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Old 04-29-2013, 11:25 PM   #43
05SilverStreak
 
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Yes that is the system. So now that you see that, and what the instructions tell me, that is why I am thinking I can get away with what I stated earlier. I really should have just posted that earlier and saved the guesswork. Thanks BadBubba. Ok so now that we know this, lets say the safest and easies way to start with the 75 shot would be what? It only recommends pulling timing in excess of 100 shot. I know that would be safer, but I dont want to have to change tunes to use the nitrous, I want to be able to use the 100 any time and the 150 at the track. So if anyone can tell me, would running around full time on a nitrous type tune take performance away from daily driving on the motor? It seems that running full time with 2 step colder plugs and 4 degrees of timing pulled all the time would hurt everyday performance while not on the bottle. So there is my goal, to be able to use at least the 100 anytime and the 150 with a custom tune at the track. Any more thoughts? You guys have been great.
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Old 04-29-2013, 11:30 PM   #44
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I thought the MAF would see the extra oxygen, it seems to me that if it just sees mass air flow and you blow the nitrous directly on to it like the instructions state, it would be like an MAP on a turbo car seeing the mass of air coming in and having the computer adjust fuel delivery accordingly. Thats the way the feul system worked on my SRT4. Ok, now I think Im getting somewhere. Not so gun shy with it now.
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Old 04-30-2013, 07:20 AM   #45
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Originally Posted by 05SilverStreak View Post
Yes that is the system. So now that you see that, and what the instructions tell me, that is why I am thinking I can get away with what I stated earlier. I really should have just posted that earlier and saved the guesswork. Thanks BadBubba. Ok so now that we know this, lets say the safest and easies way to start with the 75 shot would be what? It only recommends pulling timing in excess of 100 shot. I know that would be safer, but I dont want to have to change tunes to use the nitrous, I want to be able to use the 100 any time and the 150 at the track. So if anyone can tell me, would running around full time on a nitrous type tune take performance away from daily driving on the motor? It seems that running full time with 2 step colder plugs and 4 degrees of timing pulled all the time would hurt everyday performance while not on the bottle. So there is my goal, to be able to use at least the 100 anytime and the 150 with a custom tune at the track. Any more thoughts? You guys have been great.
To be on the safe side, I would pull timing on any shot. That's just me. Get a timing retarder, it only pulls timing when activated, such as when you would press your spray button or from the output of the window switch.
If the system can accurately "trick" everything to add the correct amount of fuel, then you should be fine. Have your shop datalog a run and review the log. If the afr is off, then your going to need to tune or get a wet system so that you can make adjustments with the fuel jet.
If you want to keep just a nitrous tune, it all depends on how many and how much the parameters need changed as to how it will run when off the bottle. You may not or just slightly feel the 4 degrees pulled and very little difference, if any, in colder plugs. From my experimenting. You have an L99 though, so ?? Also, sounds to me like your going to need a bigger bottle, you'll get about 5 or 6 quarter mile runs on the lower shot. Should also have a bottle warmer for consistant pressure. That can affect afr on a wet system, not sure about a dry system. Depends on how well it "tricks". But low bottle pressure will affect performance.
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Old 04-30-2013, 11:43 AM   #46
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I strongly suggest running the LNC-2000 to pull timing whenever your nitrous kit is armed. Get your car tuned NA with colder plugs also. That way when you're on motor you still have power but when you kick over to the nitrous your timing will be pulled and you're on the right plugs.
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Old 04-30-2013, 12:09 PM   #47
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I strongly suggest running the LNC-2000 to pull timing whenever your nitrous kit is armed. Get your car tuned NA with colder plugs also. That way when you're on motor you still have power but when you kick over to the nitrous your timing will be pulled and you're on the right plugs.
Yup!
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Old 04-30-2013, 02:32 PM   #48
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So for clarification, with an auto and dr's do i need a window switch if i'm not spinning, do the injectors stop spraying between shifts like i've been lead to believe with some mopars? hav'e gotten much info on this and i'd perfer not to have to buy one if i don't need it for my uses. also for a single fogger shark nozzle would a 150 shot be a safe amount to run through it? or would it start to have issues forcing me to go plate. other then that i have no other questions. i really didn't find a solid answer on these. i've seen vids of people spraying 150 through them on a dyno but i wasn't sure on the longevity of that style of spraying vs a plate system.
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Old 04-30-2013, 08:24 PM   #49
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Spray through shifts. Don't activate nitrous with on/off switch till over 3k Rpms. Set rev limiter on lnc2000 at about 6400 Rpms. No window switch needed. 150 shot is fine through single nozzle. Above that uneven distribution can become a problem. NGK plugs caused a light throttle miss on my car. Brisk GR12s plugs cleared it up, and they are an NGK8 heat range. GR14s is about like the NGK7 heat range and would be plenty cold for you. They are non projected tip and have cut back ground straps. Perfect for nitrous. Gap them to about .035.
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Old 04-30-2013, 10:52 PM   #50
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Alright, others chiming in. All the Nitrous information and setups we can get will help us all in the longrun. Even on my "beginners" type simple system. So here it is, (and thanks for all the comments so far), LNC200 to pull timing only when nitrous is armed. 2 step colder NGK plugs, (BR&EF 3346). AFR guage. No hypertech tune use when spraying, and custom tune of whatever they think is best based on my setup. I will probably go back to running on stock tune untill I get a custom one, I just hate how the damn transmission shifts on it.

Keep chiming in as the information is helpfull to others. Thanks.
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Old 04-30-2013, 10:54 PM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shiznight View Post
So for clarification, with an auto and dr's do i need a window switch if i'm not spinning, do the injectors stop spraying between shifts like i've been lead to believe with some mopars? hav'e gotten much info on this and i'd perfer not to have to buy one if i don't need it for my uses. also for a single fogger shark nozzle would a 150 shot be a safe amount to run through it? or would it start to have issues forcing me to go plate. other then that i have no other questions. i really didn't find a solid answer on these. i've seen vids of people spraying 150 through them on a dyno but i wasn't sure on the longevity of that style of spraying vs a plate system.
As long as your good with activating the nitrous via push button above 3k, spraying through the shift (or letting go of the push button so you don't) and have a tune or a device that can cut spark before oem tune rev limit rpm, you "should" be fine. As Dan said, use the LNC2000 to pull timing and set the upper rpm limit below the factory tune rev limit rpm. If not, you could break loose and hit the stock rpm limit and it would cut fuel, not good. Need to watch your afr, detonation, fuel pressure, possibly injector duty cycle and your cats.. Colder plugs needed, as well as good fuel. Issue with a dry system is how do you adjust fuel if the afr is not correct. Tune would be needed. Not aware of injectors cutting back on the shift. Window switch removes human error and usually adds the ability of a progressive system. Lots of ways to make it work, depends what your comfortable with having in your ride.
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Old 05-01-2013, 04:07 AM   #52
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I don't like buttons you hold. I like an on/off switch and a wot throttle switch. Get a SCT handheld and a Jannetty tune or something like that. Just the trans part of the tune will be worth it. I love my zex wet kit. It wires into the tps so no wot switch needed. Adjust fuel jet size for proper AFR, set lnc2000 to pull proper amount of timing, put in proper plugs, and all done.

Again, do some research on those NGK plugs. They caused cruise rpm light throttle misfires that I could feel when cruising up the interstate.
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Old 05-01-2013, 05:05 AM   #53
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No cats here, ANd according to the manufacturer MAF adjusts fuel based on what it sees coming in. That is the whole basis for the dry system. The instructions state, "Spraying cold nitrous across the MAF will cause a significant increase in fuel delivery and the N2O will allow you to burn it." Their whole claim to safety with this system is the direction of the dry nozzle and how it hits the MAF. This is also how you get a little HP out of the CAI. Cooler air, More air, MAF adds fuel.

Edit: and just for the record, (and I know others have already disagreed on this), but they also state the O2 sensors play a role in fuel delivery too. like in addition to the MAF monitoring what is coming in, the o2 sensors monito what is going out. So 2 measures of air coming in to add fuel by stock fuel system, and the N20 to burn it. Makes sense to me.
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Old 05-01-2013, 07:04 AM   #54
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No cats here, ANd according to the manufacturer MAF adjusts fuel based on what it sees coming in. That is the whole basis for the dry system. The instructions state, "Spraying cold nitrous across the MAF will cause a significant increase in fuel delivery and the N2O will allow you to burn it." Their whole claim to safety with this system is the direction of the dry nozzle and how it hits the MAF. This is also how you get a little HP out of the CAI. Cooler air, More air, MAF adds fuel.
Yes, I understand what they are stating, that is their claim and i agree it will add fuel. But what happens if you do not get the 11.5-11.7 afr? A tune will be needed. When the kit is installed, it may be spot on, but then again ?? I'd like to see some logs with a stock tune from someone who has this system.
If you have no cats, do you have LT headers? If so, what is your afr? You may be lean already with your canned tune. If the Dynotune system is designed for a non modded car and you are modded, then how will it perform? And with your canned tune? Would hate to see the engine get damaged. Just throwing some stuff out there.

Install the system
Spray at the correct rpm
Datalog-make necessary changes if needed
Then have at it
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Old 05-01-2013, 04:04 PM   #55
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By your theory I didn't need a tune when I installed my supercharger. MAF sees more air and adds more fuel. Then o2 sensors fine tune. But.......

Not the case. MAF curve needs rebuilt. Timing needs corrected. Trans, yull kill it with more power and no tuning. O2 sensors do not correct at WOT I don't care what you were told. Call Ted Jannetty or any reputable experienced tuner and have a 5 minute conversation.

Bottom line, You either need a wet kit and a timing controller, or a dry kit and a tune.

Good luck.
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Old 05-01-2013, 04:32 PM   #56
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By your theory I didn't need a tune when I installed my supercharger. MAF sees more air and adds more fuel. Then o2 sensors fine tune. But.......

Not the case. MAF curve needs rebuilt. Timing needs corrected. Trans, yull kill it with more power and no tuning. O2 sensors do not correct at WOT I don't care what you were told. Call Ted Jannetty or any reputable experienced tuner and have a 5 minute conversation.

Bottom line, You either need a wet kit and a timing controller, or a dry kit and a tune.

Good luck.
Good luck and that the bottom line!
Now it's your turn to do YOU.

Call lethal call LMR, call LME, call 510 racing, call SpeedInc, Call TSP
They will tell you the same thing. Even a very reputable nitrous vendor mentioned what you need bud.
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