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Old 05-08-2013, 06:55 AM   #1
Stephen12ZL1

 
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Homemade Mild to Wild switch for "closed" at idle ?'s

I know the typical "mild to wild" switch will only do a stock position or open position. With my exhaust as it is, I would love to have a closed position at idle or startup. ADM has some sort of stealth exhaust setup for this situation but I'm sure some of you here have done this already. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Hognutz?
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Old 05-08-2013, 08:33 AM   #2
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Sounds interesting
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Old 05-08-2013, 09:10 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stephen12ZL1 View Post
I know the typical "mild to wild" switch will only do a stock position or open position. With my exhaust as it is, I would love to have a closed position at idle or startup. ADM has some sort of stealth exhaust setup for this situation but I'm sure some of you here have done this already. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Hognutz?

Too many complaining neighbors in the morning? Tell them to move!

Anyways, I had my bumper off the other day and it looks like its vacuumed controlled (I could be wrong), if so I'd say you probably could add a T into the existing line and add your own vacuum and switch to control it being closed on start up. Dunno for sure it was just a thought.
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Old 05-08-2013, 09:28 AM   #4
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The issue I see is that the "at rest" state of the valves is open, so if the car has been sitting they will be open at startup for a second or 2 even if commanded to shut. The best way would be to add an actuator that keeps the valves closed the releases.

I did the hillbilly method for testing and took tie straps to hold the valves closed. I wanted to hear the difference and it is quieter on startup.
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Old 05-08-2013, 09:31 AM   #5
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my .02 is look for the little module that controls the vaccum. In my mind the harness into that should be where you need to tap into do do that.

I just want to make that wired like the vett's and on/off type wiring instead of this built in rpm control liek the ZL1 has. or do a 3 position setup off/on/stock

I have not done this yet but this is where I am going to start looking when i do. in my mind hopefully there will just be say no voltage to a wire at idle and then past the rpm point there will be voltage. once you were to find this wire your good to go. there are other ways they could control that though so this is all speculation on my part.

I am pretty sure I saw someone say the other day there was just a gray wire in that harness the tapped into or something. a voltmetter or test light should tell the whole stroy on this setup.

This seems easy to do in my head I just have not got the coin together to by my headrs yet.
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Old 05-08-2013, 11:35 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mmarx82 View Post
Too many complaining neighbors in the morning? Tell them to move!

Anyways, I had my bumper off the other day and it looks like its vacuumed controlled (I could be wrong), if so I'd say you probably could add a T into the existing line and add your own vacuum and switch to control it being closed on start up. Dunno for sure it was just a thought.
Wife complaining is much worse! She's says its gone from loud to obnoxious! I will check that actuator and the wiring. Thanks.
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Old 05-08-2013, 11:36 AM   #7
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When you use mild to wild switch, when in mild the car will operate as designed the valve will open when rpm's reach 3500. When switched to wild it disables that functionality therefore the valve is alway open.

Are you sure a mild to wild switch would not solve the issue entirely?

What am I missing?
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Old 05-08-2013, 12:24 PM   #8
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Quote:
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When you use mild to wild switch, when in mild the car will operate as designed the valve will open when rpm's reach 3500. When switched to wild it disables that functionality therefore the valve is alway open.

Are you sure a mild to wild switch would not solve the issue entirely?

What am I missing?

Your missing that on the ZL1 the stock setting is for the valves to be open when at idle and open when at full throttle. He wants the valves to be closed at idle. The mild to wild switch will only leave it open all the time or let the system run in the stock setting which is open at idle.
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Old 05-19-2013, 07:34 PM   #9
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anyone done this yet or confirmed operation?
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Old 05-19-2013, 08:49 PM   #10
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there is a wire coming off of the FPCM that controls the opening or closing of the exhaust,
just switch it there......that's what I did , closed or open when ever I want.
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Old 05-19-2013, 10:01 PM   #11
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Not so easy. The vacuum operated valves are OPEN when the car is off, it is their "resting" state. To have them fully closed AT startup every time a mechanical device would need to hold them closed. I "hillbillied" it by using zip ties to hold the valves closed so I could hear the difference. There is a fairly noticeable difference.
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Old 05-20-2013, 04:38 AM   #12
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I would think you could do this... http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=226858

But instead of a ON/OFF switch use a ON/OFF/ON and run a wire for the extra ON to a (constant power/something that has power when the car is on). So in ON position 1 it will run factory, In the OFF position the flaps will be open all the time, and in ON position 2 the flaps will be closed all the time.
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Old 05-20-2013, 08:34 AM   #13
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That won't work. The valves need something mechanical to hold them closed at start.
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Old 05-23-2013, 04:48 AM   #14
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Quote:
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That won't work. The valves need something mechanical to hold them closed at start.
Only for a second when you first start the car I'm thinking. Its just up to the person if they want a semi-permanent solution to keep it closed all the time, or have a switch where they can be selective with a second of lag when the car is started.
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Old 05-24-2013, 07:49 AM   #15
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So what would be the max you would pay for plug and play solution?

$50,$75,$100 ....we can build these but we will not
Do it for free due to limited market.
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Old 05-24-2013, 08:04 AM   #16
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So what would be the max you would pay for plug and play solution?

$50,$75,$100 ....we can build these but we will not
Do it for free due to limited market.
I am sure it is a wire splice, toggle, relay, etc. I checked under the car where the vacuum valve block is located and disconnected the "fuel injector" style plug and ran 12v+ to the pins on that box and nothing happened. Of course I started the car first. I wonder if the vacuum block is different in a vette which operates the way I want the ZL1 to behave. I would pay $50 for a kit with instructions.
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Old 05-24-2013, 05:52 PM   #17
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Quote:
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So what would be the max you would pay for plug and play solution?

$50,$75,$100 ....we can build these but we will not
Do it for free due to limited market.
based on the current prices for some of kits I would think you could get people to pay $50-75 pretty easy.

$100 might be an issue as that would put you on the expensive side.

I would pay $50 just not have to cut without blinking. $75 I would be on the fence might cave and buy. $100 I would probably hack around on my own solution.
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Old 05-25-2013, 12:37 PM   #18
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Quote:
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based on the current prices for some of kits I would think you could get people to pay $50-75 pretty easy.

$100 might be an issue as that would put you on the expensive side.

I would pay $50 just not have to cut without blinking. $75 I would be on the fence might cave and buy. $100 I would probably hack around on my own solution.
So here is the deal:

OEM HARNESS COST $23.95
RELAY AND SWITCH COST -$17.95
WIRING - $3.00
BOX - $1.00
PACKING MATERIAL - $1.00
LABOR TO BUILD IT - $20

Then we must make a profit.

Does not look like we can build it with standard mark up and come close to $50

Guess we will keep doing them in house only.

OR

We sell instructions on how to do it for - $20 and you have to source all the parts.
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Old 05-25-2013, 12:49 PM   #19
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I would definitely pay $75-$100 for a true plug n play switch that would allow complete control of the exhaust valves (i.e. closed, open and factory). Wireless/bluetooth would be an added bonus.
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Old 05-25-2013, 01:14 PM   #20
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you send me a detailed set of instructions with part #s and a few pics and I will paypal you $20
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Old 05-25-2013, 06:12 PM   #21
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I would expect to double my money on every transaction B4 ever considering it. Got to contribue to fixed costs (overhead) and indirect set up costs. After running a business for 25 years, my time and effort is priceless. Was never paid for this in the early years......you learn as you get older.
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Old 05-25-2013, 09:31 PM   #22
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Yep
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Old 05-25-2013, 10:02 PM   #23
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What's it worth?

Quote:
Originally Posted by ADM PERFORMANCE View Post
So here is the deal:

OEM HARNESS COST $23.95
RELAY AND SWITCH COST -$17.95
WIRING - $3.00
BOX - $1.00
PACKING MATERIAL - $1.00
LABOR TO BUILD IT - $20

Then we must make a profit.

Does not look like we can build it with standard mark up and come close to $50

Guess we will keep doing them in house only.

OR

We sell instructions on how to do it for - $20 and you have to source all the parts.
No dog in this hunt but at the risk of offending OP $100.00 seems very reasonable for a plug & play solution,especially coming from such a reputable vendor with a stellar 'customer support' reputation. If you can afford the ride-just sayin'. Kit will be 'copied' and whored out soon enough anyway. Just my .02 which what I understand now costs us .05 to produce,lol.
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Old 05-26-2013, 05:32 AM   #24
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not saying I won't pay $100. If Andy will collect the parts and his knowledge, I will pay $100 for sure. There is nothing that makes me happier than paying for quality parts that fit well and work as advertised. His air intake system and scoop make others look second rate. I am not trying to cheat anyone out of their design or hard work. After reading the parts list, I see this is not just a relay and a few connectors. As a business owner, I totally understand. If this procedure/solution was a simple one, someone would have chimed in with a scematic by now. Out of respect for Andy, I would not "whore out" the directions or parts list on this forum if he decides to make this happen for me. Hell, I wish I lived closer than 1200 miles away from his shop so I could drop the car off and he could rig it for me.
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Old 05-27-2013, 04:33 PM   #25
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I'd give anything to have a PnP setup to open and close the valves whenever I wanted; Idle and driving. It's the only thing holding me back from getting headers. My other half refuses to let me do it unless I can have cutout style functionality :( for volume purposes.
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