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Old 04-25-2013, 11:48 AM   #18
nyrfan
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Happened on my 11 LT. Do yourself a favor and trade that sucker in for an SS. No oil issues.
Thats what I did. The only thing I burn now is more gas, and it's so freaking enjoyable!
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Old 04-25-2013, 11:49 AM   #19
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Thats what I did. The only thing I burn now is more gas, and it's so freaking enjoyable!
brother.
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Old 04-25-2013, 01:28 PM   #20
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Sounds like the service tech needs to find a new career.
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Old 04-25-2013, 08:42 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by SC2150 View Post
If interested, I can gve a summary of all the causes and fixes to prevent this for new buyers, and to help cure as much as possible for current owners already at more than a 1000 miles plus.

Just ask.
I'm interested as well. I don't have a problem, but I don't want to have a problem develop either!
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Old 04-25-2013, 08:49 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by SC2150 View Post
If interested, I can gve a summary of all the causes and fixes to prevent this for new buyers, and to help cure as much as possible for current owners already at more than a 1000 miles plus.

Just ask.
same here
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Old 04-25-2013, 09:11 PM   #23
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I`m interested as well.
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Old 04-25-2013, 09:30 PM   #24
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Makes me glad I ditched my 2LT from what you guys are saying. I thought it was a great little engine but I only put 9000 miles on the car. I found the engine to be overly complicated for what it was.

I generally have always avoided V6 vehicles my whole life. 4's and 8's for me. Had one S10 with a 2.8, it was a turd too so I unloaded it at 55,000 miles.
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Old 04-25-2013, 09:33 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by SC2150 View Post
If interested, I can gve a summary of all the causes and fixes to prevent this for new buyers, and to help cure as much as possible for current owners already at more than a 1000 miles plus.

Just ask.
What would that be? I'm interested?
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Old 04-25-2013, 09:40 PM   #26
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What would that be? I'm interested?
Count me in as well!!!
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Old 04-25-2013, 09:51 PM   #27
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Sounds like the service tech needs to find a new career.
I would never work at a flat rate shop. I cringe thinking of letting those guys work on my car. I don't like how they are always racing against the clock. Doesn't help that they always want you to come get your car and bring it back later when more parts show up, or the times they have screwed up my ride.
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Old 04-25-2013, 10:19 PM   #28
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In for the info to.


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Old 04-26-2013, 07:55 AM   #29
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I would also like the info.
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Old 04-26-2013, 09:42 AM   #30
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Hello jfcamaro,

I understand your frustrations with the wait and time away from your vehicle. I would like to monitor this situation. If possible, could you private message me your name, VIN#, current mileage and involved dealer information? I will contact your dealer to inquire about the process going forward and follow up with you.

Reggie B.
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Old 04-26-2013, 09:49 AM   #31
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Old 04-26-2013, 11:07 AM   #32
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I will go through the steps from when the car arrives from the factory:

First, the engine breaking procedure is to reduce warranty and legal claims.....it has nothing to do with breaking in the engine for long trouble free life. If there is a defect, it will show in the first 1000 miles if driven somewhat hard so babying it for 1400 miles is not good.

The cylinders come with a cross hatch hone finish that is somewhat abrasive so the piston rings seat, or wear in properly to the cylinder walls. If driven easy, after the first 100-200 miles the cylinder walls have worn smooth and a hard glaze forms on then so there is little chance the rings have seated in properly and never will. This causes excess blow by and allows oil to be drawn into the combustion chamber on the intake stroke thus oil consumption. In the old days (I have been building engines for almost 39 years) engines came pre-filled with breakin oil thathad enough protection for the bearings and journals but still allowed enough friction to properly seat rings, but it was critical to drain it after 500-1000 miles or engine damage would occur. Now days, buyers want to buy a car and just put gas in the first 10,000 miles so they come prefilled with a good protecting oil that can last that long (it's all marketing). And most never open the hood to ever check fluids ....the manufacturers want all maintanance done by the dealer service centers for reacurring revenue streams.

Then, the PCV systems are not designed to prevent oil mist from being ingested into the intake air charge (cost is to high....the engineers are the best, but have budget constraints so shortcuts are part of every aspect in a cars manufacturing...or we would be paying $200k for a camaro like a ferarri or Lambo which most dont realize the competitive doings between the big 3 here and the imports) and this causes coking on the intake valves:

No fuel travels past the intake valves on todays direct injection engines so this is what the valves look like in 15-20k miles. This wears the valve guides out and then oil is drawn in past the guides adding to the consumption issues (todays top tier fuels do nothing to keep valves clean on DI engines where in the past, port injection sprayed fuel into the intake ports and the additives kept deposits from forming).

Then, as these deposits break loose, some are forced between the piston and cylinder wall causing scouring and further damage that allows even more ingestion:

The picture above is of a piston from a 3.6DI GM engine with 8k miles on it. You can see the side of the piston closest to where the fuel injector spray hits has very little scouring on the skirt....due to very little build up. Now look at the opposite side where you can see scouring that is already compromising the piston from the hard particles breaking off (this engine had 1 upper induction cleaning, which is fine...just dont do it to often):



Then, the engine do not have PCV valves anymore so they have a fixed orfice PCV barb that limits the ability for the engine to evacuate, and this forces oil mist into the clean side inlet again adding to the issue as these small holes clog with buildup:


So, this can only be prevented by breaking the engine in hard the first 500 miles with a good conventional oil, then drain and ONLY use full synthetic, not dexos blend!

And, a GOOD function oil separating catchcan from day one so NO deposits form (and only a few cans are actually worth using, no matter how nice they look or the claims).

Then, the PCV orfice needs to be drilled to 5/64" both the top and the bottom 2 holes, and you will not have these issues.

Now, there are exceptions to the rule and some luck out and dont have excess consumption, but ALL DI motors, no matter what car brand, have the intake valve coking issues.

Hope this helps.

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Old 04-26-2013, 11:47 AM   #33
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These are EXCELLENT engines....just amazing in fact, but if you follow the factory break in and do not take the steps pointed out, odds are you will have the ingestion issues. And be aware, in 2014-2015 all v8's will be DI as well.

Now, if you have miles on already, get a good catchcan installed ASAP, do the drill mod, and odds are the consumption will reduce after a few thousand miles as the rings may free back up without the PCV side ingestion. We see that app 70% of the time.

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Old 04-26-2013, 11:48 AM   #34
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Tracy,

I was hoping you were going to specifically address the timing chain failure issue, not just the general oil consumption issue from improper break in or the DI intake valve coking.

I understand that oil consumption will eventually lead to low oil levels, which contributes to timing chain failures on these engines, but is there a specific design problem that you know of WRT the chains and how they are lubricated?

I was also under the impression that the LFX had improved in this area vs the LLT. Is that not the case in your experience?

Is there anything we can do other than maintain proper oil levels and use full synthetic oil to prevent timing chain problems? Do the LLT and LFX require any different care to avoid this issue, in your opinion?

Thanks for your insight.
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