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Old 04-07-2013, 07:23 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by cornerspeed92 View Post
Ever think about running http://www.sscc.us/ With that setup you could run the Grand sport class with a tech(top speed)of 165 mph
I'm working my way up. Last time at VIR I consistently hit 130 on the back stretch. It's a little unnerving because you have the pedal to the metal as you go up over a rise, hoping to hell that nobody has spun out on the other side. I hit 130 juuuuust as I crest the hill.

But that was before I installed the supercharger Should be more fun next time around. Trying to get it all together so I can run with an Audi club April 15/16, if I can get off work.
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Car having open heart surgery. Used to be: SLP TVS2300 L99, bolt in cage, headers, high flow cats. Coming soon: dry sump LS7, 6-point welded cage, Wilwood brakes, ARH 3" headers/exhaust, Z28&1LE suspension bits. Keeping: Kirkey seats, TeamTech 6-point harnesses, 10.5x20 Forgestar CF14s, 29530R20 Michelin PSS, remote oil cooler, splitter, CAI, Pedders coil overs & bushings etc, SJM Afterburner Tail lights, brake ducts.
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Old 04-07-2013, 07:51 PM   #27
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Sounds like super fun,good luck man i sure hope i can run VIR someday!
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Old 04-07-2013, 08:34 PM   #28
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Sounds like super fun,good luck man i sure hope i can run VIR someday!
Here is a nice run from last October if you are interested:

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Car having open heart surgery. Used to be: SLP TVS2300 L99, bolt in cage, headers, high flow cats. Coming soon: dry sump LS7, 6-point welded cage, Wilwood brakes, ARH 3" headers/exhaust, Z28&1LE suspension bits. Keeping: Kirkey seats, TeamTech 6-point harnesses, 10.5x20 Forgestar CF14s, 29530R20 Michelin PSS, remote oil cooler, splitter, CAI, Pedders coil overs & bushings etc, SJM Afterburner Tail lights, brake ducts.
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Old 04-07-2013, 09:15 PM   #29
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oh hell yeah,that was cool.That track looks so cool,thanks for sharing
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Old 04-07-2013, 09:15 PM   #30
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Are those vents on your hood from hexvents.com?
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Old 04-07-2013, 09:21 PM   #31
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Are those vents on your hood from hexvents.com?
Yep. I love 'em.

I also opened up the mail slot last month using the ACS Composite kit, and put a SLP splitter on, all to shove more air into engine bay. When I go to the track, I also remove the rubber trim at the back of the hood (near the bottom of the front windshield) to get air through there. I'm always looking for other ways to keep things cool.
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Car having open heart surgery. Used to be: SLP TVS2300 L99, bolt in cage, headers, high flow cats. Coming soon: dry sump LS7, 6-point welded cage, Wilwood brakes, ARH 3" headers/exhaust, Z28&1LE suspension bits. Keeping: Kirkey seats, TeamTech 6-point harnesses, 10.5x20 Forgestar CF14s, 29530R20 Michelin PSS, remote oil cooler, splitter, CAI, Pedders coil overs & bushings etc, SJM Afterburner Tail lights, brake ducts.
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Old 04-07-2013, 09:28 PM   #32
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Nice looking ride man,did you remove your hood liner as well? i see your car is sticking her tongue out at me so back at you
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Old 04-07-2013, 09:38 PM   #33
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Nice looking ride man,did you remove your hood liner as well? i see your car is sticking her tongue out at me so back at you


I tried to cut the hood liner to open it up under the hex vents and just botched it up completely, so took it out. Apparently it is there because the engine can get hot enough to blister the paint on the hood. But once you have holes in your hood, I don't think the air underneath could get that hot, even if the car was sitting still.
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Car having open heart surgery. Used to be: SLP TVS2300 L99, bolt in cage, headers, high flow cats. Coming soon: dry sump LS7, 6-point welded cage, Wilwood brakes, ARH 3" headers/exhaust, Z28&1LE suspension bits. Keeping: Kirkey seats, TeamTech 6-point harnesses, 10.5x20 Forgestar CF14s, 29530R20 Michelin PSS, remote oil cooler, splitter, CAI, Pedders coil overs & bushings etc, SJM Afterburner Tail lights, brake ducts.
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Old 04-08-2013, 07:20 PM   #34
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Progress!

Spent a day with a guy who builds race cars for a living. Great guy.

First thing first, we got the rear support posts mounted. The gap between the rear interior mounting plates and the fender walls were huge, and the posts were at the wrong angle - could not get the roll bars on without huge spacers underneath and that would not be safe. He ended up deciding to cut the post off the plates, mount the plates to the fender, then measure and fab up new posts and weld them in exactly the right spots. Worked like a charm.

We figured out the seat mounts and he started fabbing up metal plates for each side, and then we ran out of time. More tomorrow.

Here are some pics:

1. Old post provided with the roll bar kit vs. new post that fits. Note how big the difference is!

2. Rear plate ground down with no post on it, fastened to fender

3. Rear passenger side post once installed with interior trim back in place

4. Front passenger side post with trim back in place.
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Car having open heart surgery. Used to be: SLP TVS2300 L99, bolt in cage, headers, high flow cats. Coming soon: dry sump LS7, 6-point welded cage, Wilwood brakes, ARH 3" headers/exhaust, Z28&1LE suspension bits. Keeping: Kirkey seats, TeamTech 6-point harnesses, 10.5x20 Forgestar CF14s, 29530R20 Michelin PSS, remote oil cooler, splitter, CAI, Pedders coil overs & bushings etc, SJM Afterburner Tail lights, brake ducts.
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Old 04-08-2013, 08:42 PM   #35
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Thats pretty impressive you can do that,im thinking you need to be my neighbor
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Old 04-08-2013, 09:22 PM   #36
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Thats pretty impressive you can do that,im thinking you need to be my neighbor
Trust me, it's not me doing the metalwork. The guy I am working with builds drag cars and road course cars for a living, from tube frames up. I am seriously impressed with his skills - I'm just the helper.
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Car having open heart surgery. Used to be: SLP TVS2300 L99, bolt in cage, headers, high flow cats. Coming soon: dry sump LS7, 6-point welded cage, Wilwood brakes, ARH 3" headers/exhaust, Z28&1LE suspension bits. Keeping: Kirkey seats, TeamTech 6-point harnesses, 10.5x20 Forgestar CF14s, 29530R20 Michelin PSS, remote oil cooler, splitter, CAI, Pedders coil overs & bushings etc, SJM Afterburner Tail lights, brake ducts.
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Old 04-09-2013, 07:52 PM   #37
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Another day having fun modding the car, but gotta get back to work tomorrow. So, no more until next week some time.

We got the mounts figured out and fitted, the driver's seat anchored and adjusted, a mounting hoop welded to the roll bar, and started anchoring the harnesses into the floor. Good progress but not enough to get me on the track by Monday :( Looks like I'll have to postpone that trip to VIR for another time.

Pics below are

1. The roll bars use a 6mm Allen key but it gets REALLY old turning an Allen key in a tight space. My buddy welded the end of a 6mm Allen key onto a ratchet for me. Works amazingly well

2. Driver's seat installed. Steel strips hook into OEM floor mounts at front and bolt down at back using OEM bolts and locations.

3. Rear brace attached to roll bar

4. Rear post sticking out through finished seat
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Car having open heart surgery. Used to be: SLP TVS2300 L99, bolt in cage, headers, high flow cats. Coming soon: dry sump LS7, 6-point welded cage, Wilwood brakes, ARH 3" headers/exhaust, Z28&1LE suspension bits. Keeping: Kirkey seats, TeamTech 6-point harnesses, 10.5x20 Forgestar CF14s, 29530R20 Michelin PSS, remote oil cooler, splitter, CAI, Pedders coil overs & bushings etc, SJM Afterburner Tail lights, brake ducts.
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Old 04-09-2013, 07:57 PM   #38
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Thats a bummer about VIR,but you're sure getting a nice setup!
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Old 04-20-2013, 10:52 PM   #39
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It's been a while since I updated. Work has me by the short and curlies right now.

A few pieces of advice:

1. If you are going to try to get removable roll bars, don't even think of installing them yourself unless you are a welder. It is 100% different from non-removable. With the non-removable you get the holes drilled, put the backing plates on, and crank like hell on the bolts and if it is half an inch out who cares. With removable, half an inch will kill you.

2. If you are going to install any race seats, 99% chance you'll need a welder too. Making the plates that mount to the car, but also, seats like Kirkeys need to attach to the roll bar. That means welding new tabs and loops on to the roll bar. It's a cinch for a welder but impossible for ordinary mortals.

3. If you are going to install race seats and swap them out regularly, kiss your interior goodbye. Mine is already scratched to hell and all I have done is taken the seats in and out maybe 6 times while we were fitting various things. Just about impossible to not scratch something, and metal gouges plastic deep. I'll bring my car to Camaro Fest so y'all can see the seats and laugh at the interior. I bet it will look like a badger got loose in there.

4. No matter what roll bars you buy, they WILL restrict the ability of your seat to move to its rearmost position and to recline. If you are tall and think you'll be driving around in OEM seats with fixed roll bars in place, think again.

5. If I had to do it over again I would just have gone to a local welder who does roll bars. Buying a kit that doesn't quite fit is a major PITA.

6. You'll be amazed how long it takes to get everything mounted.


I am hoping to finish up the final door bar on Tuesday. When it's done, it's gonna be awesome.

Pete
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Car having open heart surgery. Used to be: SLP TVS2300 L99, bolt in cage, headers, high flow cats. Coming soon: dry sump LS7, 6-point welded cage, Wilwood brakes, ARH 3" headers/exhaust, Z28&1LE suspension bits. Keeping: Kirkey seats, TeamTech 6-point harnesses, 10.5x20 Forgestar CF14s, 29530R20 Michelin PSS, remote oil cooler, splitter, CAI, Pedders coil overs & bushings etc, SJM Afterburner Tail lights, brake ducts.
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Old 04-20-2013, 11:06 PM   #40
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1. The roll bars use a 6mm Allen key but it gets REALLY old turning an Allen key in a tight space. My buddy welded the end of a 6mm Allen key onto a ratchet for me. Works amazingly well
PS the very cool Allen key wrench broke when I cranked on it hard. I'm going to replace the Allen key bolts with regular hex head bolts. If I ever screw up the Allen key head I am completely screwed. At least with a hex head there are lots of options for getting it off. Not so with the Allen as it was deep into the bar, so the head was flush.
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Car having open heart surgery. Used to be: SLP TVS2300 L99, bolt in cage, headers, high flow cats. Coming soon: dry sump LS7, 6-point welded cage, Wilwood brakes, ARH 3" headers/exhaust, Z28&1LE suspension bits. Keeping: Kirkey seats, TeamTech 6-point harnesses, 10.5x20 Forgestar CF14s, 29530R20 Michelin PSS, remote oil cooler, splitter, CAI, Pedders coil overs & bushings etc, SJM Afterburner Tail lights, brake ducts.
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Old 04-23-2013, 09:10 PM   #41
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DONE

Finally, finished. We put the last door bar in today, manufactured some plastic shields for the rear posts (out of six inch plastic sewer pipe 90's) so that my kids don't get speared if I get t-boned, welded on new anchors for the rear harness eye bolts (the ones on the bar were sticking straight up, way too high once the eye bolt was threaded in), cleaned up some sharp edges and points, replaced all the trim, and declared victory.

Pix attached: driver's seat, harnesses, and me strapped in. Holy cow, once you are strapped in, if you left the door all the way open you have to completely unbuckle or you can't reach the door handle. It's TIGHT. But feels great.

Drove the car on some windy back roads for half an hour. Feels like a 470hp go cart. It is awesome. Yes you feel every bump but you feel every weight shift, every slight adjustment of everything. Awesome.

I realized I need to insert some foam for lumbar support, but that will be no big deal.

WHEW!

Next projects: boost gauge, some mesh to cover in where I opened my mail slot, a fancy little disconnect for the line lock so it doesn't trip the ABS computer. Also need to change the brake fluid, re-map the boost-a-pump to come on a little earlier (maybe max out at 130 instead of 140) and learn a little more about the new upgrade to Harry's Laptimer. It'll be a busy few weeks before my next track day.

Hope y'all found useful info in this thread if you are thinking of adding racing seats, roll bars and harnesses.

Pete
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Car having open heart surgery. Used to be: SLP TVS2300 L99, bolt in cage, headers, high flow cats. Coming soon: dry sump LS7, 6-point welded cage, Wilwood brakes, ARH 3" headers/exhaust, Z28&1LE suspension bits. Keeping: Kirkey seats, TeamTech 6-point harnesses, 10.5x20 Forgestar CF14s, 29530R20 Michelin PSS, remote oil cooler, splitter, CAI, Pedders coil overs & bushings etc, SJM Afterburner Tail lights, brake ducts.
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Old 04-23-2013, 09:21 PM   #42
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Very nice man!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 04-23-2013, 09:57 PM   #43
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Looking good, nice work. So what did you end up doing with the air bags?
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Old 04-23-2013, 10:30 PM   #44
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Looking good, nice work. So what did you end up doing with the air bags?
Well, I don't think it's a problem. When you unplug the wiring harness under the seat and then plug the battery back in and crank the car, it tells you to service airbag. Hit the control stalk, the message goes away. There is a little red airbag light still on on the dash, but so what? Spoke to a guy who fixes Chevs and he said there is NO WAY that GM would disable all air bags just because one air bag sensor says there is a problem with that airbag. So I figure all the rest are still there and the seat mounted ones are just missing.

BTW it was really funny the first time I unplugged and drove a bit, OnStar started emailing me like crazy to warn me and tell me to take it to my dealer
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Car having open heart surgery. Used to be: SLP TVS2300 L99, bolt in cage, headers, high flow cats. Coming soon: dry sump LS7, 6-point welded cage, Wilwood brakes, ARH 3" headers/exhaust, Z28&1LE suspension bits. Keeping: Kirkey seats, TeamTech 6-point harnesses, 10.5x20 Forgestar CF14s, 29530R20 Michelin PSS, remote oil cooler, splitter, CAI, Pedders coil overs & bushings etc, SJM Afterburner Tail lights, brake ducts.
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Old 04-24-2013, 08:52 AM   #45
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Good to know thanks. That's funny about the onstar.
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Old 04-25-2013, 10:10 PM   #46
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So I got the car into the garage late Tuesday, didn't have time to take the seats out. Had to get to airport for 6am the next morning, so I get into the car at oh dark thirty Wed AM, get buckled in (still takes me 3-4 minutes to get all the straps loosened, connected, and retightened) then try to close the door. Can't reach the handle. Man am I strapped in TIGHT. So, took it all off, closed the door, strapped myself in again, picked up the keys, accidentally popped the trunk.

Cursed eloquently and then phoned my wife to come out and close my trunk.

She's a real sweetie.
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Car having open heart surgery. Used to be: SLP TVS2300 L99, bolt in cage, headers, high flow cats. Coming soon: dry sump LS7, 6-point welded cage, Wilwood brakes, ARH 3" headers/exhaust, Z28&1LE suspension bits. Keeping: Kirkey seats, TeamTech 6-point harnesses, 10.5x20 Forgestar CF14s, 29530R20 Michelin PSS, remote oil cooler, splitter, CAI, Pedders coil overs & bushings etc, SJM Afterburner Tail lights, brake ducts.
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Old 04-26-2013, 01:58 AM   #47
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Really nice work. As solid as the 5th Gen is a roll cage makes a difference. Everything in the suspension works better. How restrictive are the seats with your HANS connected?

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I get into the car at oh dark thirty Wed AM, get buckled in (still takes me 3-4 minutes to get all the straps loosened, connected, and retightened) then try to close the door. Can't reach the handle. Man am I strapped in TIGHT. So, took it all off, closed the door, strapped myself in again, picked up the keys, accidentally popped the trunk.

Cursed eloquently and then phoned my wife to come out and close my trunk.










Been there too
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Old 04-26-2013, 06:47 AM   #48
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Really nice work. As solid as the 5th Gen is a roll cage makes a difference. Everything in the suspension works better. How restrictive are the seats with your HANS connected?
So far, fits like a glove. In the pic a few messages above showing the belts in the car, you can see a big black U-shaped back pad in place behind the harness. That cutout is where the Simpson R3 unit fits into when strapped on. The tethers hook up to the helmet and let me turn my head but hold it in place, so any sort of hard shock would only let the helmet move forward an inch or two. Then with the halo from the Kirkeys, I'm covered for side impact too. Like I tell my wife, it's the cheapest life insurance we can buy. I can turn my head enough to see the side view mirrors and maybe a bit more, but that's all. No more shoulder checking. But with mirrors set right, you don't need to.
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Car having open heart surgery. Used to be: SLP TVS2300 L99, bolt in cage, headers, high flow cats. Coming soon: dry sump LS7, 6-point welded cage, Wilwood brakes, ARH 3" headers/exhaust, Z28&1LE suspension bits. Keeping: Kirkey seats, TeamTech 6-point harnesses, 10.5x20 Forgestar CF14s, 29530R20 Michelin PSS, remote oil cooler, splitter, CAI, Pedders coil overs & bushings etc, SJM Afterburner Tail lights, brake ducts.
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Old 04-26-2013, 02:34 PM   #49
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Originally Posted by SSSoon View Post
So I got the car into the garage late Tuesday, didn't have time to take the seats out. Had to get to airport for 6am the next morning, so I get into the car at oh dark thirty Wed AM, get buckled in (still takes me 3-4 minutes to get all the straps loosened, connected, and retightened) then try to close the door. Can't reach the handle. Man am I strapped in TIGHT. So, took it all off, closed the door, strapped myself in again, picked up the keys, accidentally popped the trunk.

Cursed eloquently and then phoned my wife to come out and close my trunk.

She's a real sweetie.
Yeah funny,the 1st time i strapped myself in i couldn't reach my gloves or shut the door,and it does take some time to strap in
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Old 05-15-2013, 08:53 AM   #50
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Some other observations after driving around for a few weeks with the bars/harnesses/seats in.

1. After 2 hours on the highway, the fact that the seats have no lumbar support becomes obvious. Bought the Kirkey lumbars and they are too soft to do any good. Cut down a piece of a pool noodle and it is a good start, but need to find some foam that is in between pool noodle and seat cushion. But still, 30 minutes on the track at a time would be no problem even without lumbar supports.

2. I can get the whole rig out and back to OEM in 45 minutes easy. If I was in a rush I could probably have done it faster. Took it all out without help last weekend, so it is possible to do this as a one-man thing. Not sure putting it in will be a one-man thing though. Stay tuned.

3. I love sitting lower down in the car. The only problem is there is now a huge blind spot in front of the car. Better not be any craters in the road as I go over a sharp hill because I would drive right into it. But still, lower seating is very good.

4. You get really used to being held in snug by the Kirkeys. Feels great. Getting in and out is now much easier now that I have done it a bunch of times. You don't sit down ass-first as you would normally do; you stick your head in the car first, lean on the center console, lower your butt in the seat. Works great.

5. Have not taken them to the track yet but am trying to soon, so will report back once that is done. But I am thinking it is gonna rock.
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Car having open heart surgery. Used to be: SLP TVS2300 L99, bolt in cage, headers, high flow cats. Coming soon: dry sump LS7, 6-point welded cage, Wilwood brakes, ARH 3" headers/exhaust, Z28&1LE suspension bits. Keeping: Kirkey seats, TeamTech 6-point harnesses, 10.5x20 Forgestar CF14s, 29530R20 Michelin PSS, remote oil cooler, splitter, CAI, Pedders coil overs & bushings etc, SJM Afterburner Tail lights, brake ducts.
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