Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums - Camaro5.com
 
Circle-D
Go Back   Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums - Camaro5.com > Technical Camaro Topics > Suspension / Brakes / Chassis


Reply
 
Thread Tools
Old 06-23-2013, 02:55 AM   #273
Avalnch

 
Avalnch's Avatar
 
Drives: Rally Yellow Camaro+Avalanche
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Vancouver
Posts: 1,028
Quote:
Originally Posted by Doc View Post
Yes they are directional; they come in a set (front or rear) and there's a left and right side. They must be mounted with the slots curving forward as in this pic:

Attachment 526392

this is the front passenger side.
It is not the slots that I'm inquiring about, it's the vent vanes (in between the rotor faces) that I'm trying to determine if they are directional left-to-right.
__________________
Vengeance Kaotik Cam, C.A.I., ARH LT, Pypes Cat Back, ZL1 Shifter, Quantum Brake Ducts, JDP Tow Hook
Scorch Yellow Trim Kit, Shark Fin, AAC DRLs+ABLs+SMDs, ZTA Rear Spoiler, R.Y. 1LE Splitter
Pfadt coilovers, camber plates, trailing arms, Pegasus Solid Subframe & Hendrix offset differential bushings.
Pedders ZL1 barz, radius arm & steering rack bushings. BMR adjustable toe-rods.
Hotchkis Max Chassis Brace
1LE 3.91 gearzzz. Drive Shaft Shop Road Race Axle Upgrade. TurnOne power steering pump.
447 HP @ 6180 RPM / 418 TQ @ 5100 RPM
Avalnch is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-23-2013, 02:57 AM   #274
Doc
Dances With Mustangs
 
Doc's Avatar
 
Drives: 2010 1SS/RS MT
Join Date: May 2009
Location: USA
Posts: 3,606
Quote:
Originally Posted by Avalnch View Post
It is not the slots that I'm inquiring about, it's the vent vanes (in between the rotor faces) that I'm trying to determine if they are directional left-to-right.
Yes they are which is why you get a left and right rotor for each set. The slots are the clue as to which direction they should be facing when you install the rotors.
__________________

Blue Angel is here!!
1SS/RS LS3 M6 IBM
Doc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-23-2013, 03:37 AM   #275
ZL1-V

 
ZL1-V's Avatar
 
Drives: 2013 Camaro ZL1
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Southern California
Posts: 2,045
Quote:
Originally Posted by Avalnch View Post
It is not the slots that I'm inquiring about, it's the vent vanes (in between the rotor faces) that I'm trying to determine if they are directional left-to-right.
Tired of this game, you already knew the answer!

http://www.racingbrake.com/v/main/rotor_vane_design.asp
ZL1-V is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-23-2013, 10:13 AM   #276
madmaxx18
 
madmaxx18's Avatar
 
Drives: 07_tundra/08_zo6
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Wichita falls, tx
Posts: 721
Tired of this disrespect among members

Just answer his question in a respectful manner please!!!
madmaxx18 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-23-2013, 10:43 AM   #277
The Stig
knows 2 facts about ducks
 
The Stig's Avatar
 
Drives: ...and they're both wrong
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: The HMS Invincible
Posts: 26,280
Quote:
Originally Posted by madmaxx18 View Post
Tired of this disrespect among members

Just answer his question in a respectful manner please!!!
Were Doc's and SPCBA's answers not respectful?
__________________
Click to view my build thread
The Stig is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-23-2013, 11:36 AM   #278
SPCBA


 
Drives: pleather and Chiclets
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: a line somwhere
Posts: 4,091
Quote:
Originally Posted by Avalnch View Post
It is not the slots that I'm inquiring about, it's the vent vanes (in between the rotor faces) that I'm trying to determine if they are directional left-to-right.
yes it is directional through and through. The veins are a patent of racingbrake and Mr Linn.
__________________
SPCBA is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-23-2013, 11:36 AM   #279
SPCBA


 
Drives: pleather and Chiclets
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: a line somwhere
Posts: 4,091
Quote:
Originally Posted by madmaxx18 View Post
Tired of this disrespect among members

Just answer his question in a respectful manner please!!!
confused
__________________
SPCBA is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-23-2013, 11:56 AM   #280
madmaxx18
 
madmaxx18's Avatar
 
Drives: 07_tundra/08_zo6
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Wichita falls, tx
Posts: 721
In regards to post #275s comments
madmaxx18 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-23-2013, 01:34 PM   #281
ZL1-V

 
ZL1-V's Avatar
 
Drives: 2013 Camaro ZL1
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Southern California
Posts: 2,045
Madmaxx18,

How was I showing disrespect? Avalnch has said nothing but you have? He was given the answer to his question by other members on here that also use the rotors IIRC? I even provided a link to answer his question. He has posted in other related brake posts so he's familiar with them. Not trying to be an Adam Henry but the search function on this site has a ton of information. The other fact is going to their site would have given him the exact information he requested. The same info I linked on the thread.
ZL1-V is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-26-2013, 09:48 AM   #282
jeremywes
 
jeremywes's Avatar
 
Drives: 2012 Camaro SS
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 506
I do agree more people should try the search function!
jeremywes is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-27-2013, 05:35 PM   #283
SSSoon

 
SSSoon's Avatar
 
Drives: RY 2011 2SS A6
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Virginia
Posts: 987
Hey guys, need some help here. Can't figure out what is going on.

Bought a set of open slot front rotors from RB, plus a pair of their XT910 "light duty" track pads (in between a track pad and a street pad). Figured this would be an upgrade from OEM.

A month ago I had put in all new Castrol SRF. So when the rotors and pads came last week we put them on (did not open the lines). I went out for a drive and found there wasn't much bite to the pad. Went somewhere and bedded them in (8 runs from 60 down to 20, hard braking) but still found not much bite. Took the car to VIR and did 8 great runs, 20-25 minutes each, including major braking from 140 down to 50 on the back stretch.

Here's the problem: braking was worse than with OEM pads. I was pushing on the brake pedal with all my might and never once could I get the tires to lock up (used to be able to do that much easier with OEM pads). I even think the braking distance was longer than OEM, though hard to say. The pads just didn't seem to "bite" or "grab" at any point. For sure the pucker factor is high when you are standing on the brakes and hurtling towards the curve hoping they slow you down enough. The braking seemed much slower than OEM.

Here is the other strange thing - the slots are filled with brake material. There's nowhere for the off-gasses to go because the slots are plugged. Has anyone had this happen before with XT910s?

I called RB and they were very friendly and they think maybe the XT910 is not enough to haul down the Camaro. Dunno. I have difficulty thinking that their middle of the line pad is actually worse than the OEM Camaro pads.

Thoughts?

Thanks guys

Pete

PS still had a blast at VIR, so this didn't spoil anything. Absolutely SMOKED a bunch of Corvettes in my run group (yellow). Moving up to blue next year. I love my car. Bent a rim on some curbing, but oh well. Will fix.
Attached Images
  
__________________

Dry sump LS7, cage, JPSS suspension, Wilwood brakes, fire suppression, ARH 3" headers/exhaust, Z/28 DSSV coilovers, Kirkey seats, TeamTech 6-point harnesses, 19" Forgeline GA3R, 325/30R19 Re11 tires, oil cooler, monster JPSS splitter/wickerbill, CAI, brake ducts.
SSSoon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-27-2013, 05:50 PM   #284
JusticePete
 
JusticePete's Avatar
 
Drives: Camaro Justice
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Virginia
Posts: 17,601
Quote:
Originally Posted by SSSoon View Post
Hey guys, need some help here. Can't figure out what is going on.

Bought a set of open slot front rotors from RB, plus a pair of their XT910 "light duty" track pads (in between a track pad and a street pad). Figured this would be an upgrade from OEM.

A month ago I had put in all new Castrol SRF. So when the rotors and pads came last week we put them on (did not open the lines). I went out for a drive and found there wasn't much bite to the pad. Went somewhere and bedded them in (8 runs from 60 down to 20, hard braking) but still found not much bite. Took the car to VIR and did 8 great runs, 20-25 minutes each, including major braking from 140 down to 50 on the back stretch.

Here's the problem: braking was worse than with OEM pads. I was pushing on the brake pedal with all my might and never once could I get the tires to lock up (used to be able to do that much easier with OEM pads). I even think the braking distance was longer than OEM, though hard to say. The pads just didn't seem to "bite" or "grab" at any point. For sure the pucker factor is high when you are standing on the brakes and hurtling towards the curve hoping they slow you down enough. The braking seemed much slower than OEM.

Here is the other strange thing - the slots are filled with brake material. There's nowhere for the off-gasses to go because the slots are plugged. Has anyone had this happen before with XT910s?

I called RB and they were very friendly and they think maybe the XT910 is not enough to haul down the Camaro. Dunno. I have difficulty thinking that their middle of the line pad is actually worse than the OEM Camaro pads.

Thoughts?

Thanks guys

Pete

PS still had a blast at VIR, so this didn't spoil anything. Absolutely SMOKED a bunch of Corvettes in my run group (yellow). Moving up to blue next year. I love my car. Bent a rim on some curbing, but oh well. Will fix.
Pete,

Every brake pad company I've talked to underestimates how fast a 5th generation Camaro can be driven. That leads them to recommend pads that are inadequate for the application. That your slots are clogged and your braking was woeful makes it clear those pads are not up to the task. You need a pad that will operate at a minimum up to 1500 degrees. A 2000 degree max temp is my preference. Next time you talk to Racing Brake, you want a pad in that temperature range. My personal preference are the custom pads we have made at Cobalt friction.
JusticePete is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-27-2013, 05:59 PM   #285
SSSoon

 
SSSoon's Avatar
 
Drives: RY 2011 2SS A6
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Virginia
Posts: 987
Quote:
Originally Posted by JusticePete View Post
Pete,

Every brake pad company I've talked to underestimates how fast a 5th generation Camaro can be driven. That leads them to recommend pads that are inadequate for the application. That your slots are clogged and your braking was woeful makes it clear those pads are not up to the task. You need a pad that will operate at a minimum up to 1500 degrees. A 2000 degree max temp is my preference. Next time you talk to Racing Brake, you want a pad in that temperature range. My personal preference are the custom pads we have made at Cobalt friction.
Thanks for the ideas. I am a lazy SOB and don't like swapping pads and re-bedding them so am trying to find something that would work okay on the street. RB says their higher end pads are not for street use. Should I assume your awesome Cobalt pads are not for street use either?

If the OEM Chevy pads worked better than these RB ones I wonder if they would be fine...
__________________

Dry sump LS7, cage, JPSS suspension, Wilwood brakes, fire suppression, ARH 3" headers/exhaust, Z/28 DSSV coilovers, Kirkey seats, TeamTech 6-point harnesses, 19" Forgeline GA3R, 325/30R19 Re11 tires, oil cooler, monster JPSS splitter/wickerbill, CAI, brake ducts.
SSSoon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-27-2013, 06:01 PM   #286
JusticePete
 
JusticePete's Avatar
 
Drives: Camaro Justice
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Virginia
Posts: 17,601
Quote:
Originally Posted by SSSoon View Post
Thanks for the ideas. I am a lazy SOB and don't like swapping pads and re-bedding them so am trying to find something that would work okay on the street. RB says their higher end pads are not for street use. Should I assume your awesome Cobalt pads are not for street use either?

If the OEM Chevy pads worked better than these RB ones I wonder if they would be fine...
Do you drive your car in the snow?
JusticePete is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-27-2013, 06:32 PM   #287
SSSoon

 
SSSoon's Avatar
 
Drives: RY 2011 2SS A6
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Virginia
Posts: 987
Quote:
Originally Posted by JusticePete View Post
Do you drive your car in the snow?
I have. It's Virginia, so snows maybe twice a year.

I can deal with poor performance in snow. Heck, I'm not about to do any emergency braking under those circumstances anyways.

I keep wondering if high-temp track pads are not possible on the street or just not optimal.
__________________

Dry sump LS7, cage, JPSS suspension, Wilwood brakes, fire suppression, ARH 3" headers/exhaust, Z/28 DSSV coilovers, Kirkey seats, TeamTech 6-point harnesses, 19" Forgeline GA3R, 325/30R19 Re11 tires, oil cooler, monster JPSS splitter/wickerbill, CAI, brake ducts.
SSSoon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-27-2013, 06:39 PM   #288
The Stig
knows 2 facts about ducks
 
The Stig's Avatar
 
Drives: ...and they're both wrong
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: The HMS Invincible
Posts: 26,280
Quote:
Originally Posted by SSSoon View Post
I have. It's Virginia, so snows maybe twice a year.

I can deal with poor performance in snow. Heck, I'm not about to do any emergency braking under those circumstances anyways.

I keep wondering if high-temp track pads are not possible on the street or just not optimal.
No optimal - they will squeal like a stuck pig
__________________
Click to view my build thread
The Stig is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-27-2013, 07:10 PM   #289
JusticePete
 
JusticePete's Avatar
 
Drives: Camaro Justice
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Virginia
Posts: 17,601
Quote:
Originally Posted by SSSoon View Post
I have. It's Virginia, so snows maybe twice a year.

I can deal with poor performance in snow. Heck, I'm not about to do any emergency braking under those circumstances anyways.

I keep wondering if high-temp track pads are not possible on the street or just not optimal.
Cobalt friction pads are binderless. That means that if you get them soaking wet and there is a hard freeze, the pad will crumble. Dead cold Cobalt friction pads have 85% of their stopping power which is far more stopping power than most pads have hot. The pads are filthy, they sound like real man's brakes, I have daily driven them for years. If you want to use something like Hawk, DTC60's in the front and DTC50's in the rear, they are not affected by freezing cold. They stop well and sound like real man brakes. They're very dirty, but not as dirty as the Cobalt friction pads.

Over the years, I've set up many of my personal cars for optimal performance on a road course just like the Pedders USA Camaro. The brakes are filthy, dirty, and loud. The alignment eats tires. And I always say after the track testing, "I'll dial her back." Guess what? I never dial them back because when I dial them back, they don't feel perfect anymore. I finally realized I'm never going to dial them back. Brakes are no different. Once you drive with really good track pads, nothing else will do.

Quote:
Originally Posted by The Stig View Post
No optimal - they will squeal like a stuck pig
Big dogs bark. Do you want to run with the big dogs? Learn to love the sound of MAN brakes.
JusticePete is offline   Reply With Quote
 
Reply

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 02:39 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.9 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2016, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.