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Camaro V6 LLT Engine, Exhaust, and Bolt-Ons Bolt-Ons | Intakes | Exhaust

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Old 03-28-2013, 11:51 AM   #1
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how to tell if the timing chain is going

I don't know if it's in my head, but I feel like my car is getting more sluggish over the past few days.
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Old 03-28-2013, 11:58 AM   #2
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You would see some codes being thrown if it really is the timing chain.
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Old 03-28-2013, 12:11 PM   #3
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Guess I should go get my cel checked.. been riding around no tune for awhile
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Old 03-28-2013, 05:04 PM   #4
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Loss of power. Codes come later.
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Old 03-28-2013, 05:22 PM   #5
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I noticed that with my cruise control on, my Camaro was down shifting on hills that it had not done previously. Not very long afterwards, I had a right bank code. I changed my chains myself.
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Old 03-28-2013, 07:59 PM   #6
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I noticed that with my cruise control on, my Camaro was down shifting on hills that it had not done previously. Not very long afterwards, I had a right bank code. I changed my chains myself.
How difficult was that?
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Old 03-28-2013, 08:17 PM   #7
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I dont see a catchcan in your mods....remove the plenum cover from the IM and look into the intake ports with a boroscope to see your intake valves and how cked up they are.

If you dont have a boroscope take the IM off and you can see directly into the port.

Depending on the miles on the engine, and if it was run with DEXOS blend (chain will wear out nearly twice as fast than with a full syn) you may be getting close.

Here is a great site to understand oil issues today:

http://www.drivenracingoil.com/dro/why-synthetic
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Old 03-29-2013, 11:54 AM   #8
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I would get a CEL off and on. After a few months it stayed on. I read the code myself with the Torque app.
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Old 03-29-2013, 03:22 PM   #9
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I would let someone else else do it for $1200. A member on here said that is what he was quoted. SC2150 down in FLA will do it for less than that. I had read on here that it was a +$2000 from the dealer. That is why I did mine. I'm embarrassed to admit it, it took me two days to do it.
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Old 03-29-2013, 03:45 PM   #10
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I would let someone else else do it for $1200. A member on here said that is what he was quoted. SC2150 down in FLA will do it for less than that. I had read on here that it was a +$2000 from the dealer. That is why I did mine. I'm embarrassed to admit it, it took me two days to do it.
Just think of it as you earned $1,000/day doing it yourself. I'll take that paycheck.
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Old 03-29-2013, 06:06 PM   #11
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Doing it in 2 days by yourself is impressive! Good job.

We charge $999 to do the timing chains.

Also, if anyone is running the GM reccomended DEXOS blend oil and not full SYN, then these wear out in app 1/2 the time.

Look at this thread showing lifter wear with DEXOS blend vs regualr full syn, vs Joe Gibbs:

http://www.rmmengines.com/Joe_Gibbs_Oil.html

Tells a good story.

The reason DEXOS is reccomended has nothing to do with protecting the engine the best, it is all marketing toward the demographic that wants cheaper maintance...same as they say 87 octaine fuel even though it is far better with the 11.3:1 compression ratio to run 93, etc.
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Old 03-29-2013, 06:38 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PieNsky View Post
I noticed that with my cruise control on, my Camaro was down shifting on hills that it had not done previously. Not very long afterwards, I had a right bank code. I changed my chains myself.
Hope not, mine just started downshifting on hills. Maybe I got a bad tank.
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Old 03-29-2013, 08:05 PM   #13
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Tracy I've been using straight Mobil 1 since I got my car . . . is there a readily available oil you would recommend over it? I've never seen the Joe Gibbs oil anywhere . . .
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Old 03-29-2013, 08:12 PM   #14
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This is the one thing I dread happening with this car. I don't drive much so I have no clue when it may happen, and the thought of losing power over time with no way to fix it without taking the plunge just sucks lol.

I'd rather my chains went out NOW and I could just have GM fix them.

Heres a new question....is there any way I can get this CEL to come on FASTER without running the dog crap out of my car and running crappy oil?? lol
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Old 03-29-2013, 08:14 PM   #15
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This is the one thing I dread happening with this car. I don't drive much so I have no clue when it may happen, and the thought of losing power over time with no way to fix it without taking the plunge just sucks lol.

I'd rather my chains went out NOW and I could just have GM fix them.

Heres a new question....is there any way I can get this CEL to come on FASTER without running the dog crap out of my car and running crappy oil?? lol
Lol, I highly doubt it. It may not even happen to your car or anytime remotely soon. Its not like every single v6 here has had to get them replaced.

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Old 03-29-2013, 08:30 PM   #16
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Lol, I highly doubt it. It may not even happen to your car or anytime remotely soon. Its not like every single v6 here has had to get them replaced.

Sent from my SAMSUNG Galaxy S III using telekinesis.
I agree....it was mostly a joke.

I'm hoping between my frequent oil changes and synthetic oil and catch can and what not that maybe I won't see the affects of it...but I don't know.

Oh wells.

I have had good repudable techs tell me that keeping the oil topped off and changed often is the key.
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Old 03-30-2013, 09:14 AM   #17
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I have 144,xxx miles on my Camaro. I changed the oil when the DIC told me to do it. They went out around 118,xxx miles. For what ever reason, I have noticed little oil use. Just over half the oil changes were with synthetic. As you may have deducted, I drive at a steady rate on the interstate with 68 miles one way to work.
If you go onto the Cadillac forums, this problem has been going on years.
I do not use Fram filters either. I believe the problem is some have let their oil get low.
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Old 03-30-2013, 10:39 AM   #18
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I have 144,xxx miles on my Camaro. I changed the oil when the DIC told me to do it. They went out around 118,xxx miles. For what ever reason, I have noticed little oil use. Just over half the oil changes were with synthetic. As you may have deducted, I drive at a steady rate on the interstate with 68 miles one way to work.
If you go onto the Cadillac forums, this problem has been going on years.
I do not use Fram filters either. I believe the problem is some have let their oil get low.
PieNsky did you get your oil monitor re-flashed to the lower 5,000 mile oil change interval? The orig monitor let you go 10k.
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Old 03-30-2013, 01:06 PM   #19
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No, I do change at 5k (after the timing chain change out) and now only have used full synthetic and NAPA gold filter as I don't have a quality parts store nearby.
As far as the top end cleaner, when I took the intake off, I looked down into the runners and the valves were gunked. I ran a Dodge top end cleaner spray with the thin line slid into crank case vent line? I gave short blasts and took up on the Interstate. When I removed the intake, it did a preety good job. It left just a small amount on the front four cylinders, but not much was removed on the back two. This makes sense as cylinders 1&3 had the most on them before cleaning, 5&6 had the least. 5&6 cleaned up little if at all. A one time cleaning took off at least 80% of the front four cylinders , however, my valves did not look as bad as the ones I've seen on here. Not certain as to why I do not use as much oil either. Just started using the non Fram filters the last few changes. I believe that the oil doesn't reach the rear cylinders as bad, and that the cleaner didn't reach back there either. It would be best to use the brake vacuum line to get cleaner to them.
Caddilac owners run full synthetic and have the same problems. Keep oil level up, change at 5k at most, run a good filter, and never run low, or high oil level.

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Old 03-30-2013, 02:48 PM   #20
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M1 is a good oil, but not the DEXOS (syn blend)version.

Pie,

I syspect you broke the car in right (not babied in first 1000 miles) and using ful syn M1 is why you have avoided the issues most have.

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Old 03-30-2013, 11:12 PM   #21
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M1 is a good oil, but not the DEXOS (syn blend)version.

Pie,

I syspect you broke the car in right (not babied in first 1000 miles) and using ful syn M1 is why you have avoided the issues most have.

The only Mobil 1 I can find now has the Dexos logo on it . . . . any suggestions?
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Old 03-31-2013, 09:23 AM   #22
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I would look at Pennzoil or Quaker state full syn, or step up to a premium like Amsoil (I shy away from RP).
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Old 04-01-2013, 01:02 PM   #23
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I would look at Pennzoil or Quaker state full syn, or step up to a premium like Amsoil (I shy away from RP).
I like Pennzoil.
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Old 04-01-2013, 01:10 PM   #24
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I prefer Pennzoil over M1 also.
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Old 04-01-2013, 06:58 PM   #25
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Ok thanks I'll check into those!
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