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5th Gen Camaro SS LS LT General Discussions General 5th generation Camaro topics not covered by other subforums.

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Old 05-24-2013, 11:43 AM   #51
Witt
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Originally Posted by paul84043 View Post
Automotive paint in general went to crap when the EPA forced manufacturers to change their formulations due to emissions guidelines.
It's not just the Camaro, it's all vehicles, you just care more now.
I disagree. GM-Corvette, Ford, and VW...just a few I've detailed over the past couple years are much more durable than some other finishes. They vary greatly between manufacturers and in GM's case, model and years.
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Old 05-24-2013, 12:08 PM   #52
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I use Rejex on my car and everything just wipes off,bugs,road tar ,everything.
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Old 05-24-2013, 12:33 PM   #53
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paint sucks. gills take most of the chips and I have a nasty one on the hood. Terrible. The heck is opti coat and how do I get it done? and how much?
Opti-Coat is an after market ceramic clear coat very similar to what is applied at the factory. It chemically bonds with the factory paint and essentially becomes the car's new outer clear coat.

Because it's forms a permanent layer over the existing finish, it's important to do any paint correction prior to it's application. I just had it applied to my car by a professional detailer last week. It cost me $500 ($200 for the paint correction + $300 for the Opti-Coat). You can apply it yourself. Cost is around $70 for a 20 mL syringe.

I chose to have a professional detailer apply it because I wanted to make sure the paint was properly corrected before application. The guy told me he spent almost 7 hrs polishing my car before he applied the Opti-Coat. And this is on a car with less than a 1000 miles that I only hand wash using a foam gun and two bucket method. I suspect most of the paint problems were caused by the dealer prep.

Anyway, here are a couple photos of my car after the Opti-Coat application
Attached Images
  
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Old 05-24-2013, 12:38 PM   #54
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Yeah the paint on the Black Camaro's sucks but be careful of what you say or you will be in trouble with the powers that be on here I know I have done it before !
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Old 05-24-2013, 12:50 PM   #55
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Looooong story as to why, but my insurance covered the repaint - they shelled out about $8,000.
That's great too hear you had it covered. I was afraid it could be that expensive. Thanks for the reply.
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Old 05-24-2013, 12:54 PM   #56
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Don't forget the orange peel.
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Old 05-24-2013, 01:56 PM   #57
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So Stig, I've been asking on this forum for three years for opinions from people that repainted with no answers; is it better or is the problem really the shape of the car? Is yours better? Did they strip it or just sand the soft stuff and go over it? Typically a paint job is only as strong as it's weakest link.
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Old 05-24-2013, 02:32 PM   #58
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^^I'm interested in this too.
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Old 05-24-2013, 02:41 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hawk02 View Post
Opti-Coat is an after market ceramic clear coat very similar to what is applied at the factory. It chemically bonds with the factory paint and essentially becomes the car's new outer clear coat.

Because it's forms a permanent layer over the existing finish, it's important to do any paint correction prior to it's application. I just had it applied to my car by a professional detailer last week. It cost me $500 ($200 for the paint correction + $300 for the Opti-Coat). You can apply it yourself. Cost is around $70 for a 20 mL syringe.

I chose to have a professional detailer apply it because I wanted to make sure the paint was properly corrected before application. The guy told me he spent almost 7 hrs polishing my car before he applied the Opti-Coat. And this is on a car with less than a 1000 miles that I only hand wash using a foam gun and two bucket method. I suspect most of the paint problems were caused by the dealer prep.

Anyway, here are a couple photos of my car after the Opti-Coat application
What he said. OC is also stronger than our factory clear.
Beads water like a high end wax and makes washing easier.
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Old 05-24-2013, 07:34 PM   #60
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Originally Posted by TastyBake View Post
What type of clearcoat paint won't scratch from butcher paper?
From my understanding, water and non-water based (slightly older style) would have scratched from that paper.

Would a good coat of wax stop paper from scratching it?
I'm sorry but I have to comment on this.

It's bullshit that the contact the paper made should result in the scratches that were removed. It's also nonsense that you move right on to assuming the car wasn't waxed.

I speak from many years of experience and from the fact that I saw the scratches and you didn't; also I saw what caused the scratches and how hard the contact wasn't made. You didn't see that either.

It's damn near insulting to read your flat assumptions. You seem to think I'm a kid that has just got his first cool car but doesn't understand anything about it. I'm 41 and I've put more hours of bodywork into cars than you've had meals this year. I tend to feel that I can be expected to have a valid opinion on a scratch in my paint, particularly when I don't recall you being at the scene of the damage or the repair.
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Old 05-24-2013, 10:29 PM   #61
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Originally Posted by chef-beavis View Post
So Stig, I've been asking on this forum for three years for opinions from people that repainted with no answers; is it better or is the problem really the shape of the car? Is yours better? Did they strip it or just sand the soft stuff and go over it? Typically a paint job is only as strong as it's weakest link.
They sanded the whole car, shot three coats of the base color (phantom black metallic) wet sanding in between, and then five coats of clear again set sanding between.

My paint is gorgeous, and you literally can't even tell she's been repainted.

Start to finish it took about 4 months.
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Old 05-24-2013, 10:44 PM   #62
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Originally Posted by ChrisBlair View Post
I'm sorry but I have to comment on this.

It's bullshit that the contact the paper made should result in the scratches that were removed. It's also nonsense that you move right on to assuming the car wasn't waxed.

I speak from many years of experience and from the fact that I saw the scratches and you didn't; also I saw what caused the scratches and how hard the contact wasn't made. You didn't see that either.

It's damn near insulting to read your flat assumptions. You seem to think I'm a kid that has just got his first cool car but doesn't understand anything about it. I'm 41 and I've put more hours of bodywork into cars than you've had meals this year. I tend to feel that I can be expected to have a valid opinion on a scratch in my paint, particularly when I don't recall you being at the scene of the damage or the repair.
Wow dude I didn't get that from his post at all. maybe a pill might help.

he said he agreed that the paper would scratch it.
and then ASKED if a coat of high end wax would have helped..
he didn't attack you like you just did him..
beer man.. drink some.
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Old 05-24-2013, 11:11 PM   #63
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Originally Posted by The Stig View Post
They sanded the whole car, shot three coats of the base color (phantom black metallic) wet sanding in between, and then five coats of clear again set sanding between.

My paint is gorgeous, and you literally can't even tell she's been repainted.

Start to finish it took about 4 months.
So how has it been from a chipping standpoint since the repairs?
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Old 05-24-2013, 11:14 PM   #64
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So how has it been from a chipping standpoint since the repairs?
Haven't noticed any.
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Old 05-25-2013, 02:05 AM   #65
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Gotta buy the right color. Number one reason I picked orange.
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Old 05-25-2013, 02:39 AM   #66
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Here in Abut two and a half weeks I'm going to be moving from Cali to Mryland....I am terrified as to what the front of my car is going to look like. I plan ocovering the entire fron end in blue painters tape for the trip. Hopefully it'll help.
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Old 05-25-2013, 06:15 AM   #67
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^^^^^ That tape will look really cool. ^^^^^
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Old 05-25-2013, 06:21 AM   #68
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Wow dude I didn't get that from his post at all. maybe a pill might help.

he said he agreed that the paper would scratch it.
and then ASKED if a coat of high end wax would have helped..
he didn't attack you like you just did him..
beer man.. drink some.
Well dude maybe I have better reading comprehension than you dude. When somebody says ANY clear coat would be scracthed by that, it means two things: 1) after all I just said, I don't know what I'm talking about, and 2) the person knows what the scratches were like. Wrong on both counts. But he tells me anyway.

He did ask if a good wax would help. You don't understand that this suggests no wax or a bad wax was used. That is an assumption that I'm some new-to-cars-guy that needs tutoring on whyc ars have paint damage. Do I need to draw a picture for you? Do you like it when people assume you're an idiot?

And whether or not I "attacked" him or responded to something he said is not the point here- I wasn't talking to you. He decided to make those suggestions. maybe he needs to re-think how he expresses himself.
And maybe you need to have a glass of chillout instead of trying to save the world, one internet at a time. Dude.
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Old 05-25-2013, 06:24 AM   #69
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I love seeing anyone trying to defend or rationalize the paint lol. It's crap. The black for example is the same used on about 1/3 of the black cars produced in North America. Car is made at one place so it's the application. They build a great car but whoever was responsible for the paint setup should be rethinking their line of work.
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Old 05-25-2013, 06:36 AM   #70
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I'm glad some folks have no problems with their paint. But I ain't one of them. I've owned the same classic car since 1989, and even when I drove it in the new england winter, I never had to spend so many hours buffing out scratches- in 24 years of ownership I've had to buff out probably four scratches on that car. I did that with my Camaro before the first summer with it was done. Ugh
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Old 05-25-2013, 07:08 AM   #71
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I love seeing anyone trying to defend or rationalize the paint lol. It's crap. The black for example is the same used on about 1/3 of the black cars produced in North America. Car is made at one place so it's the application. They build a great car but whoever was responsible for the paint setup should be rethinking their line of work.

that's probably the problem. with the LS and LT, the quality of the paint is about what you'd expect from a 20-25k car. that they use the same quality of paint and application on the SS and ZL1 is kind of surprising to me. When your spending 30-50k on a car you should definitely get a better paint job than what GM is giving.

personally, I don't have any problem with mine at all. I have a couple rock chips (I've never owned a car that didn't get a couple), but that's about it. there are also some swirls compliments of the dealers detailing when I bought it, but those are very minor too. you can really only see them if you put your face right up to the car in direct sunlight.
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Old 05-25-2013, 08:46 AM   #72
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I purchased my car new back in 2011 and i choose the red jewel color..2 months after i got it or so, someone backed into the front left fender...took it to a paint and body shop...the owner of the shop said that he was going to try his best NOT to repaint the hood because of the way the paint runs and blends...his staff did a dang good job at it...one doesnt notice the difference at all
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Old 05-25-2013, 09:42 AM   #73
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I absolutely hate how fragile our paint is. I have rock chips all over my car from it being a daily driver. I had a little piece of asphalt stuck to the front bumper in front of the hadlight, and I *very lightly* wiped back and forth with a plush wash mit. When I got the asphalt off the paint, the back and forth of the wash mit scratched the hell out of the paint... I know how much pressure I was using, and there's truly no reason for it to be scratched like it was... Our paint is so fragile that I wouldn't be surprised if someone said they were able to stick their finger nail through the paint and get all the way to the plastic.
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Old 05-25-2013, 11:03 AM   #74
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The inferno orange on my 2010 was way better than it is on my 2012.
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Old 05-25-2013, 11:17 AM   #75
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Water based, two-stage, acrylic urethane is used industry wide now. All the car forums are complaining about the fragile, crappy paint.
You can blame our government and the EPA for our "green save the planet" paint systems.
This is the root cause of the problem. GM was forced to switch to a water based paint way back in the late 80's when the 3rd gen was made in the Van Nuys, CA plant because of CA state law. The paint was so bad it was literally delaminating from the sheet metal. GM switched back when they moved production to CAN for the 4th gen; which in my experience is probably some of the most durable (and hardest) paint I've ever owned on a GM vehicle. Fast forward several years and it seems all of their paint is water based.


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Originally Posted by duh954boy View Post
I thought I was the only one who was having issues with the Camaro paint. My quarter panels look like they were hit with buckshot a few times. I have only had the car a little over a month. I can't believe how crappy this paint is. I love my car but hate this paint.
.

I agree. I've conceded to the fact all OEM paint is super soft these days; but within a few days of owning my ZL1 the gills looked sand blasted. I've since had the Xpel clear bra installed to help minimize the problem.

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Originally Posted by rm2092 View Post
There are more threads then you can read on here in regards to GM's crappy paint and that's why I traded my 2011 2SS for a new 5.0 Mustang. I know some are going to say Fords paint is crap also but it's not, I have had my car a year now and all I can say is it looks the same as the day I bought it. I wish I could have said that about my SS.
As others have mentioned; it's not just a GM problem. My friend has a brand new Raptor and it has super soft paint and bad orange peel in some spots. We had a bitch session how bad the paint is on new vehicles.
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