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Old Yesterday, 10:26 AM   #1
RubyCamaro
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Keeping your cool with headers

Okay, I have not seen any improvement in track times since I installed headers & got my tune. I suspect some of it may be helped when I get the tune updated with the new tables they got into. But the rest I feel is due to worsened heat soak issues. I DO NOT want to swap for the LFX butt ugly manifold. So what else can we do that may help with the underhood temps & heat soak? I will probably do hood vents at some point & that may help. Do I need to bite the bullet & get my headers removed, ceramic coated & re-installed? Any other thoughts?
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Old Yesterday, 10:49 AM   #2
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Have the tuner properly get the idle timing to 18-20 degrees, the stock settings are 3-6 and heat up fast. Have the correct timing for WOT in the optimal spark tables, and see what your knock sensors are reading. If using 100% gas, try switching to 10% ethanol and reset the ecu.

Biggest mistake is using Port Injection theories on Direct Injection. Our cars can run leaner without detonation due to DI. The AFR should be set to 0.85-0.88 lambda, then you set the timing based off that. Never add fuel to get more timing.
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Old Yesterday, 10:51 AM   #3
RubyCamaro
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I'll copy that to give to my tuner when I go back. Thanks.
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Old Yesterday, 11:15 AM   #4
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As far as ceramic coating goes, it will help the headers cool off quicker after the car is turned off but they do not reduce under hood temps one degree. It is great for racers that make a pass then need to get under their hood before the next but it will not reduce temps in the engine bay or improve performance. Stainless Works did a back-to-back test on a GT40 replica that has a much tighter engine bay than the Camaro. They placed something like 14 temp sensors in the engine bay and there was no difference anywhere with the ceramic coated headers. The heat in the engine bay is coming from almost everything under the hood, not just the exhaust.

Hood vents will help A LOT. Even when the car isn't moving. You could thermal wrap or ceramic coat your intake manifold to help reflect heat rather than absorb it. Like Magnum mentioned, tuning can help a little.
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Old Yesterday, 03:05 PM   #5
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HEX vents do help a lot, they ae nearly over the headers and you can see the heat rising from them.

You can also set the radiator fans to come on earlier, think stock is 226 degrees, I have mine at 201. Really helped consistency during long waits.
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Old Yesterday, 03:24 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RubyCamaro View Post
Okay, I have not seen any improvement in track times since I installed headers & got my tune. I suspect some of it may be helped when I get the tune updated with the new tables they got into. But the rest I feel is due to worsened heat soak issues. I DO NOT want to swap for the LFX butt ugly manifold. So what else can we do that may help with the underhood temps & heat soak? I will probably do hood vents at some point & that may help. Do I need to bite the bullet & get my headers removed, ceramic coated & re-installed? Any other thoughts?
This hurts
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Old Yesterday, 03:30 PM   #7
RubyCamaro
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Sorry. NO offence intended. Just IMHO. I like the look of the LLT manifold & don't want to try to keep all the little nooks & crannies of the LFX one cleaned.
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Old Yesterday, 04:15 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RubyCamaro View Post
Okay, I have not seen any improvement in track times since I installed headers & got my tune. I suspect some of it may be helped when I get the tune updated with the new tables they got into. But the rest I feel is due to worsened heat soak issues. I DO NOT want to swap for the LFX butt ugly manifold. So what else can we do that may help with the underhood temps & heat soak? I will probably do hood vents at some point & that may help. Do I need to bite the bullet & get my headers removed, ceramic coated & re-installed? Any other thoughts?
Yikes, that's unsettling since i got my azz handed to me by another LLT with only Shorty Headers, and a different exhaust set up at C5 Fest in the finals (and i beat him off the line), I was thinking its mod time again. I do have nitrous, but i just haven't run with it yet. So i was thinking the header, tune route but with what you are saying is scaring me a tiny bit, so I may need to rethink this... lol Just with the other bad azz LFX's that were running in the 12's and i couldn't get out of 15's that same day, even though we had a bad DA, its just frustrating lol Our LLT's need more power!! lol
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Old Yesterday, 04:21 PM   #9
RubyCamaro
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Yeah, That is exactly what pushed me to get headers. When Kevin beat me & we finished at the Indy Fest him in 1st & me second in V6 class. At that point the only difference between us was he had headers & I did not. Don't get me wrong, I love my headers. I would not change back. The feel & sound of the car is much better & the butt dyno is great. There were some gains on dyno too. Maybe I have just not had a really good day at the track yet & I do need a tune update. But you know we always push for more.
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Old Yesterday, 04:40 PM   #10
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Have you tried going low tech and just put a big bag of ice on your intake manifold between passes? That will help suck the heat out and get it nice and cool.
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Old Yesterday, 05:04 PM   #11
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Yeah, that was the plan at the Fest. I had a huge bag of ice on it but apparently never heard the call for the qualifying & got screwed out of running. It is rather a PITA too. The struggles!
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Old Yesterday, 05:29 PM   #12
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Jan try the Black Ice-o-later it will kill a lot of heat soak.
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Old Yesterday, 05:42 PM   #13
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Yeah, that was the plan at the Fest. I had a huge bag of ice on it but apparently never heard the call for the qualifying & got screwed out of running. It is rather a PITA too. The struggles!
Awe dang! I was wondering what happened to you!
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Old Yesterday, 06:48 PM   #14
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This hurts
Coming from an LLT owner...I would love to swap. Cooler IM is cool with me. Heh-heh.
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Old Yesterday, 06:50 PM   #15
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Jan try the Black Ice-o-later it will kill a lot of heat soak.
She already has it.
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Old Yesterday, 07:25 PM   #16
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Yep! I have basically everything short of forced induction there is for our LLT.
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Old Yesterday, 07:38 PM   #17
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Torque Converter will help your car out, will get the RPM's up fast at launch.
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Old Yesterday, 08:02 PM   #18
RubyCamaro
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I'd have to study some on that. Are you talking about just after launch or just before? Not sure I need more RPM's at launch. Wouldn't that just make it harder to get a grip? I have had to keep RPM's lower at launch since I got the headers or I just sit there & spin. If you mean it helps after launch to get speed up faster then maybe that makes sense. Would you then get into needing to upgrade other parts? Educate the newby.
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Old Yesterday, 08:13 PM   #19
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I'd have to study some on that. Are you talking about just after launch or just before? Not sure I need more RPM's at launch. Wouldn't that just make it harder to get a grip? I have had to keep RPM's lower at launch since I got the headers or I just sit there & spin. If you mean it helps after launch to get speed up faster then maybe that makes sense. Would you then get into needing to upgrade other parts? Educate the newby.
You will have to go with good drag radials with a converter, but it will shave over 0.5 seconds off your time. The stock converter only stalls to about 1800 RPM's, an aftermarket one will go to 4000 in aggressive form.

Don't know what kind of torque numbers it would be, but probably double or triple the amount of torque you are launching at now.

It will also keep the RPM's up after a shift, so instead of dropping below 5000 RPM's it might stay around 5500 RPM's.
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Old Yesterday, 08:31 PM   #20
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If you go to a high stall torque converter, for sure you will need drag radials, and I would even recommend a new rear end with posi to help control that one wheel spin we get with the V6 auto. If I was to continue drag racing with my V6, my next mod was a new rear with post=i.
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Old Yesterday, 08:35 PM   #21
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Uh, yeah, you guys are for sure getting over my head with that stuff now. I'm not all in to start tearing into my car that much. I still want to cruise around in her too.
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Old Yesterday, 08:38 PM   #22
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It is a day late and dollar short, but using DEI Titantium wrap for the headers is standard practice for thermal management. The hood vents will help. Removing the under hood blanket helps.
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Old Yesterday, 08:51 PM   #23
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Yeah, I got to get the hood done. My only problem with the wrap is if someone has made a way for it to not only do it's job but look good too. The ones I have seen are UGLY! You know I want the best of both worlds...................goes fast, looks great!
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Old Yesterday, 09:00 PM   #24
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Yeah, I got to get the hood done. My only problem with the wrap is if someone has made a way for it to not only do it's job but look good too. The ones I have seen are UGLY! You know I want the best of both worlds...................goes fast, looks great!
You should only wrap stainless headers. Most header mfgs will void your warranty. They are concerned about cracking. With high quality stainless, there are few problems, but they do happen. The wrap takes place before the install.











It takes 6 to 8 hours to complete. The wraps are held in place by safety wire.
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Old Yesterday, 09:04 PM   #25
RubyCamaro
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Mine are American Racing long tube headers. I'm guessing they'd be fine. Those don't look too bad but they definitely do look better naked. I guess it would be a PITA to have them taken off & redone anyway.
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