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Old 10-09-2013, 08:33 PM   #376
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Nice run. Imagine what you can do with good brakes ;-)
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Old 10-10-2013, 08:09 PM   #377
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This is a good photo showing the rotor surface after a couple of hard days at the track. The CTS=V caliper has that wonderful golden road course patina, but the rotor looks as though it was just resurfaced.

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Old 10-11-2013, 05:24 PM   #378
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Megatron, what rotors did you have - rb slotted?

Went in to my mechanic today and found the front slotted RB rotors were warped as hell. That was from a total of two track days, one with the RB pads I mentioned earlier, and the other with the Hawk DTC-30 pads. He had to machine them down about 20 thousandths. I don't know enough about this to know how rotors get warped that quickly, but am guessing it has something to do with wrong pads overheating.

FYI the backing material to the Hawk pads was charred and crispy, so they definitely got very hot.

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DBA 4000 & OEM

I will have to take a look at the Hawk pads when i remove them.
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Old 10-13-2013, 08:10 AM   #379
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How about that

Full day at VIR on OEM pads, RB fronts and OEM rears and everything feels fine.

First time doing passing anywhere on the track with a point-by. Kinda different getting passed in a corner (not on this video).

http://youtu.be/439MnubpBjA
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Old 10-13-2013, 09:55 AM   #380
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Nice video, good hear you have no problems with the brake setup you have especially considering the power you make and speeds you were carrying.
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Old 10-13-2013, 02:38 PM   #381
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Nice video, good hear you have no problems with the brake setup you have especially considering the power you make and speeds you were carrying.
Can't believe the OEM pads did better than the Hawk DTC-30s. Ah well. Live and learn

I was a little worried in the big braking zones at the end of the straights and started braking earlier than I would normally have (using OEM pads) earlier this year.

Looking forward to getting the Cobalt Friction pads on and trying the same track in a few weeks.

Found out yesterday that VIR is undergoing renovations from December to March. They are (finally) paving the paddock. But they are also repaving the full course including widening some corners (apparently some of the big-league racing folks have been on them about this). Gonna have to re-learn the whole track next spring.
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Old 10-13-2013, 07:48 PM   #382
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Are they capping off the renovations with a new oak tree?
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Old 10-13-2013, 09:31 PM   #383
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Can't believe the OEM pads did better than the Hawk DTC-30s. Ah well. Live and learn
There is some guy that has been saying the OEM brake pads for the SS and CTS-V are pretty good, but I can't remeber his name
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Old 10-14-2013, 05:01 AM   #384
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Are they capping off the renovations with a new oak tree?
Good question. I doubt it. That corner is all screwed up now. Flag station that used to be inside the corner right by the tree is gone, with a new flag station OUTSIDE the corner, most of the way through. So instead of being able to keep an eye on the tree to know where the inside apex is and see the flag workers at the same time, now you have no visual anchor for the corner AND in the middle of the turn while you are getting everything lined up the flag station appears on the wrong side of the track. I dunno, maybe I'll get used to it. But since they took the flag station out of the inside corner I doubt they'll put a tree in there...
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Old 10-23-2013, 06:55 PM   #385
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http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=324643

for those that are following this thread and are partial to 6 pot calipers
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Old 10-28-2013, 12:20 PM   #386
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Damn it I think the rotors are starting to warp again.

Am at VIR for a day and this is after 2nd run out. Starting to show signs of uneven streaking, which I think it warping.

This is while using the Cobalt Friction XR2/XR4 setup.

No major shudder yet but I thought I felt something odd this last run. Sure hope I am wrong.
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Old 10-28-2013, 03:27 PM   #387
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Have you done brake ducts yet? Stock 4-pistons?
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Old 10-28-2013, 08:01 PM   #388
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Have you done brake ducts yet? Stock 4-pistons?
OEM 4-piston calipers.

Brake ducts are on my list for a winter upgrade.

Did a few more runs and the streaking is a little worse but not much. Did not get any major sort of pulsing on braking, so maybe nothing is warped. Dunno. I might see if I can check for warping with a straight edge.

I am wondering if it might actually be uneven pad deposit from ABS kicking in. Hot pads + momentary lockup with ABS = maybe?
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Old 10-29-2013, 02:21 AM   #389
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Are you feeling the ABS kicking in a lot? If so you'll need to modulate your brake pedal more to avoid it. Although I think the issue is likely heat. Definitely do the ducts. If that doesn't help then you're probably at the limits of what the stock size rotor/pad can do. I'm surprised you haven't cooked your seals yet with the pad pics you posted.
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Old 10-29-2013, 05:55 AM   #390
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Are you feeling the ABS kicking in a lot? If so you'll need to modulate your brake pedal more to avoid it. Although I think the issue is likely heat. Definitely do the ducts. If that doesn't help then you're probably at the limits of what the stock size rotor/pad can do. I'm surprised you haven't cooked your seals yet with the pad pics you posted.
ABS is not kicking in a lot, no. I think I am pretty good at modulating the brakes, but occasionally I think I do feel it.

Last time I swapped the pads I felt around the pistons and it didn't feel as though anything was cracked or ripped. How can you tell if the seals are cooked?

Thanks man

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Old 10-29-2013, 07:17 AM   #391
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The bellows on the seal will look like it just came off a BBQ.

Go to RB Racing's web site and look at their replacement seals they have a picture.

You maybe have two solutions to your problem. Either upgrade to better brakes ie. 6 piston Brembo (CTS-V/ZL1) swap, wait for what RB has coming or rebuild your calipers with their pistons that will keep things cooler.

There is a guy on here selling a Yellow CTS-V set up at a fair price.

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Old 10-29-2013, 08:56 AM   #392
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ABS is not kicking in a lot, no. I think I am pretty good at modulating the brakes, but occasionally I think I do feel it.

Last time I swapped the pads I felt around the pistons and it didn't feel as though anything was cracked or ripped. How can you tell if the seals are cooked?

Thanks man

Pete
They'll looked dried out, crusty, with some cracking; kinda like weatherstripping on a 60's car that hasn't been replaced. You can have weeping fluid and soft brakes if they get real bad. I got the CTSV setup, ZL1 rotors, lines, and pads for about 1350 plus coating costs if you are willing to put in some part number searching and piece it together yourself. The RB calipers will be a good option but I like the multitude of pad options present with an OEM caliper setup. I don't like proprietary sized anything when it comes to consumables. RB has the upgraded stainless pistons/seals for the CTSV's as well if you ever manage to cook them. I'll be putting in my own brake ducts next week.

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Old 10-29-2013, 12:33 PM   #393
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Asked Andie from Cobalt Friction about the pics. His comment: This is completely fine. The RB rotors are a harder alloy material than the OEM rotors and as a result pad deposit variances are more visible. In his words, this actually looks "very good". Important point of learning for me, that pad deposits look different depending on the rotor materials. Whew!
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Old 10-29-2013, 04:16 PM   #394
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They will look like this....

Name:  IMAG0380.jpg
Views: 223
Size:  92.2 KB

See on the back side it looks all crusty, cracked and crumbled? This is a worst case scenario as the dust boot has completely come apart and separated. Yea, I am hard on brakes and this was when I rebuilt the pots in the early part of the year with the RB kit. The bad news, they are leaking now and I have to figure out why. I suspect that the RB kit did not stand up to the heat either.

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Old 10-31-2013, 10:11 AM   #395
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T, what is your pad and rotor setup? Do you have brake ducts?
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Old 11-01-2013, 10:40 AM   #396
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They will look like this....

Attachment 570169

See on the back side it looks all crusty, cracked and crumbled? This is a worst case scenario as the dust boot has completely come apart and separated. Yea, I am hard on brakes and this was when I rebuilt the pots in the early part of the year with the RB kit. The bad news, they are leaking now and I have to figure out why. I suspect that the RB kit did not stand up to the heat either.

T.
While the RacingBrake pistons and seals are a step up. They still have their heat limit and heat cycle limit. The outer boot or seal is just for dust and is exposed. If the inner oil seal is good then you wouldn't have a problem with seapage. I like the improvement I got from the RacingBrake pistons on the oem calipers. If you ever see the RB caliper, both oil seal and dust boot are inside the piston housing, keeps some of the heat off and the exposure way down.

I Do not think you can have a dust boot last long if you are pushing it and driving in heat.
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Old 11-07-2013, 10:47 PM   #397
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Update for some more new products coming from RacingBrake...they are making a few new pads. Hope to be more aggressive and a higher heat range
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Old 11-15-2013, 11:19 AM   #398
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They will look like this....
See on the back side it looks all crusty, cracked and crumbled? This is a worst case scenario as the dust boot has completely come apart and separated. Yea, I am hard on brakes and this was when I rebuilt the pots in the early part of the year with the RB kit. The bad news, they are leaking now and I have to figure out why. I suspect that the RB kit did not stand up to the heat either.

T.
Didn't take the pistons out, but took a pic while swapping brake pads. Looks like the boot is crisped on the top one, right?

What all is involved in swapping them out? Can it be done without taking piston out, etc?

Thanks man
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Old 11-15-2013, 01:06 PM   #399
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The pistons just snap out with a pock or screwdriver my self personally though if I was doing boots I would just do a total rebuild.

It's the boot and a seal that amounts to basically an o ring.

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Old 11-15-2013, 02:31 PM   #400
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SSSoon,

That actually does not look too bad. If it is not leaking and it is only the one dust boot I would not rebuild it yet.

You can actually get just the dust boots from Chevy for $60 retail or $40 if your parts guy likes you, mine does. That is for both sides.

OR you can order the whole kit from RockAuto for $5.35 a side plus shipping. Part# 15312.

Name:  BrakeKit.JPG
Views: 117
Size:  50.4 KB

This is cheaper than what Chevy has them listed for but you have to wait for them to show up at your door.

T.
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Track fix.
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