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Old 04-19-2013, 01:30 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by 05SilverStreak View Post
Well, I am counting on the MAF to add fuel as well as 02 sensors. That is the way system is designed. I understand what you guys are saying though, thats why I am asking before spraying. Kit instructions say as long as adequate octane booster or race fuel is used, (not necesarily 100 percent), that it would be safe to spray up to 100 with no timing retard. 150 shot would require at least 2 degrees of pull. I dont think I am going to even try the small jet, (75), without first getting a A/F guage. they say the placement of the dry nozzle is key as the sustem works by the MAF picking up the shot, so I am going to position it to spray all aver it. Thing is I will have to mount the jet at the end of the air filter so the MAF will see it. K&N intake has the MAF mounted all the way to the filter end so no room to mount it for the MAF to see it. Will post a pic in a few.
Yes, get a wide band. Your O2 sensors will do nothing for you at wot. Wot is open loop.
If your canned tune is adding timing and now your spraying in your intake tube, your iat sensor is going to read a colder temp and will most likely want to add more timing. But if they designed the kit to work by spraying across the maf, then I can't argue that point.
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Old 04-19-2013, 03:03 PM   #19
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Yes, the instructions said spraying cold nitrous across the MAF would drive the MAF nuts and add lots of fuel, thus creating the horsepower increase according to how much nitrous the MAF saw. So I mounted some of the kit today, now Im gonna have beers and tacos and get back to it tomorrow. Thanks for the input.
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Old 04-21-2013, 06:13 PM   #20
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How about this? If I was to transform this to a wet kit right away, all I would have to do is run the fuel line off the stock pump to the plate behind the throttle body right? (Assuming of course I had one to put there). After that if I am correct in my thinking its just run the nitrous line and the fuel line to the plate and Im good? I could probably at that that point change the tune or retard the timing myself 2 degrees and run the 150 shot. Just thinking out loud. Anyone got pics of how they ran the fuel line off the stock pump?
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Old 04-21-2013, 08:20 PM   #21
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I'm looking to do a nos kit as far as wet or dry I don't know I a aem air intake and a diablo tune on 91 I have a lot of questions since I have an L99 but I'm not looking to blow a ring
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Old 04-22-2013, 04:04 AM   #22
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Im in the same boat. Hopefully as this thread progresses we will both learn more about it. Good responses and help so far.
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Old 04-22-2013, 07:40 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 05SilverStreak View Post
How about this? If I was to transform this to a wet kit right away, all I would have to do is run the fuel line off the stock pump to the plate behind the throttle body right? (Assuming of course I had one to put there). After that if I am correct in my thinking its just run the nitrous line and the fuel line to the plate and Im good? I could probably at that that point change the tune or retard the timing myself 2 degrees and run the 150 shot. Just thinking out loud. Anyone got pics of how they ran the fuel line off the stock pump?
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=217103

Are you changing your plugs too?
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Last edited by Badbubba; 04-22-2013 at 08:02 AM.
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Old 04-22-2013, 08:01 AM   #24
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Thank you I'm looking into it
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Old 04-23-2013, 01:04 AM   #25
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Yes, from what I have been reading and what shop guy was saying. I would be ok on the stock type plug, (maybe a better quality one but same heat rating), up to a 75 shot. From 100 to 150, (150 is all I plan to go to), one step colder good quality plug would be needed. Once I get all installed I will be trying the 50 and 75 out on stock plug with no timing retard yet. Everything I read and what the tuner shop guy was saying jives with that, even with canned tune. And before the flaming starts, I have worked with this guy before and he has seen his fair shair of nitrous mistakes. AKA the stock civic guy trying to spray 200 dry to keep up with the big cars. So a little trust I am giving to him. I just dont know if higher than 91 octane fuel would be needed at 75, Im not worried about it at 50 but if it pings I gues ill know.....
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Old 04-23-2013, 09:20 AM   #26
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Here is the suggested breakdown:

NGK Plug Part# = Shot Size
B6EFS(1 Step Colder) 3177 = 0-75
BR7EF(2 Steps Colder) 3346 = 75-150
B8EFS(3 Steps Colder) 1049 = 150-225
B9EFS(4 Steps Colder) 1085 = 225-300

Also recommended is to pull 2* per 50hp.
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Old 04-23-2013, 12:02 PM   #27
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are people spraying through the shift?
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Old 04-23-2013, 12:27 PM   #28
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Auto trans here, no worry about the shift. But WOT activated systems disengauge when you let off the throttle to shift. If you WOT shift....you could be at risk.
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Old 04-23-2013, 12:29 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SRT10KLLR View Post
Here is the suggested breakdown:

NGK Plug Part# = Shot Size
B6EFS(1 Step Colder) 3177 = 0-75
BR7EF(2 Steps Colder) 3346 = 75-150
B8EFS(3 Steps Colder) 1049 = 150-225
B9EFS(4 Steps Colder) 1085 = 225-300

Also recommended is to pull 2* per 50hp.
Thank you for this. Safe is always better. If I can't get a tune in my hypertech blank spot I will probably pull about 3-4 degrees of timing manually and just drive like that. With an underdrive pulley I probably wont even notice the pull.
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Old 04-23-2013, 03:40 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by 05SilverStreak View Post
Thank you for this. Safe is always better. If I can't get a tune in my hypertech blank spot I will probably pull about 3-4 degrees of timing manually and just drive like that. With an underdrive pulley I probably wont even notice the pull.
Just curious, how do you plan to pull timing manually?
Also, you plan on lifting during the shift? A window switch has programmable rpm set points, a lower engage and an upper disengage. Therefore, you would not have to lift. You could keep your foot buried and let it shift in auto.
Do you plan on holding the n2o button in, lifting the pedal and the tapping the paddle?
Seems like room for human error.
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Old 04-24-2013, 05:00 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by Badbubba View Post
Just curious, how do you plan to pull timing manually?
Also, you plan on lifting during the shift? A window switch has programmable rpm set points, a lower engage and an upper disengage. Therefore, you would not have to lift. You could keep your foot buried and let it shift in auto.
Do you plan on holding the n2o button in, lifting the pedal and the tapping the paddle?
Seems like room for human error.
Pulling timing manually was something the guy at the shop threw out there. After looking into to that I dont really see a way other than tuning. No lift shifting. Im gonna let it spray through the shifts.
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Old 04-24-2013, 08:08 AM   #32
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Pulling timing manually was something the guy at the shop threw out there. After looking into to that I dont really see a way other than tuning. No lift shifting. Im gonna let it spray through the shifts.
Tuning, or an external timing retarder that could be activated when you press your N2O button.
Be aware that if for some reason you bounce off the rev limiter between shifts, the engine will cut the amount of fuel via injectors, and a few other things. That lean condition would be very bad. And on top of that, you have a dry system. When I got my tune, I requested that spark be cut and not fuel. Also I have the LNC2000 timing retarder, which has an upper or lower rpm set point for cutting spark.
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Old 04-27-2013, 01:40 AM   #33
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Any update silver?
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Old 04-27-2013, 03:23 AM   #34
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that lingenfelter timing box is what you need. You also need to verify what your timing map is first. Plus that fuel psi is stable. I wouldn't do it on the Hypertech...I actually asked one the guys that helped write that tune when I was beta testing for them that exact question...that's a nono. get it dyno tuned. A dry shot has to have the mapping in the tune for the fuel. A wet shot with it on the stock tune, a colder plug and timing pulled may work fine. That's a MAY though. I quit reading about midway down page 1...hopefully you figured that out.
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