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Cosmetic Maintenance: Washing, Waxing, Detailing, Bodywork, Protection Anything related to keeping your Camaro clean and in good cosmetic condition.

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Old 05-12-2013, 12:06 AM   #1
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After clay ?

Ok you OCDtailers I am almost done with claying my Camaro. I can't believe all the imperfections you can find when you take the time to decontaminate and scrutinize every square inch of your car

I took some advise and used optimum no rinse and diluted it for the clay lube and I was happy with it to a point my previous decon I used Adams detail spray. Adams was by far a better clay lube as I used considerably more onr and it wasn't as slippery. Also I noted that some of the clay seemed to stick to my clear coat and I took a few patient attempts to remove the residue with clay and waterless wash wiping with mf towels.

Now what do I do. the surface is clean its almost scary how clean it is. Do I wash it prior to glazing and lsp(patriot wax) or to I wipe it with some diluted apc then wash? Or do I just give it a once over with detail spray and start with the glazing?

I wish I had purchased my rupes and a mild polish as my imperfections are mild but I still feel my paint is acceptable as the car is as new with 1700 miles.

Your advise, as always is welcome.

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Old 05-12-2013, 12:12 AM   #2
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Yes, I believe you should always wash after claying. Then apply glaze and then the wax. Best of luck! PM me for questions!
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Old 05-12-2013, 09:49 AM   #3
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Depends on your clay procedure. Did you wipe off the residue as you went, or just let it dry on the car?

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Old 05-12-2013, 10:24 AM   #4
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Different options here.
I usually wash the car afterwards. Dry the proceed to waxin or applying a glaze.
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Old 05-12-2013, 10:38 AM   #5
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Depends on your clay procedure. Did you wipe off the residue as you went, or just let it dry on the car?

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I did dry it as I went but it seems like there is still a residue. Would using a 50/50 apc and distilled water wipe down be ok ? I'm going for as perfect as I can get it without machine polishing.
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Old 05-12-2013, 10:59 AM   #6
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I did dry it as I went but it seems like there is still a residue. Would using a 50/50 apc and distilled water wipe down be ok ? I'm going for as perfect as I can get it without machine polishing.
Waterless wash would be my opinion. Otherwise, dilute your APC way more. 1:8 or so. You're basically just wiping off dried detail spray.

When you clay, if you wipe each section with a MF towel, you won't need to do any other steps.

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Old 05-12-2013, 11:07 AM   #7
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Waterless wash would be my opinion. Otherwise, dilute your APC way more. 1:8 or so. You're basically just wiping off dried detail spray.

When you clay, if you wipe each section with a MF towel, you won't need to do any other steps.

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Thank you sir. I'm probably over killing it but as I glance at the finish from all angles it appears that some of the clay was left on the paint I know it doesn't seem possible and I wish I had a good camera to show you. So I thought I would soak a zaino blond in a apc solution and go over the car one more time.
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Old 05-12-2013, 12:40 PM   #8
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post pics when your fin !
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Old 05-12-2013, 01:33 PM   #9
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post pics when your fin !
I shall in a few days need some more time. I just put in a few hours. Glass, vrt tires and exterior trim and waterless washed the car.
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Old 05-12-2013, 02:11 PM   #10
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I wouldn't rewash. If anything take your ONR that you used as your clay lube and use it like a quick detailer.
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Old 05-12-2013, 02:55 PM   #11
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I'm going to go against the grain here and recommend washing again, with Blue Dawn as a final confirmation that everything is off your surface then blow dry with the electric leaf lower. If no polishing is needed, then right to seal & Wax.

The main reason I would wash with Dawn is because you mentioned you had some issues with the clay sticking. I would just want to make sure everything is off my surface before applying your LSP.

Again, that's just me.
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Old 05-12-2013, 04:43 PM   #12
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I wash again also. I look at it this way: if I wash and didn't really need to, I wasted an hour or so. If I don't wash and did need to, I set myself up for hours more fixing what I did wrong.
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Old 05-13-2013, 08:05 AM   #13
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I wash again also. I look at it this way: if I wash and didn't really need to, I wasted an hour or so. If I don't wash and did need to, I set myself up for hours more fixing what I did wrong.
Exactly!
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Old 05-13-2013, 12:45 PM   #14
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Im going to wash it again. Then I sware I'm going to break out the Patriot and go to town.
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Old 05-13-2013, 12:54 PM   #15
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Quote:
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Different options here.
I usually wash the car afterwards. Dry the proceed to waxin or applying a glaze.


Quote:
Originally Posted by AmericanMuscleCars View Post
Yes, I believe you should always wash after claying. Then apply glaze and then the wax. Best of luck! PM me for questions!
I've been looking into claying and waxing my car recently and have looked up a few videos and tutorials on the best way to go about it. However in the few that I have watched, neither of them mentioned the step of "glazing" that a few of you have mentioned in this thread. I'm just curious what this step entails and what products are used for it. Thanks guys in advance, I'm a noob :p
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Old 05-13-2013, 01:17 PM   #16
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If Using Adams Polishes, the process after polishing is Sealant, Glaze, and Wax. Most all others is Glaze, Seal and wax.

Glazing is using a product that will "fill in" some of the minor imperfections (small scratches and swirls) on your clear coat and "hides" them and the Sealant and Wax keeps them protected.

Hope that helps.
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Old 05-13-2013, 02:56 PM   #17
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If Using Adams Polishes, the process after polishing is Sealant, Glaze, and Wax. Most all others is Glaze, Seal and wax.

Glazing is using a product that will "fill in" some of the minor imperfections (small scratches and swirls) on your clear coat and "hides" them and the Sealant and Wax keeps them protected.

Hope that helps.
Still have yet to figure out how Adam's thinks their glaze is going to penetrate the sealant to fill anything.

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Old 05-13-2013, 04:09 PM   #18
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Didn't say I knew that; only the recommended process. I think I'm going to try the Glaze, Seal, Wax next time I need wax to see if it makes a difference.
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Old 05-13-2013, 04:34 PM   #19
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Didn't say I knew that; only the recommended process. I think I'm going to try the Glaze, Seal, Wax next time I need wax to see if it makes a difference.
No I wasn't implying you did. I'm just commenting on their recommendation. Doesn't make a bit of sense to me, never has.

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Old 05-13-2013, 06:50 PM   #20
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Why would one want to use a glaze after polishing?

I was under the impression that glaze was to be used to hide minor imperfections that only polishing could remove..?
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Old 05-13-2013, 06:57 PM   #21
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Why would one want to use a glaze after polishing?

I was under the impression that glaze was to be used to hide minor imperfections that only polishing could remove..?
It's a preference. It does fill minor imperfections (which you ultimately would rather remove altogether) but if you didn't want to remove more clear coat, and add's more of a gloss to the paint. It's a technique though by all means not required.
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Old 05-13-2013, 11:55 PM   #22
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No I wasn't implying you did. I'm just commenting on their recommendation. Doesn't make a bit of sense to me, never has.

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I agree with you. How can glaze impact/fill and adhear to a properly paint sealed car makes no sense to me.

I have never used a sealant on my paint nor do intend to until my paint is near perfect. Hence the glaze to fill in my minor imperfections prior to waxing my Z.

I will probably opticoat once I get this thing corrected but I am not ready to tackle that now....... I have been checking out the rupes polishers as of late however.
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Old 05-13-2013, 11:56 PM   #23
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Why would one want to use a glaze after polishing?

I was under the impression that glaze was to be used to hide minor imperfections that only polishing could remove..?
I look at it like this. Are you 100% sure you got every single bit of every swirl on your car? Glazing should help hide the bits you may have missed. I haven't personally used glaze on my car but I can certainly understand the theory behind it. As with many parts of detailing, it's preference. It certainly won't hurt anything besides your wallet and waste a little bit of time.
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Old 05-14-2013, 06:57 AM   #24
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I agree with you. How can glaze impact/fill and adhear to a properly paint sealed car makes no sense to me.

I have never used a sealant on my paint nor do intend to until my paint is near perfect. Hence the glaze to fill in my minor imperfections prior to waxing my Z.

I will probably opticoat once I get this thing corrected but I am not ready to tackle that now....... I have been checking out the rupes polishers as of late however.
You can still use sealants before your paint is perfect as not all sealants/waxes are as permanent as OptiCoat. Most are like waxes and you can expect 2-6 months of protection (based on what type of environment your car sees, daily driver, parked inside/outside, etc...)
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Old 05-14-2013, 10:09 AM   #25
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I agree with you. How can glaze impact/fill and adhear to a properly paint sealed car makes no sense to me.

I have never used a sealant on my paint nor do intend to until my paint is near perfect. Hence the glaze to fill in my minor imperfections prior to waxing my Z.

I will probably opticoat once I get this thing corrected but I am not ready to tackle that now....... I have been checking out the rupes polishers as of late however.
Do you have another polisher? If you don't, I wouldn't recommend the rupes as the only polisher to own. The reason is that the throw is huge! It's hard, but not impossible, to use in cramped areas where you need something with a small throw and small pad.

If you already own one of the basic trio: PC, GG, or Megs, then the rupes is a perfect upgrade
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