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Old 04-23-2013, 08:20 AM   #26
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Here is the suggested breakdown:

NGK Plug Part# = Shot Size
B6EFS(1 Step Colder) 3177 = 0-75
BR7EF(2 Steps Colder) 3346 = 75-150
B8EFS(3 Steps Colder) 1049 = 150-225
B9EFS(4 Steps Colder) 1085 = 225-300

Also recommended is to pull 2* per 50hp.
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Old 04-23-2013, 11:02 AM   #27
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are people spraying through the shift?
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Old 04-23-2013, 11:27 AM   #28
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Auto trans here, no worry about the shift. But WOT activated systems disengauge when you let off the throttle to shift. If you WOT shift....you could be at risk.
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Old 04-23-2013, 11:29 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SRT10KLLR View Post
Here is the suggested breakdown:

NGK Plug Part# = Shot Size
B6EFS(1 Step Colder) 3177 = 0-75
BR7EF(2 Steps Colder) 3346 = 75-150
B8EFS(3 Steps Colder) 1049 = 150-225
B9EFS(4 Steps Colder) 1085 = 225-300

Also recommended is to pull 2* per 50hp.
Thank you for this. Safe is always better. If I can't get a tune in my hypertech blank spot I will probably pull about 3-4 degrees of timing manually and just drive like that. With an underdrive pulley I probably wont even notice the pull.
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Old 04-23-2013, 02:40 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by 05SilverStreak View Post
Thank you for this. Safe is always better. If I can't get a tune in my hypertech blank spot I will probably pull about 3-4 degrees of timing manually and just drive like that. With an underdrive pulley I probably wont even notice the pull.
Just curious, how do you plan to pull timing manually?
Also, you plan on lifting during the shift? A window switch has programmable rpm set points, a lower engage and an upper disengage. Therefore, you would not have to lift. You could keep your foot buried and let it shift in auto.
Do you plan on holding the n2o button in, lifting the pedal and the tapping the paddle?
Seems like room for human error.
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Old 04-24-2013, 04:00 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by Badbubba View Post
Just curious, how do you plan to pull timing manually?
Also, you plan on lifting during the shift? A window switch has programmable rpm set points, a lower engage and an upper disengage. Therefore, you would not have to lift. You could keep your foot buried and let it shift in auto.
Do you plan on holding the n2o button in, lifting the pedal and the tapping the paddle?
Seems like room for human error.
Pulling timing manually was something the guy at the shop threw out there. After looking into to that I dont really see a way other than tuning. No lift shifting. Im gonna let it spray through the shifts.
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Old 04-24-2013, 07:08 AM   #32
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Pulling timing manually was something the guy at the shop threw out there. After looking into to that I dont really see a way other than tuning. No lift shifting. Im gonna let it spray through the shifts.
Tuning, or an external timing retarder that could be activated when you press your N2O button.
Be aware that if for some reason you bounce off the rev limiter between shifts, the engine will cut the amount of fuel via injectors, and a few other things. That lean condition would be very bad. And on top of that, you have a dry system. When I got my tune, I requested that spark be cut and not fuel. Also I have the LNC2000 timing retarder, which has an upper or lower rpm set point for cutting spark.
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Old 04-27-2013, 12:40 AM   #33
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Any update silver?
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Old 04-27-2013, 02:23 AM   #34
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that lingenfelter timing box is what you need. You also need to verify what your timing map is first. Plus that fuel psi is stable. I wouldn't do it on the Hypertech...I actually asked one the guys that helped write that tune when I was beta testing for them that exact question...that's a nono. get it dyno tuned. A dry shot has to have the mapping in the tune for the fuel. A wet shot with it on the stock tune, a colder plug and timing pulled may work fine. That's a MAY though. I quit reading about midway down page 1...hopefully you figured that out.
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Old 04-27-2013, 12:47 PM   #35
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How about this? If I was to transform this to a wet kit right away, all I would have to do is run the fuel line off the stock pump to the plate behind the throttle body right? (Assuming of course I had one to put there). After that if I am correct in my thinking its just run the nitrous line and the fuel line to the plate and Im good? I could probably at that that point change the tune or retard the timing myself 2 degrees and run the 150 shot. Just thinking out loud. Anyone got pics of how they ran the fuel line off the stock pump?
With no solenoid? What will keep the fuel from spraying all the time?!?

You should rethink all this before you blow it up. Don't reinvent the wheel. Either get a nitrous tune for your car, or get a wet kit and a timing controller.
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Old 04-28-2013, 11:04 PM   #36
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Ok we are getting into it now. BadBubba, I have been out of town for a couple days. I haven't even finished the install yet, (almost there though). I am going slow with this so I dont make mistakes, and like I stated earlier I am new to nitrous, so I am not taking chances or rushing. I take it the Hypertech is out. I get that. I am being told by the manufacturer of this kit and the shop tuner that I am ok to spray 75-100 dry into the MAF on stock timing with one step colder plug and the pump and injectors will take care of the rest, for 150 its a whole new ball park. I also hear the need to pull timing, 2 degrees per 50hp. Manufacturer intructions, (as per a phone call to them), states that I will be ok with this setup on my engine to 100 HP dry with pulling only 2 degrees of timing and the one step colder plug, again fuel pump and injectors will be ok. So here is my next question: To be able to spray the 100 all the time, like at the track or screwing around on the street, I will need that LNC200 to pull timing for me, and the one step colder plug. What is confusing me is the need for fuel mapping in the tune for only a 100 shot. The MAF sould see the extra oxygen molecule and push the injectors to match. I mean that is the whole concept of how the dry shot works, right? Obviously wet is safer and needed for higher spray levels, but a few guys have laughed at me for not just spraying the 100 shot now the way I am setup even with the hypertech. Thanks for all the replies, just fishing for the info here.

PS, just for the record, there are quite a few people messaging me as well as guys I run into on the street saying that this engine and how I am setup not will have no issue with the 100 shot dry, even with the hypertech. I will not name any names cause I dont want any bashing. Everyone is trying to be helpful.
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Old 04-28-2013, 11:34 PM   #37
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With no solenoid? What will keep the fuel from spraying all the time?!?

You should rethink all this before you blow it up. Don't reinvent the wheel. Either get a nitrous tune for your car, or get a wet kit and a timing controller.
Yes, I am not trying to be a dumbass here. I am probably at some point going to make it a wet kit. With the throttle body plate and nitrous in one side and a fuel line with solenoid wired to relay switch and activation box. I know my posts are all over the place, but I am trying to learn here. Thanks for the concern. And also I am going to get a wideband or some way to montior A/F ratios before I even fire off the 50 shot. I still have a ways to go before I try it.
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Old 04-29-2013, 08:43 AM   #38
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The mafs does not read oxygen molecules, it reads air temp and the mass of air coming in.

IMHO your doing it wrong. You'll need the LPE unit and a custom NOS tune when you arm the system. That's something you can't do with a handheld devise. Just my .2
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Old 04-29-2013, 09:49 AM   #39
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PS, just for the record, there are quite a few people messaging me as well as guys I run into on the street saying that this engine and how I am setup not will have no issue with the 100 shot dry, even with the hypertech. I will not name any names cause I dont want any bashing. Everyone is trying to be helpful.[/QUOTE]

Don't know why they would just pm you and not post. They may be able to add something that could be helpful to others. As long as they can explain it in a concise manner with no mysteries.
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Old 04-29-2013, 09:50 AM   #40
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MAF does not measure oxygen.
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Old 04-29-2013, 10:22 AM   #41
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I believe this is your system
http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store...?idproduct=118
This dry nitrous system is full adjustable from 50-100HP and up to 175HP with special tuning. The best part is that it works with your factory EFI system.This Dry system utilizes your factory injectors to add the extra fuel needed to make more power. By spraying Cold Nitrous oxide across the MAF (Mass Air Flow Sensor) it tricks the factory computer into thinking there is a lot more air going into the engine. The Vehicles factory ECM adds additional fuel via the OEM fuel injectors. Simple, clean and very powerful!*This System will work on 8 Cylinder Engines and comes complete with all the parts and instructions needed for installation. The system is adjustable from 50 to 100 HP.*

If going this route, still suggest window switch, colder plugs, logging the afr and timing retarder. And it would be great if you could log muliple pids as well.
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Old 04-29-2013, 11:49 AM   #42
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And checking those plugs!!

I'm just saying cause I'd hate for anyone to go thru the pain of blown motors and rebuilding. Lol
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Old 04-29-2013, 11:25 PM   #43
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Yes that is the system. So now that you see that, and what the instructions tell me, that is why I am thinking I can get away with what I stated earlier. I really should have just posted that earlier and saved the guesswork. Thanks BadBubba. Ok so now that we know this, lets say the safest and easies way to start with the 75 shot would be what? It only recommends pulling timing in excess of 100 shot. I know that would be safer, but I dont want to have to change tunes to use the nitrous, I want to be able to use the 100 any time and the 150 at the track. So if anyone can tell me, would running around full time on a nitrous type tune take performance away from daily driving on the motor? It seems that running full time with 2 step colder plugs and 4 degrees of timing pulled all the time would hurt everyday performance while not on the bottle. So there is my goal, to be able to use at least the 100 anytime and the 150 with a custom tune at the track. Any more thoughts? You guys have been great.
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Old 04-29-2013, 11:30 PM   #44
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I thought the MAF would see the extra oxygen, it seems to me that if it just sees mass air flow and you blow the nitrous directly on to it like the instructions state, it would be like an MAP on a turbo car seeing the mass of air coming in and having the computer adjust fuel delivery accordingly. Thats the way the feul system worked on my SRT4. Ok, now I think Im getting somewhere. Not so gun shy with it now.
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Old 04-30-2013, 07:20 AM   #45
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Yes that is the system. So now that you see that, and what the instructions tell me, that is why I am thinking I can get away with what I stated earlier. I really should have just posted that earlier and saved the guesswork. Thanks BadBubba. Ok so now that we know this, lets say the safest and easies way to start with the 75 shot would be what? It only recommends pulling timing in excess of 100 shot. I know that would be safer, but I dont want to have to change tunes to use the nitrous, I want to be able to use the 100 any time and the 150 at the track. So if anyone can tell me, would running around full time on a nitrous type tune take performance away from daily driving on the motor? It seems that running full time with 2 step colder plugs and 4 degrees of timing pulled all the time would hurt everyday performance while not on the bottle. So there is my goal, to be able to use at least the 100 anytime and the 150 with a custom tune at the track. Any more thoughts? You guys have been great.
To be on the safe side, I would pull timing on any shot. That's just me. Get a timing retarder, it only pulls timing when activated, such as when you would press your spray button or from the output of the window switch.
If the system can accurately "trick" everything to add the correct amount of fuel, then you should be fine. Have your shop datalog a run and review the log. If the afr is off, then your going to need to tune or get a wet system so that you can make adjustments with the fuel jet.
If you want to keep just a nitrous tune, it all depends on how many and how much the parameters need changed as to how it will run when off the bottle. You may not or just slightly feel the 4 degrees pulled and very little difference, if any, in colder plugs. From my experimenting. You have an L99 though, so ?? Also, sounds to me like your going to need a bigger bottle, you'll get about 5 or 6 quarter mile runs on the lower shot. Should also have a bottle warmer for consistant pressure. That can affect afr on a wet system, not sure about a dry system. Depends on how well it "tricks". But low bottle pressure will affect performance.
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Old 04-30-2013, 11:43 AM   #46
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I strongly suggest running the LNC-2000 to pull timing whenever your nitrous kit is armed. Get your car tuned NA with colder plugs also. That way when you're on motor you still have power but when you kick over to the nitrous your timing will be pulled and you're on the right plugs.
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Old 04-30-2013, 12:09 PM   #47
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I strongly suggest running the LNC-2000 to pull timing whenever your nitrous kit is armed. Get your car tuned NA with colder plugs also. That way when you're on motor you still have power but when you kick over to the nitrous your timing will be pulled and you're on the right plugs.
Yup!
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Old 04-30-2013, 02:32 PM   #48
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So for clarification, with an auto and dr's do i need a window switch if i'm not spinning, do the injectors stop spraying between shifts like i've been lead to believe with some mopars? hav'e gotten much info on this and i'd perfer not to have to buy one if i don't need it for my uses. also for a single fogger shark nozzle would a 150 shot be a safe amount to run through it? or would it start to have issues forcing me to go plate. other then that i have no other questions. i really didn't find a solid answer on these. i've seen vids of people spraying 150 through them on a dyno but i wasn't sure on the longevity of that style of spraying vs a plate system.
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Old 04-30-2013, 08:24 PM   #49
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Spray through shifts. Don't activate nitrous with on/off switch till over 3k Rpms. Set rev limiter on lnc2000 at about 6400 Rpms. No window switch needed. 150 shot is fine through single nozzle. Above that uneven distribution can become a problem. NGK plugs caused a light throttle miss on my car. Brisk GR12s plugs cleared it up, and they are an NGK8 heat range. GR14s is about like the NGK7 heat range and would be plenty cold for you. They are non projected tip and have cut back ground straps. Perfect for nitrous. Gap them to about .035.
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Old 04-30-2013, 10:52 PM   #50
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Alright, others chiming in. All the Nitrous information and setups we can get will help us all in the longrun. Even on my "beginners" type simple system. So here it is, (and thanks for all the comments so far), LNC200 to pull timing only when nitrous is armed. 2 step colder NGK plugs, (BR&EF 3346). AFR guage. No hypertech tune use when spraying, and custom tune of whatever they think is best based on my setup. I will probably go back to running on stock tune untill I get a custom one, I just hate how the damn transmission shifts on it.

Keep chiming in as the information is helpfull to others. Thanks.
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