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Old 03-18-2013, 09:51 PM   #18
Synner


 
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Flex is not something I'd want on a bolt mounting location. Thats what allows a lateral shear load that could snap a bolt or increase the stress on the threads to the point of failure. I would have it rigid. Maybe its compressed enough it won't matter but when the whole point of the cage is safety I wouldn't compromise there.

The clamps would be far easier to align if they weren't fully welded in until after mock-up but I guess that ship has sailed.
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Old 03-18-2013, 09:59 PM   #19
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Flex is not something I'd want on a bolt mounting location. Thats what allows a lateral shear load that could snap a bolt or increase the stress on the threads to the point of failure. I would have it rigid. Maybe its compressed enough it won't matter but when the whole point of the cage is safety I wouldn't compromise there.

The clamps would be far easier to align if they weren't fully welded in until after mock-up but I guess that ship has sailed.
I hear you. For me, beveling the leading edges a bit so that the pieces can slip in place better is worth it. Won't change the bulk of the solid steel connection points, just entry points (so to speak). I'm pretty sure this would not compromise anything. It won't be flexible or loose once it's together.
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Old 03-18-2013, 10:02 PM   #20
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No I'm talking the rubber washers under the plate. Granted there's 4 bolts but the structural engineer in me says "Danger Will Robinson!" Over time any vibration/loosening could shear a bolt or the threads.
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Old 03-18-2013, 10:10 PM   #21
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No I'm talking the rubber washers under the plate. Granted there's 4 bolts but the structural engineer in me says "Danger Will Robinson!" Over time any vibration/loosening could shear a bolt or the threads.
Ah - gotcha. Yeah. We tried the rubber washers, didn't do any good (once compressed, maybe isolates some vibration but provides no flex.) Took 'em out. It's steel on steel now. Thanks for the suggestion - good point!
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Old 03-18-2013, 10:19 PM   #22
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OK cool. Even something as random as the different expansion/contraction rates from temperature between rubber and steel could be enough to cause slack. Or the rubber degrading over time. Then vibration will slowly compromise the bolt threads or generate lateral point loads and you'd never notice until that oh shit moment when you need the cage and they snap. Steel on steel all the way with some loctite after final mockup. Any flex will introduce some bad ju-ju so if you need flex to make it work rethink the mounting method.
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Old 03-21-2013, 11:25 AM   #23
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Beveling the tube clamps by even tiny amounts makes a huge difference in getting the bars in and out. But, once they are all the way in, they are locked solid. Really nice.

It takes 2 minutes for 2 guys to pick up the bar, walk it into the car, place the rears, bang a bit with a rubber mallet to get all the way in, place the fronts, bang them in. Huge difference from before.

A few minutes to thread in the bolts (2 per tube clamp) and it is ready to rock.

I need to do some final fit and finish this weekend around the mounting plates and adjusting the angles on one of the post a bit, but this is close to done now.
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Old 04-07-2013, 04:33 PM   #24
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Back from vacation. Going to try to finish this project. Roll bars do not line up right on the rear fenders (angle is off) and so need to be either spaced out or cut and re-welded. Going to visit a local guy who builds race cars tomorrow so we can get this finalized.
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Old 04-07-2013, 06:46 PM   #25
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Ever think about running http://www.sscc.us/ With that setup you could run the Grand sport cless with a tech(top speed)of 165 mph
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Old 04-07-2013, 07:23 PM   #26
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Ever think about running http://www.sscc.us/ With that setup you could run the Grand sport class with a tech(top speed)of 165 mph
I'm working my way up. Last time at VIR I consistently hit 130 on the back stretch. It's a little unnerving because you have the pedal to the metal as you go up over a rise, hoping to hell that nobody has spun out on the other side. I hit 130 juuuuust as I crest the hill.

But that was before I installed the supercharger Should be more fun next time around. Trying to get it all together so I can run with an Audi club April 15/16, if I can get off work.
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Old 04-07-2013, 07:51 PM   #27
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Sounds like super fun,good luck man i sure hope i can run VIR someday!
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Old 04-07-2013, 08:34 PM   #28
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Sounds like super fun,good luck man i sure hope i can run VIR someday!
Here is a nice run from last October if you are interested:

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Old 04-07-2013, 09:15 PM   #29
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oh hell yeah,that was cool.That track looks so cool,thanks for sharing
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Old 04-07-2013, 09:15 PM   #30
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Are those vents on your hood from hexvents.com?
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Old 04-07-2013, 09:21 PM   #31
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Are those vents on your hood from hexvents.com?
Yep. I love 'em.

I also opened up the mail slot last month using the ACS Composite kit, and put a SLP splitter on, all to shove more air into engine bay. When I go to the track, I also remove the rubber trim at the back of the hood (near the bottom of the front windshield) to get air through there. I'm always looking for other ways to keep things cool.
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Old 04-07-2013, 09:28 PM   #32
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Nice looking ride man,did you remove your hood liner as well? i see your car is sticking her tongue out at me so back at you
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Old 04-07-2013, 09:38 PM   #33
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Nice looking ride man,did you remove your hood liner as well? i see your car is sticking her tongue out at me so back at you


I tried to cut the hood liner to open it up under the hex vents and just botched it up completely, so took it out. Apparently it is there because the engine can get hot enough to blister the paint on the hood. But once you have holes in your hood, I don't think the air underneath could get that hot, even if the car was sitting still.
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Old 04-08-2013, 07:20 PM   #34
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Progress!

Spent a day with a guy who builds race cars for a living. Great guy.

First thing first, we got the rear support posts mounted. The gap between the rear interior mounting plates and the fender walls were huge, and the posts were at the wrong angle - could not get the roll bars on without huge spacers underneath and that would not be safe. He ended up deciding to cut the post off the plates, mount the plates to the fender, then measure and fab up new posts and weld them in exactly the right spots. Worked like a charm.

We figured out the seat mounts and he started fabbing up metal plates for each side, and then we ran out of time. More tomorrow.

Here are some pics:

1. Old post provided with the roll bar kit vs. new post that fits. Note how big the difference is!

2. Rear plate ground down with no post on it, fastened to fender

3. Rear passenger side post once installed with interior trim back in place

4. Front passenger side post with trim back in place.
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