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Old 05-20-2013, 06:43 PM   #18
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If you have the 3.8" front pulley, it's like having a 3.25 front if you had direct drive (1:1) on the rear. 11psi is about right. Don't fall in to the trap of thinking you need a "blower" cam. If you're good with the manners and fuel eco, there's no reason to change it. I'm guessing you don't have any low power problems on the bottom end. Full boost available at anything over 2500 rpm kinda cures that That's enough cam that it must absolutely scream up top. Enjoy it and don't worry about a cam swap.
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Old 05-20-2013, 07:35 PM   #19
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OD Cog drive is worth 3.5 lbs of boost. Stock 3.8 Pulley with the Maggie in 6lbs of boost. 3.6 Pulley adds another 3lbs or so of boost. I run 12-12.5 lbs of boost, with Meth as safety.
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Old 05-20-2013, 08:06 PM   #20
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OD Cog drive is worth 3.5 lbs of boost. Stock 3.8 Pulley with the Maggie in 6lbs of boost. 3.6 Pulley adds another 3lbs or so of boost. I run 12-12.5 lbs of boost, with Meth as safety.
The O/D rears spin the blower roughly 17% faster than the 1:1 rears. At mild boost levels, the boost will increase around 17% with the O/D rear pulleys vs the 1:1 set. As boost goes up, that % increase goes up too. If you spin the blower faster, pushing more air through the same motor, boost (restriction in this case) will go up. Just because the boost goes up doesn't mean the power will go up at a similar increase. At very high boost levels, adding more boost does little more than heat the air.

That's where bigger cams, ported heads, better exhaust, and anything else that adds to the air flow through the motor helps make more power.
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Old 05-20-2013, 08:17 PM   #21
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The O/D rears spin the blower roughly 17% faster than the 1:1 rears. At mild boost levels, the boost will increase around 17% with the O/D rear pulleys vs the 1:1 set. As boost goes up, that % increase goes up too. If you spin the blower faster, pushing more air through the same motor, boost (restriction in this case) will go up. Just because the boost goes up doesn't mean the power will go up at a similar increase. At very high boost levels, adding more boost does little more than heat the air.

That's where bigger cams, ported heads, better exhaust, and anything else that adds to the air flow through the motor helps make more power.
And that's exactly what I did, adding my custom grind Comp Cam was one of the best mods I've done
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Old 05-20-2013, 08:58 PM   #22
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And that's exactly what I did, adding my custom grind Comp Cam was one of the best mods I've done
It's just bad a$$ed when you get it right. Nice sound, stock like MPG, and stupid power when it's all said and done. You guys are spoiled just rotten. Looks sweet, runs supercar fast, doesn't cost supercar money, and your wifes/significant others like it too
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Old 05-20-2013, 09:21 PM   #23
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It's just bad a$$ed when you get it right. Nice sound, stock like MPG, and stupid power when it's all said and done. You guys are spoiled just rotten. Looks sweet, runs supercar fast, doesn't cost supercar money, and your wifes/significant others like it too
Well, you almost nailed it! My wife HATES getting in the beast But that's fine with me!
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Old 05-21-2013, 12:37 AM   #24
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Thanks for the replies. I need to get it on a dyno and see where I'm at. Its all been pieced together from lurking on this forum.
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Old 05-21-2013, 04:39 AM   #25
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On a stock motor any thing more then 10 psi boost is asking for bad things to happen. With my little V3 with a 3.33 pulley I was at 11.5 psi and 618rwhp. I picked up a 3.47 pulley to get the boost down to 10 or so. As long as you are not running the car to hard you should be fine.
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Old 05-21-2013, 08:28 AM   #26
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I run the OD cog and stock 3.8 pulley up front on my Maggie. I also have the JRE blower cam, and Kooks headers no cats. Currently making 9.6 psi peak boost. I would like to reduce boost by about 1 psi as I am on the edge with my fuel system and I can't hook up the power on the street anyway...
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Old 05-22-2013, 04:50 PM   #27
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dont stress on how much boost you're making. If its too much for your taste get a larger blower pulley, but on the 11psi range and a stock motor (guessing) Youd better be running meth or a really good tune (yet i havent calculated dynamic compression ratio with your cam) Just make sure you have enough fuel pressure and stable WOT AFR and timing (no knock) and you should be good.

That cam you have will seem to make good top-end, which is a good combination with a PD blower since you already make awesome low-end.
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Old 05-22-2013, 08:40 PM   #28
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I'm have a 223/235 .610/.620 115. Ported heads, OD Cog and stock front pulley and I'm at 10.5 psi.
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Old 05-24-2013, 09:42 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kronix View Post
OD Cog drive is worth 3.5 lbs of boost. Stock 3.8 Pulley with the Maggie in 6lbs of boost. 3.6 Pulley adds another 3lbs or so of boost. I run 12-12.5 lbs of boost, with Meth as safety.

How much did the meth lower lower you intake air temps and does it keep them down after some WOT.
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Old 05-24-2013, 01:16 PM   #30
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I have twin Turbo so may be a bit different..I saw my IAT go from 200+ degrees all the way down to 130 degrees on 80+degree days. Haven't tipped over 130 since the install, even while hot lapping

sent from my galaxy s3. that would explain the errors.
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Old 05-24-2013, 04:12 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mchlgrrsn View Post
How much did the meth lower lower you intake air temps and does it keep them down after some WOT.
Methanol injection is a highly efficient chemical intercooler. By injecting methanol into the inlet of a supercharged car, intake air temperatures (IAT’s) can be reduced by more than 80% (depending on ambient air temperatures) and allow your tuner to run more timing and therefore making more HP. Secondly, Methanol burns at the equivalent of 110 octane fuel, effectively halting detonation that can be present with lower octane fuels and finally Methanol works to keep your engine cleaner, and helps remove carbon deposits that can form on piston tops, which can effective change engine compression and combustion properties.

Alky Control Systems come with a boost referenced, progressive meth controller which automatically releases increasing amounts of methanol as boost increases. This progression ensures smooth and even fuel delivery so that the transition or power remains smooth all the way up to redline.

And from what I've seen so far, it DOES keep my IATs down after several WOT runs. I have no regrets with this system.
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Old 05-24-2013, 04:31 PM   #32
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Great description and explanation. I am running an AEM injection system on mine which also has a boost progression switch. Turns on @ 3psi and full blast @ 12psi.

Also with the the Meth injection you mid water. Water actually pulls more heat of the block while the alcohol cools the air. If dialed in correctly it is a great combination.

All I did was bolt on a Meth injection kit, sprayed a 50/50 water and Meth mixture (washer solvent), no tuning done... and o gained 4mph in the 1/4 mile due to IAT staying down and my timing not being pulled. I will be getting some tuning done to really dial it in later in June. Hoping for a little more bump.

sent from my galaxy s3. that would explain the errors.
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Old 05-24-2013, 05:57 PM   #33
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Thanks for the responses. I need a plan for IAT. Normal driving I'm about 30 to 50 degrees over outside temp. Haven't seen track or WOT temps yet. My tuners plan (who does everything the expensive way lol) is to add a larger resivior in trunk and add either a larger heat exchanger or add a second exchanger. See what that does and then if needed add meth. I like the resivior idea because I can pack with ice at the track, not sure about putting more stuff in front of my radiator. Wondering if I should skip my tuners advice and go straight to meth because I am guessing it will still be needed after I do the other stuff. Any suggestions will be more than welcome. Thanks.
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Old 05-24-2013, 08:01 PM   #34
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My suggestion. Start with the Meth. 3 benefits of it are higher octane, cooling, and cleaning the engine.

A second or bigger reservoir only cools the air.

sent from my galaxy s3. that would explain the errors.
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