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Old 05-22-2013, 10:57 PM   #127
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can you not just tune the airbags out?
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Old 05-22-2013, 11:14 PM   #128
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can you not just tune the airbags out?
Not really. You can use an airbag simulator though. The computer will think the airbag is there and not throw a light.
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Old 05-22-2013, 11:53 PM   #129
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Does anyone know if there is a way to set a relay or something so that we don't get the airbag light popping on?

Also, does anyone know if removing the seat belts will throw a light?
Seatbelt warning will ding unless you connect the wires in the base. Simple way is to cut the male lap belt connector off and leave it permanently in the base. Otherwise soldering the wires should close the circuit.

Airbags the light will go on unless you use resistors, no idea what size, or just remove the light from the back of the dash.
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Old 05-23-2013, 01:11 AM   #130
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Just install a racepack
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Old 05-23-2013, 09:47 AM   #131
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I was asked to throw my 2 cents in as far as i know removing air bags will throw light and code's
for chiming in Ofer

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Originally Posted by snickerdoodle View Post
can you not just tune the airbags out?
Quote:
Originally Posted by SSMickey View Post
Not really. You can use an airbag simulator though. The computer will think the airbag is there and not throw a light.
I've heard of airbag simulators. Not sure exactly how they work. Someone on the forums was going to try them out but hasn't reported back yet.

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Originally Posted by Synner View Post
Seatbelt warning will ding unless you connect the wires in the base. Simple way is to cut the male lap belt connector off and leave it permanently in the base. Otherwise soldering the wires should close the circuit.

Airbags the light will go on unless you use resistors, no idea what size, or just remove the light from the back of the dash.
Synner, great info as always. I don't think we have to worry too much about the chime since we are taking out all the speakers LOL. With new seats coming soon, we removed the all the seat belt mechanisms. So whatever solution has to be electrical. Closing the circuit sounds like our best bet.

We talked about just removing the bulbs behind the gauges. We'll try to keep that our last resort.

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Just install a racepack
Hmmmmmmmm..... I'll talk to Nathan LOL
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Old 05-23-2013, 10:33 PM   #132
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I've heard of airbag simulators. Not sure exactly how they work. Someone on the forums was going to try them out but hasn't reported back yet
They plug in place of the air bag and complete the airbag circuit, so the computer thinks the airbag is there. There actually for testing the airbag circuit without the risk of blowing a bag. Not supposed to be used to remove an airbag, but on a pure track car, what the heck, the car is not street legal anyway, and you certainly don't want the risk of setting off a bag.
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Old 05-29-2013, 09:54 PM   #133
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Originally Posted by SSMickey View Post
They plug in place of the air bag and complete the airbag circuit, so the computer thinks the airbag is there. There actually for testing the airbag circuit without the risk of blowing a bag. Not supposed to be used to remove an airbag, but on a pure track car, what the heck, the car is not street legal anyway, and you certainly don't want the risk of setting off a bag.
SSMickey, I think we found a solution for the air bag deal. It will be a little while before we can confirm, LOL.

In our quest to improve the cars handling, one of the area of weight reduction was the seats. We have decided to go with the Cobra Misano Anniversary edition. They weigh only 24 lbs each and are consistent with the build level that we are shooting for. I fell in love with these seats when I first saw them at SEMA a few years ago. The seats will be coming from England, and we are working with Cobra on the idea of embroidering the G5.R logo on the seats (See pic below)

Name:  Misano_Anniversary.jpg
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Name:  CobraMisano30Back.jpg
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Hoping to have the car back as a roller in the next week as we are going to be building a roll cage for it.




.

Last edited by www.MorenoMotorsports.com; 05-30-2013 at 09:38 AM.
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Old 05-30-2013, 01:31 AM   #134
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Your biggest enemy is weight. I believe a wise man once said, "Adding power makes you faster in a straight line, reducing weight makes you faster everywhere." or something along those lines.
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Old 05-30-2013, 01:33 AM   #135
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Also I think taking off 400lbs is going to be a very difficult task. I remember reading someone that had a dedicated stripped down 5th gen and it weighed in at 3500 wet. Regardless, very interested in seeing the results.
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Old 05-30-2013, 05:45 AM   #136
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Also I think taking off 400lbs is going to be a very difficult task. I remember reading someone that had a dedicated stripped down 5th gen and it weighed in at 3500 wet. Regardless, very interested in seeing the results.
That would be Doc
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Old 05-30-2013, 09:06 AM   #137
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Also I think taking off 400lbs is going to be a very difficult task. I remember reading someone that had a dedicated stripped down 5th gen and it weighed in at 3500 wet. Regardless, very interested in seeing the results.
So far from what both Nathan and Justin have done I think they will be able to reach their goal.
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Old 05-30-2013, 09:48 AM   #138
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That would be Doc
Mine isn't stripped at all; it still has the full stock interior and I'm at 3688 with a full tank. Nathan is easily taking out enough weight to be near or at 3,400 lbs. The problem is when you start adding the systems you need for a dedicated track car, like the roll cage, trans oil cooler, diff oil cooler, etc. and the extra associated fluids and support pieces. Those of course add weight back but still, even with that I think he can achieve 3,400 lbs.

I received a reply from Jim at Optic Armor:

"We do not have the weights on the sides and qtrs at this time however our front 3/16” window weighs 11lbs and the rear window weighs 6lbs which is a net savings of approx 27 lbs. If you did do all the windows you would easily see a 50lbs reduction in weight. As for rolling them up and down they will withstand the motion of such however you will need someone who is experienced with polycarbonate windows to install them due to some minor issues with installing side windows in a door that does not have a full frame. Let me know if you have any additional questions, thanks again!"

I'm guessing the door glass has to be about the same weight as the rear window. Quarters probably don't weigh all that much. So it looks like front and sides should be about 50 lbs of weight reduction. And that's staying with the same thickness as the factory glass which is 3/16". If you wanted to go down to 1/8" on the sides you could probably save another few pounds but then you have slight fitment issues with gaps and seals. Keeping the factory rear window which has the rear defogger grid and radio antenna in it would only be a difference of about 9 lbs which is more than acceptable on a car that's not totally dedicated to track use. Plus that's 9 lbs in the back which is already lighter than the front, so pulling 50 lbs out of the front/middle helps to slightly move the weight balance for the car towards 50/50 which is ideal. And that's removing 50 lbs way up above the roll center which helps lower that and lessen body roll.

Going by their price list online it would be $940 plus shipping to do front and sides. Hmmm....... decisions decisions....
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Old 05-30-2013, 10:00 AM   #139
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Originally Posted by Doc View Post
Mine isn't stripped at all; it still has the full stock interior and I'm at 3688 with a full tank. Nathan is easily taking out enough weight to be near or at 3,400 lbs. The problem is when you start adding the systems you need for a dedicated track car, like the roll cage, trans oil cooler, diff oil cooler, etc. and the extra associated fluids and support pieces. Those of course add weight back but still, even with that I think he can achieve 3,400 lbs.

I received a reply from Jim at Optic Armor:

"We do not have the weights on the sides and qtrs at this time however our front 3/16” window weighs 11lbs and the rear window weighs 6lbs which is a net savings of approx 27 lbs. If you did do all the windows you would easily see a 50lbs reduction in weight. As for rolling them up and down they will withstand the motion of such however you will need someone who is experienced with polycarbonate windows to install them due to some minor issues with installing side windows in a door that does not have a full frame. Let me know if you have any additional questions, thanks again!"

I'm guessing the door glass has to be about the same weight as the rear window. Quarters probably don't weigh all that much. So it looks like front and sides should be about 50 lbs of weight reduction. And that's staying with the same thickness as the factory glass which is 3/16". If you wanted to go down to 1/8" on the sides you could probably save another few pounds but then you have slight fitment issues with gaps and seals. Keeping the factory rear window which has the rear defogger grid and radio antenna in it would only be a difference of about 9 lbs which is more than acceptable on a car that's not totally dedicated to track use. Plus that's 9 lbs in the back which is already lighter than the front, so pulling 50 lbs out of the front/middle helps to slightly move the weight balance for the car towards 50/50 which is ideal. And that's removing 50 lbs way up above the roll center which helps lower that and lessen body roll.

Going by their price list online it would be $940 plus shipping to do front and sides. Hmmm....... decisions decisions....
Do you know if they'll give a discount if we get a group buy together? I mean 10% off would still be about $100.
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Old 05-30-2013, 10:04 AM   #140
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Do you know if they'll give a discount if we get a group buy together? I mean 10% off would still be about $100.
AS long as the windshield will work with HUD
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