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Camaro V8 LS3 / L99 Engine, Exhaust, and Bolt-Ons Bolt-Ons | Intakes | Exhaust

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Old 05-22-2013, 09:33 PM   #1
Cornflakes'Camaro
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Seafoam treatment, Oil Change and Catch Can Installation

Wanting to double check with y'all that I am one the right track here with these procedures...

I plan on doing the seafoam treatment in my gas tank, oil, and intake manifold via this "how to"
http://www.ehow.com/way_5848602_sea-...treatment.html

Afterwards I will do my oil change and install my catch can to insure that I am preventing anymore oil from caking up on the valve train or throttle body.

Any objections or suggestions?
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Old 05-22-2013, 09:39 PM   #2
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You shouldn't need to do the brake bolster part, but otherwise your good.
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Old 05-22-2013, 09:45 PM   #3
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You shouldn't need to do the brake bolster part, but otherwise your good.

Ok then. How else would I get the oil off of the throttle body/intake and valve train though? I understand the combustion chamber will be cleaned from the foam in the gas, but as far as the top of the valves is what I am wondering...
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Old 05-22-2013, 09:55 PM   #4
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You can do the brake booster with out a problem. I've done it many times on all my cars, you do half of a bottle on the gas tank the other in the crankcase and I've done a half bottle on the brake booster hose.
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Old 05-22-2013, 10:04 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cornflakes'Camaro View Post
Ok then. How else would I get the oil off of the throttle body/intake and valve train though? I understand the combustion chamber will be cleaned from the foam in the gas, but as far as the top of the valves is what I am wondering...
Well then yes you'd want to do the brake booster. I was just saying if the car is relatively new it shouldn't need it - but if you're wanting to clean out as much as possible, then yes you'd want to do that too.

Sorry my earlier post wasn't clear.
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Old 05-22-2013, 10:12 PM   #6
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No you're fine dude. I've seen your posts and write ups, and I've seen you know what you're talking about. The car is a 2011 w/ 31XXX miles on it. I routinely use fuel system cleaner and fuel injector cleaner. Also, is there any difference in catch cans and how they are made? Or is it the general idea/engineering that matters most?
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Old 05-22-2013, 10:21 PM   #7
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Quote:
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You can do the brake booster with out a problem. I've done it many times on all my cars, you do half of a bottle on the gas tank the other in the crankcase and I've done a half bottle on the brake booster hose.
Awesome, Thank you for that.
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Old 05-23-2013, 12:07 AM   #8
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What about the clean side vacuum line? It's right there on the intake tube, is before the TB, and very easily accessible.
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Old 05-23-2013, 09:46 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cornflakes'Camaro View Post
No you're fine dude. I've seen your posts and write ups, and I've seen you know what you're talking about. The car is a 2011 w/ 31XXX miles on it. I routinely use fuel system cleaner and fuel injector cleaner. Also, is there any difference in catch cans and how they are made? Or is it the general idea/engineering that matters most?
The three top/best brands are RX, Elite Engineering, or Mike Norris. SC2150 has done a few great write ups on oil catch cans (I'll see if I can find them), explaining the difference between the three I mentioned and the cans you find on eBay for like $20.

And yea, if you have 31,xxx miles of not using a catch can I'd definitely recommend doing the full cleaning.

Quote:
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What about the clean side vacuum line? It's right there on the intake tube, is before the TB, and very easily accessible.
Possibly could work.
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Old 05-23-2013, 05:36 PM   #10
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Quote:
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The three top/best brands are RX, Elite Engineering, or Mike Norris. SC2150 has done a few great write ups on oil catch cans (I'll see if I can find them), explaining the difference between the three I mentioned and the cans you find on eBay for like $20.

And yea, if you have 31,xxx miles of not using a catch can I'd definitely recommend doing the full cleaning.


Possibly could work.

I will certainly be doing a full cleaning, no doubt about it. I have checked ebay and Elite Engineering cans are going for roughly $150 bucks...did you mean to put a "1" in front of that "20"?
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Old 05-23-2013, 06:02 PM   #11
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Quote:
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I will certainly be doing a full cleaning, no doubt about it. I have checked ebay and Elite Engineering cans are going for roughly $150 bucks...did you mean to put a "1" in front of that "20"?
Ieant $20 for a generic eBay one. Not an elite engineering one.
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Old 05-23-2013, 06:24 PM   #12
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Yea I figured that. Just wanted to double check. I am purchasing an Elite Engineering Catch Can right now...
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Old 05-24-2013, 10:54 AM   #13
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I have used Seafoam on many vehicles and for the Camaro I used the vacuum line that is behind the throttle body on left where the oil residue would be going into the manifold from the factory PCV setup and it worked fine, I did take the Throttle body of and clean it manually, after and the intake looked clean. I use 1/2 a can in tank and 1/2 in upper intake through the vacuum line i stated.

I am however against using it in the oil, I look at it this way if the oil is changed on a regular basis and using synthetic it should not be dirty inside, and if it is I don't want to break up the bad stuff and let it loose in the engine. But that's just me.
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Old 05-25-2013, 05:01 PM   #14
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Quote:
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I have used Seafoam on many vehicles and for the Camaro I used the vacuum line that is behind the throttle body on left where the oil residue would be going into the manifold from the factory PCV setup and it worked fine, I did take the Throttle body of and clean it manually, after and the intake looked clean. I use 1/2 a can in tank and 1/2 in upper intake through the vacuum line i stated.

I am however against using it in the oil, I look at it this way if the oil is changed on a regular basis and using synthetic it should not be dirty inside, and if it is I don't want to break up the bad stuff and let it loose in the engine. But that's just me.

interesting point. what if I use it in the oil and then change the oil shortly after? that should remove most particles the are broken loose, if there were any to start with, like you stated
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Old 05-25-2013, 06:18 PM   #15
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interesting point. what if I use it in the oil and then change the oil shortly after? that should remove most particles the are broken loose, if there were any to start with, like you stated
Seafoam states that you should change the oil within like 150 miles of putting it in anyway.
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Old 05-25-2013, 06:48 PM   #16
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Exactly stig. I'm not going to go 150 miles, maybe 15-20 but that's about it, since I am going to try to knock all this out in one day anyways.
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Old 05-25-2013, 06:50 PM   #17
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I also went to the track last night (for the first time) and had my clutch stick off the line. after doing research on this and seeing it was a common problem, I realized our cars share brake/clutch fluid reservoirs....that will also be changed asap. I don't like that engineering idea at all!
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Old 05-25-2013, 06:51 PM   #18
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Quote:
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I also went to the track last night (for the first time) and had my clutch stick off the line. after doing research on this and seeing it was a common problem, I realized our cars share brake/clutch fluid reservoirs....that will also be changed asap. I don't like that engineering idea at all!
Gen5 DIY offers the separate clutch fluid reservoir kit just as a FYI.
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Old 05-25-2013, 07:00 PM   #19
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ive seen that, another C5 guy put it up, but it's 60 bucks, and I've seen other ppl talk about kits that are 20. it's a really simple kit, I can't see it costing 60 dollars. but I will do more research on this topic very soon. Thanks Stig
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Old 12-06-2013, 11:02 AM   #20
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Thumbs up Seafoam and premium fuel table

Did the full seafoam treatment last week. My SS L99 only had about 6k before I put a catch can on, so I wanted to clean out some of the buildup from the first 6k. I figure the Apex catch can should prevent the need to do the 3rd step again in the future.

1. Put a can in with a full tank of Shell 93 which is what I normally use.
2. Put it in the oil and changed it 100 miles later with Mobil 1 EP oil and filter Used about 3/4 of a can SF based on can instructions for 8qts oil.
3. Sprayed deep creep in through pcv opening on left side of motor (L99). Its the same place my catch can outputs to. Used about 3/4 can and killed the engine for 30 min. White smoke like intended, but only for about a minute when driving. Only about 6k without the catch can, so not too dirty.

Tried doing it in the intake, but couldn't keep the engine running, so the pcv was the next best thing.

I noticed a loss in power afterwards, so I did the 5 & 20 fuse pull overnight and I was good again the next morning. I'm guessing that something in the process (maybe air/fuel ratio) set the ecm to the low end fuel setting which the fuse pull reset to premium.
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