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Suspension / Brakes / Chassis All suspension, brakes and chassis discussions.

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Old 04-12-2013, 09:28 PM   #1
Monchy36
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DIY: V6 rotors & brakes

OK Guys! easy with my English...
Here we go:


Tools i use:
socket wrench braker
1/2" socket wrench
14,16,18mm socket
hammer
screwdriver
T30 Torx bit
piece of hanger
disc brake pad spreader
WD-40


1) remove cap from master cilinder
2) lift car,remove tires
3) remove caliper bolts(2) using 14mm socket
4) remove caliper & pads (use piece of hanger to hanged on spring to protect brake line)
5) remove caliper holder bolts (2) using 18mm socket
Note: back caliper holder bolts need 16mm socket
6) push back pistons using brake pad spreader
7) remove T30 torx bolt from rotor and remove rotor (i have to hit it with hammer on center to loose it up)
Note: back rotors need to disengage E-brake to remove

install new rotors, install everything back... took me 2 1/2 hours by myself...

Tip: use WD-40 before remove T30 torx bolt and rotors to loose them up from rust...
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Old 04-12-2013, 09:35 PM   #2
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What pads and rotors did you use?

Have you used them hard enough to feel any difference?
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Old 04-12-2013, 09:39 PM   #3
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What pads and rotors did you use?

Have you used them hard enough to feel any difference?
give it a little test and feel a lot better! i let you know tomorrow...
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Old 04-12-2013, 09:54 PM   #4
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What is the diff between the caliber holder bolts and the caliber bolts?
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Old 04-12-2013, 09:56 PM   #5
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BTW looks good
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Old 04-12-2013, 10:00 PM   #6
menendez1293
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Looks great. have you driven it yet?
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Old 04-12-2013, 10:06 PM   #7
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Nice
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Old 04-13-2013, 04:53 AM   #8
Monchy36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kjkjr27 View Post
What is the diff between the caliber holder bolts and the caliber bolts?
Caliber bolts are 14mm you remove them to remove brake pads first and get access to push back pistons, caliber holder bolts are 18mm front, 16mm back you need to remove this so you remove rotors...
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Old 04-13-2013, 04:54 AM   #9
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Looks great. have you driven it yet?
Give a good drive to work and feel amazing! Braking is so much better! I'm really glad that I did it!
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Old 04-13-2013, 04:55 AM   #10
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Nice
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Old 04-13-2013, 12:14 PM   #11
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Looks like I may have to make yet another trip to lowes to buy more sockets...shoulda just bought a huge starter back haha but at this point it would be pointless . I do have a little kit for like 6mm to 12mm haha!
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Old 04-13-2013, 12:52 PM   #12
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good work monchy! going to bookmark this for the future!
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Old 04-13-2013, 01:01 PM   #13
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Great job on the write up. This is on my list of things to do once I need a new set of brakes. Not sure when that will be, at my current highway driving habit, might be a few years yet.
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Old 04-13-2013, 01:23 PM   #14
Monchy36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kjkjr27 View Post
Looks like I may have to make yet another trip to lowes to buy more sockets...shoulda just bought a huge starter back haha but at this point it would be pointless . I do have a little kit for like 6mm to 12mm haha!
Just go to Sears they have a special on craftsmen tools...

PS: the brake pad spreader is very handy! Only cost $8 on AutoZone...
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Old 04-13-2013, 01:24 PM   #15
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good work monchy! going to bookmark this for the future!
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Old 04-13-2013, 01:26 PM   #16
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Great job on the write up. This is on my list of things to do once I need a new set of brakes. Not sure when that will be, at my current highway driving habit, might be a few years yet.
I would not worry... I have my car 2 years and when I took the factory pads off they still almost new... I just want the ceramic ones...
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Old 04-13-2013, 06:37 PM   #17
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got mine installed and got to say there is a big difference with the Hawk HPS pads. I will be posting my pictures and other things in my build thread
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Old 04-13-2013, 07:21 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Monchy36 View Post
Just go to Sears they have a special on craftsmen tools...

PS: the brake pad spreader is very handy! Only cost $8 on AutoZone...
I never knew they made such a tool. I always used a C clamp and the old pads. That tool is too cool and convienant. Guess I am picking one of those up soon. Thank - you.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Monchy36 View Post
I would not worry... I have my car 2 years and when I took the factory pads off they still almost new... I just want the ceramic ones...
LOL.......Yeah I think I need to just pull the trigger on this one. Thinking about it my wife drives a 06 trail Blazer with 100K miles on it and I wnet to do the brakes last summer and asked why. The pads still had over half the life still left on them.

Quote:
Originally Posted by menendez1293 View Post
got mine installed and got to say there is a big difference with the Hawk HPS pads. I will be posting my pictures and other things in my build thread
That is good to hear. Adding this to my for sure next mods list.

Thanks guys. ..........
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Old 04-13-2013, 07:25 PM   #19
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Quote:
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I never knew they made such a tool. I always used a C clamp and the old pads. That tool is too cool and convienant. Guess I am picking one of those up soon. Thank - you.




LOL.......Yeah I think I need to just pull the trigger on this one. Thinking about it my wife drives a 06 trail Blazer with 100K miles on it and I wnet to do the brakes last summer and asked why. The pads still had over half the life still left on them.



That is good to hear. Adding this to my for sure next mods list.

Thanks guys. ..........
I only had 5430 miles and 3 and a half years on my rotors and pads so they were basically brand new. It would have taken me another 10 years before i had to replace them from wear So i ordered the Rotors because they were on sale and Patrick From GM parts House gave me a great deal on the Hawk HPS pads.

Heres is link to my post of the pads and rotors
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...=238881&page=2
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Old 04-15-2013, 04:19 PM   #20
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Went to install my rotors and pads today.........TOTAL DISASTER!!!!!!!!!!!

After 2 and a half hours I only got the front two rotors done and that was it. I had an extremely hard time trying to get my pads to fit over the dam rotor so eventually I gave up and just used the stock pads. My stock rotors were really rusted on so I managed to break them loose with a hammer hitting the back side of it. I tried to do the rear ones but have problems breaking the rust on that since I couldn't freely rotate it like on the front so I gave up (and yes the emergency brake was off)...I am just really pissed I couldn't do everything at once. Now I'll have to do it all over again lol. Btw the pads I bought that were too thick to fit over my slotted/drilled rotors are the Hawk HPS.
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Old 04-15-2013, 04:26 PM   #21
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Went to install my rotors and pads today.........TOTAL DISASTER!!!!!!!!!!!

After 2 and a half hours I only got the front two rotors done and that was it. I had an extremely hard time trying to get my pads to fit over the dam rotor so eventually I gave up and just used the stock pads. My stock rotors were really rusted on so I managed to break them loose with a hammer hitting the back side of it. I tried to do the rear ones but have problems breaking the rust on that since I couldn't freely rotate it like on the front so I gave up (and yes the emergency brake was off)...I am just really pissed I couldn't do everything at once. Now I'll have to do it all over again lol. Btw the pads I bought that were too thick to fit over my slotted/drilled rotors are the Hawk HPS.
Did you use WD-40? I have the same problem with 2003 Mazda 6 but soaked in WD-40 and hammer in the center go it loose... And I don't get why the pads don't fit? Did you push the pistons all the way in?
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Old 04-15-2013, 04:30 PM   #22
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Did you use WD-40? I have the same problem with 2003 Mazda 6 but soaked in WD-40 and hammer in the center go it loose... And I don't get why the pads don't fit? Did you push the pistons all the way in?
Yea I'll have to go out and get some WD-40. I thought so? I took the caliber apart (which is effing heavy btw) and put the pads on with the frame of the caliber bolted back onto the car and then the rest of it wouldn't fit over the pads, idk I'll have to hit up a club member for some help lol.
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Old 04-15-2013, 08:16 PM   #23
Monchy36
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Yea I'll have to go out and get some WD-40. I thought so? I took the caliber apart (which is effing heavy btw) and put the pads on with the frame of the caliber bolted back onto the car and then the rest of it wouldn't fit over the pads, idk I'll have to hit up a club member for some help lol.
WD-40 always before start loosing parts always make it easier... about the pads sound like the pistons need to go back in more... there's no reason for not fitting only if there not belong on the car...
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Old 04-15-2013, 09:54 PM   #24
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Idk haha ill figure it out next week or something.
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Old 08-03-2013, 08:58 PM   #25
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A buddy and I did this today w/ R1 slotted rotors. I have <11k on stock pads, 80% thickness left so I re-used them. Is that a problem?? I read good and bad about mixing new rotors/old pads.
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