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Old 06-23-2009, 01:57 AM   #1
Adam
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subwoofer interfering with radio reception.

Local radio, not xm.

Anyone else experience this? When I first got the car, I got a lot of stations decently, now with the sub installed, I get only a few of the stronger ones, and the ones that no longer come in make a really weird noise, not like regular white noise.

It's not a huge deal, but has got me curious.
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Old 06-23-2009, 06:57 AM   #2
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Quote:
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Local radio, not xm.

Anyone else experience this? When I first got the car, I got a lot of stations decently, now with the sub installed, I get only a few of the stronger ones, and the ones that no longer come in make a really weird noise, not like regular white noise.

It's not a huge deal, but has got me curious.
The antenna is in the back window,so if the subwoofer is vibrating the glass it very well could affect the FM reception.Also if the amp or power cable for the amp is near it,it could cause some induction.
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Old 06-23-2009, 10:34 AM   #3
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That's interesting. Guess I won't worry about it, I'll be using XM, I think the last time I had the local radio on was 4 years ago.
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Old 06-23-2009, 11:01 AM   #4
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Did you get your windows tinted also? Metallic window tint can interfere with the FM antenna reception.

Did you do the sub install or did someone else do it? You might want to check around under the rear window and see if they/you accidentally knocked the antenna connection loose during the sub install.
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Old 06-23-2009, 11:02 AM   #5
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I've seen something similiar before. You probably put in another amp for the sub. Make sure it is grounded properly.
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Old 06-24-2009, 11:06 PM   #6
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It's grounded properly, no window tinting, installed it myself. If I somehow knocked the antenna cable loose, I wouldn't even know where it's at to look.

It's not shaking the glass during testing, it's at low volume and it's not like there's much bass coming over the radio.

I have tested, and the interference gets worse when the sub comes on, I can test this easily since the sub uses signal sensing to turn on.

It's like it's trying to lock onto certain signals, and can't. Some signals are automatic, but there's one in particular I'd like to get and it's from a station probably 90 miles away and goes out only when the sub is on. There are likely others, but that one interested me the most.

edit: it's because I have a class D amp, does mode switching or something like that, causes RF interference, it's a jl 250 watt amp, anyone know of an easy fix?

Last edited by Adam; 06-25-2009 at 12:20 AM.
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Old 06-25-2009, 01:34 PM   #7
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you may have wired something wrong. send pics of your job.
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Old 06-25-2009, 01:42 PM   #8
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another thing it could be a problem with your fm tuner. disconnect the sub and see if it still happens, what wires did you tap into and what signals did you get. if that amp has signal sensing you have to make sure its getting the right signal from the stock amp. the factory amp is located behind driver side rear bumper. have you messed with it.
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Old 06-25-2009, 01:42 PM   #9
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so you used a hi low converter right?
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Old 06-25-2009, 01:50 PM   #10
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Where are you pulling power from? Run a fused line direct from the battery to a power distribution block then amp. Might want to try a capacitor as well.
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Old 06-25-2009, 02:19 PM   #11
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Bad ground
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Old 06-25-2009, 03:09 PM   #12
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I agree with the bad ground...
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Old 06-25-2009, 04:34 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adam View Post
It's grounded properly,

I have tested, and the interference gets worse when the sub comes on, I can test this easily since the sub uses signal sensing to turn on.

edit: it's because I have a class D amp, does mode switching or something like that, causes RF interference, it's a jl 250 watt amp, anyone know of an easy fix?
Put a 0.1uF ( 20V or greater cap ) 12V to ground on your amp. Also clip ferrite beads to ALL wires connected to your amp.

This MAY fix it. The amp may have a problem, as it should not generate RFI if it is designed properly.

Re-check your grounds. The amp should be screwed to the metal of the car.
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Old 06-25-2009, 09:38 PM   #14
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I don't know what a 0.1uf whatever is.

The ground is good, trust me.

Class D amps are known to cause this sort of thing, at least that's what I've read, google it if you want.

Keep in mind the amp is right below the rear window, where the antenna is located, which is probably why other people with class D's don't notice it.

The only good tip so far is the ferrite clips, though if you could be more specific about which wires, power, ground, rca, and speaker?
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Old 06-26-2009, 06:01 AM   #15
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Quote:
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I don't know what a 0.1uf whatever is.

The ground is good, trust me.

Class D amps are known to cause this sort of thing, at least that's what I've read, google it if you want.

The only good tip so far is the ferrite clips, though if you could be more specific about which wires, power, ground, rca, and speaker?
You can get the capacitors at Radio Shack for a few cents each. They work by coupling the unwanted signals to ground.

Class D amps known to do this? Fine. Those that do violate FCC Part 15. http://www.fcc.gov/oet/info/rules/pa...5_07-10-08.pdf

The ferrites? Clamp one to each and every wire connected to your amp, as you don't know which one is radiating radio signals. Just measure the OD of your wires and get some that fit over them. They work by soaking up the radiated signals.

Also, make sure that your power and signal leads going to and from your amp don't run parallel to your antenna lead, as this will cause interference to couple from one wire to another. If wires must cross, they need to do so at an angle, with 90 degrees being optimal.


Hope this helps.

Last edited by patriotpa; 06-27-2009 at 06:03 AM. Reason: handholding
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Old 06-26-2009, 01:50 PM   #16
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I don't know where the antenna lead is, so I don't know what angles. I moved the box around the trunk some and tried pivoting it, and nothing helped.

Could you also explain what you think a capacitor would do to help?

edit:

would this work: http://www.amazon.com/FERRITE-CORE-C...6043221&sr=8-1

And where do I place them, right where the cords connect to the amp? The power and ground are 8 guage, is 1/4 big enough for them, and is it too big for thin wires?

Last edited by Adam; 06-26-2009 at 02:10 PM.
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Old 06-26-2009, 05:52 PM   #17
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where did you tap your signals from?
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Old 06-26-2009, 06:31 PM   #18
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The rear speakers.
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Old 06-26-2009, 08:47 PM   #19
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class d amps are notorious for interference... i sold my JL audio class D amp and went to a kicker amp on my old car and had no more noise interference...
i guess its the type of connections, i believe class d amps should go with actual preamp outputs not tapping then signal...
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Old 06-30-2009, 07:26 AM   #20
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so if you tapped into your rear speakers you used a hi low converter right? i might be able to help you if you answer my questions i posted before. not saying i am an expert but the shop that does audio in lambos and ferraris sure in the hell know alot.
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Old 06-30-2009, 07:31 AM   #21
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When did your sub come in? Still waiting on mine!
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Old 07-23-2011, 03:44 PM   #22
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Using chokes to get FM back

Quote:
Originally Posted by patriotpa View Post
Put a 0.1uF ( 20V or greater cap ) 12V to ground on your amp. Also clip ferrite beads to ALL wires connected to your amp.

This MAY fix it. The amp may have a problem, as it should not generate RFI if it is designed properly.

Re-check your grounds. The amp should be screwed to the metal of the car.
This worked for me. I installed 6 square Radio Shack chokes around all the input cable, the 0.1uF cap on the power input to the amp and 1/2" chokes, on each end of the speaker wire for every speaker. The chokes are all wrapped three times, expect on the sub were I installed two 1/2" chokes on each end and wrapped them once. The rear speakers are the worst offenders, but all of them have some impact. I don't think the input wires or power is affecting it much, if at all. The reslut isn't perfect, there might be some FM interference still present, but very little. I live 40 miles from the nearest decent radio station and can pickup pretty much everything I would expect to get. Before adding all this hardware all I could get was the one local station. Now for example I can pick up a station that is 50 miles from my house. Would have changed the amp, but the audio specs on the JL HD900/5 are very hard to beat and getting everything it offers in one amp is even harder to find. Thanks for the idea!

I also had poor XM performance and found the installer had used a self tapping sheet metal screw to ground the amp, I changed this to a ground stud and ran the ground from the amp to the stud and from the stud to the battery ground point, the extra wire is probably overkill. That fixed the XM issue. The amp is mounted under the rear dash, which is probably the worst possible place if you want to prevent FM problems, just had no idea the amp would cause this issue until it was already mounted. From what I read, it is likely any JL class D amp would have caused some level of FM problems for me no matter where it is mounted and I like the location, keeps it out of the way when using the trunk and allows it to get plenty of air. Sounds fantastic. :-)

Lastly, if you really want to know what is causing the problem, I found this very helpful
http://www.audioholics.com/education/amplifier-technology/switching-amplifier-class-d-basics

Last edited by wernerte; 07-23-2011 at 04:03 PM.
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