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Camaro V6 LFX Engine, Exhaust, and Bolt-Ons For all LFX related parts

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Old 05-16-2013, 11:26 AM   #1
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Bad engine knock? V6

Hello guys, I'm new to this posting thing I would appreciate any input on this subject. I have a 2012 2LT ( yeah it's a v6 whateves )
I got a Volant cold air intake and flowmaster axle back exhaust for my birthday, something that I would not of chosen, but my wife tried to surprise me.
I really like the sound, no drone, always getting asked if I have a turbo charger? Why I dunno... Anyways, before I installed these parts I had a little engine knock, no matter what gas station I used, when using 87 octane. After installed these to mods, The engine knock is getting worse, again I tried many different gas stations, I notice if I put 93 in the tank there is no engine knock at all. I tired 89 octane there is engine knock but not that bad, but it's there.
If these mods have no effect of engine knock, ( I'm at the dealership getting an oil change while tying this, I asked 2 different service advisors.)
Why do I get really bad engine knock using 87 when the car calls for it, everyone here at the dealership is telling me NOT to put 92 octane, it will hurt my engine. But if I put 87 octane (again many different gas stations, many different times testing this) why is my engine knocking? It's really embarrassing at every traffic light to give it a little gas, sounds horrible. Oh, I also noticed that sometimes, at a traffic light, only when engine has been running for at least 20 minutes, my idol drops below 500 for a few minutes and starts to give like a pulley squeak sound. Every time I bring my car to the dealership for them to check it out, it does not make the sound or drop below 500 rpm.
Thanks in advance... Keith
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Old 05-16-2013, 11:29 AM   #2
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I hate to say this, but sounds like a timing chain issue
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Old 05-16-2013, 11:36 AM   #3
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First of all, 92 octane won't hurt your engine. Period.

Check all the fittings for the CAI. It sounds like you have a leak. Not sure why the octane of the gas makes a difference, but if you had enough real engine knock for you to hear, you would also have a CEL and it would probably go into reduced power mode.
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647 RWHP & 726 RWTQ @18.5 psi on 93 Octane (locked converter)
1/8 mile -- 7.158 @ 102.10 (20psi); old build
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Old 05-16-2013, 11:41 AM   #4
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Thank you for the response, as I said I'm here at the dealership getting an oil change, they said since I have 92 octane in it now they really can't test the issue, and for me to bring it back with 87 octane so they can test it correctly. I mentioned the timing chain comment to my service advisor and he says dont believe what I read on the Internet. ;-/
I don't believe these people here at the stealership for a second. ( I had the small leather part on my dash coming apart) they wanted to pull my windshield and replace the entire dash board) lol no I didn't let them, after reading a bunch of posts on here regarding the same thing I told my service advisor the it is a separate piece from the dash and gave him a part number, he looked at me like I had three heads.. I get many opinions before any actual work is done. Thanks!
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Old 05-16-2013, 11:42 AM   #5
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I hate to say this, but sounds like a timing chain issue
I am not sure this is the issue but this is common on our cars. look into this^
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Old 05-16-2013, 11:43 AM   #6
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The engine knock is extremely loud with 87 octane, I can hear it sometimes with windows closed.
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Old 05-16-2013, 11:44 AM   #7
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The engine knock is extremely loud with 87 octane, I can hear it sometimes with windows closed.
But just at idle, right?
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647 RWHP & 726 RWTQ @18.5 psi on 93 Octane (locked converter)
1/8 mile -- 7.158 @ 102.10 (20psi); old build
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Old 05-16-2013, 11:47 AM   #8
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Engine knock is the worst when I first start to go from complete stop, after I put it I second gear it goes away ( or maybe not go away, I just can't hear it cause of exhaust is pretty loud)
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Old 05-16-2013, 11:49 AM   #9
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The squeaking pulley thing sound is at a stop, SOMEtimes it will drop below 500rpm. Not all the time. I have been to the dealership at least 3 times for same problem and all I get is no problem found.
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Old 05-16-2013, 11:56 AM   #10
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I wouldn't think your moved the midpipes much installing the mufflers, but you should check that for rattle from the heads back. As for the idle issue, I still think that's either unmetered air of a vaccum leak. Both of those could be coming from lose fittings on the CAI.
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647 RWHP & 726 RWTQ @18.5 psi on 93 Octane (locked converter)
1/8 mile -- 7.158 @ 102.10 (20psi); old build
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Old 05-16-2013, 12:00 PM   #11
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I will check all connections later today, if they are all good, I'm going to install the factory air filter to see if it still is happening. I guess that's my next step.
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Old 05-16-2013, 12:01 PM   #12
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I wouldn't think your moved the midpipes much installing the mufflers, but you should check that for rattle from the heads back. As for the idle issue, I still think that's either unmetered air of a vaccum leak. Both of those could be coming from lose fittings on the CAI.
Oh and thank you!!
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Old 05-16-2013, 12:02 PM   #13
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NP. Hope it works out.
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647 RWHP & 726 RWTQ @18.5 psi on 93 Octane (locked converter)
1/8 mile -- 7.158 @ 102.10 (20psi); old build
Build Thread
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Old 05-16-2013, 12:07 PM   #14
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Oh, and I think since I started using 92 octane, my exhaust tips are filthy, black carbon I guess. Guess cause the engine is not fit to utilize 92 octane. But at least I'm not embarrassed at every traffic light. Should I stop using 92 octane, be embarrassed and let the thing blow? Lol????????
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Old 05-16-2013, 12:10 PM   #15
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92 Octane is fine. These things run pig rich so most of us have just gotten used to cleaning the tips often . If you end up finding some other issue (like a vaccum leak or lose pipes), then just go back to 87 and see if it runs okay.
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647 RWHP & 726 RWTQ @18.5 psi on 93 Octane (locked converter)
1/8 mile -- 7.158 @ 102.10 (20psi); old build
Build Thread
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Old 05-16-2013, 12:21 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GretchenGotGrowl View Post
First of all, 92 octane won't hurt your engine. Period.

Check all the fittings for the CAI. It sounds like you have a leak. Not sure why the octane of the gas makes a difference, but if you had enough real engine knock for you to hear, you would also have a CEL and it would probably go into reduced power mode.
THIS!

Higher octane will not hurt your car at all, so don't listen to that.

These V6s are extremely sensitive to knock, and so if what you are hearing is actually knock, then something is wrong. Its not like the old days when you could hear an engine knocking when lugging around or something like that. The sensors will pick up that knock long before you should be able to hear it.
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Old 05-16-2013, 12:27 PM   #17
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I will add from what Gretchen mentioned earlier...are you aware of the ticking noise from the high pressure fuel pump on these engines? From what I have read, it is not quite as noticeable on the 2012+ models as the 10s, and 11s, but it is still there I'm sure of it. You can easily hear it at idle...just pop the hood and check it out sometime while the car is running. This ticking sound increases once you raise the rpms past idle, but while driving you probably wouldn't be able to hear the HPFP.

Also the timing chains. They may not be as much of an issue on youe 2012 as earlier models, but your dealer is an idiot if nobody there in the service department knows of it issues with the timing chains in the LLT and other similar V6 engines.
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Old 05-17-2013, 04:54 PM   #18
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Running 92 won't hurt your engine. That's what I'm using from the time I bought it. The idling issue I did have and it turned out the vacuum hose on my catch can came loose. If you have a catch can check your hoses to make sure there tight.
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Old 05-18-2013, 11:35 PM   #19
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Cmon guys 3 bucks a fill up isnt asking much if you love your Camaro put good gas in it. And yes I drive 30k a year. (20 cents times 15 gallons) I dont run it empty in tank fuel pumps dont like fuel starvation
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Old 05-22-2013, 02:46 PM   #20
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I would say the dropping below 500rpms and the belt squeaking sound could be symptoms of a vacuum leak...
Have you tried spraying some carb cleaner/starting fluid around your vacuum fittings while the car is idling?? It will make the engine rev a bit higher than idle if you have a leak.
The belt squealing could be the alternator trying to keep up with the load from the sub speed idle and it is causing the belt to slip.
As for the knock, if a vacuum leak is the cause then the rest of the engine control system isn't running correctly either - causing the timing to be off and making pre/post cylinder fire detonation...
Just my .02 cents
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Old 05-22-2013, 03:02 PM   #21
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Have you tried spraying some carb cleaner/starting fluid around your vacuum fittings while the car is idling?? It will make the engine rev a bit higher than idle if you have a leak.
Use an unlit propane torch instead. It's a lot cleaner.

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Old 05-22-2013, 08:36 PM   #22
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Your Camaro should not ping period, except MAYBE momentarily under high load, low rpm situations. The engine has knock sensors to prevent this. It you can hear it knocking repeatedly something is wrong. Try clearing the spider webs out of your wallet and putting in 91/92/93 octane gas first.
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Old 07-27-2013, 12:15 PM   #23
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Your Camaro should not ping period, except MAYBE momentarily under high load, low rpm situations. The engine has knock sensors to prevent this. It you can hear it knocking repeatedly something is wrong. Try clearing the spider webs out of your wallet and putting in 91/92/93 octane gas first.
Well... I guess I did clean the spider webs out my pocket and traded that thing in for new 2SS/RS.... No more engine knock.. Problem solved.. Thanks all
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Old 01-26-2014, 10:21 AM   #24
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Well... I guess I did clean the spider webs out my pocket and traded that thing in for new 2SS/RS.... No more engine knock.. Problem solved.. Thanks all
That's one way to deal with it!
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