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Old 06-27-2013, 09:48 AM   #1
Zl1vite
 
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Roto-fab install -- grr, don't make this mistake

I failed to tighten the 90 degree elbow and it
loosened allowing the breather canister to rub against the belt.
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Old 06-27-2013, 09:55 AM   #2
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no bueno
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Old 06-27-2013, 10:12 AM   #3
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That's a bummer...

I wrote in another thread how I spent a good 45 min fiddling with the intake elbow and 90 degree fitting in order to make sure the breather canister was clear of the pulley belt. Surprised this issue was completely ignored in the written and video instructions.
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Old 06-27-2013, 10:16 AM   #4
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I'm a bit concerned it sucked up plastic shavings.
When I would get off the gas to go to idle it would then rev up a couple times on its own.
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Old 06-27-2013, 10:25 AM   #5
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That sucks big time! I'll have to recheck mine to make sure it's still not rubbing.
Thanks a lot
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Old 06-27-2013, 10:30 AM   #6
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What's that part number I need one
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Old 06-27-2013, 10:52 AM   #7
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Going to the dealer today at lunch to get a new one. I'll post the part number.
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Old 06-27-2013, 01:06 PM   #8
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Just checked mine and mine is about 2" from the pulley. I think I know what happened to give you that problem. It sounds dumb but if You lined the elbow/"T" fitting up with the mark on the snout, that is probably why. When I installed mine I didn't like the fact that the valve, the one that you're replacing, wasn't centered in that 90 degree. So I just turned the fitting so that the vlve is centered. All you should have to do when you install the new one is turn the fitting towards the actual air filter and it should pull the valve away from that pulley. Mine doesn't sit perfectly straight, just a little tilted, but there is no way it should ever hit the pulley. Hope this helps and works for you guys.
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Old 06-27-2013, 01:27 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zl1vite View Post
I'm a bit concerned it sucked up plastic shavings.
When I would get off the gas to go to idle it would then rev up a couple times on its own.
Maybe reving up is normal with the new intake?

Shavings should just burn up. You could look in your throttle body with a flash light and see if there as any evidence of a problem at the supercharger. BTW, if you do that let me know what your supercharger rotor lobes look like. I am having an issue with the dealer on that right now regarding metal to metal wear.
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Old 06-27-2013, 01:46 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hercules View Post
Just checked mine and mine is about 2" from the pulley. I think I know what happened to give you that problem. It sounds dumb but if You lined the elbow/"T" fitting up with the mark on the snout, that is probably why. When I installed mine I didn't like the fact that the valve, the one that you're replacing, wasn't centered in that 90 degree. So I just turned the fitting so that the vlve is centered. All you should have to do when you install the new one is turn the fitting towards the actual air filter and it should pull the valve away from that pulley. Mine doesn't sit perfectly straight, just a little tilted, but there is no way it should ever hit the pulley. Hope this helps and works for you guys.
That's exactly what I discovered during my 45 minutes of fiddling. I turned the 90 degree fitting towards the air filter as far as it would go. My canister doesn't sit straight either. To make it straight would put it right up against the belt.

Here's how much space I have between the cannister and belt. It's about an inch and 3/4 clearance.
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Old 06-27-2013, 02:20 PM   #11
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Ok so the replacement part is $98.32 and is the hose assembly.
I'll post the part number, left in my truck.

They said 5 days to get it here so I may do a plastic weld instead.

I had tightened and aligned it to the hash mark. It was really tight but the 100 degree heat here had made it loose within 5 minutes.
I pulled the main elbow while hot and was able to screw in the 90 degree elbow like 3-4 more turns.

I'll take a picture thru the throttle body tonight so you can see the metal wear for previous poster.
Car has 1,100 miles.
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Old 06-27-2013, 04:30 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zl1vite View Post
I'm a bit concerned it sucked up plastic shavings.
When I would get off the gas to go to idle it would then rev up a couple times on its own.
I would have to say that the probable cause of it revving a couple of times is that when the pulley cut into the valve it then in turn created a massive vacuum leak. And the car was trying to figure out what was going on. Since the mass air flow wasn't seeing everything the car was confused. When you seal that valve, or get a new one, I would say the revving will stop. Unless you're doing it on purpose.
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Old 06-27-2013, 05:04 PM   #13
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I'd see if the ground off end would fit inside a piece of PVC or other tubing. If so, I'd silicone or RTV it inside the tubing and cap it off. It has to be repairable vs spending the $98 on a new one.
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Old 06-27-2013, 05:10 PM   #14
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Exactly what I was thinking. Put a can around the canister. Like a silicon tube or rubber hose.
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Old 06-27-2013, 05:14 PM   #15
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It might even fit inside a piece of copper tubing with an end cap soldered on. I'd take it to Home Depot and see what they have that might work.
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Old 06-27-2013, 05:24 PM   #16
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Where the canister taps in can we install a bit of hose to get it further out of the way? I haven't installed mine yet.
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Old 06-27-2013, 08:56 PM   #17
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Do you have a catch can ! You could install a straight fitting ?
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Old 06-27-2013, 09:26 PM   #18
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If any of you have a dual valve catch can what are you using to hook it to the CAI. My can is 3/8 and the "T" is 1/2. I have it hooked up with the wrong size hose and it doesn't look clean to me. I checked with Roto-Fab and they don't have the correct fittings. I don't want to get a barbed hose reducer. I'm afraid that it also won't look clean either. If you don't have the dual valve can then you guys wouldn't have this problem. Thanks in advance for any help.
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Old 06-27-2013, 10:58 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by avcbm View Post
What's that part number I need one
Been to the dealer; when i was doing my install. I didn't want to cut off the clamp to remove the canister incase i wanted to put everything back to factory specs. The dealer does not sell the canister alone as a stand alone component. YOu'd have to order the entire factory elbow assembly just to have that canister. If anyone knows that this isn't the case anymore please send me a PM. thanks
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Old 06-28-2013, 05:51 AM   #20
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You can tell from the parts diagram that it is part of the elbow assembly. I broke the top off of mine and had to glue it on with JB Weld.
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Old 06-28-2013, 08:31 AM   #21
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Just checked mine and seems I had a tiny flat spot developing.......... I just put the assembly under the hose and it pulls the tube away nicely.........thanx for that one
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Old 06-28-2013, 08:53 AM   #22
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OK, stupid question time.
Just what is this thing, what does it do, and how does it do it?
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Old 06-28-2013, 09:03 AM   #23
Tyler H
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I was thinking that may happen to someone at some point. When I did my install I made sure I had max clear! By the way is your belt ok or did it get damaged also? Just plain bad luck for you. Before you spend 100 dollars on a replacement I agree with the majority here and try and repair yours first.
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Old 06-28-2013, 10:18 AM   #24
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Belt looked fine. It may have a fine coat of plastic now...

The breather canister is basically just a moisture trap. PVC back to intake.
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Old 06-29-2013, 03:31 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hawk02 View Post
That's exactly what I discovered during my 45 minutes of fiddling. I turned the 90 degree fitting towards the air filter as far as it would go. My canister doesn't sit straight either. To make it straight would put it right up against the belt.

Here's how much space I have between the cannister and belt. It's about an inch and 3/4 clearance.
Just a question, why not run that vacuum tube around the front of the can instead of behind it to keep it snug and moving towards the belt?
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