me in the right direction here (specific shout out to x25, that guy is a wealth of information).

What has been installed on the car so far:

-Xpel clear bra / rocker panels / in front and behind the rear wheel
If you are going to get a clear bra on this car consider doing in front of the rear wheel also (gill area), the hips of this car are wide so this section is actually a leading edge into road debris.

-Weather tech digitalfit mats
These mats don't look like much but they fit well and I'm a little OCD so any mat that prevents me from having to clean sand and salt out of my carpet is a plus in my books.

-Npp fuse pull
That burble!

-Omp gas pedal install
I like rolling my foot instead of actually using my heel on downshifts so I found the stock pedal location to be too far apart at around 3" iirc. I had an OMP pedal lying around which required bending to bolt it on, and it isn't lined up the best but it works. There are some nice aftermarket pedals for about $100 that you'd probably want instead, but I am too cheap.

-Slp skip shift eliminator
I actually had never heard of skip shift before driving this car, and I almost couldn't believe this is a thing considering how terrible and disruptive it is to actual driving when it engages. While there are a few solutions to this problem SLP's one was super convenient, worked like a charm, was about $20.

Parts I have to install in the next few weeks:
Autometer Oil temp gauge
Autometer Oil pressure gauge (actually not sure if I will install this, the oil pressure gauge on the gauge cluster has been reported by x25 as accurate)
Improved racing oil pan baffle
Improved racing 212 degree thermostat
Setrab oil cooler series 1 60 row
Tick clutch bleeder line
Carbotech xp12 front xp 10 rear
Quantum brake ducts
SPC 81280 and SPC 87430 Camber and toe bolts
HSA delete
Planted seat bracket
Sparco Pro2000 seat

I'm curious how much camber I will be able to get with just the bolts. So after that list alignment and fluid flush (brake, diff, trans).

Last edited by jamestown; 05-27-2015 at 01:40 PM.
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Old 05-28-2015, 12:22 PM   #4
jamestown
 
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Well, got the car back from the shop today. Some of the things installed I probably could have done myself but I honestly wasn't up to the task of installing the oil pan baffles, and while the oil was out it made sense to install the oil cooler too. For reference my shop charged me 7 hours of labour for the baffle install which involved dropping the front sub frame.

Parts installed:

-Autometer oil temp gauge

-Improved racing baffle

-Improved racing 212 degree thermostat, fittings, hoses, Setrab 60 row
I ordered the 60 row 1 series when I initially thought a bigger one would over cool on the street - but this is almost certainly not the case. Driving home in stop and go traffic in 75 degree ambient the oil was sitting at 230. I have yet to test at highway speeds.

-Tick clutch bleeder line
My mechanic used a 'snake camera' to install this without dropping the transmission. Seemed like a pretty good idea, he said it took him 10 minutes but did admit that it was easier because the oil pan was down. I actually can't believe how shitty the stock bleeder is as far as location, I guess GM didn't think anyone would have to ever bleed the clutch line - a pretty big oversight.

-HSA delete.
Yep, no more flat parking lot reverse to first gear stalls for me. I can rant because this is my thread right?? I also drive a manual ford fiesta, and let me tell you the hill start assist on that car is immaculate, never comes on at the wrong time, never holds too long. So at least we know it is possible to implement properly, right GM??

Last edited by jamestown; 07-02-2016 at 11:20 AM.
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Old 05-31-2015, 08:55 AM   #5
jamestown
 
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Ive been testing out the oil cooler for a few days now, and here are a few observations:

252 @ 80 ambient during normal/spirited driving
227 @ 70 ambient normal/highway driving
222-230 @ 75 ambient normal city driving
225 @ 50 ambient normal/highway driving

The temperature seems to settle in the mid 220's when idling/ doing normal easy driving pretty much regardless of ambient temperature.

One question I'm left with is does the 212 thermostat start opening at 212 or is it completely open at 212? (or even half open?)

More to come...
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Old 05-31-2015, 09:37 AM   #6
The_Blur
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I'll be following this. I also have a baby on the way, and the Camaro SS is staying. It looks like both of us will be going to the track and the grocery store in ours.
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Old 05-31-2015, 10:50 AM   #7
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This is a great build.
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Old 06-02-2015, 04:27 PM   #8
jamestown
 
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I bled my brakes and clutch yesterday. It went pretty smoothly. So Motul 600 in and old dot 3 fluid out. I used a motive bleeder for the brakes. I think by the book you are supposed to put fluid into the bleeder itself and then pressurize it but I just pressurize the master cylinder and take time to make sure it doesn't run out of fluid (repressurizing between calipers). For the tick clutch line I got a friend to pump the clutch while I kept the bleeding nipple submerged.

Some stuff to remember for future bleeds:
Wheel nuts - 22mm
Wheel nut torque - 110 lbs ft
Caliper bleeder valve - 11mm
Tick bleeder valve - 11mm /14mm

Also I used this bleed order for the calipers (found in the DIY section):
1. Right Rear; Inner bleeder; Right Rear outer bleeder.
2. LF-Inner; LF-Outer.
3. LR-I; LR-O
4. RF-I; RF-O

I couldn't actually find an order in the manual to double check this. In the past I have always done a furthest from the master cylinder to closest order but I have also heard that in modern braking (abs) the plumbing is more complicated so furthest physically might not be the furthest hydraulically. I also have this thought that as long as you do a decent bleed can the order really matter???

Track day coming up soon! Just over a week to go!
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Old 06-15-2015, 10:57 AM   #9
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Well it has been a very busy couple of weeks! Everything got completed except the alignment, but it was fairly rushed with me finishing the brake duct install track side minutes before my first session. I'll post some more pictures and details to catch the thread up.

I swapped in the carbotech xp12/xp10 last week and I have a new appreciation for brembo calipers. The speed and ease at which you can swap pads in these things is really great.

As far as the carbotechs, I installed them on a slightly used set of rotors that had the stock brake pad compound on them still. I know carbotech goes on and on about bedding the brakes properly and/or other compound pads not being compatible. In the past I have followed their instructions, but this time I was more curious what would happen.

The result is, if you put these pads on rotors bed with stock compound they feel normal under normal braking. However when I went to bed the carbotechs, the abs would come on at a lower deceleration level than you would expect under hard braking. I didn't think much of it and drove the pads on the street for a few days leading up to the event and they felt fine, and as you would expect had more initial bite than the stock pads.

I then got on the track and in my first few sessions they just felt kind of limp. Like they were never not there, but the overall deceleration I was getting was just noticeably reduced. It wasn't exactly confidence inspiring.

Luckily the more sessions I went out for the better they got, back to what I would expect from the xp12/10 pad. Lesson learned, in the future I will try and sand down the rotor somewhat before swapping pad compounds (if the rotor is still thick enough).
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Old 06-15-2015, 11:59 AM   #10
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Next was the brake ducts. I was pretty impressed with the quantum kit. The only real oversight was that on my model the supplied bolts to connect the top tab to the hub aren't the right thread. They supplied a nut and bolt to do this job so perhaps earlier versions had something else to bolt on to. Either way I just used the torx bolt that originally held the rotor on to now hold the top part of the brake duct on.

The hub side of the quantum kit fit great and had nice welds. The naca duct side required a bit of cutting to get to fit properly, both to remove the oem shroud covering the front duct location and a knotching of the naca duct to get it to install higher.

Despite having to remove the caliper to put the spindle side of the ducts on, I think installing the naca ducts was the bigger pain in the ass, mostly because I didn't want to take the front bumper off. Because the splitter is basically rivited on, and I was using a hand saw to cut the oem plastic shroud, I was also slightly grating my forearm against the exposed rivets. Come to think of it I really should have used a dremel for this job, probably would have been both faster and given better results.

The hose routing worked well too as far as I can tell. It goes up inside into the engine bay and back out into the wheel well. The driver side is harder to do because of the washer fluid tank.
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Old 06-15-2015, 12:37 PM   #11
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The last thing I installed before the weekend was the sparco pro2000 seat. I have taken no steps to fool the airbag system into thinking the stock seat airbag is still there, so if I crash I would expect none of the airbags to go off (this is my theory only). As a result, for liability reasons I'm going to swap in and out this seat for use on non public roads only. For additional on track safety I think I will also look into getting a harness bar and hans device. I need to do some more reading on that.

I tested this and to anyone wondering, if you unplug the stock seat, you get the airbag light and a service airbag message. If you plug the stock seat back in the messages go away (no codes persist).
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Old 06-15-2015, 12:45 PM   #12
jamestown
 
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Here is how the seat install went:

Remove stock seat. 2 Torx 50 bolts and unplug the stock seat. Unplug and remove the seat belt receiver from the stock seat frame.

Picture 1. Test install the planted bracket (Part SB137DR) It looks good... wait a sec...

Picture 2. Well, I don't have any low profile torx bits, so that isn't going to work.

Picture 3. Solution, cut out the offending piece of aluminum.

Picture 4. Install the planted side brackets onto the seat. They are in the lowest possible rear setting so the seat doesn't hit the planted bracket base.

Picture 5. Place the seat on top of the base in the car and sit in it, get comfortable and mark or measure where you want the seat in relation to the base. Then mark where you need to drill holes to mount the seat to the base. For whatever reason the predrilled holes on both the planted base and side pieces do not line up so they must expect you to drill your own.

Picture 6. Bolt the seat to the base outside of the car, line it up so that the seat will be closer to the transmission tunnel than the door or else it will hit the door. Bolt on the stock seat belt receiver, I used aftermarket hardware for this (and some other parts too, I can't remember exactly what came with the seat and brackets and what didn't).

Picture 7. Looks good! Wait a sec...

Picture 8. Goddamn it, now the torx bolt on the other side is blocked!

Picture 9. I thought about cutting more. But instead I just bought a bolt. I probably should be diligent and get a stronger version of it in the future considering safety is involved, but this one here is a home depot special.
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Old 06-15-2015, 12:48 PM   #13
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In the car the seat just clears the door, although I could move it inwards more if I had to, so the width of the seat really isn't a problem.

So how is the headroom? Surprisingly I'm not much lower than my stock seat. Anything I gained was probably give up by the more upright seating position of the pro2000.
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Old 06-15-2015, 12:51 PM   #14
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