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V8 and V6 Transmissions / Driveline (6L80 / 6L50 / TR6060 / AY6) Driveshafts | Differentials | Gears | Rearends | Clutch | Shifters

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Old 03-29-2013, 11:39 AM   #1
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TR6060 grinding into 2nd under high RPM. Common?

I have to baby it into second if Im getting on it. Clutch pedal in and slowly go into second. If I dont, it will grind all the way through until it catches.

Is this particular problem a common one with this trans, or do I have issues?
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Old 03-29-2013, 12:26 PM   #2
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Very common most everyone has the problem. Do a search there are tons of threads and info on this subject.
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Old 03-29-2013, 01:04 PM   #3
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tick braided clutch line and idealgarage's master cylinder work for a lot of people
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Old 03-29-2013, 01:36 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by JLE58 View Post
Very common most everyone has the problem. Do a search there are tons of threads and info on this subject.
Thats what I thought. I remember cruising over a thread a while back before I joined the site and it was mentioned.
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Old 03-29-2013, 03:31 PM   #5
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Yep mine did it right from new. Under heavy acceleration it will grind going into second even when its warmed up.
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Old 03-30-2013, 12:48 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigMatt View Post
tick braided clutch line and idealgarage's master cylinder work for a lot of people
this....

Mine was 3rd gear grind though. Ideal G master cylinder fixed it tho. no probs now And I change out the clutch fluid very very regularly.
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Old 03-30-2013, 12:53 AM   #7
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Tick high flow clutch line, ideal garage high flow master clutch cylinder, upgraded clutch return spring, separate your clutch from your brakes and use good fluid. Just got all my stuff along with new rotors and pads. Can't wait to install it all.
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Old 03-30-2013, 04:41 AM   #8
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Agreed with everything from the above poster except for the return spring since I haven't found the need for it so I have not experience with it

Otherwise yes the IdealG master is a good swap although the price is rather high. Nothing you an really do about that.

Some people have gotten their dealer to replace the syncros to carbon instead and bronze fork pads Ect.look on tick performances website for more info on the 'upgrade' Others have had the entire transmission 100% replaced along with the clutch(all oe parts) and still had issues.
If you want a solid fix for now till you have good reason for a new clutch and slave the idealG master and separating the fluids is the way to go!
Good luck
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Old 03-30-2013, 04:59 AM   #9
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The clutch return spring helps when or if you have your clutch sticking. Granted the other stuff should fix this issue but I am tired of dealing with it so I got everything I could to make sure I covered all the bases to make the clutch work like it should of in the first place.
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Old 03-30-2013, 06:25 AM   #10
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Had this BAD on my 10 which is why i got rid of it. In a 13 with zero issues on this tranny.
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Old 03-30-2013, 01:52 PM   #11
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There are people with new 1LE's that have reported this issue so it seems to be more of a hit or miss, quality control issue with the TR6060. At least for the SS/1LE.

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=261882
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Old 03-30-2013, 02:03 PM   #12
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Its annoying. Sooner or later something is going to break. I need to get everthing ordered and get it fixed. Thanks for the help guys.
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Old 03-30-2013, 04:29 PM   #13
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FYI... a law firm is looking into claims regarding this issue.

http://www.girardgibbs.com/chevy-camaro-lawsuit/
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Old 03-30-2013, 04:40 PM   #14
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Having the same issue with my 13 1LE
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Old 03-31-2013, 03:32 AM   #15
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My 11' ss does the same thing. Dealer replaced the clutch pedal assembly and it helped but it still does it, espically when I run it at the drags I gotta baby 2nd cuz then it ll grind and ill end up blowing the run.
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Old 03-31-2013, 03:47 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MightymouseSS View Post
My 11' ss does the same thing. Dealer replaced the clutch pedal assembly and it helped but it still does it, espically when I run it at the drags I gotta baby 2nd cuz then it ll grind and ill end up blowing the run.
I read somewhere that there isn't enough fluid being sent to the slave cylinder and not allowing it to come out. Although for my 3rd gear grind issue i could see this.

I also read somewhere that the stock clutch grabs even tighter at high RPMs and if the plate doesn't disengage fully, it will deny you a gear change as it isn't off the plate.

Food for thought, replace OEM master cylinder with an Ideal Garage and be done with it
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Old 03-31-2013, 05:59 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Medi0cr3 View Post
I read somewhere that there isn't enough fluid being sent to the slave cylinder and not allowing it to come out. Although for my 3rd gear grind issue i could see this.

I also read somewhere that the stock clutch grabs even tighter at high RPMs and if the plate doesn't disengage fully, it will deny you a gear change as it isn't off the plate.

Food for thought, replace OEM master cylinder with an Ideal Garage and be done with it
There's a little more to the SS/1LE grinding issue than just the OEM master cylinder. Post #135 in the thread below sums up the problems that contribute to the TR6060 grinding issue.

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...=159933&page=6
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Old 04-01-2013, 03:02 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MiSTER View Post
There's a little more to the SS/1LE grinding issue than just the OEM master cylinder. Post #135 in the thread below sums up the problems that contribute to the TR6060 grinding issue.

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...=159933&page=6

So its a 50/50 if the new cylinder will fix it? Not only that, its been like this since the original owner bought it in 2010. Whos to say that I may not have more issues down the road because of worn parts from having this issue.
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Old 04-02-2013, 10:29 PM   #19
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Just bleed the clutch by sucking out the reservoir and filling with new fluid. Pump clutch with engine on 20x, 5 reps. I used ATE Superblue this weekend and the clutch feels solid. The clutch disengagement was quiet at the start but at the end, you could clearly hear the clutch assembly disengaging (click, click).

You wouldn't believe how much brake/clutch debris came out. I think i saw some small bugs and bits of leaves in there too lol. Shifts like a champ now.
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Old 04-02-2013, 10:32 PM   #20
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Just bleed the clutch by sucking out the reservoir and filling with new fluid. Pump clutch with engine on 20x, 5 reps. I used ATE Superblue this weekend and the clutch feels solid. The clutch disengagement was quiet at the start but at the end, you could clearly hear the clutch assembly disengaging (click, click).

You wouldn't believe how much brake/clutch debris came out. I think i saw some small bugs and bits of leaves in there too lol. Shifts like a champ now.
I suppose that would be a good option before I spend the money on everything else. It does have an aftermarket clutch, so its possible it wasnt bled properly the first time around.

Thanks!
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Old 04-03-2013, 02:09 PM   #21
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I have IDEALG's modified clutch master cylinder and it's a noticeable improvement over the stock unit. It definitely has a better feel. I've bled the system a few times with ATE and then tried Amsoil 600. Also tried using a separate reservoir. Mine still grinds. Again, the TR6060 for the SS/1LE are hit or miss...
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Old 04-03-2013, 03:54 PM   #22
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I have the IdealG Master Cylinder and I had my dealer do those carbon blocker ring things and it still grinds...I give up and am just going to deal with it.
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Old 04-03-2013, 04:52 PM   #23
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I have the IdealG Master Cylinder and I had my dealer do those carbon blocker ring things and it still grinds...I give up and am just going to deal with it.

When does it grind? only during high rpm shifting or does it do it other times? Did you bleed the clutch good?

I vacuum bleed cars that have the speed bleeder line installed. I put a vacuum on the speed bleeder using a clear hose attached to a canister so i can see when the bubbles disappear.
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Old 04-03-2013, 05:05 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MiSTER View Post
I have IDEALG's modified clutch master cylinder and it's a noticeable improvement over the stock unit. It definitely has a better feel. I've bled the system a few times with ATE and then tried Amsoil 600. Also tried using a separate reservoir. Mine still grinds. Again, the TR6060 for the SS/1LE are hit or miss...

The ZL1 grinds too. I've been saying it from the begining the problem lies in the trans, My Master Cylinder has worked wonders for many people but there are still some of us like the two of you who still have grind issues.

What gets me is why do some do it and some don't. Tremec says that thier TR6060 trans is flawless they deny all claims of grind. I call BS
I can't name names but there are guys I know who spent $6K on upgraded transmissions from known vendors who still have the grind

As far as my master cylinder goes.. I've stated it won't help everyone but it's way better the stock unit. Our clutch fluid gets dirty very fast and that little bit of dirt causes the already weak stock master cylinder to fail even more.
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Old 04-03-2013, 11:00 PM   #25
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When does it grind? only during high rpm shifting or does it do it other times? Did you bleed the clutch good?

I vacuum bleed cars that have the speed bleeder line installed. I put a vacuum on the speed bleeder using a clear hose attached to a canister so i can see when the bubbles disappear.
I didnt personally bleed the system so I cannot vouch for that but the dealer did...I am going to take it to my performance guy and he is doing a few spring tune up things to it and I am going to have him do that too so I know its done right.

It only grinds at high RPMs...I really havent put it thru its paces yet but I did about 5, 1 thru 4 gear runs on the street and it ground in 2nd every time...It use to grind into 3rd really bad too but that seems to be gone. Also, when it ground into 2nd, it still let me get it into gear and didnt block me out like it usually did. I will post more when I beat on it more and take it to the track.

I agree with you about these trans...
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